Author Topic: Now using this primer  (Read 2365 times)

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Offline JCLP

  • Posts: 740
Now using this primer
« on: October 20, 2017, 03:54 PM »
Hello Fogger,
I've been on the hunt for a new primer that can be applied to mdf and bare wood and found this one. Lenmar's Duralaq undercoater is great. I sprayed it unthinned with a 1.8 on my Fuji Q5, full air and it came out perfect. I called Lenmar first and they recommended a 1.8 or maybe even a 2.0 needle and cap. No grain raise on maple veneer panels and one coat is all it needed. It sealed and covered the wood perfectly. A light sand after 2 hours and it sands like chalk and turns out mirror smooth. No clumping of sandpaper either.
Thought I would share.

JC

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Offline Neal W

  • Posts: 110
Re: Now using this primer
« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2017, 04:14 PM »
How was cleanup? What did you use to clean the gun and stuff?

Where do you purchase it (local or online)?
Turning perfectly good lumber into scrap and sawdust for more than 20 years!

Offline brewster201

  • Posts: 61
Re: Now using this primer
« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2017, 04:21 PM »
Did you get any tannin bleed when using it on oak?
Hand Woodworking

Offline Getmaverick

  • Posts: 87
Re: Now using this primer
« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2017, 06:47 PM »
So you prefer this over Kem Aqua? Whats the differences?

Offline brewster201

  • Posts: 61
Re: Now using this primer
« Reply #4 on: October 20, 2017, 07:59 PM »
We are talking about a primer not a finish coat
Hand Woodworking

Offline Getmaverick

  • Posts: 87
Re: Now using this primer
« Reply #5 on: October 20, 2017, 09:55 PM »
We are talking about a primer not a finish coat
Kem Aqua also has a primer called Surfacer, I use it prior to finish.
I believe the poster has used it also and wondering the differences.

Offline JCLP

  • Posts: 740
Re: Now using this primer
« Reply #6 on: October 21, 2017, 07:01 AM »
How was cleanup? What did you use to clean the gun and stuff?

Where do you purchase it (local or online)?
Cleaned up with warm water beautifully. Actually easier then the waterborne paint I have been spraying. Lenmar is owned by Benjamin Moore. You can probably get your local dealer to order some in if they don't have stock.

JC

Offline antss

  • Posts: 1432
Re: Now using this primer
« Reply #7 on: October 21, 2017, 08:42 AM »
Is this a unique formula , or is it just something outa the standard BM recipe book put in a Lenmar package ?

I've never heard of Lenmar before now.
« Last Edit: October 21, 2017, 04:50 PM by antss »

Offline tjbnwi

  • Posts: 5306
  • Cedar Tucky Indiana
Re: Now using this primer
« Reply #8 on: October 21, 2017, 08:55 AM »
Is this a unique formula , or is it just something outa the standard BM recipe book put in a Lenmar package ?

I've never heard of Lenamr before now.

Lenmar has been around about 50 years. That were acquired by BM about 5 years ago. Their specialty is waterborne coatings and finishes (other than what most would consider paint). I think BM acquired them to get into the waterborne lacquer market without having to do all the R&D.

Far different than a standard primer.

Tom

Offline antss

  • Posts: 1432
Re: Now using this primer
« Reply #9 on: October 21, 2017, 04:49 PM »
How long have you been using it Tom ?

Offline tjbnwi

  • Posts: 5306
  • Cedar Tucky Indiana
Re: Now using this primer
« Reply #10 on: October 21, 2017, 09:09 PM »
How long have you been using it Tom ?

I use KA+ Surfacer or KA spray fill primarily.

I've only shot one gallon of Lenmar. Worked well, my SW rep makes it almost impossible for me to change brands.

Tom

Offline Captn325

  • Posts: 2
Re: Now using this primer
« Reply #11 on: November 05, 2017, 07:52 PM »
Hello,
Long time lurker, first time poster.  I’m brand new to HVLP spraying, although I have done a lot of reading/research on the subject both here and elsewhere.  The first product I have attempted to spray is the Lenmar Duralaq Undercoater (1WB.200) that JC mentioned above.  The substrate is pre-primed baseboard that I have sanded smooth with a 120 grit sanding sponge and wiped clean.  Unfortunately, immediately after spraying, and using a raking light, I can see what I suspect is called “orange peel” texture.  It dries this way. 

I’m using the 1.8 cap set and full air, as JC mentioned above.
Wet coat film thickness measures 4mils (spec for the product is 3-5mils). 
I’m spraying inside my house – temp=73F. 
I measured the viscosity to be 14sec (Ford#4) straight out of the can. 
I’m holding the gun tip about 6”-8” away from the substrate. 

I called Fuji and the rep advised that for a 14sec (Ford#4) material, I should use the 1.0 cap set.  I tried spraying another baseboard sample with the 1.0 cap set and the results were nearly identical. I know there are a lot of variables with HVLP spraying (air, viscosity, cap set, fluid knob adjustment, distance to substrate, wet film thickness, etc.), and I'm hoping to get some advice as to what to try next. 

@JCLP,
Were you able to get this material to lay down smooth when you sprayed it? 

Any advice would be much appreciated - Thank you!

Brent

Offline tjbnwi

  • Posts: 5306
  • Cedar Tucky Indiana
Re: Now using this primer
« Reply #12 on: November 05, 2017, 08:00 PM »
How long has it been curing before that picture was taken?

Waterbornes take longer to tighten, I usually wait at least 8 hours judge the surface.

Tom

Offline Captn325

  • Posts: 2
Re: Now using this primer
« Reply #13 on: November 05, 2017, 08:12 PM »
Hello Tom,

That picture was taken 24 hours after I sprayed it. 

Brent

Offline tjbnwi

  • Posts: 5306
  • Cedar Tucky Indiana
Re: Now using this primer
« Reply #14 on: November 05, 2017, 08:31 PM »
That's not good. I've never sprayed it, so I don't know how it should react.

This may seem counterintuitive but I'd spray a lighter coat and see how it tightened. My guess is the surface is flashing off causing the problem.

Tom

Offline Jim Kirkpatrick

  • Posts: 1022
    • Jim Kirkpatrick Woodworking
Re: Now using this primer
« Reply #15 on: November 06, 2017, 12:18 PM »
I'm with Tom, that looks like you're spraying way too heavy.  In my limited experience,  primer need not be laid down heavy to allow it to flow out as paint does.  The dried primer finish can be rough to touch as it sands out smooth, very easily.  The rough surface also marks where you have not sanded yet.  Try turning down both air and material flow. 2 or 3 light passes should suffice, just until you see complete coverage then stop spraying.

I use BIN shellac based primer.  It has the consistency of 2% milk.  It's inexpensive, sticks to anything and covers old stain very well. I spray it straight out of the can, no thinning and use a 1.3 nozzle.  It dries in minutes and is easily hand sanded with a 3M 180 grit foam sanding pad.  Baby soft.
« Last Edit: November 06, 2017, 12:21 PM by Jim Kirkpatrick »