Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Sanding mdf.  (Read 2926 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
lambeater

Offline Offline

Location: British Columbia, Canada
Member Since: Apr 2010
Posts: 381



« on: March 10, 2012, 10:50 AM »

Morning guys, just about finished a built in for a customer but need some mdf finishing advice. Cases are all prefinished maple ply but the door and drawer fronts are mdf (customer to paint these color of wall) I need to prime and fill the mdf edges smooth. Would like some advice on finishing technique to fill the edge grain. I have been told watered down white glue works well, any other quicker ideas?.

thx
Lambeater
Logged
Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.

Chrisem

Offline Offline

Location: Hamilton, NZ
Member Since: Jan 2010
Posts: 20



« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2012, 03:47 PM »

Hi Lambeater, In my spray painting days, I used to fill MDF edges with a reasonably thick sealer prior to sanding before undercoat. The glue works very well, I've never thinned it though, squeeze it out along an edge, then spread over said edge with thumb or finger, leave to dry.

Chris
Logged
jmbfestool

Online Online

Location: UK
Member Since: Jan 2009
Posts: 5197



« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2012, 04:07 PM »

I find  ( was tip from Windmill)  using emulsion water down is very good!  No need to use any filler on the end  you give it a coat with emulsion let it go off then its really easy to give it a sand and is dead smooth.  Using emulsion is like using water down glue but doesnt go as hard so easier to sand and you have giving it a coat of paint already.   I find spray painting it is MUCH quicker for the edges cus u can get more on so when you come to sanding you dont end up sanding it back down the the MDF exposing it again.

Ill take some pictures if you want got to do some spraying of units this joiner before me made **CRAP** DeanSocial will agree with me on that!

Dean Social is with me on the job helping me out and has seen the quality of work the other joiner had done! Unsure

JMB
Logged

NEW UK members check out the new GB crew topic below

http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-connections/gb-crew/msg198248/#msg198248
Tim Raleigh

Offline Offline

Location: Oakville Canada
Member Since: Jan 2010
Posts: 1668



WWW
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2012, 04:20 PM »

I find that thinned 50/50 PVA glue works well, but if it's used at full strength some paints/primers don't adhere as well and chip off easier.
I really don't like to wait for the glue to fully dry before coating and since I am priming anyway my preference is to use a good primer/sealer and sand smooth. I add a second coat of primer if required.

Here is a cab made with MDF painted with BM Aspen White



« Last Edit: March 10, 2012, 04:23 PM by Tim Raleigh » Logged
lambeater

Offline Offline

Location: British Columbia, Canada
Member Since: Apr 2010
Posts: 381



« Reply #4 on: March 10, 2012, 04:31 PM »

Thanks for the help guys, especially Chrisem from my old Province Grin, should be able to figure it out.
thx
Lambeater
Logged
mastercabman

Offline Offline

Location: norfolk va
Member Since: Apr 2007
Posts: 1373


NORFOLK,VA


« Reply #5 on: March 10, 2012, 05:04 PM »

I tried the 50/50 glue,sealer,etc,etc...   I now just sand the edge down to 220-320 and use a good primer.The best i have used is a vinyl primer from ML Campbell.
Logged

I don't understand!?! I keep cutting it,and it's still too short!
Alan m

Offline Offline

Location: Ireland
Member Since: Aug 2010
Posts: 2996



« Reply #6 on: March 10, 2012, 05:20 PM »

iv used zinsser BIN as a primer . give it a bit of a sand first but not too much  then prime . it dries very fast as its schellacc (i think) bassed and is sanded easily. terable smell but worth it
Logged

now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
wish list
of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools


"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
jtwood

Offline Offline

Location: Joshua Tree, CA
Member Since: Apr 2011
Posts: 88


« Reply #7 on: March 10, 2012, 08:03 PM »

I have sanded and then used sealer (dewaxed) shellac to seal MDF with a lot of success.  Very easy.
Logged
Daddy-o

Offline Offline

Location: Virginia, USA
Member Since: Feb 2012
Posts: 8


« Reply #8 on: March 11, 2012, 07:41 AM »

+1 & +2!

Spraying is not an option so I've always sealed the edges with a couple of coats of shellac and then primed with BIN before painting.

Just a tip. The last cabinet I did was black, so I had the BIN tinted. Worked like a charm!

Mike
Logged
junk

Offline Offline

Location: Erin, Ontario
Member Since: Sep 2008
Posts: 279


« Reply #9 on: March 11, 2012, 08:23 AM »

I attended a spray school sponsored by ML Campbell 3 years ago and there recommendation was to sand the edges smooth with 320 grit. After first coat sand again with 320. I've been using this method since then and it works great with very little grain raise and no end grain pocking.
Logged
Alan m

Offline Offline

Location: Ireland
Member Since: Aug 2010
Posts: 2996



« Reply #10 on: March 11, 2012, 09:27 AM »

+1 & +2!

Spraying is not an option so I've always sealed the edges with a couple of coats of shellac and then primed with BIN before painting.

Just a tip. The last cabinet I did was black, so I had the BIN tinted. Worked like a charm!

Mike

what did you tint the BIN with. iv had a few jobs where using BIN brightened the colour so more coats of finish coat were needed to cover the BIN. if i could tint it a bit , it would work a lot faster
Logged

now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
wish list
of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools


"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Deansocial

Offline Offline

Location: derbyshire, uk
Member Since: Mar 2010
Posts: 1730



« Reply #11 on: March 11, 2012, 12:36 PM »

i find it doesnt take long to sand it to a decent finish before priming then it furs up alot less. if sealing then sanding i find the next coat furs it up again
Logged
Chrisem

Offline Offline

Location: Hamilton, NZ
Member Since: Jan 2010
Posts: 20



« Reply #12 on: March 12, 2012, 02:02 AM »

Chrisem from my old Province Grin

Where the Chiefs have just beaten the Crusaders, and dealt to the Blues the week before Thumbs Up     (sorry, OT)
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to: