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Author Topic: NEC 2010  (Read 3849 times)
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Guy Ashley

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Furniture & Cabinet Maker/Joiner


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« Reply #90 on: October 12, 2010, 09:19 AM »

Woodguy

I use a Sealy 25 litre compressor on jobs all the time with Prebena 16 or 18 gauge nailers. The effort of lifting it on to the job far outweighs the grief a jamming 2nd fix cordless guns.

It is relatively light and will produce 8 bar of pressure enough to fire 38mm stainless steel 16 gauge into oak without any probs at all.

Dont know if that would be sufficient for your needs.

Guy
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jmbfestool

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« Reply #91 on: October 12, 2010, 09:52 AM »

I use a compressor all the time on site.  I have 2 bostich finish gun's, one a 15 gauge & the other an 18 gauge.  I just don't like the thin nails on the cordless nailers, or are they now doing them with 15 gauge nails ?  I too am looking for the smallest compressor i can get but will still run the 15 gauge.  Sorry for jumping on the hijack JMB.

Carry on  Smile


LOL!  

Yeah you can get a cordless 15gauge nail gun
http://www.nailfastonline.co.uk/more/on/details/00107


I have a compressor but I use if for sand blasting and spray painting only at the moment!
http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?gotonode=ViewProduct&method=mViewProduct&productid=7591&productdescription=&productcode=&category=11&catgroup=112&catmicrogroup=1022&analysiscode=&requiredresults=16


Well woodguy there are only a few people like you then who use compressors on site. Is it because you have joinery inside you which rubs of onto carpentry work abit  Poke  Oh and Guy Ashley does it aswell! Its you workshop lads who like taking compressors onto site!  Dont think pure Carpenters use compressors.


JMB


« Last Edit: October 12, 2010, 09:56 AM by jmbfestool » Logged

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jvsteenb

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Location: The Netherlands
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Posts: 363


« Reply #92 on: October 12, 2010, 11:05 AM »

Quote
I kinda thought the higher speed was for metal! 

You thought right. The higher speed is necessary for metal stud - the fact that the torque is lower isn't very important, as any 4000 RPM drywall screwer will have torque to spare for wooden studs.
The higher speed ( and finer thread !! ) for metalstud are needed to puncture the stud before it can be dimpled, creating an art of "built in spring washer" in the stud, leading to erratic depth setting.
You definitely need a high speed screwer for metalstud - for wooden studs both types work, although the lower speed ones are preferred. In wood you need the coarse thread (holds better) and when screwed in at high speed, cheap drywall may get smashed as the head sinks at a very high speed - higher then with the finer thread screws. You may want to use the finer thread screws to prevent this, but you sacrifice a bit in holding power.
Ideally, you need both, but the high speed one is just a tad more universal.

Regards,

Job
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joiner1970

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Posts: 1209



« Reply #93 on: October 12, 2010, 12:05 PM »

i already have a 24 litre bostitch compressor but its 240v and not the easiest thing to move around so i only use it on private houses never on my sub-contracting side. thats my reason for getting a smaller 110v one.

jmb, i had seen that senco cordless one but senco dont know yet when its being rolled out in the UK
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jonny round boy

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Location: West Yorkshire, UK
Member Since: Jul 2007
Posts: 2093



« Reply #94 on: October 12, 2010, 12:21 PM »

That one at screwfix is a new model that no one else is selling yet very strange. I went to the D&M tool show saturday to cheer myself up and noticed the Bostitch guys had one they were using to demo nailers outside but it was in Stanley yellow not the orange and it wasnt for sale. When i quizzed the guy he said yeah its replacing the roll cage one they sell now it is a newer model. I also notice SIP sell the same compressor i suppose they are all made by some company in Italy.




Just had a look at that one from Screwfix - does anyone have any idea on the overall dimensions of it? Never did get round to building my compressor-systainer...
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woodguy7

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Location: wick, scotland
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« Reply #95 on: October 12, 2010, 12:57 PM »

I used to have a paslode finish nailer but talk about useless.  Slightest hint of cold or damp & the blasted thing wouldn't work.  No problem with the air powered ones, they are bullet proof.  Well when i say bullet proof, i haven't actually tested it.  Might get the Browning 12 gauge out & try it  Wink

Woodguy.
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
joiner1970

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Location: London, England
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« Reply #96 on: October 12, 2010, 01:23 PM »

hi Jonny, that one is too big for a systainer im afraid you need the senco 1010 and you have to cut a few bits off it for it to fit but I have seen one in a systainer. you can only run small nailers off it though.
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joiner1970

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Location: London, England
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« Reply #97 on: October 12, 2010, 01:24 PM »

