Hi everyone,

I have a few questions about this router and I am interested in hearing from other OF2200 owners or Festool.

1.  What is the actual amperage of this machine?  The manual says 15 Amps, the new brochure and some other postings have said 18 Amps.  If it is 18 Amps, it seems like it might tax the plug on the CT unit.  It is not a problem to plug it into a wall, I would just lose the auto dust collection.

2.  Does anyone use 1/4 inch collets on the machine?  I know that it can accept them and I know that 1/2 inch would be the way to go for most things.  This router is so smooth and balances so well, though, that I could see using it for inlay grooves and other lighter duty work.  Curious what others think on this -- I do not own any other Festool router, but do have another brand that I could use with smaller bits.  Since it is an extra $44.00 for the collet, I am wondering if it is really worth buying it (I know, you spend the amount of money on this thing and it is almost like saying does it really matter, but I am not one to buy something and then never use it).

3.  Do the less expensive limit stops work on the guide rail with this router and the router guide stop for stopped cuts or is the more expensive limit stop (item 485 827) a better way to go?  I know that one works in just the t-track and the other can work in the t-track and the u-channel.  I am just not sure if the t-track limit stop would work or work as well.

4.  Anyone use this with the OF-FH routing aid? How does it feel in the horizontal position -- the router is heavy and I would like to know if you are fighting the weight in this position (I realize that a smaller router might be a better option for this application, but I am trying to get a sense of real-world experiences).

Thanks in advance,

Scot

Hi Brice,

Thanks for your comments and feedback.  I did stop by a dealer yesterday and I was blown away at how good this thing felt in my hands...everything about it screams quality and the balance was amazing -- probably one of the best balanced hand power tools I have seen.  Everything was well thought out and made sense...before looking at it I was a bit skeptical of the price...after playing around with one a little, the price does not seem that out of whack.  I know that it is 18 pounds, but it did not feel that heavy to me. Granted it was only 10 minutes of playing with it and this might be different after swinging it around all day in the shop.  I envision something like this being a real workhorse in my shop.

Scot 

I seem to remember the guys running a pretty good sized roundover bit through some maple while the 2200 was passing through a meter that measure current draw.  If memory serves, it was pulling around 12 amps. If that's a concern, the variable speed on the router and the CT can help limit draw.

Thanks Tom and Shane!  So it seems like it would be OK to plug it into the CT as long as I was not pushing it overly hard.

 Yes, correct.

Bob

I deffinately do notice a difference in running 1/2" shank bits vs 1/4" shank. I find that the longer the bit the more noticable it is. What are you testing Nickao? v-grooves and 1/4" roundovers?

My 2 cents
Solid Carbide 1/4 bits will be fine in the 2200 because the material is more ridged and more stable, with less flex.  Solid carbid bits are also automatically in balance because of the manufacturing process.  1/4 shank bits with brazed carbide have steel shanks, which could flex under load.  Remember, you can not bend a solid carbide bit, it will simply snap off.  I use 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 solid carbide end mills in my 2200 all the time ( 2 flute, center cutting end mills are much cheaper than router bits) for wood, solid surface and Plexiglas.  they work great. 

About the Plexiglas template.  It will work great on the 2200, but needs to be used with the router in the upright position because of the weight of the router.  If you were going to mortise for a lock set, you would really need to stand the door on edge and use the router in the Plexiglas guide with the router upright.  I wouldn't count on the screws that clamp the sides of the Plexiglas template to the base of the themplate to support the weight of the router with the router in the horizontal position.  You could rig it up to be more reliable that way, but your best bet is to not use the 2200 and the Plexiglas template in the horizontal position, it's just too awkward and out of balance.  The weight of the 2200 work with you very well when routing flat and standard, and against you when routing horizontal.

Hope this helps
Jay

Scot, 

Yes I use 1/4" bits with my 2200, against the advice of our instructors.  But as a philosopher once said, "A pen and sword in accord."  I only use my 1/4 bits for finish trimming with templates or on finer edging work.  At class the concern with the Festool instructors was that with the weight of the router and it's ability to maintain rpm's that a quarter inch bit could be snapped easily and become ballistic. 

I own as many small bits as 1/2" so I bought the 1/4" collet right away.  My advice is to use them but remember as Nick said, carbide will snap, and you don't want that.

That post is right here.

Boy, what a bit!!!! 

8mm = 5/16", 10mm = 3/8"

Yes, the machine is a WoodRat. My DeWalt router has 1/2" and 1/4" collets. But Lee Valley here in North America sells collet adapters for 8mm bits. These cost only about $4.

You might be interested in some WoodRat literature I have which is not generally available. It is the tutorial from a series of classes taught for years in Surrey. If you will send me an email, I can return your letter with pdf attachments for the literature. It is gary.curtis.s60@gmail.com.  That is ...s60 and not 560.

Unless a person were an experienced vertical mill machinist, the WoodRat presents a daunting learning challenge.This book will help a lot.

Gary Curtis

So, Ron, I guess you consider yourself an experienced vertical mill machinist.   

I saw that bit when I visited Roger and the cutter would literally fill a coffee mug, with the shaft sticking out the top!  He did pre cut the edge with his TS75 to relieve the cut somewhat, but still, quite a job for a router.