Author Topic: Greenwood Spoon Carving Advice  (Read 1488 times)

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Offline dupe

  • Posts: 63
Greenwood Spoon Carving Advice
« on: January 12, 2018, 08:23 AM »
 I recently got into spoon carving, have about a dozen or so under my belt.  All of them until now have been carved from cypress which was dried for years and years.  I’ve seen videos of people scooping out potato chips with spoon knives and thought ‘that must be greenwood’ to get that result .  I’ve invested in a quality hook knife from Deepwood ventures which I can’t recommend enough compared to those cheap Mora knives.  I was always under the impression that greenwood would be easier to carve with the final finishing to be done once it’s dried a bit?

The arborist were working outside our office and I took advantage of scoring a few freshly cut crooks from Bradford pear trees, the arborist stating it  to be relatively soft wood.  Well turns out it’s harder than red oak on the Janka scale ... this stuff is a bear to carve and my knives are razor sharp and maintained through the work piece. There’s no getting around that this is a tough species, but my question is, are my assumption‘s of greenwood carving correct or is there such a thing as being too wet?  Do you follow certain time table or tactic when starting and finishing greenwood spoons? Thanks in advance273645-0

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Offline Rob-GB

  • Posts: 1078
Re: Greenwood Spoon Carving Advice
« Reply #1 on: January 12, 2018, 10:58 PM »
I have carved a few spoons and a Kuksa so can say hand on heart carving them green is the way to go.
Dry wood is very hard on both your hands and tool edges.
I do all the roughing out with an axe, speeds up the process, then finish with knives.
Some people like a tooled surface look to the spoons others let them dry up a day or so then sand or scrape to a smooth finish.
Last post on this link shows some of my early work.

Rob.
Problem? No such thing! Only a solution waiting to be found:- RJ

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