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Author Topic: How do I pick a Spokeshave?  (Read 7343 times)
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jacko9

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« Reply #30 on: May 08, 2012, 12:09 PM »

This is my go to Spokeshave.  I kinda remember having to do a little fitting of the blade bed when I first bought this tool and it has been heavily used (and abused) for many years making table legs, smoothing over bandsawn edges, etc. but, it still cuts vibration free smoothly every time.  The blade is almost 1/4" thick and hollow ground on the back.  It's a bi-metal forged blade that holds its edge a very long time.


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« Last Edit: May 08, 2012, 12:11 PM by jacko9 » Logged
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RonWen
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« Reply #31 on: May 08, 2012, 12:47 PM »

I don't mean this as a put down at all, but I wouldn't wait for a project to start practicing with those draw knives.  They are great tools, but you have to master subtle techniques.  That same blade can hog out huge wedges of wood or make gossamer shavings, depending on exactly how you approach the wood.  I don't use them that often and I always benefit from half a hour of playing around to regain the muscle memory.

I might take it as a put down if I found that you are a master such as Chris Wong otherwise I take it as advice.

Jack09, What a wonderful Japanese tool -- I notice it's a style that doesn't accept a wooden wedge to fix the iron but rather a precisely fitted pocket.  I can see why it probably makes your other spoke shaves continue to rest unused on the shelf.
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jacko9

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« Reply #32 on: May 08, 2012, 01:46 PM »

I don't mean this as a put down at all, but I wouldn't wait for a project to start practicing with those draw knives.  They are great tools, but you have to master subtle techniques.  That same blade can hog out huge wedges of wood or make gossamer shavings, depending on exactly how you approach the wood.  I don't use them that often and I always benefit from half a hour of playing around to regain the muscle memory.

I might take it as a put down if I found that you are a master such as Chris Wong otherwise I take it as advice.

Jack09, What a wonderful Japanese tool -- I notice it's a style that doesn't accept a wooden wedge to fix the iron but rather a precisely fitted pocket.  I can see why it probably makes your other spoke shaves continue to rest unused on the shelf.

Ron,

The blade fits into the body with a slight tap on the top and you can adjust the cut pretty finely.  When you want to remove the blade put your thumb on the blade and tap the back until it releases.

After years of frustration with some of my wooden Japanese hand planes I got into a conversation with one of the old timers at Japan Woodworker and he told me that on the cap irons on the Japanese hand planes were installed only for export market.  After I took off all of the cap irons my hand planes performed perfectly.

Jack
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MarkF

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« Reply #33 on: May 08, 2012, 01:54 PM »

Earlier in this thread the request for sharpening was made.  I use a wooden jig to hold the blade like the one on page 7 of the instructions for LV LA SS instructions
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Chris Has Flair

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« Reply #34 on: May 08, 2012, 02:28 PM »

I might take it as a put down if I found that you are a master such as Chris Wong otherwise I take it as advice.

Me?  A master?
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Chris Wong
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If it bothers you that the chair [you are building] is askew, just go to you local furniture store and look at chairs until you feel better. – Brian Boggs
RonWen
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« Reply #35 on: May 08, 2012, 02:41 PM »

I might take it as a put down if I found that you are a master such as Chris Wong otherwise I take it as advice.

Me?  A master?

 Smile
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