Author Topic: six-point socket's tidbits of Home Improvement, small projects and other stuff.  (Read 49856 times)

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six-point socket

  • Guest
Hi all,

I thought I start a thread to collect all of my smaller projects, small day to day tasks and so on.


So I posted some tool reviews and now I think it's time to show some of the stuff I have done over time. Please keep in mind that I'm not a professional by any means, I do not offer services or sell stuff of any kind to 3rd parties - everything I do is solely for my personal projects.

Preface to this is as follows: I was remodeling my basement and put tiling on all floors, to gain space I moved the doors out - they had to be cut anyway. You will notice that this is a pretty old and cheapish door, the problem in my basement is that not 2 doors come at the same size - they are all different. Since these doors serve no real purposes for me I decided against having new ones build. Then, after moving the doors a few times around I left one standing upright by accident - of course a little wind came up and blew that door right to the ground. Of course it didn't fell flat to the ground but into something pointy that destroyed a nice section of the door leaf.

Taking into consideration what I wrote above - I couldn't simply buy a new one - and if I had someone custom build it for me, I would have wanted all doors to look alike. So I decided to repair it myself - after all, it's just a basement room door.

Stupid me didn't take a picture of the damaged door leaf, so we start with a picture where I had already cut out the damaged portion and put in a piece of MDF. The cut was made with a Multicutter and I glued in a support structure made from wood dowels for the little piece of MDF.



Next I applied wood filler



Then started the process of sanding. (Of course I used a dust extractor during sanding)



more sanding



And then the final layer of paint.



Personally I think this turned out pretty well, not so "Quick and dirty" after all and might be an Idea if you face a problem similar to mine.

During normal lighting you won't see no see the formerly affected portion - if you search for it under direct lighting you can find a fine line on the right side.

Kind regards,
Oliver
« Last Edit: October 31, 2015, 11:50 AM by SRSemenza »

Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.


six-point socket

  • Guest
Don't know where to post 'em, so I'll add them here. Some pictures from today. (Installing some Kupa pipe, new outlet...)







Kind regards,
Oliver
« Last Edit: September 19, 2015, 04:36 PM by six-point socket »

six-point socket

  • Guest
Still don't know where, or even if I should little pictures like this, but anyway.

Installed a new outlet for a stand mixer, used the CXS to drill through the tiles, then the Bosch to drill into the wall, and then again the CXS to fasten the outlet's screws. The other stuff was used for the electrical work that had to be done.



Kind regards,
Oli-bakingsnickerdoodles-ver

six-point socket

  • Guest
So here are a few pictures from my basement renovation earlier this year.

The room serves as dry-food storage and additionally houses a freezer and a 2nd fridge.

First I wanted to make the very ugly insulation of some remaining heating pipes disappear, secondly I wanted more light in the room.





Love working outdoors, even well before spring.



Not so easy when you have to work around a running fridge and freezer



Almost done.



Kind regards,
Oliver

Online Cheese

  • Posts: 3478
Looks good Oliver, huge improvement.  [thumbs up]

Are those recessed lights LED's and if so who makes them? They seem nice and thin and seem to produce a lot of light.

Liebherr...that brand just became available locally about 2-3 years ago.

six-point socket

  • Guest
Hi Cheese,

thanks! :)

Honestly, I have no idea who the manufacturer of those recessed lights, or better, the "housing" is. I had them lying around from another project. I originally put them in a self made wooden holder to light up a wall in my home theater from behind a couch. When I remodeled that room, I went for a professional solution but never threw the lights away, thought I could use them. Turns out to be true, so I used them for my basement renovation/remodeling.

The lamp/illuminant itself is indeed LED. It's manufactured by Osram -> LED STAR MR16 35 36° 5 W/827 GU5.3 http://www.osram.com/osram_com/products/led-technology/lamps/professional-led-reflector-lamps/parathom-mr16/index.jsp

Fit's all standard housings, but need's quite a bit of height.

Kind regards,
Oliver

six-point socket

  • Guest
During basement remodeling I had just finished the installation of a new light in one of the basement's hallways and basically all I was left to do with was cleaning two old outlets.



Of course, that would have been to easy. Basically out of nowhere, the announcement of a new hallway cupboard came from my significant other.

So the light had to travel to the ceiling above. Since I didn't know if there were any additional wires in that wall (it has outlets on the other side, too...) I started to search for live wires and safe places for my pipe clamps. You can also see a small, although purely "optical", mistake I made. I should have drilled a hole in the backside of that small junction box, instead of getting the existing wires (power supply) in from above. Would have been a cleaner look.



Then moved the light to the ceiling.



