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Author Topic: Shop-Made Boom Arms  (Read 11122 times)
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Mark Enomoto

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« on: July 15, 2007, 05:08 AM »

For non-boomers like myself, I rigged up some bungie cord screwed into a rafter that held the hose and power cord off of the work surface. Worked great and kept my vac mobile. Its no boom arm but between having the hose and power cord drag on the ground and getting a full blown boom arm, this solution improved the operator experience 100% IMHO. Have to try the boom arm next time I'm at the Woodcraft in Hawaii.
« Last Edit: July 17, 2007, 11:34 PM by Matthew Schenker » Logged
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« Reply #1 on: July 15, 2007, 09:11 AM »

For non-boomers like myself, I rigged up some bungie cord screwed into a rafter that held the hose and power cord off of the work surface. Worked great and kept my vac mobile. Its no boom arm but between having the hose and power cord drag on the ground and getting a full blown boom arm, this solution improved the operator experience 100% IMHO. Have to try the boom arm next time I'm at the Woodcraft in Hawaii.

You know what I'm going to say next...we need photos!

Also, I wonder whether it might be interesting to let your post be the start of a new topic.  Maybe call it something like "shop-made boom arms"?  We already have a discussion about "shop-made sysports."  Yours would be equivalent to that.  Just an offer.  It's up to you.

Matthew
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SRSemenza
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« Reply #2 on: July 16, 2007, 01:11 AM »



Also, I wonder whether it might be interesting to let your post be the start of a new topic.  Maybe call it something like "shop-made boom arms"?  We already have a discussion about "shop-made sysports."  Yours would be equivalent to that.  Just an offer.  It's up to you.

Matthew

      Great idea Matthew! Perhaps this should be expanded to include CT hose and pipe set ups , boom or no-boom? When I get my set up done I will post it.

Seth Semenza
« Last Edit: July 17, 2007, 11:35 PM by Matthew Schenker » Logged

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« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2007, 11:35 PM »

OK, this is now a new topic!  Use this space to discuss your ideas for shop-made boom arms.
Matthew 
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« Reply #4 on: July 18, 2007, 12:42 AM »

Hi,

    This is the set up I just finished putting together.  The gray pipe is 2" conduit. I used conduit because of the smooth curves and bell end connections for a good air flow. It does not swing, but the location  allows the hose to reach both my work bench and cutting table for all the Festool use. I have only tested it out. But will soon use it for a job. I suspect that it wil be changed again, but I will have to do some real work to find out for sure. If anyone has questions or wants details  I will be happy to reply.

Seth Semenza


UPDATE:    I have been using this for close to a year now. And it has worked out very well.  I have not yet found anything that I would change.   The fact that it does not swing does not seem to matter in my set up. Just tha fact that it comes from above keps it from dragging or coiling in the way / under foot.   When Iset this up I did spend some experimental time figuring out the right height and distance from the cutting table  (  http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=3318.0  )  .  For sanding, to make the hose truly free swinging and to adjust the length just right , I put it through a bungie cord hanging from  the ceiling in addition. I think that I would probably do this even if the arm did swing.
























« Last Edit: March 23, 2013, 02:51 PM by SRSemenza » Logged

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Eli

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« Reply #5 on: July 18, 2007, 02:11 AM »

The gray conduit is a slip fit directly to the extractor?
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Corwin

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« Reply #6 on: July 18, 2007, 02:31 AM »

Have you tried running copper wire inside & outside the pipe to complete the antistatic connection?  Might not be too hard to install on your setup -- I'm not sure this would work, but I would try placing a Festool AS fitting at either end of your pipe, run the wires and connect to the AS fittings.  Just a thought.

Very nice setup!  Looks like this will work well for you. 

Corwin
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SRSemenza
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« Reply #7 on: July 18, 2007, 10:25 AM »

The gray conduit is a slip fit directly to the extractor?

