Pages: [1] 2  All   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Second MFT, or new Table Saw  (Read 4913 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
mavrick1903

Offline Offline

Location: South Central Wisconsin, USA
Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 105



« on: April 25, 2012, 09:32 AM »

I'm in a quandry, and at the 11th hour so to speak. I'm planning on upgrading my 1.75hp Craftsman hybrid saw, to a 3hp Saw Stop TONIGHT. Unless I shouldnt? I'm a hobbyist, Furniture and small projects, home remodling (so an ocassional cabinet or built in) are what I do. I have a TS55, OF1400, Trion barrel grip, and Domino as far as cutting/joining tools go. I know a shop can go "table saw free". I'm interested in feedback from those that have taken that leap. How did it change your work, for the better? How much a mental hurdle was it to get over? I'd expect I'd need to consider investing in a second MFT/3 (I have one already) and possiabley a TS75 as well for deeper cuts? I tend towards Shaker/Mission/Contemporary styles so repititve cuts are important. This would likely bring the Paralell guides on the list as well.

Paralell guides $252 or $325 depending on which
MFT/3 Basic $505
TS75 $675 Or $1190.50 if I did the MFT/3 (full version) with the saw. about even money for the second protractor/800 rail

Total: $1500 (approx)

Saw Stop Pro/3hp
$2800 (ish)

Let's face it. I'm drinking the cool aid. That means I'll spend the coin for the tool that will last. So, while the difference is $1300 in cash, and yes, that DOES mean something. I'm also going to invest in doing it right for the long term.

PS: My Router table is a table saw extension, so I'd have that in the foot print of the saw, and enjoy the extra table space. Or, I'd need to come up with a stand alone.
Logged
Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.

duburban

Online Online

Location: Vermont
Member Since: Sep 2011
Posts: 375



« Reply #1 on: April 25, 2012, 09:42 AM »

saw stop for sure. i own all the festool things you spoke of and wouldn't trade my table saw for them. setting up a table saw is very fast, just set the fence. setting up all the festool pieces is a much different process and should be used when its going to give you results better than a table saw. i often use my ts 55 or 75 to get things perfectly straight then move to the table saw.

i'll admit i haven't given my parallel guides the attention they deserve.
Logged

ts75, ts55, ro150feq, ets150/3, trion, ct26, mft1080, estension wings, of1400, parallel guides, dts400, df500,
Alex

Offline Offline

Location: The Netherlands
Member Since: Nov 2008
Posts: 2796



« Reply #2 on: April 25, 2012, 09:43 AM »

I couldn't be without a table saw. It's possibilities and ease of work are unmatched.
Logged
RonWen
Retailer

Offline Offline

Location: One of the Thirteen Original Colonies of the United States of America.
Member Since: Feb 2009
Posts: 1515



WWW
« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2012, 11:06 AM »

I don't see that you've listed the type of projects you build.  Since you don't work for money there is a "work-around" using Festools for most any table saw requirement HOWEVER, I wouldn't enjoy or want to be without a table saw in my amateur workshop -- daily there are many things that are so much quicker to do using the table saw (even with just my Bosch 4100 contractor saw).  

As far as which table saw to buy, it's probably even more important that the occasional amateur woodworker have the safety of the SawStop over other great table saws -- I can't imagine a different recommendation being good advice but you are the only one that knows your skill and (safety) work habits.

EDIT:  Whoops, I re-read your post and I do see what projects you make & do -- same answer.
« Last Edit: April 25, 2012, 01:39 PM by RonWen » Logged

hanshamm

Offline Offline

Location: San Diego, CA
Member Since: Feb 2011
Posts: 87


« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2012, 01:34 PM »

I was in your shoes last november.  I decided to invest into a good bandsaw first and see if I could get around not using a table saw, under the advisement of my mentor.  I have to say it was easier than I expected.  I do ripping with track saw or the bandsaw depending on the application.  Edge clean up on the jointer or a hand plane.  The down fall of not having a table saw so far is the lack of a dado set.  Nothing really beats the speed of cutting grooves, dados and rabbets on a table saw but you can easily get around it with a router table. 

Logged
mavrick1903

Offline Offline

Location: South Central Wisconsin, USA
Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 105



« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2012, 02:04 PM »

I do have a good band saw already, so that's not an issue. I'm also in a small shop, 15x24, with bench, tools etc. Within that space is a table motorcycle lift, and in season, two motorcycles that either get worked around, or (weather permitting) pushed outside to work. Foot print is not hugely different between MFT/3 and a router table, or TS/RT combined footprint.
Logged
hanshamm

Offline Offline

Location: San Diego, CA
Member Since: Feb 2011
Posts: 87


« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2012, 02:27 PM »

You can do most things with the bandsaw.

