We have a cottage with about 3-1/2 acres of land.  Some of it is wooded, some of it is clear, with some big maples.  I get a lot of branches and debris that drops on the ground, saplings I'd like to cut back, etc.  I started thinking I could use a chainsaw to clear some of the brush and to break up some of the smaller limbs that we find.  I'm not planning on bringing any big trees down.  I have zero experience with chainsaws, but do have a knowledgeable neighbour who has offered to teach me the basics.

Can anybody recommend a few models I ought to consider ? I find the product lines confusing and am not really sure what features would be important.

p.s. When I first started looking at chainsaws, I was planning on milling some big maples with a chainsaw mill, but was told that I needed a really big saw and a lot of time to make it worthwhile.  So I scrapped that idea.

I would get:
used: Stihl 026/260, 036/361, Husqvarna 346, 365, Dolmar/Makita 5100
 
new; Stihl; 211 (not pro grade but a fantastic saw), 261,362, Husqvarna: 346xp maybe 560. Dolmar 5105

These are saws that will last forever if used right and taken care of, remember to always run mix, never straight gas them.

These are all pro grade models, not a clamshell engine design. Clamshells are like the Farmboss 290,310,390,291,311,391.

If you were to get into milling  a Stihl 660 is not a minimum, but recommended.

Thanks for the warnings and advice.  If I used a chainsaw I'd probably be wearing a faceshield, chaps, etc.  Truth is, they scare the heck out of me, but I guess a healthy dose of respect is not a bad thing.

I have a Stihl MS 391 and think it's a great saw. It is very powerful, has a 40 cm blade and consumes 20% less fuel then most other two-stroke engines. It also doesn't vibrate much which is a great pro. I'd recommend you check the specs from the Stihl website.

My 2 €cents

I have a 15 year old Husqvarna.  Works like a charm.  My dealer friend who sold it to me mentioned a while back that Husq makes a line that is built in Brazil, and is not as good as the models made in Europe.  I had a fellow offering $300 for it, and was tinkering with selling it, as I seldom need one anymore.  The one I have, it's comparable model today is around $750-$800 now (was $550 when I bought it), and the similar Brazil made ones are in the $350-$400 range.  He's been selling them for 25 years+ to the guys who work with them everyday in the bush, so I take his advice as gospel when it comes to chainsaws and generators.  He also feels they are reliably better than Stihl brand.

I have not had a problem with any of my Stihl chainsaws in over 20 years... until recently. The new ethanol laced gasoline is problematic for many of the older models. Since switching to high test gas (as recommended by my local dealer) the problems have gone away. I did have my Dad's Stihl upgraded to new fuel lines, etc, that are compatible with the new gasoline formulations. Since then, no problems. This may be both a recommendation to buy a new saw rather than used (no matter the brand, as I understand the fuel problem affects most small engines built more than a few years ago), and a tip to use the high test (93 octane) fuel, again, regardless of the brand you buy.

Good luck,

Jim Ray

The Husqvarna 346XP is a great saw, used by many pros and homeowners alike. The key to a long lasting chainsaw, or 2-stroke motor, is to buy a larger motor than your typical job will need and run it at 75% throttle, max. Don't hold the throttle wide open at all.  Doing this will double the life of any quality motor.
Any suprise a Sweed would reco' a Husky? Naw...

I've got an old Husqvarna 36 that is a light saw with a 16" bar and great for limbing and cutting smaller logs.  When I'm falling trees or milling with my "Alaskan Mill," I get out the Husky 3120XP    with a 24" or 36" bar.  It will go through a 36" cottonwood log in about 20 seconds with a sharp blade.  I like the startup decompression button that makes it easier to pull.

I've got some other Husky yard equipment that has been very reliable. 

If you are cutting brush, a bad habit I see of many users is to bring the saw in close when limbing.  not a great plan.  i have know of workers limbing their own limbs that way. always keep the saw away from your body and be careful not to cut against the way the limb wants to bend.  A pinched saw can make a quick job last for a loonnnngggggg time.  Pay attention to what others here have warned you about.

In my experience (observations type/not in my own practice), the two most dangerous tools sold/rented to the inexperienced are chainsaws #1 and extension ladders #2.  Anybody could give me a good arguement that i have them listed in the wrong order.  i have seen bad results with either tool.  Yes, if the two are used together, that can make one dead very suddenly.

You probably have seen experienced woodsmen hold a saw at their hip and yank the chord. Another not a good plan for the inexperienced.  The book says to put it on the ground and hold down with one hand while you pull the chord with the other.  Good plan.  i have been using chainsaws since they first came out to the public.  i started with a 24" Titan that weighed a ton back in the late 40's or early 50's.  nobody taught me how to use it and i made a few very lucky mistooks with that old monster.  I say "lucky mistooks" because the nature of the stupidity could have put me in the hospital or worse.  I did not get a scratch.  That is why i say lucky.  I took those mistooks as mesages from above and did not make same one twice.  I have know others not so lucky.

Just don't hurry and if something seems like it should not be done >>>>>>> DON'T
Tinker