Hello I have just been fitting 25  internal doors in a very posh house where the home owner is very much a clean freak the house is absolutely spotless. I borrowed a of1010 from a friend to use with the trend hinge jig as I thought the added dust collection would be just what I was looking for but then found out that FESTOOL do not make the correct size guide bush (16mm) for the hinge jig which I thought is a bit strange anyhow I ended up using an old bosch router for the job which made a mess but hay ho job done.
My question is there a way around this I was thinking about buying a small FESTOOL router but this has now put me off I also have a staircase jig and would prob have the same prob.
Is this a only centrotec bits fit the FESTOOL chuck only kinda situation I just find it weird cos FESTOOL don't make these jigs and I feel they surely must be missing out on sales from this it just does not make sense to me.

I replaced my of2000 last year  which died eventually after doing worktops for over 20 years week in week out I prob could have got it fixed but I went for a of2200 which I love now I have got used to the extra weight.  I just love the accuracy of these routers and thought the of 1010 would compliment my of2200 but now I'm having second thoughts.

Why would they not offer the guide bushes I just don't get it.

Does anyone have a work around

Thanks in advance

I'm not sure I do not have any experiences with the porter cable guide bushes will they fit the FESTOOL base plates

469625

Not easy to get here in the UK I bet, those portercable bushes.

I'm surprised those trend jigs need a 16mm bush thought it would be 17mm which u can get for the 1010. I hate trend stuff myself I think its over priced rubbish. I prefer scoring the doors with a knife then either rout freehand or use an mdf jig. I fit lots of doors each year and we tried the long metal trend jig years ago but no one liked it .

I've just bought the new Makita little trimmer router ideal for hinges.

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Think I will pass on the brass bushes don't like the sound of them.

I know what you mean about trend some stuff they just buy in and rebrand it and it's not very good  but they do make some pretty good stuff I use  aswell.  The rota tip replaceable router cutters for worktops are amazing they just go on and on and on then you flip the blade and you are good to go again.  I also like the workttop jigs and the offset scriber.

They are easily available so I normally buy trend router cutters as I can get them easily.

I use the Trend hinge jig with the OF1010 and the standard 17mm guide bush.  The Trend jig does requires a 16mm bush.   The simple way around this is to use a 1mm bigger 'setting spacer' when setting up the jig.   The jig comes with a 4mm spacer which you use with the relevant hinge to set-up the jig.  If you use a 5mm spacer (I use a 5mm twist drill) then that compensates for the over-sized bush.

This works perfectly and means you don't have to bolt on cumbersome adaptor plates to the OF1010.  The Trend hinge jig (the one-piece anyway) is the finest hinge jig I've ever seen or used.  And for that matter so are their worktop jigs.

Troll

I spent a couple of years doing nothing but 2nd fix price work and always made my own jig out of a rip of MDF. Use a cutter with a top bearing (guided trimer) and you do away with having to work out guide bush distances, you just draw round the hinge and cut it out, the bearing follows exactly. Just spend a bit of time making an accurate jig and you're there.

If you have a funny five minutes and wreck the jig its only MDF not an expensive trend jig.

I'm sure than home-made jigs are every bit as capable of cutting perfect hinge housings.  However, surely the key element in production / price-work is the speed of operation.  The Trend jig, once set-up; a few minutes process, eliminates any further measuring or marking-out and is capable of cutting all the housing on the door or the jamb in one operation.  All the hinge housing are perfectly aligned with each other.  You can fix the jig and cut the housing in a door or jamb in a minute or two (if you're not in a hurry).  And importantly on site is that you can achieve perfect results even in low-light levels as there's no free-hand work involved.  As to break-out by the router bit, if you follow standard routing use then break out can only occur on the exit, and you can eliminate this by using a sharp router bit and secondly I find a small cut in with the router on what will be the exit before cutting the housing in the normal way solves this problem.  Of course break-out applies to all routing not just Trend.

When cutting out using a single hinge jig you still have to mark-out all the housing on the door and jamb; a time consuming operation and prone to measuring error.

I've used many jigs in my time but in my experience the Trend jigs (hinge, worktop and lock) are the best available and extremely robust.  Their worktop jigs are brilliantly easy to set-up and thanks to a fully adjustable width stop have the ability to cut joints on any width of worktop not just standard widths. Obviously, everyone has their own experience and preference.

