Author Topic: Which router  (Read 3318 times)

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Offline ishmerc

  • Posts: 83
Re: Which router
« Reply #30 on: October 05, 2017, 02:02 PM »
The 1400 use to include 3 collet ,8mm,1/4 and 1/2 .Now it only come with 8mm and 1/4 .I don't understand why they didn't take out the 8mm instead of the 1/2 .Most of the router bits in the US is 1/4 or 1/2 .

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Offline jimmy986

  • Posts: 62
Re: Which router
« Reply #31 on: October 05, 2017, 02:05 PM »
So I wouldn't be able to use my 1/2" bits with the 1400?

Offline VW MICK

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Re: Which router
« Reply #32 on: October 05, 2017, 02:24 PM »
@jimmy986

The Of1400 is nice I've never had it stall or slow up

I got mine and had to buy the 1/4 collet (which cost £40 and has a different size spanner )

But having said that it is a really smooth powerful router

I wouldn't be without it. And will probably get another

Mick

Offline Peter Parfitt

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Re: Which router
« Reply #33 on: October 05, 2017, 04:09 PM »
@jimmy986

The Of1400 is nice I've never had it stall or slow up

I got mine and had to buy the 1/4 collet (which cost £40 and has a different size spanner )

But having said that it is a really smooth powerful router

I wouldn't be without it. And will probably get another

Mick

Hi Mick,

The Festool collets (for the OF1400 and OF2200) all have the same size spanner - did you buy a third party collet?

Peter

Offline ishmerc

  • Posts: 83
Re: Which router
« Reply #34 on: October 05, 2017, 04:11 PM »
So I wouldn't be able to use my 1/2" bits with the 1400?
You've to buy the 1/2 in order to use your 1/2 bits .

Offline Bob D.

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Re: Which router
« Reply #35 on: October 05, 2017, 04:43 PM »
I bought my OF1400 this year and it came with all three collets. Maybe it was old stock don't know but I doubt I will run into many 8mm bits here in the states. Still, I think the router should come with all three wherever it's sold. When I have bought any of my other routers they all came with 1/4 and 1/2 inch collets except for those that are 1/4 inch only.
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Offline Holmz

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Re: Which router
« Reply #36 on: October 05, 2017, 05:15 PM »
The 1400 use to include 3 collet ,8mm,1/4 and 1/2 .Now it only come with 8mm and 1/4 .I don't understand why they didn't take out the 8mm instead of the 1/2 .Most of the router bits in the US is 1/4 or 1/2 .

Festool is made in Europe.
The more common small size in Europe is 8-mm over 6-mm or 1/4".

They know everyone with want 1/2" . (which would not fill me with glee)

Offline Don Ware

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Re: Which router
« Reply #37 on: October 05, 2017, 06:04 PM »
In the USA the 1400 comes will 3 collets 1/4", 8mm, and 1/2"
Don Ware
Anderson Plywood Sales
Culver City, California

Offline jimmy986

  • Posts: 62
Re: Which router
« Reply #38 on: October 05, 2017, 06:18 PM »
In the USA the 1400 comes will 3 collets 1/4", 8mm, and 1/2"

Thanks. That would save $50 which makes a purchase more palatable.

Offline McNally Family

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Re: Which router
« Reply #39 on: October 05, 2017, 06:31 PM »
The 1400 use to include 3 collet ,8mm,1/4 and 1/2 .Now it only come with 8mm and 1/4 .I don't understand why they didn't take out the 8mm instead of the 1/2 .Most of the router bits in the US is 1/4 or 1/2 .


@Shane Holland

If you visit Toolnut, and look for the Festool 1400 router, it indicates that all three collets are included:


 Includes:

(1) 1/4" Collet
(1) 8 mm Collet
(1) 1/2" Collet
« Last Edit: October 05, 2017, 06:37 PM by McNally Family »
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Online Cheese

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Re: Which router
« Reply #40 on: October 05, 2017, 06:59 PM »
The Festool catalog lists all 3 collets.

The Festool website lists only 1/4” and 8mm.

Offline ear3

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Re: Which router
« Reply #41 on: October 06, 2017, 11:24 AM »
Example #532 on why the FestoolUSA website is so awesome.

The Festool catalog lists all 3 collets.

The Festool website lists only 1/4” and 8mm.
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Online Cochese

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Re: Which router
« Reply #42 on: October 06, 2017, 11:36 AM »
In the USA the 1400 comes will 3 collets 1/4", 8mm, and 1/2"

Thanks. That would save $50 which makes a purchase more palatable.

You need to ask yourself what you're going to get out of the purchase to make it an upgrade over what you have. In many ways, it was a push scenario for me. I got a little bit better ergonomics in exchange for some things like poorer visibility. I think knowing what I do now, I wouldn't have sold my 28084 and spent my money on upgrading something else in my shop.

Offline hrrb

  • Posts: 184
Re: Which router
« Reply #43 on: October 06, 2017, 12:00 PM »
....
Hi Mick,

The Festool collets (for the OF1400 and OF2200) all have the same size spanner - did you buy a third party collet?

Peter

Hmmm...have they changed the collets?

I own an OF 1400 from 2008 where the 8 and 12 mm collets need a 22mm spanner and the 1/2" collet needs a 24mm spanner!

Kind regards Henrik

Offline BBuild

  • Posts: 74
Re: Which router
« Reply #44 on: October 06, 2017, 12:10 PM »
Good question.  You definitely want 1/2" shank capability, which would argue for the 1400 over the 1010.  The question is whether you wanted to expand your capabilities even further by looking into an even heavier duty model (3.25-3.5HP) from another manufacturer for a dedicated under the table router (like a Triton or a PC), and then use the Festool purchase to get something like the 1010, which I think is, pound for pound, a more versatile machine than the 1400 (through the edging plate for example, which gives you horizontal routing capabilities -- edging plate also works on 1400, but is more cumbersome).

I don't use my 1400 all that frequently anymore after I got the 2200, which covers the heavy duty tasks (that I'm not doing on my table mounted Triton), and for lighter duty stuff I prefer to reach for the 1010.  It's really only when I need 1/2" capability and I'm working on a surface where the footprint of the 2200 is too large.  The 1400 is still a great router, though.

Note that template routing is probably better on the 1400 as well, due to the difficulty of centering the ring on the 1010 (unless you buy an aftermarket template insert, like the one from Leigh).

Another feature where the 1400 excels over the 1010 is the edge guide.  The 1010 edge guide has fixed rods, whereas the one on the 1400 are detachable.  This means you can swap in, for example, your own set of longer rods if you ever have the need to rout parallel to the edge over long distances.

This is news to me but I have the older 1000 model. Three of them ...and the 8mm rods are removable.

Same here but maybe they changed the design since I bought the edge guide for my 1010 as my rods are removable also.
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Offline Peter Parfitt

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Re: Which router
« Reply #45 on: October 06, 2017, 12:42 PM »
....
Hi Mick,

The Festool collets (for the OF1400 and OF2200) all have the same size spanner - did you buy a third party collet?

Peter

Hmmm...have they changed the collets?

I own an OF 1400 from 2008 where the 8 and 12 mm collets need a 22mm spanner and the 1/2" collet needs a 24mm spanner!

Kind regards Henrik

Hi Henrik,

I had to go to the workshop and check...

All of my collets for the OF1400 and OF2200 are interchangeable and they all take a 24 mm spanner. I have 1/4", 8mm, 12 mm and 1/2" collets. The OF2200 is about 6 years old and the OF1400 is about 4 years old.

Peter

Offline jimmy986

  • Posts: 62
Re: Which router
« Reply #46 on: October 06, 2017, 12:55 PM »
In the USA the 1400 comes will 3 collets 1/4", 8mm, and 1/2"

Thanks. That would save $50 which makes a purchase more palatable.

You need to ask yourself what you're going to get out of the purchase to make it an upgrade over what you have. In many ways, it was a push scenario for me. I got a little bit better ergonomics in exchange for some things like poorer visibility. I think knowing what I do now, I wouldn't have sold my 28084 and spent my money on upgrading something else in my shop.

In terms of what I THINK I will get: better ergonomics, better dust collection(my craftsman is awful), more consistent power, one base instead of plunge and fixed that take up extra space, use with my tracks.... anything I'm missing?

Online Cochese

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Re: Which router
« Reply #47 on: October 06, 2017, 01:39 PM »
In the USA the 1400 comes will 3 collets 1/4", 8mm, and 1/2"

Thanks. That would save $50 which makes a purchase more palatable.

You need to ask yourself what you're going to get out of the purchase to make it an upgrade over what you have. In many ways, it was a push scenario for me. I got a little bit better ergonomics in exchange for some things like poorer visibility. I think knowing what I do now, I wouldn't have sold my 28084 and spent my money on upgrading something else in my shop.

In terms of what I THINK I will get: better ergonomics, better dust collection(my craftsman is awful), more consistent power, one base instead of plunge and fixed that take up extra space, use with my tracks.... anything I'm missing?

The Craftsmans I had were actually pretty good with dust collection. I didn't see much improvement there, and still have to buy another chute for use with larger bits. Power was never an issue for me either. I enjoyed having more than one base because I could mount the fixed and have an extra table router setup. With the D-handle I had ergonomics are a push. The depth lock on the handle is nice, as is the dust ports and power supply lining up. It just wasn't as big of an upgrade as the price suggested.

Offline altiplano

  • Posts: 15
Re: Which router
« Reply #48 on: October 06, 2017, 06:56 PM »
I have had a Makita 2.25 hp router for years I use it in and out of a table... it's really quite good.

But I always wanted a Festool router, primarily for the superior dust collection. I thought the 1400 would be the best way to go... in the end though I decided on a 1010...

I did this for a number of reasons:
-it still works with my Leigh D4R jig which uses 8mm bits
-it works with my bosch ofa 32 kit
-it's small and light weight with adequate power for most needs
-I really like the edging plate attachment - super easy with the light router
-my Makita can still work with 1/2 bits out of the table if needed
-my Makita now primarily resides in my router table though

You can probably buy the OF1010 and a Makita RF1101 for the same price as an OF1400.

Then you'll have a full time under the table router, a sexy, lightweight, easy to handle Festool router, and all the capability... up to 1/2"

Offline jimmy986

  • Posts: 62
Re: Which router
« Reply #49 on: October 06, 2017, 07:54 PM »
I have had a Makita 2.25 hp router for years I use it in and out of a table... it's really quite good.

But I always wanted a Festool router, primarily for the superior dust collection. I thought the 1400 would be the best way to go... in the end though I decided on a 1010...

I did this for a number of reasons:
-it still works with my Leigh D4R jig which uses 8mm bits
-it works with my bosch ofa 32 kit
-it's small and light weight with adequate power for most needs
-I really like the edging plate attachment - super easy with the light router
-my Makita can still work with 1/2 bits out of the table if needed
-my Makita now primarily resides in my router table though

You can probably buy the OF1010 and a Makita RF1101 for the same price as an OF1400.

Then you'll have a full time under the table router, a sexy, lightweight, easy to handle Festool router, and all the capability... up to 1/2"

I keep going back and forth on whether to get the 1400 or 1010. Most of my work with a router has been edge profiles, bowtie inlays, and dovetail templates. I have done SOME dados/grooves but not a ton. The 1010's smaller profile seems like it would be nice for edges, bowties, and the dovetails. I could keep the craftsman for my small router table for now and pull it out for dados when I would probably want the 1/2" shank. Have you found any issues with the smaller diameter bits for the type of work I do?

