Sand them away completely. If you see any shinny areas or dots you haven't sanded enough. If you need to use 120 grit paper. Reprime if you expose raw wood and respray the Kem Aqua.
Tim

I only can tell you orange peel problems I have had finishing.

Material too thick - add more diluent
Very fast dry - add more diluent or use one that dries slower
Too many lacquer exit from the sprayer - reduce flow

These are typical problems

I hope this will help you.

Sorry for my English.

Thanks, I did add extender, maybe add more to 10%  I will try again. My work light is pretty warm and close. Could that be a cause to dry too fast?

Is it a Tungsten, or incandescent vs. an LED light?  Kem Aqua flashes or dries very quickly and any excessive heat or direct sunlight will make it dry too fast so this could be a problem. I have found that distilled water up to 10% increases drying time and reduces striping in areas that are very warm.
Tim

By adding 10% water you are thinning the material and that you'd think would do the opposite.

Bill:
I read yur comment numerous tines and it's probably me, but I don't undersrand what you have written...please explain.

How would adding 10% water slow drying time?  I did rethink this though!  I now think it would as there is more water that needs to evaporate and would take longer.

Found this link and not sure whether will work on the cabinet. Maybe will give it a try later.

http://triumphbonneville.org/diy/how-to-correct-orange-peel-in-eastwood-rat-rod-satin-black-paint/

Hi, Tim,

What to do if exposed some of the raw wood. Do I have to start over with the whole thing or can just spray whole board or patch job? Which way is better? Thanks so much

Re prime the whole board and respray.
You get better after you have done this a couple hundred times.
Tim

I finally got a less orange peel board. I thin the material little bit more and put on between 2 and 3 mils.

Your first panel looks good to me. @tjbnwi what do you think?

I thin the material little bit more and put on between 2 and 3 mils.

How much did you thin?

How do I balance between thickness and flow？ So hard to twix all these variables.

That is the trick of spraying water bourne paint.

Does KA+ need to be @ 3mils to flow and flat？

Do what works, don't worry so much about mils.

Next step is sand more and respray ？
Should I apply thicker layer and thin more？

I don't understand? Are you referring to a second coat? The first pic you showed looks good to me.

How to find what causes it？

You might want to rebuild your gun like @JCLP.
Tim

First panel does look good. I've had KA+ take a month to tighten completely. Temp and humidity play a big role in how these products cure. After awhile you know if the pieces were sprayed properly prior to it reaching full cure.

Don't feel bad about the issues you're having. I know a finisher in Denver, which is a high desert, he can't get KA+ to apply/lay down properly. I went out there and had no issues spraying it, used his equipment.

You're missing a few variables in your thickness, flow question as it applies to application. Speed and distance play a big roll. You can have the flow slightly off and make up for it with distance and speed and vise versa. Distance has a big effect on rebound and squinty on the target. You need to understand and control the interaction of all 4 variables to get a great finish.

Use this for your reducer, do not go over 10%;

https://generalfinishes.com/professional-products/additives-miscellaneous/enduro-extender#.WIaqELGZM0o

I buy it by the gallon.

Tom

I used enduro extender to thin, but it is pretty expensive. 16fl oz is $11.

Thanks for the info. Can pls beyou share the product you used with XIM？

When things are right, do you see the paint flows like glass top (very few waves/orange peels) in a few minutes or after a while (when it is dried)?

I spray it on and it looks like a wet coating.
I can tell within an hour if it's good or if I will have to respray.
Keep going, it looks like you are getting there.
Tim

Experts-please help me diagnose the problem of my spraying skills. The first 2 pictures are spraying a sheet of glass. You can see uneven coating on it. Why is this happening? The mill is not enough or I move too fast?

The last picture looks like a glass( although not perfect like a mirror) but does it look too thick to you? Mill is above 4.

Experts-please help me diagnose the problem of my spraying skills. The first 2 pictures are spraying a sheet of glass. You can see uneven coating on it. Why is this happening? The mill is not enough or I move too fast?

The last picture looks like a glass( although not perfect like a mirror) but does it look too thick to you? Mill is above 4.

Is this with the "repaired gun"?
Can you take a picture of the nozzel again to see if it is still leaking?

Other than shouting you off by posting pictures of just sprayed finishes that are perfect, I am not sure we can help you. I suggest you find a local expert, or take some lessons/courses from someone who can show you what you are doing wrong.

Tim

Guess winter here is pretty dry with heater blowing all the time and that makes the finish dried very fast.

Hmm, maybe turn the heater off while you are painting. Could be adding to your problems.

BTW, how easy is to touch up some areas with kem aqua plus? 

Not easy. I always see areas that I have tried to touch up. I always end up sanding and re-coating.

Will next layer of coating to dissolve into the first layer?

No, waterborne acrylic based coatings do not act like traditional nitrocellulose lacquer. The layers do bond together chemically in a waterborne acrylic but do not burn in or dissolve the previous layer and become one as happens in a solvent based lacquer.

I accidentally touched the door before it is fully cured.

Ya, try not to do that.
Tim