Troll

 As to break-out by the router bit, if you follow standard routing use then break out can only occur on the exit, and you can eliminate this by using a sharp router bit and secondly I find a small cut in with the router on what will be the exit before cutting the housing in the normal way solves this problem.  Of course break-out applies to all routing not just Trend.

 



Troll

It wasn't break out I was talking about , its the top and bottom of the hinge , I and everyone I've ever met with one of these type jigs has the same result , a slight tearing of the cross grain cut ( top and bottom of hinge) not the door edge.

I prefer as I say to score with a knife or if using a knocked up mdf jig and a flush cutter this seems to do the trick as well.

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Mr Troll

Nope it was a brand new cutter.

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That would do it footstool didn't realise you could get a 13mm cutter.
Having not used the jig for a few years I have been using it all week and must say I love it there are a few problems like the slight tear ou t on the exit cut but I could just use a thin sacrificial piece on the edge of the door to avoid this.

The house I have been working at has very twisted casings and the arcgitarves are too close to the edge on some doors too use the jig 100% correctly but it marks the casing and just needs finishing with a chisel or freehand router but the heights are always spot on with the jig and it makes the job so easy not much thinking needed.

The worktop jig is excellent and if you buy the offset scriber for the jig it makes very out of square joints very easy to do you just place the jig on you mark without the bushes  and bobs your uncle.

Most of my trend cutters  were once my dads and are 10/15 years old some older  i just get them sharpend so can't really comment about the quality of new trend cutters but the rota tip replaceable cutters for the worktop jig has saved me a absolute fortune it is almost impossible to  blunt them I almost feel like I am changing the cutter for the sake of it after doing 10/15 joints they are still sharp. They are only good for chipboard worktops  thou not solid wood.

the US adaptor plate then one of these http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/product/GB_US_160/4/203/guide_bush_usa_16mm_hinge_jig_.html

John.....

That would do it footstool didn't realise you could get a 13mm cutter.
Having not used the jig for a few years I have been using it all week and must say I love it there are a few problems like the slight tear ou t on the exit cut but I could just use a thin sacrificial piece on the edge of the door to avoid this.

The house I have been working at has very twisted casings and the arcgitarves are too close to the edge on some doors too use the jig 100% correctly but it marks the casing and just needs finishing with a chisel or freehand router but the heights are always spot on with the jig and it makes the job so easy not much thinking needed.

The worktop jig is excellent and if you buy the offset scriber for the jig it makes very out of square joints very easy to do you just place the jig on you mark without the bushes  and bobs your uncle.

Most of my trend cutters  were once my dads and are 10/15 years old some older  i just get them sharpend so can't really comment about the quality of new trend cutters but the rota tip replaceable cutters for the worktop jig has saved me a absolute fortune it is almost impossible to  blunt them I almost feel like I am changing the cutter for the sake of it after doing 10/15 joints they are still sharp. They are only good for chipboard worktops  thou not solid wood.

trend do a set of 3mm stops to replace the standard stops to allow you to use the jig on linings with arc's fitted 

Thanks I did not know about the thinner spacers but some of the archswere fitted almost flush to the casing so they still would of worked correctly.

I was plunging in the said corner to start the cut  and still getting tear out on the odd door they are made from tulipwood thou which is pretty soft I will try some masking tape tomorrow that will prob do the job. It does not really matter on this job  because all the old hinge and other holes in the arch  all have to be filled and sanded by the guy who is hand painting them all I suppose you could just chisel the edge on the exit cut before routering.

I love this site you are all a wealth of knowledge and inspiration.

Mr Bopperontbay

As I said in my previous posts -

 I use the Trend hinge jig with the OF1010 and the standard 17mm guide bush.  The Trend jig does requires a 16mm bush.   The simple way around this is to use a 1mm bigger 'setting spacer' when setting up the jig.   The jig comes with a 4mm spacer which you use with the relevant hinge to set-up the jig.  If you use a 5mm spacer (I use a 5mm twist drill) then that compensates for the over-sized bush.

You don't need to purchase any special size bits.  Also the Trend jig requires an extra long shank so you may not find it possible to buy other different size router bits that suit.

As to break-out by the router bit, if you follow standard routing use then break out can only occur on the exit, and you can eliminate this by using a sharp router bit and secondly I find a small cut in with the router on what will be the exit before cutting the housing in the normal way solves this problem.

I used this set-up for years with excellent results

Troll