Offline ScotF

  • Posts: 2318
Re: Which router
« Reply #50 on: October 07, 2017, 01:17 AM »
I have had a Makita 2.25 hp router for years I use it in and out of a table... it's really quite good.

But I always wanted a Festool router, primarily for the superior dust collection. I thought the 1400 would be the best way to go... in the end though I decided on a 1010...

I did this for a number of reasons:
-it still works with my Leigh D4R jig which uses 8mm bits
-it works with my bosch ofa 32 kit
-it's small and light weight with adequate power for most needs
-I really like the edging plate attachment - super easy with the light router
-my Makita can still work with 1/2 bits out of the table if needed
-my Makita now primarily resides in my router table though

You can probably buy the OF1010 and a Makita RF1101 for the same price as an OF1400.

Then you'll have a full time under the table router, a sexy, lightweight, easy to handle Festool router, and all the capability... up to 1/2"

I keep going back and forth on whether to get the 1400 or 1010. Most of my work with a router has been edge profiles, bowtie inlays, and dovetail templates. I have done SOME dados/grooves but not a ton. The 1010's smaller profile seems like it would be nice for edges, bowties, and the dovetails. I could keep the craftsman for my small router table for now and pull it out for dados when I would probably want the 1/2" shank. Have you found any issues with the smaller diameter bits for the type of work I do?

Smaller bits work fine and 8mm are really, really good if available to you. In NA, you can get them from Lee Valley. 1/4 inch bits have never given me trouble and for handheld use I think that they work just fine. Grooves and dados are not a problem - you just might have to take a few passes and slow your feed rate. DC on the 1010 is very good and it is light weight and easy to maneuver. The 1400 is also good, heavier, but it takes all the bits so more versatility there. The fence is better, DC is more finicky with an extra part and ou have to buy the guide stop if you want to use it on a rail (which is great for dado cuts and grooves).

Offline Peter Parfitt

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Re: Which router
« Reply #51 on: October 07, 2017, 01:54 AM »

Smaller bits work fine and 8mm are really, really good if available to you. In NA, you can get them from Lee Valley. 1/4 inch bits have never given me trouble and for handheld use I think that they work just fine. Grooves and dados are not a problem - you just might have to take a few passes and slow your feed rate. DC on the 1010 is very good and it is light weight and easy to maneuver. The 1400 is also good, heavier, but it takes all the bits so more versatility there. The fence is better, DC is more finicky with an extra part and ou have to buy the guide stop if you want to use it on a rail (which is great for dado cuts and grooves).

I agree 100% with @ScotF - the OF1010 sounds like the one you need. I found the OF1400 just a dash too heavy for a lot (all day usage) of dovetail work.

Peter

Offline jimmy986

  • Posts: 62
Re: Which router
« Reply #52 on: October 07, 2017, 11:42 AM »
One question I didn't think about is whether or not the of 1010 or 1400 would work with the rockler dovetail jig. Does anyone have experience with this?
http://www.rockler.com/rockler-s-complete-dovetail-jig

Online Cheese

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Re: Which router
« Reply #53 on: October 07, 2017, 12:21 PM »
I keep going back and forth on whether to get the 1400 or 1010. Most of my work with a router has been edge profiles, bowtie inlays, and dovetail templates. I have done SOME dados/grooves but not a ton. The 1010's smaller profile seems like it would be nice for edges, bowties, and the dovetails. I could keep the craftsman for my small router table for now and pull it out for dados when I would probably want the 1/2" shank. Have you found any issues with the smaller diameter bits for the type of work I do?

I have both the 1010 & 1400. I tend to use the 1010 probably 80-85% of the time because its so small and maneuverable. I use 1/4" shank Whiteside router bits and they are more than up to the task. Edge profiles, dados and through slots in 3/4" Jatoba are all easily accomplished with the 1010. I've also routed key slots for clamps in 80/20 aluminum tubes without an issue.