Hi,

      No, but it is only about a 1/16" (1.5mm)  too big.  I clamped it to a workbench, and reduced the OD of the conduit with a sanding drum chucked in a handheld drill. I drew a line around the conduit with a marker in order to get it nice and even. It worked well and didn't take long to do either. Any method you come up with (rasping, perhaps a stationary belt sander)  to reduce the OD a little that will give a nice even length of reduction and wall thickness will work. This was also done on the other end so that I could use a regular hose to hose connector joining the hose and conduit.  After the reduction in OD everything is now a slip fit.

Seth
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Eli

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« Reply #8 on: July 18, 2007, 10:34 AM »

Nice, very nice. Has that clean install I think we're always going for.
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« Reply #9 on: July 18, 2007, 11:27 AM »

Seth, what's the light green sleeve on the hose near the tool end?  I'm guessing it keeps the hose ribs from catching.  Am I right?  What material is the sleeve?

Ned
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« Reply #10 on: July 18, 2007, 12:06 PM »

Seth, what's the light green sleeve on the hose near the tool end?  I'm guessing it keeps the hose ribs from catching.  Am I right?  What material is the sleeve?

Ned


Hi,

    The sleeve material is techflex. Originally suggested to me by programmergeek . It is an expanable , flexable nylon mesh tube. Available in any length and several diameter ranges.  It does cover the ribs and hold the cord to the hose. The ribs don't catch at all on the rail deflector, or most table edges. It does tend to snag  (almost worse) on saw kerfs along the edge of my cut table.  I am not 100% sure I am going to like it for my set up. It seems to be somwhat situational.  I tried it with a sander and it seemed to be real good for that. Allowing the hose and cord to slide back and forth over the edge of my bench with no catching. How good it works will depend on what it is skiding across.    A 15' length of 1 1/4" diameter is just right for the D27 x 11.5' standard hose and cord if you want to do the entire length.  You need a little more than the actaul length because it shorten as it is expnaded in diameter.

Seth
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bijeshj

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« Reply #11 on: July 20, 2007, 11:38 PM »

Hi,
This is a Boom arm that I put together using 1" PVC pipes. while it is not as good a the real thing it has worked for me.
It is attached to my Ridgid shop vac.

OK, let me see if I can attach the images!!

Bijesh


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Mike Chrest

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« Reply #12 on: July 21, 2007, 10:16 PM »

bijeshj ,
  Thats a good looking boom! How is it attached to the vac? Does it pivot?
Mike
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denverdad

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« Reply #13 on: July 21, 2007, 10:28 PM »

bijeshj,

That does look sweet!

What are the brackets holding the hose to the PVC? Did you use the threaded PVC fittings in case of a clog? What was your total cost on the arm?

I just got my first Festools a week ago, and so far a bungy cord has been working great. I used zipties about every foot along the hose to attach the cord and that made a huge difference as well in controlling the cord and hose. I think I got both ideas off this forum.

Randy
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bijeshj

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« Reply #14 on: July 22, 2007, 12:16 AM »

Thanks Guys.

I already had a 1" PVC pipe. Used threaded couplers to join the pieces together to make it easy to dismantle for storage if I need to. It pivots on one of the bottom threaded joint. Got the brackets from the electrical section in HD, makes it easy to remove the hose. It is attached to the vac by a couple of brackets (not drilled to the container)

It was not very expensive, Approx. cost $20.00.

Regards
Bijesh
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Matthew Schenker

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« Reply #15 on: July 22, 2007, 07:20 AM »

Everyone,
This is a great thread.

I have a question.  How far do you think one could run a dust hose and still be effective?  My shop is pretty small, and it would be great if I could set a CT22 or CT33 in an adjacent room to my shop, then run a dust-collection hose, with a boom-arm, into the shop area.  All told, it would run perhaps 20'.  Does anyone see an issue with this?

Matthew
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Michael Kellough

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« Reply #16 on: July 22, 2007, 12:50 PM »

Everyone,
This is a great thread.

I have a question.  How far do you think one could run a dust hose and still be effective?  My shop is pretty small, and it would be great if I could set a CT22 or CT33 in an adjacent room to my shop, then run a dust-collection hose, with a boom-arm, into the shop area.  All told, it would run perhaps 20'.  Does anyone see an issue with this?

