GPowers
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« Reply #210 on: November 12, 2010, 01:05 PM » |
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A foot pedal to control the power, so a tool could be turned on and off with out fumbling for the on/off switch.
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Greg Powers
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Wood_Junkie
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Location: Madison, Wisconsin - USA Member Since: Dec 2009
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« Reply #211 on: November 12, 2010, 01:08 PM » |
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A foot pedal to control the power, so a tool could be turned on and off with out fumbling for the on/off switch.
These can be purchased right now as aftermarket items. Though not made by Festool... (I realize the thread topic, but just want to point out these aren't a missing niche item). |
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GPowers
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Location: West Coast, USA Member Since: Mar 2010
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« Reply #212 on: November 12, 2010, 01:54 PM » |
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A foot pedal to control the power, so a tool could be turned on and off with out fumbling for the on/off switch.
These can be purchased right now as aftermarket items. Though not made by Festool... (I realize the thread topic, but just want to point out these aren't a missing niche item). True, I was looking at the one at amazon: http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9089-Switch-Continuous-Running/dp/B000LJNJOY/It is a tap for on and tap for off vs a tap and hold for on. |
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« Last Edit: November 14, 2010, 03:06 PM by GPowers »
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Greg Powers
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speed
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Location: uk Member Since: May 2009
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« Reply #213 on: November 14, 2010, 12:48 PM » |
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a digital radio that runs off a t15 /t12 battery  |
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has made the change. now 100% T-loc  |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #214 on: November 14, 2010, 05:06 PM » |
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a digital radio that runs off a t15 /t12 battery And 18 |
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #215 on: November 14, 2010, 06:37 PM » |
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How about "dummy" batteries for the cordless products that have a built-in step down transformer and mains cord to plug into an electrical outlet for those times when being tied to an outlet is less important than continuous full power run time. Example: The Carvex would have the option to use batteries or direct plug in. Same for the drills, even though being tied to the cord wouldn't be as much of a real world benefit as for a jigsaw, but having a universal option might make it a possibility. Possibly other tools could be developed using this concept, like the EHL65 small one-handed planer in a battery powered/corded version, the DX93 and the RO90.
I'd also like to see a more powerful, heavier duty (less delicate), larger capacity Kapex and a specific spot on all of Festool's websites for consumer product suggestions and improvements, because not everyone is on, wants to be or knows of the FOG to give input. You never know who will come up with the next great idea. Yes, I know it will require extra work for some Festool employees around the world to sift through and deal with that information, costing the company money. Might be worth it, though.
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GPowers
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Location: West Coast, USA Member Since: Mar 2010
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« Reply #216 on: November 14, 2010, 07:38 PM » |
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How about "dummy" batteries for the cordless products that have a built-in step down transformer and mains cord to plug into an electrical outlet for those times when being tied to an outlet is less important than continuous full power run time. Example: The Carvex would have the option to use batteries or direct plug in. Same for the drills, even though being tied to the cord wouldn't be as much of a real world benefit as for a jigsaw, but having a universal option might make it a possibility. Possibly other tools could be developed using this concept, like the EHL65 small one-handed planer in a battery powered/corded version, the DX93 and the RO90.
I like that idea. The one tool for both cord and cordless. That would be very cool  |
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Greg Powers
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Jesse Cloud
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Location: Placitas, NM Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 1451
Festooling at the end of a dirt road in New Mexico
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« Reply #217 on: November 15, 2010, 07:21 PM » |
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A gadget that would do for dominoes what a center point does for dowels. That is, you cut a mortise, stick in the gadget, then butt it against the mating piece. It would leave some marks so that you could plan exactly where to put the mating mortise. dowl center pointsAn example of how it would be used: I want to mortise an armrest into the back leg of a chair. I could fit the armrest in at just the position I want (most comfortable) and mark the location of the matching mortise on the leg. |
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
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« Reply #218 on: November 16, 2010, 05:00 AM » |
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A gadget that would do for dominoes what a center point does for dowels. That is, you cut a mortise, stick in the gadget, then butt it against the mating piece. It would leave some marks so that you could plan exactly where to put the mating mortise. dowl center pointsAn example of how it would be used: I want to mortise an armrest into the back leg of a chair. I could fit the armrest in at just the position I want (most comfortable) and mark the location of the matching mortise on the leg. I like idea saves working out just bang it up and your done Jmb |
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VictorL
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Location: South-Central CT Member Since: Feb 2007
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« Reply #219 on: November 16, 2010, 12:49 PM » |
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Ripping saw blades with thick carbide tips for cutting wood with nails and concrete residuals.
Similar to Bosch's Construct Wood.
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Sparktrician
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Location: Northern Virginia (That's in the USA, Pilgrim!) Member Since: Dec 2009
Posts: 1210
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« Reply #220 on: November 28, 2010, 12:00 PM » |
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I'd be delighted if Festool made a guide stop for the MFK700 that would work with the guide rail system.  |
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- Willy -
MFT/3 x2, TS55, Guide Rails x3, Parallel Guide Set, CT22 w/Boom Arm, CT Mini, RO90, RO125, ETS125, RTS400, RAS115.04, C12 + Centrotec Imperial Bits, CSX Set, DF500 Domino Set, SCG-10, Domino Plate from RonWen, MFK700 Set, CMS-GE, OF1010, OF1400, OF2200 Set, LR32 System, MFS System, Syslite, Systainers, Sortainers, clamps.
Coming attractions: Carvex, Kapex, Ti-15, more "Stuff"-tainers...
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Mavrik
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Location: SOUTH AFRICA (ZA) Member Since: Oct 2008
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« Reply #221 on: December 27, 2010, 09:50 AM » |
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(1) An MFT clamping element that was slightly lower so it would fit underneath the guide rail for holding small pieces. The handle is just too high.  (2) A smooth curved plastic attachment that could fit to the whole front of the MFT table ... that would prevent the hose from snagging on the front edge. (maybe I should make something like this by cutting open a PVC pipe lengthwise?) |
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TS55, MFT 1080, PS300, EHL 65, Domino, OF 1010, CTL 22, RO 125, BS75
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Sparktrician
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Location: Northern Virginia (That's in the USA, Pilgrim!) Member Since: Dec 2009
Posts: 1210
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« Reply #222 on: December 27, 2010, 10:20 AM » |
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(1) An MFT clamping element that was slightly lower so it would fit underneath the guide rail for holding small pieces. The handle is just too high. (2) A smooth curved plastic attachment that could fit to the whole front of the MFT table ... that would prevent the hose from snagging on the front edge. (maybe I should make something like this by cutting open a PVC pipe lengthwise?) 1) What about using 1/4" plywood shims to raise the clamped piece to get clearance until Festool comes out with a lower profile? 2) Would a piece of old garden hose sliced lengthwise provide the snag-resistance better than the more rigid PVC while not wanting to slide off as easily as the PVC? |
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- Willy -
MFT/3 x2, TS55, Guide Rails x3, Parallel Guide Set, CT22 w/Boom Arm, CT Mini, RO90, RO125, ETS125, RTS400, RAS115.04, C12 + Centrotec Imperial Bits, CSX Set, DF500 Domino Set, SCG-10, Domino Plate from RonWen, MFK700 Set, CMS-GE, OF1010, OF1400, OF2200 Set, LR32 System, MFS System, Syslite, Systainers, Sortainers, clamps.
Coming attractions: Carvex, Kapex, Ti-15, more "Stuff"-tainers...
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Jerry Sitton
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Location: Greenwood In Member Since: Nov 2010
Posts: 53
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« Reply #223 on: December 30, 2010, 06:35 PM » |
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I didn't read all of the post, hopefully not repeating, my bad.
I would love to see the 1010 and 1400 routers have the same locking fine
depth control as on the 2200 EB.
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Dovetail65
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Feb 2008
Posts: 3864
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« Reply #224 on: January 03, 2011, 09:02 AM » |
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I wish Festool made a 8" Rotex sander. |
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The one who says it can't be done should avoid interrupting the person doing it.
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fortrout
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Location: Wilmington, Delaware U.S.A. Member Since: Apr 2009
Posts: 72
Bench dog
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« Reply #225 on: February 13, 2011, 12:21 PM » |
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I wish they would make a plunge base for MFK700.
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« Last Edit: February 13, 2011, 12:24 PM by fortrout »
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Peter Halle
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Location: Powhatan, Virginia USA Member Since: Jul 2007
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« Reply #226 on: February 13, 2011, 12:34 PM » |
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A less expensive trammel / circle attachment for the OF 1400 instead of the MFS series.
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day. The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy. They also were in the minority. Their complaint: They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in. I guess the truth hurts.
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Gene Howerton
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Feb 2007
Posts: 97
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« Reply #227 on: February 13, 2011, 12:47 PM » |
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I also wish they made a plunge base for the 700. I would buy one in a second.
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
Posts: 5204
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« Reply #228 on: February 13, 2011, 12:49 PM » |
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I wish festool invented some sort of arch creator. Like for when im on site and I have to make dummy frames for the bricklayers and I have to make arches. I only know two ways to do this with out using a CNC when I got my work shop would come in handy for stuff like this. Any way I would like something for site!
The most common way I do it if find something flexible plastic really as its more likely to bend consistently as a thin bit of wood if it has a knot or odd grain wont bend evenly. The other option if I had the space or room is have two sheets of 8x4 flat on the ground and draw a square line from the centre of the arch and use a string line but this takes time and is awkward and just for arch windows it aint worth doing so I normal stick with something bendable! As the arches are for example 1metre wide and only 80mm high this is a VERY large circle and two 8x4 sheet aint always long enough.
Wha I have been think of it something which runs along the straight edge of the ply! With a wheel which measures how far the devices is traveling. Then a little motor which extends or retracts a bar on the end of the bar you will have your pencil or ben or something which will mark the ply/mdf sheet. So you type in 1metre for the width of the arch and the heigh you want which is 80mm so a little computer inside will calculate and process this date and then you move along the front edge with this device and because of the wheel it will be know how quickly and how much extend or retract the bar as you roll it along.
Maybe something like this exist or some one know a better way to do arches please let me know.
JMB
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
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« Reply #229 on: February 13, 2011, 01:13 PM » |
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Im not very good at explaining so done a quick sketch up. I have not finished of the bar but you get the idea they allow for a geared wheel to extend or retract the bar as you move along and the wheels measure the distance. So if you was to move along quicker the bar will extend or retract quicker but obviously it has its limits to how fast it can extend or retract the bar so you cant run across the front edge lol  JMB |
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William Herrold
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Location: Sweden Member Since: Jan 2008
Posts: 448
"failure is imminent"
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« Reply #230 on: February 13, 2011, 01:30 PM » |
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I wish festool invented some sort of arch creator. Like for when im on site and I have to make dummy frames for the bricklayers and I have to make arches. I only know two ways to do this with out using a CNC when I got my work shop would come in handy for stuff like this. Any way I would like something for site!
The most common way I do it if find something flexible plastic really as its more likely to bend consistently as a thin bit of wood if it has a knot or odd grain wont bend evenly. The other option if I had the space or room is have two sheets of 8x4 flat on the ground and draw a square line from the centre of the arch and use a string line but this takes time and is awkward and just for arch windows it aint worth doing so I normal stick with something bendable! As the arches are for example 1metre wide and only 80mm high this is a VERY large circle and two 8x4 sheet aint always long enough.
Wha I have been think of it something which runs along the straight edge of the ply! With a wheel which measures how far the devices is traveling. Then a little motor which extends or retracts a bar on the end of the bar you will have your pencil or ben or something which will mark the ply/mdf sheet. So you type in 1metre for the width of the arch and the heigh you want which is 80mm so a little computer inside will calculate and process this date and then you move along the front edge with this device and because of the wheel it will be know how quickly and how much extend or retract the bar as you roll it along.
Maybe something like this exist or some one know a better way to do arches please let me know.
JMB
Something like this: |
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"I don't believe anything, but I have a lot of suspicions"
R.A.W.
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jmbfestool
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Posts: 5204
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« Reply #231 on: February 13, 2011, 01:42 PM » |
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Nice job!
But not that extreme lol!
Im on about just simple dummie frames for normal house which are very wide and low profile which I would use my jigsaw to cut not a router lol I would have two pieces of ply and then stick some 2x1 inbetween. Your circumference is small enough for you to use your Festool Mfs but if you had much lower profile 80 mm at 1metre or more thats a very large circle. You would need a longer mfs.