Here are some pics:
Dado for cabinet back in 3/4" maple ply
Slots in Jatoba for HVAC vents
Clamp slot in 80/20
« Last Edit: October 07, 2017, 12:23 PM by Cheese »

Offline ScotF

  • Posts: 2318
Re: Which router
« Reply #54 on: October 07, 2017, 01:40 PM »
I keep going back and forth on whether to get the 1400 or 1010. Most of my work with a router has been edge profiles, bowtie inlays, and dovetail templates. I have done SOME dados/grooves but not a ton. The 1010's smaller profile seems like it would be nice for edges, bowties, and the dovetails. I could keep the craftsman for my small router table for now and pull it out for dados when I would probably want the 1/2" shank. Have you found any issues with the smaller diameter bits for the type of work I do?

I have both the 1010 & 1400. I tend to use the 1010 probably 80-85% of the time because its so small and maneuverable. I use 1/4" shank Whiteside router bits and they are more than up to the task. Edge profiles, dados and through slots in 3/4" Jatoba are all easily accomplished with the 1010. I've also routed key slots for clamps in 80/20 aluminum tubes without an issue.

Here are some pics:
Dado for cabinet back in 3/4" maple ply
Slots in Jatoba for HVAC vents
Clamp slot in 80/20

those HVAC vents are really, really nice...awesome work!!

Online Cheese

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Re: Which router
« Reply #55 on: October 07, 2017, 02:05 PM »
Thanks 🙏 🙏 Scott.

And thank you 🙏 MFS.

Online Cheese

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Re: Which router
« Reply #56 on: October 07, 2017, 02:55 PM »
One more photo I ran across while cleaning out my phone today.

Again, I used the 1010 with a 1/2" diameter bit on a 1/4" diameter shank to relieve the 3/4" oak drawer front for cast aluminum pulls. 

Offline mclaeys

  • Posts: 15
Re: Which router
« Reply #57 on: October 10, 2017, 04:20 PM »
for those that can't decide between the 1010 and 1400 and wrestle with not wanting buying more tool then they need, or  spending a bit more and go for the generalist model. I personally ended up with the 1010 and found the main production issue that you have to accept is not the size of the bits available, but based on the work needed to do, the length of the 1/8" bits. in boring holes, slots and and templating work you can only work on 3/4 material.

I've never seen in this forum this fact. perhaps it's widely understood what the limitations of 1/8 bits are in producing work and why it can be logically to buy 1400 because your not sure what work you may be doing in the future.
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Offline Michael Kellough

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Re: Which router
« Reply #58 on: October 10, 2017, 05:55 PM »
for those that can't decide between the 1010 and 1400 and wrestle with not wanting buying more tool then they need, or  spending a bit more and go for the generalist model. I personally ended up with the 1010 and found the main production issue that you have to accept is not the size of the bits available, but based on the work needed to do, the length of the 1/8" bits. in boring holes, slots and and templating work you can only work on 3/4 material.

I've never seen in this forum this fact. perhaps it's widely understood what the limitations of 1/8 bits are in producing work and why it can be logically to buy 1400 because your not sure what work you may be doing in the future.

I doubt 1/8" bits with 1/2" shanks would be any longer...

Offline Steven Owen

  • Posts: 126
Re: Which router
« Reply #59 on: October 11, 2017, 11:22 AM »
I think the 1400 is too pretty a router to bury under a router table especially when a PC motor and a lift does a better job at a cheaper price.
And me MUCH more powerful! There is nothing better than the Porter Cable 7518 in a nice Incra, Woodpeckers, Benchdog, etc lift in a good solid cast iron router table top and steel stand! I love it!

Porter Cable’s reliability has not been the same since they were bought out by Stanley Black & Decker.  I would say the Milwaukee 5625-20 has become the new de-facto king of the router tables.  In a Incra Lift, it can hold it’s own against a OF 2200 in a Router Table set-up. 

A router table seems like a waste for an OF 2200.  If you’re going to pay that much for an OF2200, it should be getting used for heavy duty freehand tasks.