I prefer a stand alone router table for the table size and mobility.  

Logged
Wood_Junkie

Offline Offline

Location: Madison, Wisconsin - USA
Member Since: Dec 2009
Posts: 1303



« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2012, 02:33 PM »

Clearly what you need is a CMS with the TS module insert!!

For $2800 you could get to Europe, purchase one and ship it back.  ;-)   Heck, and maybe take your spouse/SO on a trip overseas, too.
This gives you the best of all worlds…


However, a Sawstop is a full-featured, full size table saw...  Ain’t no replacement for displacement.
Logged
mavrick1903

Offline Offline

Location: South Central Wisconsin, USA
Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 105



« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2012, 02:48 PM »

Rob, which do you use? I know you're a green monster as much as anyone, are you also a Table Saw owner?
Logged
Zacharytanner

Offline Offline

Location: Upstate New York...Adirondack Mountains
Member Since: Nov 2009
Posts: 202



« Reply #9 on: April 25, 2012, 02:52 PM »

Sawstop...You will be beyond PLEASED...I just bought the same saw and it is GREAT.


Frank
Logged

Festool Kapex KS 120EB w/ 4 Blades
Domino DF500 Set
Domino DS Systainer 4,5,6,8,10
TS55 w/ FS1400 and FS2700 Rails
MFT/3 with Accessories
CT33E
D36 Tradesman
Trion PS300 Jigsaw
RTS 400 EQ Orbital Sander
RO 125
125  Abrasive Systainer with , 60,80,100,120,220 Grit Festool paper
2 Systainer Carts
Festool T18+3 Kit
CXS Kit with Centrotec Wood Bits
ETS 150/3
150 Abrasive Systainer
Festool Toolie
RO 90
RO 90 Abrasive Systainer
OF 1010 Router

Frank
Wood_Junkie

Offline Offline

Location: Madison, Wisconsin - USA
Member Since: Dec 2009
Posts: 1303



« Reply #10 on: April 25, 2012, 03:08 PM »

Rob, which do you use? I know you're a green monster as much as anyone, are you also a Table Saw owner?

I have a table saw, but not a Saw Stop.  I've researched it a lot, as the safety aspect is a big deal to me (in IT, fingers = typing = my livelihood).
However, I have a Ridgid TS3650 which I've been very happy with for the utility/precision/value.  I have a ProMax router extension on it, which has worked out great in terms of shop space.
And I continue to *try* to practice safe habits... so far so good.

I am a green monster!  *rawr*!!

« Last Edit: April 25, 2012, 03:10 PM by Wood_Junkie » Logged
bruegf

Offline Offline

Location: Michigan
Member Since: Mar 2007
Posts: 729

Michigan


« Reply #11 on: April 25, 2012, 04:02 PM »

I have a sawstop and an MFT, and I use both.   Sawstop for rips, mft for crosscuts.  You won't be disappointed in the sawstop.

Fred
Logged

Fred
Kev

Offline Offline

Location: Australia
Member Since: Nov 2011
Posts: 2426



« Reply #12 on: April 25, 2012, 07:42 PM »

With a similar dilemma as you, I'm considering a bandsaw first. Biggest issue for me is space ... I'll be investing in CMS when I have the specific needs as that will give me limited table saw, router table and shaping (CARVEX+CMS).

The complication hits when you think about a movable table saw v's a decent bandsaw that would be more of a fixed workshop item (plus serious DC requirements that I probably wouldn't have space for).

He fact tat you ae space is a big decision influencer - I'd probably lean towards a decent table saw for accurate ripping. But the boat aspect ... I'd imagine a good bandsaw would be mandatory too!

Tough decision  Eek!

Can't visualize making a boat with nothing but MFT's , but my imagination could be a bit limited.
Logged
jacko9

Offline Offline

Location: USA
Member Since: Apr 2010
Posts: 665


« Reply #13 on: April 25, 2012, 09:01 PM »

When I got started in woodworking 40 years ago, I asked a friend that owned a successful cabinet shop what tool I should buy first and his advise was a good table saw.  I never regretted that advise and that is what I would recommend today.
Logged
Steve R

Offline Offline

Location: Twin Cities, MN, USA
Member Since: Oct 2010
Posts: 915



« Reply #14 on: April 25, 2012, 09:57 PM »

I couldn't be without a table saw. It's possibilities and ease of work are unmatched.

Table saw...hmmm thinking...  nope don't need one...  but I work on location...

