Imakechips
 OfflineMember Since: Nov 2008
Posts: 4
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« on: January 10, 2009, 10:35 PM » |
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I made a couple of laminated bowls from scraps in the shop (walnut, oak, paduak, etc.). The glue is Titebond III. The bowls will have direct food contact.
What finish should I use?
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Justin F.
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Location: Louisiana Member Since: Dec 2007
Posts: 311
Louisiana, USA
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« Reply #1 on: January 10, 2009, 10:39 PM » |
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Shellac is used on foods so that's a go, I would think. Justin P.S. What kind of foods will you use it for? might want to check this out: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=26893 |
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« Last Edit: January 10, 2009, 11:22 PM by Justin F. »
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" The greatest dangers to liberty lurk in the insidious encroachment by men of zeal, well meaning but without understanding. "
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Overtime
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Location: Eastern Iowa Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 265
Eastern Iowa USA
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« Reply #3 on: January 11, 2009, 12:41 AM » |
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Here is some more info... Food-Safe FinishesAnd a good combo for a great finish is tung oil then Carnauba wax. And you might want a Beal Bowl Buff Kits |
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Patrick
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Dave Ronyak
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 2233
Flyin' from NE Ohio
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« Reply #4 on: January 11, 2009, 01:37 AM » |
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Behlen's makes a product named "Salad Bowl Finish" that is food safe once dried. I've used mineral oil on wooden bowls and cutting boards. It has to be renewed periodically, though.
Dave R.
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Aquila
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Location: Brisbane, Australia Member Since: Jun 2008
Posts: 15
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« Reply #5 on: January 11, 2009, 07:46 AM » |
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For food safe finish on bowls, especially if they are salad bowls, probably the best and easiest finish to use is just olive oil liberally wiped on with a clean cloth or paper towel, allowed to soak in for a couple hours and then any remaining oil wiped off. Most will have soaked in completely.
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Imakechips
OfflineMember Since: Nov 2008
Posts: 4
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« Reply #6 on: January 11, 2009, 09:52 AM » |
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Thanks. I used to use the Behlen Salad Bowl finish when I was making wooden toys. It is very low viscosity and doen't build up any thickness or much shine. I really want the bowls to shine.
I think that I will try either the shellac or the Tung Oil this time. Maybe one finish on each bowl so that I can compare them.
Thanks again.
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wnagle
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Location: Akron, Ohio USA Member Since: Apr 2008
Posts: 502
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« Reply #7 on: January 11, 2009, 01:27 PM » |
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I've read that olive oil should not be used on sald bowls as a finishas it can go rancid. Nut oils such as walnut or flax, or just plain mineral oil will not go rancid.
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Wayne
TS 55, CT 33 x2, ROTEX 150, RO 90, DOMINO 500Q SET, TRION PS 300, OF 1400, MFT/3, ETS 150/3, KAPEX KS 120.
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Justin F.
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Location: Louisiana Member Since: Dec 2007
Posts: 311
Louisiana, USA
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« Reply #8 on: January 11, 2009, 05:07 PM » |
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I've read that olive oil should not be used on sald bowls as a finishas it can go rancid. Nut oils such as walnut or flax, or just plain mineral oil will not go rancid.
I've heard this as well. Justin |
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" The greatest dangers to liberty lurk in the insidious encroachment by men of zeal, well meaning but without understanding. "
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