Nate,

I was a long time user and distrubtor of Fuhr Intl finishes. They have an excellent product line with some of the best WB finishes on the market. That not withstanding, before I used them I used a product from ML Campbell called UltraStar which I liked, but the Fuhr products where better in many respects. Campbell as recently introduced a new product called Agualente which is probably the best I've used thus far.

Mirko,

Traditionally just about ever WB finish had the dreaded "bluish case" to it, it was a big problem in the beginning. Fuhr and UltraStar had a bit of a case as well, but the Fuhr 355 had a bit more. Their 250 line was very nice and had almost none. The new AGUALENTE has the best finish I've seen being most like a lacquer.



This is some MLC traditionally mahogany under Agualente.

Here are some legs as well.

Edit....

Opps Mirko,

Sorry about this, I'll re-post some new links to the pictures. I figured out what the problem is.

Joe,

I am new to spraying and just bought an Earlex 5000 HVLP.  I am told the unit works pretty nicely even though only 2 stage nad inexpensive.  It comes witgh a 2mm tip I believe.  It was sugested to me to maybe go a little smaller on the tip for waterborne finishes.  what I was wondering since the agualente is a little thicker, do you think the 2mm tip would work ok with it?  Any other tips appreciated as well.

Hey thanks Joe for the vote of confidence.  I called my dealer where I buy my tools.  There paint department sells campbell but never heard of agualente.  He's gonna call and see if he can order it in for me.  Also, I was wondering about the glossiness.  In another review, of target coatings, the writer suggests getting a step lower gloss than what you want. ie get satin if you want gloss or flat if you want satin.  Is that typical of waterborne products or maybe just an idiosyncrasy of target coatings product?

Wayne,

Here's my experience with WB:  I bought a Wagner HVLP conversion gun which is a unit that will allow high velocity low pressure from a conventional compressor.  You set your compressor to about 45 psi and the gun to around 15-20 psi before pulling the trigger.  I shot over a gallon of Minwax polycrylic on my entertainment center and got a very nice finish with a warm glow to it.  The finish was satin, not semi gloss.  The issue I had was not getting good atomization on my first attempts.  I either got a dry finish or a lot of orange peel.  After thinning the poly 10%, the finish shot much better and I pretty much eliminated the dry finish and orange peel.

Do you spray the Aqualente undiluted?  Bear in mind that the Earlex is only going to put out around 10 psi which may be taxed by thicker coatings.

Here is a post on another forum that mentions the product: 

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Considering_Waterborne_Finishes.html 

Well I ordered the agualente yesterday so I hope to try it out next week.  I will also try spraying the oil poly... then I'll decide what to do on this project.  I do need to get it finished soon...  I need to deliver it by months end.

AFM safecoat has some really nice products!
I usually brush or wipe it on, works pretty good.

Hi,
I just came across this thread. Why no mention of Target Coatings or General Finishes. Jerry Work highly recommends the Target coatings and homesteadfinishing.com recommends them both.

Eiji

Wayne,  ------ how has the Earlex worked out for you?  Anybody else here with opinions on this sprayer?

Justin

Cool Wayne -- sounds like fun.  I would like to venture into the wonderful world of spraying soon --- right now I'm doing as much "read-up" as I can.   I'm just a hobbyist so no hurry for me.  The Earlex looks nice (especially price wise) but I would hate to find out its limitations in short order ---- but some are saying that it even handles latex paints and heavier water-based finishes fairly well (with right tip).  Thanks for the update,

Justin

Quote from Dave R

"and the metal strainer screen I use on the fluid inlet of my spray gun.  The screens are brass with galvanized steel tops and bottoms.  If I leave the USL in the gun cup while waiting for the previously sprayed coating to dry enough so I can knock down any dust nibs (about 1 hour), the chemical reaction by then causes the USL in the cup to turn from white to blue."


Dave, bummer   

My Fuji has an all "nylon" screen and I have not had the issue you have.
I'm able to leave the the USL in the sprayer for as long as 8 - 10 hrs if needed with no ill effects.
My container is aluminium and so far so good on that.



My tube diameter is 3/8"
and the part is    Fuji  -  9044 Paint Strainer
It just slips on and off. Might work for ya ?

Got to keep the upper rims of the cans very clean where the lids fit.
And even still some brownish rust like residue forms (takes a while) around the inner rims. remove lid, Using a rag holding it under the lip of the can wipe and catch any crap around the rim and lid. Some may fall into the can and if I can't dab it out with a napkin or if there is lots of gunk I'll strain it.

Also find that when working from gallon cans it's a good idea to use fresh quart cans when down to 1/2 gal. Or for long term storage.

I like the Target products and my best results come when using Ultraseal WB shellac first as the seal coat prior to the clear coats.
  When using the EM8800, USL or Hybrivar (thinned) for sealer coats , I am never quite happy with the lack of grain popping effect.

So I use one of the WB shellacs always, (almost)  mostly amber at least 2 coats brushed / rubbed into grain then wiped off. I rarely spray seal coats because most woods absorb the first coat and drink it in. And it is easy to control  the tone and uniformity when brushing and wiping off. More coats - richer darker tone.
  But when the first seal coat is sprayed it is tricky to get good saturation for grain presentation with out getting surface too wet resulting in runs then more sanding. If the first seal coat is sprayed too lightly then the poors are partially closed but dry, giving a poor grain depth. The following coats just cover over a "locked in" lame start. Could be I'm not that good at spraying a seal coat or two ?

   
  Thinned Hybrivar is very good as a sealer if you really need a clear finish but I still prefer using the WB shellac first.