i have everything from 700 to 2200.  the 1400 is generally considered the 'all around' router.

a clear decision point is 1/2-in shank bits...  if he wants/needs/should-use 1/2 bits for his projects, then the 1400.  this may come into play with the bookcase datos that you mention.  

hhh, made a great point about the disadvantage the OF 1010 has when it comes to not being compatible with 1/2" bits.  Additionally the overall fit and finish of the 1400 is a bit more top notch than the 1010.  It's a newer tool with better dust collection and a bit better ease of use and overall capabilities really make it worth the cash over the 1010.

I say it's worth the small "upcharge" now rather than the full, almost $500 price tag for the OF 1400 in addition to the 1010 down the road... no matter what projects and applications he's doing now.

Another option to consider is a 1010 and 2200 - this gives you all capabilities - small routing and large routing and all shank sizes.  I think that this is the perfect combination of routers.

Scot

Well, it was a job just getting him to look at the expense of the Festool, but when he saw the dust capability that seemed to be what moved him to looking at the green.  Sine he's a little old in the tooth like me, I would imagine that this may be hisone and only router purchase.

Suds, you did not mention your friend's experience level woodworking, especially with routers. This is a factor I discuss with everyone seeking my advice.

I bought my first electric router in 1946. At the time I bought my first Festools in 2006 I owned 8 routers of other brands, only one of which had a plunge base. As my first Festool router I selected the venerable OF1010, because I wanted that for drilling LR32 holes. Back then the OF1400 was not available and the OF2200 does not attach to the LR32 rail device.

Subsequently I have added many OF1010 to my tools, as well as 2 OF2200 and several MFK700. I only own one OF1400.

For me the OF1400 is Festools sincere effort to produce a very versatile router, which means there had to be design compromises. I am delighted to find that because the OF2200 is massive and runs so smoothly, for me it handles hand operated as easily as does an OF1010. For most of the tasks I perform using a hand-operated router the OF1010 has more than enough power.

Personally I make a whole lot of raised panel doors, for which I have been using router tables with conventional routers for decades. Consequently I own a comprehensive collection of 1/2" shank panel raising sets. Many of those go back to before the OF1400 was available in the USA. What I discovered after buying my OF1400 is that very few of my panel raising bits are small enough to fit on the OF1400. That router can be attached to the Festool LR32 "Holy Rail" device, but doing so is a PIA compared to using an OF1010.

Bottom line of my advice is to buy an OF1400 only if it will be your only router. I suggest the OF1010 as a first Festool router. BTW, my experience is that for most tasks the OF1010 collects dust and chips as well or better than does the OF1400. Perhaps this is because I have thousands of hours of experience with the OF1010 and probably less than 100 hours with the OF1400. Trust me, in the real world by following the advice contained in OF1010 supplemental manuals, you will be thrilled by the OF1010 dust collection. 

Suds, if there is any way that your buddy could use your OF1400 when that much power is needed, then I suggest he buy an OF1010 as his first router.

Inlay is not my personal bliss, but I have a lot of friends who really are into inlay. Some use other brands of light-weight standard routers, but more use the OF1010. Here in the USA there is a wide range of bit choices with 1/4" shanks. I do not remember ever seeing an inlay bit with a larger shank.

All the bits needed for rabbets and dadoes in plywood are available with 1/4" shanks and do not need more than 1000 watts of power.

Your friend should visit FOG and read the many posts about the two-pass approach to making dadoes which fit appropriately despite variations in plywood thickness. Trust me, att of that can be done very well with 1/4" shank bits and some practice.

Bottom line is that effectively, safely and efficiently using a router takes practice to gain confidence, and sharp bits!

I totally agree with Carroll

Also if he gets a 1010 you can play with it too 

Same with me, I agonized over this for a while but the 1010 came out on top. My first router in many years. If I need a 1/2 inch capacity with a lot of power occasionally, I will likely get something much cheaper than the 2200 since it will get very little use whereas the 1010 will get used a lot.

Sorry to say but I disagree. For inlay work visibility is paramount and the 700 is terrible for visibility. I use my 1400 for inlay work- I like the stability it gives me especially with the wide base. Others prefer the 1010 I don't think you can go wrong with either. I have a lot of 1/2" bits too so it's 1400 all the way for me.

I have bits that can easily be found with either a 1/4" or a 1/2" shank, and I generally lean toward the 1/2" shank when possible, because it is less likely to snap and fling the bit out of the tool while I am using it.  So for safety reasons, I typically prefer to use 1/2" shank bits in my handheld routers when reasonable.  No guard like the table has to keep the bit from flying out to who-knows-where.  I have had a bit (1/4" shank) snap on me once; thankfully, no harm done.

It wouldn't keep me from getting a 1010 (which is on my shopping list right now) and using 1/4" shank (or preferably 8mm when I can find them) bits, but if I had a 1400, I would definitely try to leverage that 1/2" collet.

How big a deal is the lack of the ratcheting bit install/removal?  I like it on mine but have no clue how big a deal it is on the 1010

One minor gripe I have with the 1010 is that I don't think the springs are strong enough.  I have to give it a little pull sometimes to get it to come back up.  It also isn't as smooth plunging as the 1400 I have used. 

I took it apart, cleaned the rods, added 3 in 1 oil and it is still pretty jerky... 

Ken,

Where does one send their router for a once-over?  I'm still under the 30 day, but the dealer is an hour away. 

I'm a little bummed because I wanted to use it specifically for an inlay this evening, but the plunge just isn't smooth enough for the precision I needed. 

==> So for safety reasons, I typically prefer to use 1/2" shank bits in my handheld routers when reasonable.  

Exactly!  I had a bit snap to me once with 1/4 and with a high-quality HSS spiral bit.  I've also had this happen with an 8mm solid carbide spiral bit. For those that have never had a bit snap, it's seriously scary.  I switched to 1/2 inch 15 years ago and never had a problem since.  the only time I use 8mm is when routing dovetails.  if you only work with 'softer' hard woods (janka about 1300 or less), then this may never be an issue.  but if you ever need to route ipe, bloodwood, etc then seriously consider 1/2.

@OP -- if your friend is really only going to do some edge finishing and some shallow dados, then the 1010 is a fine choice.  however, if he get's the 'bug' and moves from home improvement/DIY to furniture (how many of of us got started that way?), then the 1400 will grow with his needs.  the suggestion that you can just add a 2200 later needs to be considered against cost and experience -- the 2200 is my favorite router, but i would never recommend it for the inexperienced-- it's also seriously expensive when you add the accessory kit.