Kind regards,
Oliver
« Last Edit: November 01, 2015, 03:25 PM by six-point socket »

Online tjbnwi

  • Posts: 5168
  • Cedar Tucky Indiana
Next time you have to do a surface mount raceway look at using Wiremold.

Tom

six-point socket

  • Guest
Did a quick search on Wiremold - definitely an interesting product, legrand seems to have quite a few nice products! I will consider it if I ever have to install a visible raceway outside my basement. (I'm not a big fan of visible raceways...) Do you now if Wiremold/legrand stuff is rated for use with 240V?

Kind regards,
Oliver

six-point socket

  • Guest
Found another picture taken while setting up that cupboard.



Kind regards,
Oliver


Online tjbnwi

  • Posts: 5168
  • Cedar Tucky Indiana
Did a quick search on Wiremold - definitely an interesting product, legrand seems to have quite a few nice products! I will consider it if I ever have to install a visible raceway outside my basement. (I'm not a big fan of visible raceways...) Do you now if Wiremold/legrand stuff is rated for use with 240V?

Kind regards,
Oliver

All are rated for line voltage except the low voltage line of Wiremold.

Tom

six-point socket

  • Guest
Thanks! :)

Kind regards,
Oliver

six-point socket

  • Guest
Hiring a pro.

So after installing sheetrock myself in the storage-room, I decided I would hire a pro to do the basement's hallways. What I can say is that I will be much more careful who I'm hiring in future.

Here's one of the episodes that left rather amused, than actually angry.

So, I told the pro that I would install 2 switches, 2 single switches. I drilled corresponding holes into the wall to make additional space for my installation needs. (I would have marked the center of the holes I need on the sheetrock, but my pro insisted that wasn't necessary, he knows how to meet the holes...)

Well, the result:



Of course, he didn't meet the holes and also didn't leave enough space between the holes for two single switches.

I rectified this myself after all was done and the guy out the house.



Kind regards,
Oliver


« Last Edit: November 01, 2015, 04:20 PM by six-point socket »

Online Cheese

  • Posts: 3478
Hi Oliver,
I have a question for you. Is it common in Germany/Europe to use the screw barrier terminals to connect wires together? As per your picture in a previous post.

232117-0

In the states, we've used wire nuts for years and increasingly I am now using the Wago push-in connectors or Wago lever connectors.

232119-1

232121-2

232123-3

six-point socket

  • Guest
Hi Cheese,

There are a couple different answers to that. :)

If you, like me, life in an old house built in 60'ties you will encounter a lot of those screw barrier terminals. It is what was used.

Today, and I'm speaking solely for Germany here, those screw barrier terminals are solely permitted for the installation/connection of lights. (Hence their German name "Luesterklemme/Lüsterklemme" "Luester" or "Lüster" = chandelier and "Klemme" = connector) (And as you can see in that picture, I installed a light :) ) The, lets call it basic variant of these screw barrier terminals is not rated for higher amps. (Only between 2,5 - 6 Amps which is suitable for lighting, as the lamp/illuminant limits the drawn amps)

Now it get's tricky because basically the same product, although rated for higher amps, exists under a different German name: "Dosenklemme" -> "Dose" = junction box "Klemme" = connector. Those may be used for other applications than lighting.

Personally I install lighting with the correct screw barrier terminal and make sure no wires are exposed/screws are fitted correctly. I rarely use the the junction-box type for other applications, if I do, same caution is applied as with the others.

As you, I do prefer Wago connectors for all lasting connections. If installed correctly, they offer the crucial benefit of having no exposed parts that could conduct electricity/current whereas screw barrier terminals (under certain circumstances) do.

I'd say, nowadays Wago is far more common than screw barrier terminals (except for lighting). And Besides safety, they are quicker and easier to install, too. All pros I know, use them - so do I.

I've seen wire nuts, but have not found one in my house.

Kind regards,
Oliver
« Last Edit: November 02, 2015, 10:55 AM by six-point socket »

Online Cheese

  • Posts: 3478
Thanks for the answer Oliver, it seems that even the rules and regulations in Germany can be dodgy at times. [eek]

So the Lüsterklemme and the Dosenklemme look alike but have different amperage ratings. Are there any exterior markings to differentiate the 2 connectors?

Why wouldn't you just use Wagos on lighting instead of the Lüsterklemme?

six-point socket

  • Guest
Oh, absolutely  [eek] [scared] ;)

Well, foremost it's habit and convenience. Convenience because a lot of the wiring coming out of the walls and ceilings is pretty short, because they have been cut at least once or twice during the lifetime of this house, so I didn't want to use the "permanent" Wago connectors, chances are high the wires break if you have to remove them for whatever reason, and then it gets really iffy. In many instances there is not a lot of space, so you can't simply add some extensions, which would then require 2 Wago connectors per line. Of course, now with the Wago lever connectors that isn't an real issue anymore.

