Jim Becker
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Location: SE PA Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 169
Think twice...write once...
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« Reply #60 on: September 08, 2009, 10:45 AM » |
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Hi,fellow festool fanatics; just use a grinder to knock the edges of of the hex of a 2" long #1,#2,#3 square drive and grind a detent relief so that it is captured in the chuck.Don't grind a tip you will lose the surface hardness. All ss exterior finish and inside finish screws are now Robertson drive.There are other "phillips" type screws,reed and prince,phearson these two previous are used in wooden boat building.one size bit will fit #4 to an #16 screw. The taper is the same , the cross grows exponentialy as the size screw increases and the shaft size of the bit gets larger yet they will work .
Been there, done that--put them in a spigot chuck on the lathe and used some files to adapt them. It works. But it's not ideal and certainly not as precise as a native solution would hopefully be.
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Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.
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ForumMFG
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Location: Marysville, Ohio Member Since: Jun 2009
Posts: 808
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« Reply #61 on: September 08, 2009, 08:26 PM » |
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I second the GRK screws. I found some locally at Rockler, they had a decent selection and when combined with the centrotec Torx pattern bits, they work great! It's nice being able to quickly switch between the driver and drill bits and those torx patterns simply don't slip. I always thought one screw is like another (don't go there, please  ) but there is a difference! I have a supply of square drive I have to use up but after that, it's GRK all the way. I will need to buy a few thousand of them this fall when I replace my deck. Their composite screws should work well. Got a website link?
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HowardH
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Location: Plano, Tx Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 704
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« Reply #62 on: September 08, 2009, 10:08 PM » |
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http://www.grkfasteners.com If they don't make it, you probably don't need it...
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Howard H The Plano Texas Festool Fanatic!
Shelby Metcalf, basketball coach at Texas A&M, recounting what he told a player who received four F's and one D: "Son, looks to me like you're spending too much time on one subject."
mft1080, T15, RO150FEQ, TS55, RTS400, ETS 150/3, OF1400, CT22, CT33, MFS 400 & 700, Boom Arm, 800, 1080, 1400, 1900 rails CSX drill Qwas dogs
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Joe Jensen
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Location: Phoenix AZ Area Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 140
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« Reply #63 on: September 10, 2009, 01:49 AM » |
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I have to admint, I was a "No square drive Festool hater" until I found the Centrotec Bit Holder "Bhs 65mm". Here is a link; http://www.festoolusa.com/products/cordless-drills/centrotec-drill-bits/pilot-bit-with-depth-stop/centrotec-bit-holder-bhs-65mm-492648.htmlIt has a locking collar, and with short hex shank bits, it's not longer combined than a Centrotec Festool bit. The only downsides are that it is slightly floppy, but way better than more magnetic holders. And, if you have a recess and need a longer shaft bit, the combo would likely be longer than a Centrotec bit. I'd prefer a centrotec solution, but this $29.50 locking collar bit holder is darn good.
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bill-e
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Location: Rindge, New Hampshire, USA Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 504
Rindge, New Hampshire, USA
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« Reply #64 on: September 10, 2009, 10:18 AM » |
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This does seem like a good compromise for those times when diameter isn't an issue. I have to admit the biggest complaint I have about using square drive bits in the Centrotec bit extender is leaving the bit stuck in the screw head.....this would solve that. But for those occasions were you dont want the extra bit diameter or bit length, a Centrotec bit would sure be nice. I'd even be happy to pay less money for a lesser quality Centrotec bit.
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thinkingdog
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Location: Illinois, Michigan UP & Wyo - USA Member Since: Aug 2009
Posts: 11
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« Reply #65 on: September 10, 2009, 12:41 PM » |
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Another dedicated endorser of the GRKs. They are excellent!
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Joe Jensen
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Location: Phoenix AZ Area Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 140
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« Reply #66 on: September 10, 2009, 01:03 PM » |
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Anyone want to buy the couple hundred dollars worth of square drive screws and bits I bought from McFeelys last year  I'd like to switch, but a gradual shift isn't very fun or workable, and I hate to dump all the square drive I have. Also, is there a great online source ala Mc Feelys for the GRKs?
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HowardH
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Location: Plano, Tx Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 704
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« Reply #67 on: September 10, 2009, 08:36 PM » |
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their videos are something else. They can make a screw 3' long!  Of course the demo would have been better had they used a T15 to drive them. These guys have them but I have never purchased anything from them.
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Howard H The Plano Texas Festool Fanatic!
Shelby Metcalf, basketball coach at Texas A&M, recounting what he told a player who received four F's and one D: "Son, looks to me like you're spending too much time on one subject."
mft1080, T15, RO150FEQ, TS55, RTS400, ETS 150/3, OF1400, CT22, CT33, MFS 400 & 700, Boom Arm, 800, 1080, 1400, 1900 rails CSX drill Qwas dogs
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Shawn
Festool Dealer
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Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada Member Since: Oct 2009
Posts: 67
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« Reply #68 on: November 18, 2009, 10:19 PM » |
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Robertson would be key! It is time!
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Dan Clark
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Location: Bellevue, WA USA Member Since: Jul 2009
Posts: 387
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« Reply #69 on: November 18, 2009, 10:55 PM » |
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These guys have better prices and a MUCH better selection: http://www.buygrkfasteners.com/. Here's a GRK info site: http://www.grkfasteners.com/ . Here's another vendor that carries nothing but Torx screws: http://screw-products.com/ I've bought maybe two thousand screws from them. Not a good as GRK, but pretty decent and the prices are better. Dan.
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« Last Edit: November 19, 2009, 11:00 AM by Dan Clark »
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jvsteenb
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Location: The Netherlands Member Since: Oct 2008
Posts: 363
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« Reply #70 on: November 19, 2009, 06:28 AM » |
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Doesn't look like Torx to me..... The inner and outer edges of a Torx profile are rounded, which is actually a design parameter. It helps to distribute the torque load over a wider part of the circumference, reducing wear significantly and increasing effectiveness when slight wear or minor misfitting occurs. Those are stardrives - they've been around a while, be it obscure. There's also a 12-point version, that was used in large bolts that had to be torqued very precisely. European car manufacturers used these 12 point stardrives on cilinderhead bolts, especially the "stretched" single-use bolts. They may still use them, but the majority is Torx now..... Come on guys, get aboard the Torx-train.... you won't regret.  Regards, Job
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TS55, OF1010, RO150, RTS400, PS300, T15+3, CTL22E, CMS-TS55+Basis5A (OF1010), MFT/3, MFS400/700, FS800-1080-1400-1900, Centrotec-SYS 09, DF 500 full set, some accessories 
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Dan Clark
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Location: Bellevue, WA USA Member Since: Jul 2009
Posts: 387
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« Reply #71 on: November 19, 2009, 10:54 AM » |
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Job, They're Torx. Check out the drawings and pics on the first page of the catalog: http://screw-products.com/pdfs/spi-retail.pdf. I've used Screw-Products, GRK, and other brand screws with Torx bits. GRK are better quality, but the heads are the same. I'm pretty sure they call them "Star Drive" because they think it's a more marketable name for Americans. They sell bits in T10 to T40 sizes: http://www.screw-products.com/drive-bits.htm. Hmmm... I wonder what the "T" means?  Dan. p.s. I've been on the Torx-train for years. I don't understand the reticence to move in that direction.
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« Last Edit: November 19, 2009, 11:00 AM by Dan Clark »
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Steve-CO
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Location: Littleton, CO Member Since: Oct 2007
Posts: 786
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« Reply #72 on: November 19, 2009, 10:58 AM » |
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Dan, Thanks for the links, one thing about your links, when you include a "period" at the end of them they don't work unless the period is deleted.
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Dan Clark
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Location: Bellevue, WA USA Member Since: Jul 2009
Posts: 387
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« Reply #73 on: November 19, 2009, 11:16 AM » |
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...
Dan, Thanks for the links, one thing about your links, when you include a "period" at the end of them they don't work unless the period is deleted. Steve, Thanks for the heads-up. It's fixed now. Unfortunately this is a problem with some forum software packages (like SMF) because they include periods when they parse the url address. When you place a url at the end of a sentence (like I normally do) and end the sentence with a period, the SMF software includes the period with the link. It's irritating. Other software packages (like vBulletin) don't have this problem. When you include a URL address and close it with a period, the software ignores the period when creating the link. So why doesn't Festool move to the another forum software package? Because it's huge effort when you have a well-established, customized forum like FOG. Other forum packages have some nice features, but I don't think it's worth the risk and effort to convert. I wouldn't do it and don't recommend it to others. Regards, Dan.
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« Last Edit: November 19, 2009, 11:17 AM by Dan Clark »
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Shane Holland
Festool USA Employee FOG Administrator
Online
Location: USA Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 5123
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« Reply #74 on: November 19, 2009, 11:21 AM » |
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I'm pretty sure they call them "Star Drive" because they think it's a more marketable name for Americans.
Torx is a trademarked brand and you have to pay a license to use that name. Star drive is the same thing without paying the licensing basically. That's my understanding from my days at a certain screw retailer.
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jvsteenb
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Location: The Netherlands Member Since: Oct 2008
Posts: 363
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« Reply #75 on: November 19, 2009, 12:06 PM » |
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OK Dan, you've convinced me - sort of. The link to the PDF you supplied sported some Torx heads, though some of the recesses look a bit "off-standard". There's only two Torx profiles: the Torx and the Torx-Plus ( slightly wider lobes, far less common ), the profile's ratio's are the same throughout the size range. ( And there's TTAP, and ofcourse tamper-resistant versions of the lot ) It's just that the picture you linked to in your earlier post doesn't really resemble a Torx profile, it's "edgy" instead of "lobe-like", and that nullifies part of the advantages. And apart from that, the name "star drive" has been used for the sharp-edged variant in 6- and 12-point (more common, aka spline-drive) configuration as well, and they've been around longer than Torx, for as far as I know - hence my confusion. Anyhow: I'm glad you're aboard the Torx-train - it's a smooth ride, isn't it ? I think I can conclude with a piece of advice that both parties can relate to: Screw Robertson !  Regards, Job
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TS55, OF1010, RO150, RTS400, PS300, T15+3, CTL22E, CMS-TS55+Basis5A (OF1010), MFT/3, MFS400/700, FS800-1080-1400-1900, Centrotec-SYS 09, DF 500 full set, some accessories 
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Brice Burrell
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
Posts: 6251
Remodeling Contractor
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« Reply #76 on: November 19, 2009, 12:31 PM » |
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.... Screw Robertson !  Regards, Job Unless you're a Canuck (Canadian) and then you're getting screwed by Robertson because that's all you can get up there. 
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Forrest Anderson
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Location: Edinburgh. Scotland Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 1072
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« Reply #77 on: November 19, 2009, 05:28 PM » |
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Doesn't look like Torx to me..... The inner and outer edges of a Torx profile are rounded, which is actually a design parameter. It helps to distribute the torque load over a wider part of the circumference, reducing wear significantly and increasing effectiveness when slight wear or minor misfitting occurs. Torx is a trademarked brand and you have to pay a license to use that name. Star drive is the same thing without paying the licensing basically. That's my understanding from my days at a certain screw retailer.
I agree with Job (jvsteenb) and Shane. The photo at http://screw-products.com is this:  Although the patent has lapsed, TORX is still a trademarked name in the USA, Canada, UK and other other countries and Acument Global Technologies allow selected manufacturers to manufacture TORX products under license. They naturally take a poor view of manufacturers making look-alike products, as the following except from their TORX Drive System brochure shows (note the curved walls of the "Authentic TORX Drive bit"):  Their Licensing Program Review brochure shows that they hunt down companies of items which are sold TORX, but are not the genuine licensed article or manufactured to the correct standards:
Trademark Usage and Counterfeits Our licensed product trademarks are currently registered in 78 countries and registered with United States Customs. Our trademarks are known and recognized worldwide. It is imperative that any product infringement is stopped immediately. By not doing so, end users not only receive an inferior product, but the product could become unrecognizable in the marketplace and take on a generic connotation. We then run the risk of losing our reputation in the marketplace. We are very active in the pursuit of counterfeit activity. We attend trade shows, review trade journals, and do key-word searches on the internet. We also rely heavily on our licensees to report violations. We are committed to pursue all trademark infringements and counterfeits brought to our attention and will use any resources, including legal action, to protect these trademarks and patents. We are protecting not only our interests, but the interests of our licensees. As a licensee, training on how to spot illegal product is an important part of the package. The confidential product binders go into detail explaining the proper usage of the trademarks so there is no mistaking a genuine product versus a fake.
To get round these legal problems, manufacturers of TORX-like items often call them "star drives" or "star bits" or something similar. They don't have to pay a license fee or make them to the strict TORX standards, but that naturally means that the shape of the star recess will vary a bit from manufacturer to manufacturer. That, in turn, means that getting a good fit between bit and screwhead can be difficult. A good example of this is the screw-products.com own brochure, where close examination of a selection of their "Star Drive" heads will reveal several different designs:  Forrest
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« Last Edit: November 19, 2009, 06:07 PM by Forrest Anderson »
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Inner10
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Location: CANADA (CA) Member Since: Oct 2009
Posts: 175
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« Reply #78 on: November 20, 2009, 12:45 AM » |
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We have decent access to TORX screws through Fastenal up here.
TORX is excellent for hi-torque applications, all my concrete screws are TORX. For softwoods the robertson is king since it holds itself on the drive better without the use of a magnet. Too bad we can't all standardize on the Wurth screws with their special tapered star-type end.
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jvsteenb
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Location: The Netherlands Member Since: Oct 2008
Posts: 363
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« Reply #79 on: November 20, 2009, 12:05 PM » |
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Especially for these applications, there's TTAP. It's an authentic Torx profile ( acually I should state TORX profile ) with a small cilindrical cone added to the tip of the driver/bottom of the recess. It may be driven with a standard Torx bit, but then you don't get the added advantage of the hold-fast wedging action. However: I get around with standard Torx, they don't tend to fall off, even when screwing top-down a simple magnetig bitholder is enough to hold the screw, and they NEVER stick in the screw when done ( the main reason a standard hex-drive will drive me nuts from time to time instead of just driving nuts ( and bolts and screws, of course ).
Another nice design is the UniScrew, it's sort of a stepped hex-drive that has only one bit-size. The depth of the recess varies with the screwsize, and determines how much of the size-steps are actually used. In a pinch, they can be loosend with a standard hex key. Nice design - having only one bit size without the usual trade-offs is a big pro. I like 'm a lot, but they're far from common.
Regards,
Job
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TS55, OF1010, RO150, RTS400, PS300, T15+3, CTL22E, CMS-TS55+Basis5A (OF1010), MFT/3, MFS400/700, FS800-1080-1400-1900, Centrotec-SYS 09, DF 500 full set, some accessories 
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Inner10
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Location: CANADA (CA) Member Since: Oct 2009
Posts: 175
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« Reply #80 on: November 20, 2009, 12:39 PM » |
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Im sure its not as big of an issue with wood, but in concrete TORX is so reisitant to cam-out that you can easily snap the head off your fastner when using an SDS drill to drive them (or other big drill that offers poor control).
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jvsteenb
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Location: The Netherlands Member Since: Oct 2008
Posts: 363
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« Reply #81 on: November 20, 2009, 12:55 PM » |
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I would imagine so..... It's also easy to snap the head of an M8 bolt with a 3' extension bar on your spanner...... Still I would be way more p*ssed if the head rounded over, or the spanner gave up.
Regards,
Job
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TS55, OF1010, RO150, RTS400, PS300, T15+3, CTL22E, CMS-TS55+Basis5A (OF1010), MFT/3, MFS400/700, FS800-1080-1400-1900, Centrotec-SYS 09, DF 500 full set, some accessories 
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Joe Jensen
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Location: Phoenix AZ Area Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 140
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« Reply #82 on: December 13, 2009, 03:52 PM » |
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I gave up on Robertson bits for the Festool. Just ordered a full assortment of Torx from GRK. 100 or like 20 sizes. Anyone want to buy an assortment of Robertson from McFeelies 
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William Herrold
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Location: Sweden Member Since: Jan 2008
Posts: 448
"failure is imminent"
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« Reply #83 on: December 26, 2009, 12:34 PM » |
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I have two boxes of Kreg screws (shipping to Sweden cost more than the screws) so I'm going to jump on the wagon here with the square-drive plea. Another thing, I ordered the 2008 centrotec doodad systainer and was really bummed to find that there was no centrotec locking bit holder(bhs65mm) in the box.
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"I don't believe anything, but I have a lot of suspicions" R.A.W.
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Dave Ronyak
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 2233
Flyin' from NE Ohio
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« Reply #84 on: December 28, 2009, 02:25 PM » |
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This does seem like a good compromise for those times when diameter isn't an issue. I have to admit the biggest complaint I have about using square drive bits in the Centrotec bit extender is leaving the bit stuck in the screw head.....this would solve that. But for those occasions were you dont want the extra bit diameter or bit length, a Centrotec bit would sure be nice. I'd even be happy to pay less money for a lesser quality Centrotec bit. Don't bet on the Festool Centrotec bit holder BHS 65 extension (Item 492648) working that well. I recently received mine and upon comparing its function to my nearly new Centrotec bit holder BH 60 (Item 492539) supplied with my new T 12 +3 drill set, I found that can pull the Festool supplied 25mm bits out of the BHS 65 with locking collar just as easily (or with as much difficulty, if you prefer) with my hand as from the BH 60 bit holder. In other words, the locking mechanism is not a true locking mechanism, but it does assist in release of the bit. I visually confirmed that the quick release collar on my BHS 65 was working properly in the sense that sliding the collar allows the detent gripping wire ring to retract. The BHS 65 is not worth the $29.50 in my opinion since both bit holders are magnetic which feature I like. Save yourself ~US$9.50 by buying the BH 60 bit holder, or least try it at the store before purchasing. The power of the magnet in the BH60 is sufficient to firmly hold 3/4 inch long Phillips head screws with the drill assembly pointing straight down. This is very handy for installation work. If there was a good combination bit holder, one that would equally well hold both wire detent and ball detent bits, that would be of value and use to me. Making your own Centrotec compatible [Robertson] bits appears to be rather simple, if you want to reduce the wobble of conventional bits of lengths longer than 25mm. The dealer that sold me my drill showed me what is different about Centrotec and how I could modify regular 1/4 inch hex drive bits to fit Centrotec. Dave R.
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Friends, family and Festools make for a good retirement. PCs...I'm not so sure.
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Brice Burrell
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
Posts: 6251
Remodeling Contractor
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« Reply #85 on: December 28, 2009, 03:32 PM » |
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Dave, in regards to the BHS 65, I believe it is made to lock on to both wire and ball-detent bits. I borrowed the BHS from Dan Clark so I could comment on its function for my T15 review. While I didn't try to pull the bits outs of the BHS, I didn't have any trouble with ball-detent drill bit pulling out as I withdrew the bit from the hole after drilling. Have you tried using a ball-detent drill bit with your BHS? Maybe yours is bad.
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RonWen
Retailer
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Location: One of the Thirteen Original Colonies of the United States of America. Member Since: Feb 2009
Posts: 1547
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« Reply #86 on: December 28, 2009, 04:59 PM » |
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I gave up on Robertson bits for the Festool. Just ordered a full assortment of Torx from GRK. 100 or like 20 sizes. Anyone want to buy an assortment of Robertson from McFeelies  I'm somewhat disappointed in the McFeely's square drives -- they seem to cam out awfully easy. Where is the best deal on GRK torx screws?
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Steve-CO
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Location: Littleton, CO Member Since: Oct 2007
Posts: 786
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« Reply #87 on: December 28, 2009, 05:19 PM » |
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I gave up on Robertson bits for the Festool. Just ordered a full assortment of Torx from GRK. 100 or like 20 sizes. Anyone want to buy an assortment of Robertson from McFeelies  I'm somewhat disappointed in the McFeely's square drives -- they seem to cam out awfully easy. Where is the best deal on GRK torx screws? Rockler carries a limited supply of GRX or try here
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Alex
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Location: The Netherlands Member Since: Nov 2008
Posts: 2875
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« Reply #88 on: December 28, 2009, 10:33 PM » |
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Don't bet on the Festool Centrotec bit holder BHS 65 extension (Item 492648) working that well. I recently received mine and upon comparing its function to my nearly new Centrotec bit holder BH 60 (Item 492539) supplied with my new T 12 +3 drill set, I found that can pull the Festool supplied 25mm bits out of the BHS 65 with locking collar just as easily (or with as much difficulty, if you prefer) with my hand as from the BH 60 bit holder. In other words, the locking mechanism is not a true locking mechanism, but it does assist in release of the bit.
I guess yours must have a little defect because after reading this I tried to pull a couple of different bits out of my BHS 65 but I didn't succeed one time. They were all secured very tightly. Over all it functions quite ok but I do have some annoyances with it. I am used to work with a bit holder that, I'm sorry to say, was of much higher quality than this BHS 65 yet was a whole lot cheaper, namely 5 euros against the BHS 65's 27 euro. I got the other holder for over 10 years now and there's not a dent nor a spec of rust on it and it still works as it should. It's simply indestructible and the moving collar has a very smooth action. The BHS 65's collar on the other hand doesn't move so well I think. It's a bit wobbly and it sometimes gets stuck behind the ring around the nozzle opening. It also feels a bit rough, as if you move the collar over sanding paper whereas my old bit holder's collar just glides with great ease. I also think the magnet in the BHS 65 is way too strong. It is not needed to hold the bit. In fact, it makes removing the bit too much of a hassle. Very often do I need to put a lot of force into gripping the little part of the bit that sticks out to take it out. It might be nice if you want to drive a screw into something and stick the screw on the bit. But when you have to loosen a screw, I find it pretty irritating that every screw keeps sticking onto it and you have to remove them by hand. Finally, I think the tip of the BHS is too wide. If a screw is sunken a bit deeper into the material the tip of the BHS will hit the material. On my older bit holder the tip was beveled so the bit holder could get deeper into the screw hole. The BHS 65 is not worth the $29.50 in my opinion since both bit holders are magnetic which feature I like. Save yourself ~US$9.50 by buying the BH 60 bit holder, or least try it at the store before purchasing. The power of the magnet in the BH60 is sufficient to firmly hold 3/4 inch long Phillips head screws with the drill assembly pointing straight down. This is very handy for installation work.
I agree with you that the BH60 is much better value for the money. I like this one. The magnet is very strong and keeps the bit perfectly in place. I haven't had one pulling out yet while this would happen over and over again with other bit holders I used. And since it is thinner than the BHS65 it is also much easier to take the bit out because your fingers get a better grip on the bit. Before I got this one, I never liked non-locking bit holders. But I like this one very much. I find myself using the BH60 more and more over the BHS65. 
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PaulMarcel
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Location: Chandler AZ USA Member Since: Mar 2008
Posts: 1195
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« Reply #89 on: December 30, 2009, 04:13 AM » |
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Joining this thread a lil late... only came up on my recent unread list after the previous posting. I've had on my to-do list the regrinding of a couple drive bits for the C12, which is a relatively recent acquisition. When I read this thread, I said, "oh yeah..." and went to do the grinding much like lcc and Jim Becker mentioned earlier. I have a couple sets of #1 and #2 Robertson drives so I picked one to gently file down the hex corners then work in a ball detent. Maybe 10 minutes for both including finding a file that walked away. Fit like a dream and don't wiggle. I also did the same to the Kreg #2 that came with my pocket screw set... okay, much longer cuz that puppy is made out of diamonds or something, but nothing a Dremel with a grinding bit couldn't hog out. It, too, fits perfectly. Picture below shows, left to right, the Festool drive bit adaptor, McFeelys #1, McFeelys #2, and an unmodified McFeelys #2 and the bastards that did it  Highly recommended. 
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Visit my blog for Festool adventures Shirt size: L  Twitter: @HalfInchShy
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