I used to have a paslode finish nailer but talk about useless.  Slightest hint of cold or damp & the blasted thing wouldn't work.  No problem with the air powered ones, they are bullet proof.  Well when i say bullet proof, i haven't actually tested it.  Might get the Browning 12 gauge out & try it  Wink

Woodguy.

i use the dewalt ones and they are great just a bit big the guy i sub off has two.
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Deansocial

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Location: derbyshire, uk
Member Since: Mar 2010
Posts: 1730



« Reply #98 on: October 12, 2010, 01:40 PM »

i use a 35 gallon bostich compressor i bought with a 1st fix bostitch gun which cost 300 for the pair from dyna tools. Then bought a 16g 18g and 18g stapler for £130 all bostich
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jmbfestool

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Posts: 5194



« Reply #99 on: November 07, 2010, 03:58 PM »

Well I used my Sword yesterday for a full day! First time!  It came in really handy it was a small roof extension so only 10rafters and then diminishing jack rafters into the adjacent roof and ladder rack on the gable end and valley.  He said can we get the old roof stripped together and then I fit the new roof all by 3 oclock! So he could felt,lath and tile the roof before it gets dark which is like 5 o'clock!

This included Fascia and gable end and bolting rafters to old roof and bolting braces! Aswell as needed to work out getting the roof at the right height!  As he had the wall plate set to high!

I was still bolting up as he was felting over the top of me!

Well we finished it at 5.10 with tools packed! It was dark I was worried I had forgotten a tool! I hope I haven't any way!

Was a rush I tell ya and I didnt get to do the roof like I would of liked I wouldn't say bodged but not to my standers.

Well I could not of done it with out the Sword!  It made light work for cutting the rafters and jacks!







Oh I had a play with the Protool auto Feed gun!   I could tell a difference straight away with this 18V compared to the 12V  I found the 12v was easier to scew screws into wood as it has a higher RPM it screws them in quickly so your not pushing the Gun for very long on each screw so its less tiring when using above your head plus its lighter which helps!  

I found with my new 18V Protool Auto Feed Gun it screws the screws in slower so you have to push the drill slightly longer!
Its hardly anything but when your doing a lot it adds up a bit on your arms!!
I still prefer the 18V as I said its only slightly longer but I think being able to use my 18V festool batteries on the Protool gun and use my Protool 18V batteries on my festools is a big Bonus!

Also I noticed with the 12v when I tried screwing a piece of chipboard to 4x2 the screws just sat flush even though I had the settings on the drill at maximum depth.
With the 18V it easily sunk the screws in and it was only set at half the depth.  I think this would be better for fixing plaster boards with longer screws into oak.  I think the 18v for me is the better option as I find it will come in for doing flooring for easy screwing ply or chipboard the floor joists or studding.

Protool Auto Feed Gun


You can see in the Video! Its fully automatic in forward but not in reverse. So no need to pull the trigger this is easier for when you just cant quite reach but also saves a lot of battery power because your only running the drill when needed.


JMB
« Last Edit: November 07, 2010, 04:21 PM by jmbfestool » Logged

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Deansocial

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Location: derbyshire, uk
Member Since: Mar 2010
Posts: 1730



« Reply #100 on: November 07, 2010, 05:40 PM »

Well I used my Sword yesterday for a full day! First time!  It came in really handy it was a small roof extension so only 10rafters and then diminishing jack rafters into the adjacent roof and ladder rack on the gable end and valley.  He said can we get the old roof stripped together and then I fit the new roof all by 3 oclock! So he could felt,lath and tile the roof before it gets dark which is like 5 o'clock!

This included Fascia and gable end and bolting rafters to old roof and bolting braces! Aswell as needed to work out getting the roof at the right height!  As he had the wall plate set to high!

I was still bolting up as he was felting over the top of me!

Well we finished it at 5.10 with tools packed! It was dark I was worried I had forgotten a tool! I hope I haven't any way!

Was a rush I tell ya and I didnt get to do the roof like I would of liked I wouldn't say bodged but not to my standers.

Well I could not of done it with out the Sword!  It made light work for cutting the rafters and jacks!







Oh I had a play with the Protool auto Feed gun!   I could tell a difference straight away with this 18V compared to the 12V  I found the 12v was easier to scew screws into wood as it has a higher RPM it screws them in quickly so your not pushing the Gun for very long on each screw so its less tiring when using above your head plus its lighter which helps!  

I found with my new 18V Protool Auto Feed Gun it screws the screws in slower so you have to push the drill slightly longer!
Its hardly anything but when your doing a lot it adds up a bit on your arms!!
I still prefer the 18V as I said its only slightly longer but I think being able to use my 18V festool batteries on the Protool gun and use my Protool 18V batteries on my festools is a big Bonus!

