With the ruler trick I don't see a need to hone on each grit. I use a 16,000 shapton as my final stone, around 1 micron size is where I aim for most of my tools final edge, and if there is no micro bevel from either grinding it away or it is a new tool I may take a couple of swipes on a 1,000 grit stone. However, the shaptons cut so fast that if you take 10 or so swipes I get a bevel on the 16,000. I move the tool forward and backward as to push the blades metal into the cutting edge making it a stronger. If you only pull or move side to side you don't get as strong of an edge. This is why when I sharpen I also go forwards and back.
For those that have a polished back I would not take that to any grit that is lower than the final polish on the tool. This is where it is so important, in my view, that you have a flat back. I should clarify you don't necessarily have to have a completely flat back, IE a japanese style chisel, but you have to have the area near the tip of the tool flat so that you can remove the burr. I put the tool down heal to toe then move the tool backwards removing the burr. Then proceed to move the tool forward and back ten or so times. If the tool was extremely worn you can also take the tool to a soft wood, I have basswood around all the time, and run the tools cutting edge through the corner of the wood where long grain meets end grain. Then just hone the tool again on your finest grit. This conditions the edge further and should help last a while before sharpening.
Not sure if was clear from the first post I made but I don't just use the final stone twice if there was a nick or new tool. I actually go through my entire sharpening process twice. I sharpen free hand for almost everything so that takes maybe 2 minutes. Also, once I have the edge I want I try to never remove it. Here is what I mean. For a bench chisel here is my standard operation. I hollow grind at 25 degrees then I put a secondary bevel on slightly above that with a 1,000 shapton. Then I put a tertiary bevel on around 30 degrees with the 16,000 shapton. Then when I go to resharpen I only use the 1,000 shapton a couple of strokes to shrink the tertiary bevel down to a small size but not gone. Then I go back to 16,000 stone and hone the tertiary bevel which goes quickly because l reduced the size with the 1,000 grit stone. Now I have a great edge and when the secondary bevel gets too large I go back to the grinder and remove the material but not the cutting edge so I don't have to start all over again.
The modern steels on good chisels and irons are very strong and can hold up to this but some tools with softer steel you may have to change the cutting angle higher.
Hope this helps.