Matthew

Resistance to the air flow is cumulative and bends in the hose also greatly increase resistance so it might be better to not use the boom except in some rudimentary form at the tool end of the line. The bigger the hose the better. You also want to use the biggest hose at the vac end of the run. To save money the big hose could be non-AS and you could bypass it with a wire to maintain the AS characteristic of the hose at the tool.

This should easily be sufficient for sanding and probably sawing but probably not good enough for routing. I sometimes do this with my Fein shop vac (which hangs from the ceiling so isn't too portable) via that inexpensive orange hose sold by several of the WW suppliers and it works.
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« Reply #17 on: July 22, 2007, 09:24 PM »

Everyone,
This is a great thread.

I have a question.  How far do you think one could run a dust hose and still be effective?  My shop is pretty small, and it would be great if I could set a CT22 or CT33 in an adjacent room to my shop, then run a dust-collection hose, with a boom-arm, into the shop area.  All told, it would run perhaps 20'.  Does anyone see an issue with this?

Matthew

Hi, Matthew

       The set up I posted above has 10' of 2" ID pipe with the three curves. And then the D27 x 11.5' hose. The 2" and curves are all smooth inside which helps compared to a ridged hose. This goes up and over as shown in the pics. Suction is plenty strong, I can't tell the difference from using just the hose. I also had a test set up of this that was two feet of 2 1/2" hose (not good hose either) then six feet of 2"pipe (pieced together) then another five feet of 2 1/2" hose, totaling 13 feet   then the D27 x 11.5' hose. Same basic arrangement. This also  had the same suction as far as I could tell when using it. I suspect that a CT would draw just fine through a 20 ' pipe with a hose added on at the other end. PVC is pretty cheap, if you really want to know buy 20' of 2" , rig it up  temporarily and see if it works.  I think if you go much bigger than 2" ID you might start running into the problem of not pulling enough air volume through it.

Seth

     
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« Reply #18 on: July 22, 2007, 09:41 PM »

If I remember correctly, the one of the dryer engineers at work told me every 90 degree bend in a dryer hose results in a 20% reduction in air flow.  I assume the same is true of a vacuum as opposed to a blower but I'll try to remember to ask at work tomorrow.

Fred
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Dave Ronyak

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« Reply #19 on: July 27, 2007, 10:11 PM »

Everyone,
This is a great thread.

I have a question.  How far do you think one could run a dust hose and still be effective?  My shop is pretty small, and it would be great if I could set a CT22 or CT33 in an adjacent room to my shop, then run a dust-collection hose, with a boom-arm, into the shop area.  All told, it would run perhaps 20'.  Does anyone see an issue with this?

Matthew

Matthew,

I vacuumed out 3-4 inches of mineral wool insulation from the attic of my house using a Fein Turbo II , its standard 16 ft x 35mm? hose to the end of which I coupled another 12 ft hose and various tool ends.  Although the end of the run nearest the vacuum was an 8 ft drop, the rest was horizontal across the tops of the ceiling joists.  That setup worked fine, and the Fein never whimpered.  The density of the mineral wool and the large amount of shot [little balls that detach from the ends of the mineral wool fibers] is much greater than any wood.  The Festool CT-22 draws more air than the Fein.  Your extended hose setup should work OK.  The planer or router are likely to give it the most severe test.  Sanders will certainly not be a problem.

Dave R.   
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« Reply #20 on: July 27, 2007, 11:11 PM »

If I remember correctly, the one of the dryer engineers at work told me every 90 degree bend in a dryer hose results in a 20% reduction in air flow.  I assume the same is true of a vacuum as opposed to a blower but I'll try to remember to ask at work tomorrow.

Fred

  Hi,

        While I am sure this is accurate for the dryer pipe. I think there are quite a few variables involved- pipe diameter, material, and tightness of the bend, etc. The three 90 curves in my set up would result in a total of about 50% reduction of flow at 20% each. And there is no way it has been reduced that much. I am sure there is some reduction but it is not enough for me to even perceive when using it. Not knocking your info, I just got thinking about it in relation to my pipe run. 

