Alan m
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Location: Ireland Member Since: Aug 2010
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« on: March 24, 2012, 03:33 PM » |
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hi there
given the reaction to the new ts55r
what features would you think the next one should have
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now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
wish list
of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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fortrout
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Location: Wilmington, Delaware U.S.A. Member Since: Apr 2009
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Bench dog
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« Reply #1 on: March 24, 2012, 03:42 PM » |
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It needs to stay on the track when cutting on 45 or its no better than the saw they have sold us already.
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duburban
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Location: Vermont Member Since: Sep 2011
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« Reply #2 on: March 24, 2012, 04:26 PM » |
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I keep thinking the new ts55 features are exactly what makita is already offering. Tilt lock, more power...
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ts75, ts55, ro150feq, ets150/3, trion, ct26, mft1080, estension wings, of1400, parallel guides, dts400, df500,
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
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« Reply #3 on: March 24, 2012, 04:43 PM » |
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Are you Bored Alan?! Starting all these random topics which you know will be most likely start a massive debate lol
Well
I would like to see A new rail system to be honest but the New TS55 would still be backwards compatible to the old rail.
This would allow for more features to be added LIKE!
1. Anti tilt so you dont have to worry once you let go the saw drops of the rail!
2. Using your CT vac to create suction on the rail so no clamps need for certain applications. Once you stop cutting vac shuts down and rail can be lifted off
3. A second track closer to the splinter guard for clamping smaller stuff when needed
4. Markings along the rail would be handy. You can have a couple stops front and back you place where you want! So you marked out your cut out like a sink on a work top...... You place your rail on it you can see the markings near the splinter guard which run across the rail you can place your stops on the marks start and finish of the cut and you then just simply cut. Pick the rail up place it on the other side on the marks and cut again.
Few more things but gotta go add them in a bit!
JMB
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« Last Edit: March 24, 2012, 07:22 PM by jmbfestool »
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andvari
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Location: Central NJ Member Since: Oct 2011
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« Reply #4 on: March 24, 2012, 05:06 PM » |
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Now that all of the blades have the same kerf I'd like to see a cutting guide mark for the off side of the blade.
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TS55, Domino 500, Domino Assortment, OF1400, CT36+Boom Arm, T12+3, FS3000, Parallel Guides, RO 90, ETS 150/3, Domino XL, Domiplate, LS130, RTS Guide Stop, CMS-GE
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neth27
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« Reply #5 on: March 24, 2012, 05:51 PM » |
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Here we go  |
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JimRay
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 79
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« Reply #6 on: March 24, 2012, 07:16 PM » |
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4. Markings along the rail would be handy. You can have a couple stops front and back you place where you want! So you marked out your cut out like a sink on a work top...... You place your rail on it you can marking near the splinter guard which run across the rail you can place your stops on the marks start and finished and you then just simply cut. Pick the rail up place it on the other side on the marks and cut again.
JMB
Now that is a great idea! In the meantime, maybe I'll add one of those sticky backed measuring tapes to one of my tracks and give your idea a test run. Jim Ray |
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Jim Ray
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Alan m
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Location: Ireland Member Since: Aug 2010
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« Reply #7 on: March 24, 2012, 09:31 PM » |
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Are you Bored Alan?! Starting all these random topics which you know will be most likely start a massive debate lol
Well
I would like to see A new rail system to be honest but the New TS55 would still be backwards compatible to the old rail.
This would allow for more features to be added LIKE!
1. Anti tilt so you dont have to worry once you let go the saw drops of the rail!
2. Using your CT vac to create suction on the rail so no clamps need for certain applications. Once you stop cutting vac shuts down and rail can be lifted off
3. A second track closer to the splinter guard for clamping smaller stuff when needed
4. Markings along the rail would be handy. You can have a couple stops front and back you place where you want! So you marked out your cut out like a sink on a work top...... You place your rail on it you can see the markings near the splinter guard which run across the rail you can place your stops on the marks start and finish of the cut and you then just simply cut. Pick the rail up place it on the other side on the marks and cut again.
Few more things but gotta go add them in a bit!
