I also love Lie-Nielsen tools, and have several of them. The quality is top notch.

On my wish list is the #51 shooting board plane, anyone here have any experience with this plane, or the original Stanley #51?

This is what I ordered my scraper plane for.

i) Inlay running perpendicular and parallel to the grain.
ii) A little bit of glue squeeze-out here and there.
iii) Ribbon sapele with a wild grain pattern.

I don't think you can tackle this with any sander, or bench plane. And since I have eight of these legs inlaid on all four sides, a scraper plane seemed to be the best option.

I hope this isn't referring to me in a kilt again  ...and incidentally, only my mother calls me Richard 

Rick

Lucky for you. In which case I'll happily agree; I'd like to see more of that piece, if possible Richard? It looks lovely.

Richard, very good video even without your legs.

Still works.  Must be AINAO.

 

Richard:
Great video! Thanks.
Can we see more of your table project?

Tim

I agree Richard, this was an excellent video that I found genuinely interesting. I'd love to see more.

Cheers,
Rick

On the Lie-Nielsen blade in my antique Stanley 112 I do NOT use a burr/hook edge.  I have a hook on the old Kunz blade I use for rough work.   You can add a burr to increase the depth of scraping for rough work such as glue removal.

Thanks, guys, I really appreciate the remarks. I have to finish the inlay on the legs and veneer the aprons next which should be really challenging. I will take some pictures as I go.

One thing to note about the scraper plane is that it seemed to require much more frequent sharpening than a normal plane blade. I am not sure if this is because sapele is a harder wood to work than my usual walnut or cherry, or because the steeper blade angle mean it dulls more quickly, but once the blade becomes dull the plane becomes hard to work and the finish is rougher.

But it is fast. I did all 32 faces in just a couple of hours. I don't think I could have done it as fast with a rotex going from 100 to 150 to 180 to 220 grit, although my arms would have ached a little less the morning after!

Woodguy, according to Lie Nielsen, a hook is optional. They say that if you do put a hook on the blade, you will take a more aggressive cut which is not what I wanted in this case. You will also have more sharpening to do every time as you will have to take off the hook, maybe drop down to 1000 grit to clean up the blade geometry and then hone at 4000 and 8000 grit. I just rehoned the blade at 8000 every time. Took just a few passes each time and the edge is good again.

Richard.

Richard, hopefully Shane shows this thread to Christian who asks you to be a guest instructor every so often at their training facilities.  This is a good sales pitch for them since it shows how someone can create such beautiful pieces with traditional hand tools and Festool products.  I think Brice should be forced to be the first student since he just LOVES working with hand tools. 

Lookin' good Richard!
Made in Canada eh!
I like that vacuum press, judging from the results it looks like it works pretty well.
Thanks for the update.
Tim

Richard, that is looking really good.  A couple of questions,

The inlay that goes around the top of the leg, did you make it or buy it ?
You say you sanded the top inlay.  Were you not worried about cross contamination of dust from the dark to the light ?  Was this not the point of the scraper plane ?

Not criticizing, just wondered why.  Looking forward to seeing this one progress.

Woodguy



Oh, I'm sure Rick is fine with you hijacking his thread 

Richard,

It would be nice to see a close-up of the store bought banding.  Are you fully satisfied with it?  I am about to set up the jigs to make my own banding.  Thicker parts will be solid ebony and holly but the the thin black and white will be black dyed pearwood veneer and white sycamore veneer.  It just drives me nuts that at least 2/3 of the glued-up blank will be turned in to sawdust when the table saw is used to cut individual strips from the blank.

Also, when dealing with black and white inlaid strips next to each other, a spit coat of shellac concentrating it on the banding strips before sanding with the ETS 125 and above average vacuum suction will usually eliminate cross contamination.  The sanding will remove the shellac which is probably what you were going to use for a finish anyway.

Gary