I haven't tried it on poly, but sheepskin and felt pad to a great job of buffing out lacquers. 

Are you a total newbie at rubbing out a finish or do you just want suggestions for the RO 150?

Justin

Well you started out with a "high" gloss finish which is a good starting step as semi-gloss, satin, etc tend to not be as hard when fully cured (that's what people tell me).  A hard curing finish is easier to rub out than a not so hard finish, mostly because rubbing out a finish entails a process of scratching the surface with an abrasive --- you can imagine that a hard surface can be scratched more uniformly than a soft (gooey or plastic-like) one ---- so a process of replacing scratches with finer and finer scratches is what you will be doing as you move up the abrasives ladder (fine to finer grits). 

I can send you some PDF's on the matter if you would like.

I haven't used a the Rotex to finish a finish but the Platin or Brilliant starting at around 320 grit might work ---  the idea in the beginning is to get as uniform, level, and flat of a surface as possible --- makes it a lot easier as you move up the grits.  Watch out for edges and varnish does not form a uniform, mono-layer when its cured (each coat that you apply remains discrete) so if you rub through the top coat(s) you will see "witness lines" in your finish.

Check out Per Swenson's article (PDF) Sanding Bar Top here: http://www.swensonz.com/  (under Reviews and Instructions) --- I think he uses a Rotex to finish out the finish.



Justin

Justin F.
Thanks for the information and the link. I'll accept any pdf's from which you think I would benefit. You are very helpful and I appreciate your efforts.
James
 

another late answer but: http://www.woodshopdemos.com/trays-13.htm

James1, What exactly is Varathane Professional Clear Gloss? Is that a polyurethane finish?

If so, from my understanding polyurethane finishes are difficult to rub out and get a consistent sheen.

Just how large is the area that needs polishing? Remember I said it was difficult, but I didn't say it was impossible. How old is the finish coat?

Dear Woodenfish,
The finish has cured about 3 weeks. The area is about three and a half square feet.
Thanks,
James1
 

James1, Depending on the ambient temperature over those last three weeks you might need to wait another 1 to 3 weeks before attempting to polish the finish. Woodshopdemos link looks real good.

Hi Woodenfish.
Thanks for your expertise of this last stage of my project and your evaluation of the Woodshopdemo. Much APPRECIATED.
James1
 

another way to go MIGHT be this

its festool products all the way, festool know more than a little about polishing



i occasionally have to polish Getacore or Corian kitchen countertops to a high gloss finish

im sure there are many other trade names, a thick plastic bonded to a moisture resistant chipboard [partical board]



for the final finish i use festools liquid polishing compound (you go through 3 grades of paper before this stage with getacore)

its like T Cut and used in the same way, rub it on and buff it off (but see the cautionary note below)

festool version is even finer than T cut

it equates to 11'000 grit

then buff it off with a festool sheepskin bonnet




warning, attention, caution.........................   work in small areas at a time..............

if the liquid FULLY dries out hard, before you buff it off ...................................... you start all over again

you cant take a tea break like T Cut

sorry that would be a coffee break  guys

and come back to it