JMB
bored . a bit i suppose. a debate, yes but not the usual mafel is better stuff. i like some of those ideas jmb id like a bendy rail , like the mafel . |
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now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
wish list
of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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duburban
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Location: Vermont Member Since: Sep 2011
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« Reply #8 on: March 24, 2012, 09:58 PM » |
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i find this discussion curious from an industrial design point of view. what would does it cost festool to develop this technology and how much would you pay for it? perhaps some are brand loyal enough to stick with festool as the technology and prices climb but there has to be a price point that keeps it in the realm of justifiable. perhaps there could be levels of technology offered or add on's available after purchase for those that value those upgrades.
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ts75, ts55, ro150feq, ets150/3, trion, ct26, mft1080, estension wings, of1400, parallel guides, dts400, df500,
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Charimon
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Location: Omaha NE Member Since: Jun 2008
Posts: 652
Tool and Tile Junkie
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« Reply #9 on: March 24, 2012, 10:46 PM » |
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4. Markings along the rail would be handy. You can have a couple stops front and back you place where you want! So you marked out your cut out like a sink on a work top...... You place your rail on it you can see the markings near the splinter guard which run across the rail you can place your stops on the marks start and finish of the cut and you then just simply cut. Pick the rail up place it on the other side on the marks and cut again.
 Incra Nylon rules slide in and stay in place and allow you to place stops at defined distances, If you have the rapid clamp set use the front stop to make a "0" stop on the underside of the rail  I originally put the rule in to make fluted trim |
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« Last Edit: March 24, 2012, 11:02 PM by Charimon »
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"The existence of the flame thrower proves that at one time, somewhere, somebody said, " You Know, There's a group of people over there that I'd like to set on fire right now but they're too far away."
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
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« Reply #10 on: March 25, 2012, 05:20 AM » |
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4. Markings along the rail would be handy. You can have a couple stops front and back you place where you want! So you marked out your cut out like a sink on a work top...... You place your rail on it you can see the markings near the splinter guard which run across the rail you can place your stops on the marks start and finish of the cut and you then just simply cut. Pick the rail up place it on the other side on the marks and cut again.
Incra Nylon rules slide in and stay in place and allow you to place stops at defined distances, If you have the rapid clamp set use the front stop to make a "0" stop on the underside of the rail I originally put the rule in to make fluted trim Yes Like that but I would like the markings to correspond with markings near the splinter guard also so if you cant use the quick stops as a ''0''stop you can just place the rail on the marks. At the moment what I do is I tick a line with a pencil the position of the rail with he markings on the piece im cutting I then Plunge the saw then I place my first stop while keeping the saw in position so I know the start of the cut then I cut along untill I get to the end and stop leave my saw in position and place the end stop then for the rest of the cuts I just place the rail on the mark where I ticked on the rail and I can just cut simples. JMB |
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Rick Christopherson
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« Reply #11 on: March 25, 2012, 11:59 AM » |
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I hear people bringing up the Makita anti-tilt feature quiet often. What many of them don't realize is that this feature serves a purpose only when you are not using the saw. It stops the saw from falling over if you walk away from it. It doesn't serve a purpose during the cut. That's because if you let the saw ride against the anti-tilt rib, your bevel angle will be off. The absence of downward force on the rail will make this worse in the middle of a long cut. Knowing the way that Festool engineering thinks, I suspect that this is the reason why they have never incorporated an anti-tilt feature.
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Deansocial
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Location: derbyshire, uk Member Since: Mar 2010
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« Reply #12 on: March 25, 2012, 03:15 PM » |
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I hear people bringing up the Makita anti-tilt feature quiet often. What many of them don't realize is that this feature serves a purpose only when you are not using the saw. It stops the saw from falling over if you walk away from it. It doesn't serve a purpose during the cut. That's because if you let the saw ride against the anti-tilt rib, your bevel angle will be off. The absence of downward force on the rail will make this worse in the middle of a long cut. Knowing the way that Festool engineering thinks, I suspect that this is the reason why they have never incorporated an anti-tilt feature.
yeah but i wonder how many people have droped a saw due to the lack o this feature, i know i have and it cost me a new bevel gauge as a result. |
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Quercus
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« Reply #13 on: March 26, 2012, 03:02 PM » |
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Excuse my ignorance but why the fascination with anti-tilt, just hold the machine while the adjustment is made. I tried the new TS55R at eco-build and it is good.