Seth
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« Reply #21 on: March 22, 2008, 05:47 PM »


 Seth pointed myself to this thread which I missed to see and
 suggested to add it a reference to the description of my version of
 the home made boom arm.

 Please look at  http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=1719.0
 in which appear a couple of other pics


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Steve Jones

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« Reply #22 on: March 22, 2008, 09:11 PM »

Sorry about the quick pictures, but this is my poor mans CT with boom (Actually a very elderly shop-vac and some pvc pipe on a janitors cart)
I had the shop vac (lo, these many years), the cart was from (gasp!) Harbor Freight ($50.00) PVC from Home depot, and switching (auto on and off with delay just like the real thing courtesy of a switch box from Woodcraft (About $35.00 I think)

Total investment under $100 - it works, and I get a bonus couple of shelves and a trash bag.



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« Reply #23 on: March 23, 2008, 02:06 PM »

Nice project, Steve.  Have you experienced any static buildup?  (Wood dust particles standing up and straight out radially from the outside walls of the hoses and tubing.)  I noticed this when I substituted a length of Craftsman 2 1/2 inch hose in my Festool / Dust Deputy setup.

Dave R.
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Dan Rush

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« Reply #24 on: March 23, 2008, 02:25 PM »

I'm also curious about static.  I'm running about 12 ' of PVC in my shop attic to create a built - in boom.  I'm thinking that I may want to wrap it in copper wire before enclosing the space and insulating.   Any thoughts?

Dan
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Steve Jones

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« Reply #25 on: March 23, 2008, 04:11 PM »

Dan and Dave - no problems with static other than the boom tends to attract your hair when you lean close to it - but in my case that problem is decreasing over time Grin

And as for the chance of my shop vac going WHOOF! sometime - it's old, i'd pay money to see that! (Possibly the price of a Festool Vac)

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« Reply #26 on: March 23, 2008, 04:15 PM »

I just hate all the extras saw dust that sticks to the hoses and PVC. Do you get that? Worst case run a grounding wire with a vac grounding kit sold by many places, Grizzly sell  one if you think you need it.

I used PVC in the past and I switched to metal piping. I don't think it will go boom. There are many articles that show PVC up to 3" or 4" in a home shop is safe.

After going to the festool anti-static I will not go back to the other hoses though.
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Steve Jones

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« Reply #27 on: March 23, 2008, 04:22 PM »

Nick, I'll probably end up with a Festool vac sooner or later (Financially speaking it's looking later and later) but with 3 shop vacs and a big dust control system in the shop it's impossible to justify it just yet.

Oddly enough I don't get any dust sticking to the pipes, maybe everything in the shop is dust free enough (dust control has been the first priority while setting up this new shop a year ago) maybe there is simply not enough free floating dust to accumulate.
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« Reply #28 on: March 23, 2008, 04:26 PM »

Steve I get it. With six kids and two x-wives and the economy crunch I am hurting financially. I sold 47 old tools on ebay in the last week(some are still listed) and made 5250.00. I used every penny and then some to purchase all the latest Festools. I am glad I purchased good tools to begin with and on some I actually broke even or even made a profit!

Your set up is sweet! I see no reason to run get a Festool at all!

nickao
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« Reply #29 on: March 23, 2008, 04:29 PM »

I am very pleased to have switched from a 16 gal. Craftsman shop vacuum to Festool CT 22 E.  I used to get static shocks frequently when using that Craftsman vac with its plastic floor sweep attachments, even somewhat during Ohio's humid summers.  No more!!  I also note that my Fein Turbo II with Fein's stock hose and floor sweep attachments (metal wand, plastic fittings) doesn't build up nearly as much static as the Craftsman.  I notice slight static effects on the Fein hose and fittings during the winter, but it is not a problem to me like the Craftsman was.

Dave R.
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