JMB
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William Herrold
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Location: Sweden Member Since: Jan 2008
Posts: 448
"failure is imminent"
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« Reply #232 on: February 13, 2011, 01:50 PM » |
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The trammel pictured i use for casings / arched doors/windows. Last count I was up to 8+ meters of MFS profiles, I use them for many different jobs.
The earth cellar forms i cut out with a jigsaw and finished w/ a EHL65 planer. each joint has 4, 10mm doms- and a kreg coutersink to pull them together.
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"I don't believe anything, but I have a lot of suspicions"
R.A.W.
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dharmon
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Location: Everett, Washington, USA Member Since: Nov 2007
Posts: 16
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« Reply #233 on: February 13, 2011, 01:55 PM » |
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(1) An MFT clamping element that was slightly lower so it would fit underneath the guide rail for holding small pieces. The handle is just too high. (2) A smooth curved plastic attachment that could fit to the whole front of the MFT table ... that would prevent the hose from snagging on the front edge. (maybe I should make something like this by cutting open a PVC pipe lengthwise?) 1) What about using 1/4" plywood shims to raise the clamped piece to get clearance until Festool comes out with a lower profile? 2) Would a piece of old garden hose sliced lengthwise provide the snag-resistance better than the more rigid PVC while not wanting to slide off as easily as the PVC? These would be really nice. How about about having the MFT/3 front guide rail support finger drop below this curved surface, so that I can quit scratching my plywood pieces. Also, maybe Festool could develop a portable power pack that attaches to the tool using the plug-it cord. |
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
Posts: 5204
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« Reply #234 on: February 13, 2011, 01:56 PM » |
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The trammel pictured i use for casings / arched doors/windows. Last count I was up to 8+ meters of MFS profiles, I use them for many different jobs.
The earth cellar forms i cut out with a jigsaw and finished w/ a EHL65 planer. each joint has 4, 10mm doms- and a kreg coutersink to pull them together.
I know wa ur saying but it takes some time setting up dont it plus aint practical on site I think. This is a job I made some arches for they are 2.7meters wide or more and the arch profile is about 200mm high as far as I can remember it has been a year or so now since I made them arches.  JMB |
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Dan Clermont
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Location: Vancouver / Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 973
Canadian Festool Dealer
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« Reply #235 on: February 13, 2011, 03:02 PM » |
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Some sort of UL / CSA approved tabletop where you could install your OF 1400/2200 router and then swap it out for a TS 55 / 75, etc
I realize the CMS is already available Worldwide except for North America. I sure wish Festool could get this thing onto North American soil. To me it is the last piece of the puzzle for a complete Festool shop.
Cheers
Dan Clermont
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Canadian Festool Dealer and User!!!
778-558-7745
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Alan m
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Location: Ireland Member Since: Aug 2010
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« Reply #236 on: February 13, 2011, 03:44 PM » |
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i would like the ct vacs to have a retractable cable like a domestic vac. push a button and a small motor pulls in the cord .
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now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
wish list
of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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Mavrik
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Location: SOUTH AFRICA (ZA) Member Since: Oct 2008
Posts: 138
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« Reply #237 on: February 13, 2011, 04:05 PM » |
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i would like the ct vacs to have a retractable cable like a domestic vac. push a button and a small motor pulls in the cord .
Probably my only major gripe with Festool is that I'm always tripping over wires and vacuum tubes and bumping into the vac body at my feet and the vac wheels get stuck on the wires on the floor and ... grrrr |
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TS55, MFT 1080, PS300, EHL 65, Domino, OF 1010, CTL 22, RO 125, BS75
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Ken Nagrod
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Posts: 3438
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« Reply #238 on: February 13, 2011, 08:35 PM » |
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I'll add this to my previous list: A drywall router with vacuum extraction similar to Rotozip.
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Brice Burrell
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
Posts: 6210
Remodeling Contractor
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« Reply #239 on: February 13, 2011, 10:20 PM » |
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I'll add this to my previous list: A drywall router with vacuum extraction similar to Rotozip.
Ken, you'll need to cut a lot of drywall to get your money back on a Festool rotozip.  I think it wouldn't hard for Festool to make one, they're already 3/4 of the way there with the MFK 700. |
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