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #14 on: March 26, 2012, 03:24 PM » |
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I hear people bringing up the Makita anti-tilt feature quiet often. What many of them don't realize is that this feature serves a purpose only when you are not using the saw. It stops the saw from falling over if you walk away from it. It doesn't serve a purpose during the cut. That's because if you let the saw ride against the anti-tilt rib, your bevel angle will be off. The absence of downward force on the rail will make this worse in the middle of a long cut. Knowing the way that Festool engineering thinks, I suspect that this is the reason why they have never incorporated an anti-tilt feature.
yeah but i wonder how many people have droped a saw due to the lack o this feature, i know i have and it cost me a new bevel gauge as a result. +1 I dropped mine because of the lack of anti tilt once when I first tilted the saw for the first time. |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #15 on: March 26, 2012, 03:32 PM » |
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I hear people bringing up the Makita anti-tilt feature quiet often. What many of them don't realize is that this feature serves a purpose only when you are not using the saw. It stops the saw from falling over if you walk away from it. It doesn't serve a purpose during the cut. That's because if you let the saw ride against the anti-tilt rib, your bevel angle will be off. The absence of downward force on the rail will make this worse in the middle of a long cut. Knowing the way that Festool engineering thinks, I suspect that this is the reason why they have never incorporated an anti-tilt feature.
I know what the anti tilt is for to stop my saw from falling of nothing more but your basically saying Festool thinks we (TS users) are idiots and are unable of knowing what the anti tilt is for so to avoid people calling up saying the saw doesnt cut at the correct angle unless I hold it down my self etc.... so Festool thought to avoid TS users (idiots) calling! they decided not to bother adding the anti tilt to avoid this hassle. umm... yeah thats the reason why festool didnt stick the anti tilt on. |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #16 on: March 26, 2012, 03:34 PM » |
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Excuse my ignorance but why the fascination with anti-tilt, just hold the machine while the adjustment is made. I tried the new TS55R at eco-build and it is good.
.... not just while the adjustment is made you have to hold it even after you have adjusted it to the angle you want. You have to hold it untill you remove of from the rail unless you want it falling onto the floor. |
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Alan m
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Location: Ireland Member Since: Aug 2010
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« Reply #17 on: March 26, 2012, 05:41 PM » |
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maybe the next ts caould tilt in wards so that the weight is still over the rail.
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now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
wish list
of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #18 on: March 26, 2012, 05:48 PM » |
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maybe the next ts caould tilt in wards so that the weight is still over the rail.
Funny you say that! I needed that feature to day! I was making 80mm rips 2400mm long 18mm MDF with a 45 degree cuts on both edges but cus it only tilts one way I had to place the rail on the off cut which isnt ideal. Any way after cutting two I quit! Even though my TS55 had a decent blade in wasnt too worn but after cutting them first two pieces it was very worn lol Black!!! my TS stopped working and needed cooling down  I changed tactic! I decided to just cut 80mm strips square then using my CMS module with OF2200 router and my large 45 degree cutter made a much better job and quicker and no burning and less hassle. JMB |
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Alex
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« Reply #19 on: March 26, 2012, 05:51 PM » |
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maybe the next ts caould tilt in wards so that the weight is still over the rail.
Where do you leave the motor? |
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Alan m
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Location: Ireland Member Since: Aug 2010
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« Reply #20 on: March 26, 2012, 05:59 PM » |
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maybe the next ts caould tilt in wards so that the weight is still over the rail.
Where do you leave the motor? if the motor come out and when back at 90 degrees it would free up some space for it to tilt in. maybe mount the motor at 45' and higher and use a few gears to bring the power down. im sure they could come up with something. while we are at it i would like it to tilt both ways |
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now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
wish list
of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #21 on: March 26, 2012, 06:02 PM » |
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maybe the next ts caould tilt in wards so that the weight is still over the rail.
Where do you leave the motor? if the motor come out and when back at 90 degrees it would free up some space for it to tilt in. maybe mount the motor at 45' and higher and use a few gears to bring the power down. im sure they could come up with something. while we are at it i would like it to tilt both ways Then maybe you should just ask them to make it worm drive with the motor facing backwards towards the user like a Skil saw? |
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Rick Christopherson
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« Reply #22 on: March 26, 2012, 06:29 PM » |
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I hear people bringing up the Makita anti-tilt feature quiet often. What many of them don't realize is that this feature serves a purpose only when you are not using the saw. It stops the saw from falling over if you walk away from it. It doesn't serve a purpose during the cut. That's because if you let the saw ride against the anti-tilt rib, your bevel angle will be off. The absence of downward force on the rail will make this worse in the middle of a long cut. Knowing the way that Festool engineering thinks, I suspect that this is the reason why they have never incorporated an anti-tilt feature.
I know what the anti tilt is for to stop my saw from falling of nothing more but your basically saying Festool thinks we (TS users) are idiots and are unable of knowing what the anti tilt is for so to avoid people calling up saying the saw doesnt cut at the correct angle unless I hold it down my self etc.... so Festool thought to avoid TS users (idiots) calling! they decided not to bother adding the anti tilt to avoid this hassle. umm... yeah thats the reason why festool didnt stick the anti tilt on. I didn't call you or anyone else an idiot. I said that the anti-tilt feature works only when the tool is not being used. Most people that do not have the Makita saw don't realize this. They think it functions while the saw is in operation. As you said previously, you dropped your saw once. If you had said that you repeatedly dropped your saw, then maybe I might have called you....ummm....spatially challenged? |
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #23 on: March 26, 2012, 06:39 PM » |
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No Rick. Butter fingers. |
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ART at WORK
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Buy less Recycle more
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« Reply #24 on: March 26, 2012, 07:52 PM » |
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I very much Like the ideas JMB. Especialy the vacume rail.
I would like the saw to have a LED light on it to light up that little mark on the side.
Also to help you see the marks on the wood to line up the rail in low light places.
It of course can be turned on or off.
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Kapex 120 + UG Set, ETS 150/3, DF 500, RO 90, MFT/3, CTL 36 AC, RO 150, 0F 900, CDD 12, TS 55, A5 Router table, First Aid kit, LR 32 SYS, FS 800, FS 1400, FS 1400 LR32, CTL Midi + Cleaning Set, Clamps, Parallel Guides, Centrotec drills, Zobo Forstner set and countersinks, Routers, Systainers, Sys Cart,
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fdengel
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« Reply #25 on: March 27, 2012, 07:13 AM » |
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maybe the next ts caould tilt in wards so that the weight is still over the rail.
Resulting in the blade pointing toward the user? |
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Reiska
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« Reply #26 on: March 27, 2012, 08:18 AM » |
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How about laser lines that dynamically adjust to the depth of the plunge and mark where the front and the back end of the blade run at any given plunge depth?
This would blast away the static markings on the side of the saw (like Mafell has) that define where the blades extents are at full depth plunge while doing holes in the middle of a table top.
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The sky's the limit in my workshop, literally. |
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fdengel
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« Reply #27 on: March 27, 2012, 09:28 AM » |
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How about laser lines that dynamically adjust to the depth of the plunge and mark where the front and the back end of the blade run at any given plunge depth?
At the top or the bottom of the workpiece? Or maybe use different colors of lasers to show the extents at the top vs. the bottom? |
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Reiska
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Hackers build things, Crackers break them.
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« Reply #28 on: March 27, 2012, 09:49 AM » |
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Well, I would presume that the top width would be most beneficial. Of course more the merrier =)
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The sky's the limit in my workshop, literally. |
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andvari
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« Reply #29 on: March 27, 2012, 10:22 AM » |
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hi there
given the reaction to the new ts55r
what features would you think the next one should have
A slightly longer standard guide rail. The 1400 guide rail isn't long enough to cross cut a 4x8 sheet of plywood without the guide gibs coming off the rail. |
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TS55, Domino 500, Domino Assortment, OF1400, CT36+Boom Arm, T12+3, FS3000, Parallel Guides, RO 90, ETS 150/3, Domino XL, Domiplate, LS130, RTS Guide Stop, CMS-GE
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