FESTOOL DISCUSSIONS > Festool Tools & Accessories

Question About How to Scribe Baseboards

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jylu97:
I like to work on small projects (I'm a novice, with tools) around the house and now that our wood floors are in, I'm going to work on the baseboard trim.  I'd like to scribe the baseboard and I was wondering what would be the best method to trim off the excess area.  I have a choice of LDF and pine (although the pine is significantly more expensive, so I'm considering sticking with LDF unless it proves too difficult or time-consuming to work with).  My question is should I cut the bottom of the LDF baseboards with the TS55 at a 45 degree angle and then sand or plane the remaining amount to the scribed line?  This would mean that I would have to cut every baseboard lengthwise and this would be time-consuming, but I would save time on sanding.  Or should I just sand or plane to the scribe line and skip the saw -- this would mean sanding/planing significant amounts of LDF?  Or should I buy the Quickscribe and use it with my Bosch laminate trimmer and scribe the bottom of the board after I've tacked it up an inch from the floor?  I'm bothered by the amount of dust this would produce (since the Quickscribe is only made for a select few trimmers) and I wonder if dealing with real wood would be better?   I've been pondering this for a few weeks that I will never get this started!

I have the MFT3, TS55, Trion -- I plan on renting a miter saw.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Liz

ryansmythe:
how much material do you think you are going to have to remove to get it tight to the floor?

jylu97:
I believe I will just have to remove 1/8 to 1/4" at the most.

quijas23:
I am a long time lurker but I thought I would respond. Im a finish carpenter who specializes in doing wainscot /high end trim.
When I am in this situation, I find that the baseboard will bend a little bit so the methode of using the quick scribe is not really required. but what I do is I lay the baseboard down and scribe it right in place, first finding the highest spot on the floor. I use a planer if it needs to be scribed a ton (yeah Ive ran into a few believe it or not on million dollar homes). I usually have a belt sander near by for fine adjusting.
Make sure that you dont get yourself into trouble when you start scribing into the next room where you have the floor at two levels (i.e. tile next to a lower wood floor).
sometimes if we have a bad bend in the floor, you can lay a peice of two by 4 on the top of the base (in place where you are going to nail it)  leaning down to the floor  and have sombody stand on it to get it to bend down to where you want it.
Hope this helps.

Tom Bainbridge:
in the uk skirting (base board) is almost always single piece, ive worked on single baseboard a foot high and 1-1/2 inch thick (finished sizes) but it doesnt change the method

quijas says that it is possible to bend skirting to fit the floor, hes right to an extent BUT only if its thin and narrow, so most of the time scribing is the only option

if you do manage to "bend" its a more difficult fit when scribing agaisnt architraves (door casing)



my method for mdf skirting is to scribe the line, then split the scribe line with a japanese pull saw (you put a back bevel on at the same time) if the fit aint perfect fine tune it with a block plane

most of the time with a pull saw i dont need to fine tune but thats because im practiced at it




if its timber (lumber) i use a jigsaw because rip cutting timber by hand is time consuming, you get more breakout with a jigsaw, so dont try to split the line. you cut close and then trim to line using a block plane




other carpenters use bandsaws for the rough cut then use sanders or angle grinders to waste to the line

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