Cheers,
Steve
Logged

"A Festool is a tool, Marian; much better than any other tool: an axe, a shovel or anything. A Festool is still only as good or as bad as the man using it. Remember that.” ~ Ode to Shane (the movie)
Kevin Stricker

Offline Offline

Location: UNITED STATES (US)
Member Since: Feb 2009
Posts: 437


« Reply #15 on: April 25, 2012, 10:28 PM »

A second MFT and TS75 will not allow you to make repetitive thin rips in a timely manner.  Nor will it allow you to build drawers with a single setup.  You will not be able to effectively make large rabbits, tenons, grooves for door panels or drawer bottoms.  You cannot raise panels with a TS75, or crosscut with repeatable accuracy over 42" with an MFT.  It is also worth noting that none of the above can be done with a bandsaw with the exception of making tenons, which a bandsaw is in some ways a superior tool.

People say that having a bandsaw reduces footprint, but the necessity of having a large router table seems to offset this advantage.  While I can see that if you primarily make furniture that going with the bandsaw over the table saw could make sense, it does not from a time savings perspective.  Having to joint cuts to be glue ready, having to adjust for drift, and just changing blades all add to the time.  

For cabinet building and trim carpentry it is hard to argue with owning a good table saw.  Put a router table in the extension table and you get two tools with the footprint of one.
Logged
jtwood

Offline Offline

Location: Joshua Tree, CA
Member Since: Apr 2011
Posts: 88


« Reply #16 on: April 25, 2012, 10:46 PM »

I got into Festool originally with a TS75 trying to avoid replacing my Craftsman table saw.  I, too, am an amateur furniture maker, and found that the 75 just won't replace a table saw for my needs.  I have all of the Festools you listed plus several sanders, and I love them all.  The 75 is great for sheet goods, but the precision and repeatability and versatiltiy of the table saw is too important for me to give up.  I ended up with a Powermatic 2200, and I love it.  I'm sure you'll be just as happy with the Saw Stop.

If I had it to do over, I would get the TS55 instead of the 75 to go with my table saw.  I don't need the extra depth the 75 provides, and I wouldn't miss the extra weight.

Enjoy your decision.

Steve
Logged
Jesse Cloud

Offline Offline

Location: Placitas, NM
Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 1449


Festooling at the end of a dirt road in New Mexico


« Reply #17 on: April 25, 2012, 11:13 PM »

If you have room for a tablesaw, then its definitely worth having.  The SawStop upgrade is definitely worth it.  I have seen fingers saved.

Having said that, I use my Festools almost every day, but I only turn on the tablesaw maybe once every couple of weeks.  A big part of that is that I learned woodworking on a tablesaw and I have dozens of tablesaw jigs.  And sometimes, its just easier.  The other reason is that my MFT almost always has a project going on it and its easier to use the tablesaw rather than clean off the MFT. Embarassed

I can see how I could get by without my tablesaw, but as long as I have the space, I don't think I will want to.
Logged
TurnagainD

Offline Offline

Location: Girdwood, AK USA
Member Since: Jan 2011
Posts: 53


« Reply #18 on: April 26, 2012, 03:02 AM »

I agree that the table saw is still an indispensable part of a shop.  Have you considered the Saw Stop Contractor saw rather than the 3hp cabinet saw?  I am considering that saw beacuse it at least has the option of being portable and should have plenty of power for all but a commercial cabinet shop.
Logged
Michael1960

Offline Offline

Location: Australia
Member Since: Jan 2012
Posts: 40


« Reply #19 on: April 26, 2012, 04:56 AM »

I purchased a 3hp Cabinet SawStop before the Festool bug...
I'd still go with the SawStop with a router on the side.
A bandsaw is very useful but my table saw earns it's share of space in a small shop....
Logged
Alex

Offline Offline

Location: The Netherlands
Member Since: Nov 2008
Posts: 2796



« Reply #20 on: April 26, 2012, 07:33 AM »

I couldn't be without a table saw. It's possibilities and ease of work are unmatched.

Table saw...hmmm thinking...  nope don't need one...  but I work on location...


I work wherever it's needed, if I need a TS, I just bring it with me.
Logged
ScotF

Offline Offline

Location: Southern Orange County, CA, USA
Member Since: Jul 2009
Posts: 1351


WWW
« Reply #21 on: April 27, 2012, 10:58 AM »

I am in the good Bandsaw camp first and then Tablesaw...I think that if you have a TS55/TS75 and MFT/parallel guides that you can accomplish pretty much anything combined with a good bandsaw and router.  I do most dados and rabbets with the router instead of the tablesaw and I get surprisingly accurate rips with the bandsaw as well as a host of other joinery.  I have been depating with myself for months on whether I should sell my cabinet saw and reclaim space or keep it for those times where it is a better tool for the job...I have even been making several projects relying only on Festools and my Bandsaw to test it out and so far things have worked out well.  The guides can be finicky to set up, but they are very accurate.  It is not as fast going this route, so it becomes a speed vs. space debate as accuracy is the same in my mind.

