If I missed it, sorry, but I searched the archives to see if there was a good discussion of this but didn't find one, so I'll ask:

Has anyone had problems with overshooting the depth of cut on the OF1400?  I just used the router to make some dadoes for the first time and all my cuts were about 1mm too deep.  I was using the router on the rails with the guide rail attachment as described in Rick's manual.  I set the depth as described there as well--plunging so the bit rests on the surface I am cutting, dialing in the desired depth, and I also tried just putting something of the depth I wanted to cut between the gauge and the turret, then locking the stop.  With either approach (dialing in a depth, or using something of the correct depth as a guide) the cut came out deeper than desired.  I notice that there is some play in the turret--if you press down on it there is some give, almost a springy feel. Presumably that has to be there to allow the turret to rotate.  I didn't measure it, but it feels like less than 1 mm.  Any thoughts on what's causing this and how to fix this?

--Rob

The turret has spring-operated ball detents, that most likely accounts for your issue. 

This is not a problem I have encountered with the OF1400, and I've been using one for a year, it did take me 6 months to get used to the depth setting but it is extremely accurate, and you can reset the depth to precisely match previous cuts quite easily, once you get used to it. Are you sure you need the power of the OF1400, it is quite a big router and I think the 1010 is probably easier to handle, especially on door edges etc.

Just did some more test cuts. The turret is contributing, since if I try to account for it by pushing down on it with something whose thickness matches the depth I want, and then locking the depth stop, it does improve my accuracy somewhat (about .2-.3mm), but I'm still getting cuts that are deep by about .3-.4 mm.  In answer to some questions:

Dave-in method #1 I used the depth gauge and index pointer to dial in a depth as described on p 10 of Rick's manual.  Yes, I'm using the outrigger as described in the manual to keep router elevated and parallel. I have been keeping the router on the rail (as close as I can to the guide rail attachment) rather than on the piece.  The piece I was routing is fairly narrow so the outrigger ended up riding on the MFT.  I didn't look at this while I was making those test cuts, but maybe there is some flex in the outrigger when it's that extended--I'll have to go down and relook.  I like Dave's approach of an auxilliary base to make up the gap between the router base and the piece and will try to fabricate one.  I have some 3/16" masonite which should work.  Dave, did you make a rough cutout for the base, screw it on, and then use a different router and flush trim bit to trim it to size?

I think you're probably right.  Yes, using a scrap of the same width makes a lot of sense, thanks.  But I like your auxiliary base approach even more and will give it a try.  I was thinking of making one that only sat under the outer portion of the base so that one could use it both on and off the piece.  I'll have to check the screw pattern to see if it's doable.

Yes, the turret is spring loaded.  At first I was a bit concerned about this and thought it might be a defect, but it is the way Festool designed the turret.  The "cure" is simple - make certain you have compressed the spring in the turret when setting the depth.  I usually use setup gauge bars, e.g. those offered by Whiteside.  If I want a 1/4 inch deep dado, first I set the router on the rail, if I am going to use it on the rail, then plunge to zero out the bit and lock the router in this position.  Then I insert, e.g. a 1/4 inch gauge bar under the depth adjustment rod and on topr of a screw in the turret, and make certain that I press down the rod, gauge bar and turret to take up any compression slop in the turret detent mechanism, and lock the depth rod.  Remove the gauge bar and I am ready to plunge and route.

Dave R. 

Rob,

Glad to be of some help!  When using my 1400 router with a Guide Rail, I set it up so the base of the router is running on top of one of the green Teflon strips, and adjust the outrigger foot to support the outboard side of the router relative to the workpiece.  I have not encountered any stability problems with that arrangement.  The only stability challenge I have encountered thus far has been when carving some damaged areas near the edge of a veneered door to prepare them to receive a veneer patch.  The narrow width of the base of the 1400 and its relatively tall motor case make it more top heavy and less stable than many smaller, fixed base routers.  A wider subbase would solve this, and the next time I encounter this application, I'll probably make a simple offset subbase to attach over the factory subbase.  There are a pair of 6mm screw holes in the 1400 base that are used to mount the router to Festool's hole drilling jig, and these can be used without having to remove anything.  A piece of 3/8" or 1/2" plastic or birch plywood should work quite well.

Dave R.

Rob,

While looking again at this thread I marveled at the quality of the photos you posted of your auxiliary base adapter.  How do you do that (camera settings, lighting, etc.)?  I have yet to purchase a digital camera, and want to make a good choice.

Dave R.

There is an item called "Support' for OF1400 #438-608. Cost $3.00. It described as "prevent router from tipping when use with guide rail. Acts as outrigger, offsets guide rail height.

Sounds like it is trying to solve the problem here???

Hi,


   Looks good. I have a bunch of stopped dados coming up this week. I think I need to make one of these. 

      daviddubbya,   What material did you use?

Seth

When you zero the bit against the work it's zeroed, no matter what you've added to the base plate.

Ned

Maybe I don't understand the question.  The foot on the side and the addition to the base plate serve the same purpose, just that the addition is more stable.  Both support the off-rail side of the router to keep it level with the the side on the rail.  As far as depth of cut is concerned, foot and addition are the same.

Ned