Hi, Tom,
Stock is all planed at the same time, so it's the same. I use a digital DW 735, too - but I also run all the stock for the cabinet through in one session, working down to .75"
Sommerfeld sells a gauge that I use to do the initial setup on the rails, and he recommends NOT using a sled - just push the wood through with a push block attached to a piece of wood as a backup - this works surprisingly well avoiding tearout at the end. I have a Woodpecker's sled, but haven't used it for this task.
I've tried to be consistent on tightening the bit with the rubber grommet inserted, AND I do a test cut to check the fit, and it seems ok, but when I assemble things, most of the joints are just a bit off. I did a few doors without the rubber grommet, just trying to manually line things up - the results are about the same with or without the grommet. You would think that if the cuts line up in a test cut, it HAS to line up in the joint, but whatever error is effectively doubled as you put it together (I think). What I DIDN'T do, that you suggest, is doing a test joint fit with the stiles... I was just testing the way the bit lined up with the cut. Imadufus...
I suspect some of the issue also could be with my router table. I am using a Next Wave Ready-to-Rout/Ready-to-Lift CNC motor-powered router table/fence (with a digital height/distance input pad). While it's VERY cool and slick, and generally works really well, I am NOT impressed with the flimsy table inserts that go around the bit - they're thin metal, and the sizes aren't as good as I'm used to in my old Woodpecker table. There should be another insert that more closely matches the bit size - there's too much wide open space between the insert and the edge of the bit, and I wonder if that lack of support is causing some of my issue. I WAS able to fit a sliding sacrificial fence to support the bit profile on the fence, though. (I know - I'm sometimes too high-tech for my own good).
Sanding IS done with an ETS-125/3. If I really need to get feisty I can use my 150/5. I started with 180 Granat but found it was too fine for that much wood removal so I went down to 120 then worked back up to 220.
So, on my next doors, I'll cut the first parts, then more carefully test fit the matching styles with the rails...
Thanks!
Larry