Scot
Logged
hanshamm

Offline Offline

Location: San Diego, CA
Member Since: Feb 2011
Posts: 87


« Reply #22 on: April 27, 2012, 12:21 PM »

+1000 Scott

bandsaw rips are parallel to 0.001".  Not sure if it is my blades or the bandsaw but I have zero drift on my PM1800 with timberwolf blades.
Logged
mavrick1903

Offline Offline

Location: South Central Wisconsin, USA
Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 105



« Reply #23 on: April 27, 2012, 01:44 PM »

What about tapered legs? My pref has been using the Table Saw for this (yes, I've used the bandsaw as well, like the TableSaw better.)
Logged
sancho57

Offline Offline

Location: So Cal USA
Member Since: Jan 2011
Posts: 1066



« Reply #24 on: April 27, 2012, 02:54 PM »

All depends on your needs. I have the TS 55 gparalell guides  2 MFTs etc. I also own a tilt abor table saw (delta contractors). I have used the table saw only a handful of times since I started using festools.

I only use it for  cutting thin strips and face frames.  I think you could get away with buy a bench top saw/ portable contractors.
Logged

Shhhhhh Dont tell the wife butttttt I bought another…….
Ken Nagrod
Restricted

Offline Offline

Location: New Jersey
Member Since: Jul 2010
Posts: 3438



« Reply #25 on: April 27, 2012, 03:52 PM »

Just something to think about, SawStop will be introducing a REAL portable table saw including their safety technology.  It will have a rolling stand and not be overly heavy.  Expected release time frame is the end of this year.  Learned about this from a very reliable source a couple of months ago.  Of course it's possible for things to change between now and the end of the year, but this is the info I was given.  Price will be around $700.  Don't ask for more info as I don't have any.
Logged
JSands

Offline Offline

Location: usa
Member Since: Oct 2010
Posts: 194


« Reply #26 on: April 27, 2012, 11:44 PM »

If you don't work on location, this takes some of the sizzle out of the Festool saw system.....  its mobility is a huge part of its appeal.

OTOH, if your shop is small, and space is VERY important, and you need to use the space for other tasks when not sawing, the Festool saw system gains much appeal again...

But if you break down sheet goods, so you will end up with a TS55/75 and rails,  the incremental cost would only be the MFT.    That makes the cost comparison MFT vs. cabinet saw.    Festool MFT addition much less costly vs. a cabinet saw.   Now a big price differential

I think some have mastered the small work space on this list......band saw for long rips (but not on sheet goods), and a good looong jointer, or jointer hand plane.    The issue is, do you use sheet goods often?   If not, there is other low cost systems that can break them down...

A lot comes down to volume....if you do low volume of work, and time is not a huge issue, than the Festool system can accomplish everything you want with the benefits of hanging it on the wall when not using it...

However, I think most people would agree, if you have the space and the money, its hard to beat a solid cabinet saw for many tasks... it doesn't mean you can't find other ways to make the same cuts...   
Logged
Alan m

Offline Offline

Location: Ireland
Member Since: Aug 2010
Posts: 2995



« Reply #27 on: April 28, 2012, 06:12 PM »

i hava big table saw with sliding carage  and bearly use it. wish i didnt buy it (takes up a lot of space) .i always go to my festools first or the band saw
Logged

now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
wish list
of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools


"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
barnowl

Offline Offline

Location: Massachusetts
Member Since: Feb 2008
Posts: 115



« Reply #28 on: April 29, 2012, 07:59 AM »

I agree that the table saw is still an indispensable part of a shop.  Have you considered the Saw Stop Contractor saw rather than the 3hp cabinet saw?  I am considering that saw beacuse it at least has the option of being portable and should have plenty of power for all but a commercial cabinet shop.


+1

For a multitude of reasons, portability the prime reason, I went with the contractors saw, which is powerful enough for my uses.

I bought the saw without a fence, as I wanted to use my existing Incra fence, which, in my opinion, is the finest fence on the market.



However, if you go that route, face the fence with UHMW, so that the fence cannot accidently touch the blade.

Logged

best wishes,

Steve

TS-55, assorted rails, Domino, Kapex, OF1400, ETS 125 EQ, RO 125 FEQ, RO 90, PSB 300 EQ, CT-22, CT-26
ScotF

Offline Offline

Location: Southern Orange County, CA, USA
Member Since: Jul 2009
Posts: 1351


WWW
« Reply #29 on: April 30, 2012, 12:46 AM »

What kind of hose is your DC hose?  Looks like a 120MM Festool Hose!

Scot
Logged
Pages: [1] 2  All   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to: