Steven in Iowa
 Offline
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA "The Great Midwest" Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 117
|
 |
« on: January 19, 2009, 11:51 PM » |
|
I have used a damp cloth to remove glue squeeze out (e.g. dados) but am still getting areas where there must have been some that penetrated and the varnish shows it up.
Do any of you put the first coat of finish on before glue up to prevent this or am I just not using a damp enough cloth? Thus far it's been on shop cabinets, but those are practice for kitchen cabinets that I don't want this happening on. Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Rookie to be sure!
|
|
|
Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.
|
|
Dovetail65
Offline
Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Feb 2008
Posts: 3864
|
|
« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2009, 12:10 AM » |
|
Sometimes I do use a sealer of shellac before glue up and it works 100%. Its cheap, its really quick and it is compatible with anything. Glue comes off even after it hardens with very little work, when the glue is still wet it come right off with a damp or even dry paper towel.. Way easier than tape.
I am lucky that I run my stuff through a drum sander after glue up so it really is not an issue to much for me anymore.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: January 20, 2009, 12:17 AM by nickao »
|
Logged
|
The one who says it can't be done should avoid interrupting the person doing it.
|
|
|
neilc
Offline
Location: chicagoland Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 694
|
|
« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2009, 12:12 AM » |
|
When I glue up, frequently I'll line the board edges with blue painters tape to catch as much of the squeeze out as possible. I've even dry assembled and then put the blue tape on and then broke down the assembly for glue-up.
I've also used glue sparingly and then a chisel to clean the small bead of glue that does form as soon as it skins over. Finally, I'll use a damp rag, but always make sure to get as much off as possible and then sand as close to the edge as possible. You can also wipe down the piece with mineral spirits and it will highlight some of the glue splotches. In the end, use care and use glue sparingly to prevent too much squeeze out and you'll find you can beat the glue with varying methods of work.
neil
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Overtime
Offline
Location: Eastern Iowa Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 265
Eastern Iowa USA
|
|
« Reply #3 on: January 20, 2009, 12:22 AM » |
|
Sometimes I will dry assemble and put some 1" blue painters tape along glue lines, then right after glue up I use a clean putty knife and scrape or scoop up the squeeze out using the flat edge and side of the knife. After removing as much as I can I lift up the tapes. Then I wrap a damp shop towel around the putty knife ( thin metal w/a little flex ) and get into corners without gouging the wood.
I have also taped off all glue mating areas and sealed then sprayed. And then glue up.
Both methods have worked well, but I prefer to the first one. They take time but well spent.
Some woods will leave a mark while others will clean up nicely and leave no marks. I like to be able to sand some more if needed but still sometimes it leave a mark.
Try to use only the right amount of glue, easy to say but not easy to do, then in a perfect world there will be a little bead of glue showing. And if you can just leave it alone for 15 -30 min, then scrape it up or off.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Patrick
|
|
|
Dovetail65
Offline
Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Feb 2008
Posts: 3864
|
|
« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2009, 01:31 AM » |
|
Darn Overtime that must take a lot of time.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
The one who says it can't be done should avoid interrupting the person doing it.
|
|
|
JayStPeter
Offline
Location: Southern MD Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 241
|
|
« Reply #5 on: January 20, 2009, 03:58 PM » |
|
I do wipe with a wet cloth if things get too messy, but prefer to wait around 20 minutes and scrape the skin off. If I know I won't be around to do that, I use poly glue. The foam scrapes off easier than fully dry PVA glue and has less effect on finish. A quick wipe with mineral spirits will show you where you may have problems before you get any finish on there. I test all my inside corners particularly and most other joints also after final sanding and before finishing.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Jay St. Peter
|
|
|
Forrest Anderson
Offline
Location: Edinburgh. Scotland Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 1072
|
|
« Reply #6 on: January 20, 2009, 08:58 PM » |
|
This will probably be old news to some, but it's new to me... I got a woodworking catalogue today and noticed for the first time mention of Titebond II Fluorescent Wood Glue. This is designed so that the glued joint can be inspected under Black Light after clean-up, and traces of remaining glue will become visible.
http://www.titebond.com/IntroPageTB.ASP?UserType=1&ProdSel=WNWhatsNewTB.aspFluorescent version of Titebond II that provides a strong initial tack and fast speed of set to reduce clamp time. It also develops bonds stronger than wood, offers excellent sandability and is unaffected by finishes. It contains a dye that, when viewed under a black light, enables woodworkers to inspect the glue line and assist in the cleanup process. It is ideal for most porous materials, is easy to use and cleans up with water.
This led me to a page that Titebond has on their website about wood glue and stains where they give tips on removing squeeze-out. Forrest |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Steven in Iowa
Offline
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA "The Great Midwest" Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 117
|
|
« Reply #7 on: January 20, 2009, 10:18 PM » |
|
Thank you for all of the replies, this got me going on some good methods which I tried out tonight. I'll know tomorrow if you guys need to knock me on the head so I pay attention. Glued the rest of the face frame on tonight, quick once over with the block plane to level everything up next, then it's varnish time. Thanks again and the Titebond link has some good stuff and is worth a read.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Rookie to be sure!
|
|
|
daves1996
Offline
Location: Boston, MA Member Since: Aug 2008
Posts: 80
I am a tool addict!
|
|
« Reply #8 on: January 21, 2009, 11:33 AM » |
|
Try using a soft plastic straw on 90 degree corners. The straw will conform to the angle and the glue goes into the straw. Then cut off the part with the glue in it with scissors and you have a new straw to use again.
Dave
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Kapex, TS75, Domino, Rotex 150, Deltex 93, CT22 and lots of accys.
|
|
|
Jesse Cloud
Offline
Location: Placitas, NM Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 1451
Festooling at the end of a dirt road in New Mexico
|
|
« Reply #9 on: January 21, 2009, 11:53 AM » |
|
I prefinish before glue when I can, for a couple of reasons - first, its much easier to get good consistent coverage on the individual parts (as opposed to trying to get that brush into corners and crevices). Secondly any squeeze out will come off much easier.
If you have to glue up first, before you finish wipe some thinner on the joints. Any squeezeout will show up just like it will when you put the finish on.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