Also I noticed with the 12v when I tried screwing a piece of chipboard to 4x2 the screws just sat flush even though I had the settings on the drill at maximum depth.
With the 18V it easily sunk the screws in and it was only set at half the depth.  I think this would be better for fixing plaster boards with longer screws into oak.  I think the 18v for me is the better option as I find it will come in for doing flooring for easy screwing ply or chipboard the floor joists or studding.

Protool Auto Feed Gun

You can see in the Video! Its fully automatic in forward but not in reverse. So no need to pull the trigger this is easier for when you just cant quite reach but also saves a lot of battery power because your only running the drill when needed.


JMB



did you gang cut your rafters?

that auto mode looks awsome
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jmbfestool

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Location: UK
Member Since: Jan 2009
Posts: 5194



« Reply #101 on: November 07, 2010, 08:01 PM »

Well I used my Sword yesterday for a full day! First time!  It came in really handy it was a small roof extension so only 10rafters and then diminishing jack rafters into the adjacent roof and ladder rack on the gable end and valley.  He said can we get the old roof stripped together and then I fit the new roof all by 3 oclock! So he could felt,lath and tile the roof before it gets dark which is like 5 o'clock!

This included Fascia and gable end and bolting rafters to old roof and bolting braces! Aswell as needed to work out getting the roof at the right height!  As he had the wall plate set to high!

I was still bolting up as he was felting over the top of me!

Well we finished it at 5.10 with tools packed! It was dark I was worried I had forgotten a tool! I hope I haven't any way!

Was a rush I tell ya and I didnt get to do the roof like I would of liked I wouldn't say bodged but not to my standers.

Well I could not of done it with out the Sword!  It made light work for cutting the rafters and jacks!







Oh I had a play with the Protool auto Feed gun!   I could tell a difference straight away with this 18V compared to the 12V  I found the 12v was easier to scew screws into wood as it has a higher RPM it screws them in quickly so your not pushing the Gun for very long on each screw so its less tiring when using above your head plus its lighter which helps!  

I found with my new 18V Protool Auto Feed Gun it screws the screws in slower so you have to push the drill slightly longer!
Its hardly anything but when your doing a lot it adds up a bit on your arms!!
I still prefer the 18V as I said its only slightly longer but I think being able to use my 18V festool batteries on the Protool gun and use my Protool 18V batteries on my festools is a big Bonus!

Also I noticed with the 12v when I tried screwing a piece of chipboard to 4x2 the screws just sat flush even though I had the settings on the drill at maximum depth.
With the 18V it easily sunk the screws in and it was only set at half the depth.  I think this would be better for fixing plaster boards with longer screws into oak.  I think the 18v for me is the better option as I find it will come in for doing flooring for easy screwing ply or chipboard the floor joists or studding.

Protool Auto Feed Gun

You can see in the Video! Its fully automatic in forward but not in reverse. So no need to pull the trigger this is easier for when you just cant quite reach but also saves a lot of battery power because your only running the drill when needed.


JMB



did you gang cut your rafters?

that auto mode looks awsome


Yes I did! I took 2 sash clamps with me to hold them together.  With the valley cuts I layed 3 flat at a time and moved them so they ran in line and cut them like that instead I couldnt cut them in a gang with the double angle. I suppose I could of stack 3 and done the same maybe.   


The auto mode is a cool feature aswell as the easy removable  auto feed it just clips on and pulls off.  Other I have used you need to press a release button  or undo a screw like the Makita which is not as quick.


JMB
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jmbfestool

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Member Since: Jan 2009
Posts: 5194



« Reply #102 on: December 19, 2010, 10:58 AM »

Dean!!


Protool have brought out another SWORD

It cuts 330!   I thought I would let you know! I dont know if they do a 110v. What you would have to do is get the wood delivered to your house cut them at you place and then take them onto the job haahaa!!  Or get a RCD?!  Or just me and you just go round and kill all the health and safety idiots!

http://www.protool.de/Produkte/Seiten/Produktvergleich.aspx?foc=pt_schwertsaegen_8028


I have looked at the spec!  Its the same as mine 220 soooooo I am assuming I can just buy the bar and remove the knife and replace it with the larger one! I hope so any way! I am going to find out Monday!



Also the Angle Grinder which fits onto the Guide rail  this one : http://special.tts-protool.com/dustfree/index.php?cc=de&lc=de

WELL they sell it with just the case! So I THINK but im not sure! you can fit other angle grinders to the case. The case is only £110 so not that bad its another thing I wanna find out monday!  If so I can buy that and use my angle grinder I already own instead of buying more money on another one (protool one)

Just the case for dust extraction.
http://www.tooltechnic.fi/tuotteet/?product=3790


JMB
http://www.professionaltool.co.uk/new-products
« Last Edit: December 19, 2010, 11:02 AM by jmbfestool » Logged

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