The skew rabbet plane is another Veritas workhorse in my collection -- I actually have a pair! They are great for rabbeting, raised paneling, and coopering work.
* For the volume of work, do you think the plane was efficient, or were you just enjoying the satisfaction of hand tools?
Since this was my first use of the Combo Plane, I wanted to "stress test" every component of it and so I ran it through all the project members for hours. I would use this plane for selective moulding and beading work rather than as a replacement of my router bits. However, for small amounts of work, I think it is quicker to do it with this plane, without test cuts.
* Do the depth of cut comments apply to the reeding blades, or just the flat blades? My guess from your pics is that it applies to the reeding blades.
Light cuts, as long as they are not too light, are my preference for the plow and combo plane. You have better control of the plane as you don't have to force your way through. This applies to all joinery planes.
* I assume that you're happy with the results - consistent depth and little to no tear-out?
Because I have used the Veritas plow (grooving, dadoing, beading, and T&G) for years, I am familiar with how the Combo Plane would behave even though I never used it before.
I have had very little tear-outs overall, and the tear-outs happened only because I didn't bother to turn the plane around (to do that, you change the fence to the other side). I haven't checked every piece yet (I would do that after trying out the Stanley 45), but they could be easily fixed, if necessary, by light sanding, or running those sections with a back-bevel cutter. The beading cutter also seen in one of the photos is sharpened with a back bevel, an idea gleaned from Australian woodworker Derek Cohen.
About the depth, I usually cut the profile slightly below the surface so it won't get pressed flat during the clamping process. The depth stops of the Combo Plane worked as designed.
My habit (with the plow and now the Combo) is to first set the stop to cut the profile flush with the surface and then reset the stop to cut the profile slightly below in the final pass. Of course, you can do it in just one single depth stop setting.
* Looks very nice to me. Please show the finished project when you're done.
Will do. Thanks for your interest.