As a rule of thumb: if it has 2 screws it's generally a "Lüsterklemme", if it has 1 screw it's a "Dosenklemme".

Kind regards,
Oliver

six-point socket

  • Guest
Picture especially taken for @Cheese  [big grin]



--

The Festool collection grows... CTL SYS arrived today.



Kind regards,
Oliver

six-point socket

  • Guest
Today's two small projects.

1st repairing the outlets on my patio.

2nd preparing christmas decorations.

So, after removing a plant on my patio, the outlets close by became loose and I had to make a new tray for them.

Setup. ;)



The situation.



Checking if the outlets can be re-used. (1)



Checking if the outlets can be re-used. (2)



Preparing to cut my tray.



Countersinking, back.



Countersinking, front.



Fitting to wall, after having cleaned the outlets.



Finished.



Now the second part. I bought three lanterns I want to setup in front of the house sometimes after Thanksgiving - since the lanterns are very lightweight and could easily fall over or get stolen, I bought round stone plates to affix them to.

Setup. ;)



Drilling through the baseplates of the lanterns.



Drilling the stones.



M6x30.



Finished lanterns.



Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline Staniam

  • Posts: 683
  • Enjoy what you do. Build something.
What a cool thread to read while sitting at the dinning table to eat breakfast and drink my coffee. It's cool to see little home DIY projects on here. I love that 12v Bosch drill, every time I see it in think about getting it again and replacing my CXS with it  [eek]. I just love how compact and smooth it is. Kind of big words considering how in love I am with the CXS.

Keep posting pictures!
LA Lakers - Oakland Athletics
The Arsenal: Festool - PDC, CXS, RO 125, TS55 REQ, OF 1010 EQ, CT MIDI;  Bosch - JS572EBL, JS120, 1294VSK, PS22

Offline Alex

  • Posts: 5453
I hope you used outdoor cable in your new set up to connect the two boxes, because using the single insulated wire is not according to specs.


Online tjbnwi

  • Posts: 5168
  • Cedar Tucky Indiana
I hope you used outdoor cable in your new set up to connect the two boxes, because using the single insulated wire is not according to specs.

(Attachment Link)

I don't see a space/gap between the boxes. How does this affect the cable used? Here it would not be considered exposed so outdoor cable would not be required. Of course the feeder cable would have to be outdoor rated.

Tom

six-point socket

  • Guest
Used H05RN-F 3G1,5 mm² for the internal wiring and connection. Supply cable is something similar, don't have it's specs at hand.

Kind regards,
Oliver
« Last Edit: November 08, 2015, 02:05 PM by six-point socket »

Offline Alex

  • Posts: 5453
I don't see a space/gap between the boxes. How does this affect the cable used? Here it would not be considered exposed so outdoor cable would not be required. Of course the feeder cable would have to be outdoor rated.

Just butting two boxes against each other is not a water tight seal and doesn't count as such legally. In practice it probably won't do any harm the way it is done now, just pointing out it is not according to official specs. 

Online tjbnwi

  • Posts: 5168
  • Cedar Tucky Indiana
I don't see a space/gap between the boxes. How does this affect the cable used? Here it would not be considered exposed so outdoor cable would not be required. Of course the feeder cable would have to be outdoor rated.

Just butting two boxes against each other is not a water tight seal and doesn't count as such legally. In practice it probably won't do any harm the way it is done now, just pointing out it is not according to official specs.

Here we can get a sealed connector for that.

Tom

Offline Wuffles

  • Posts: 1313
Picture especially taken for @Cheese  [big grin]

(Attachment Link)

Kind regards,
Oliver

Once you go Wago. Love them.

Interesting fact btw, I once met an electrician who swore blind they were single use (the push in ones) because you can't just pull them out. Idiot.
Tool list updated to reflect knowledge :: hammer, screwdriver, one pozi bit, and another bigger hammer.

Online Cheese

  • Posts: 3478
@Wuffles
He was right, you can't pull the wires out if you pull them straight out of the Wago, it's like a Chinese finger puzzle, but if you walk the wires out from side to side and kind of unscrew them they'll come out without damaging the connector or wire.

@six-point socket
Thanx for the personal photo...I owe you one. [big grin]

Offline Wuffles

  • Posts: 1313
@Wuffles
He was right, you can't pull the wires out if you pull them straight out of the Wago, it's like a Chinese finger puzzle, but if you walk the wires out from side to side and kind of unscrew them they'll come out without damaging the connector or wire.

No mate, I know that, I mean he was cutting them off and throwing them away after one use with the stubs of wire still sticking out.

Pull and twist they come out easily, or if you have a single wire with a short length, just turn it, pops straight out. Which you also know, so don't know why I'm saying it.
Tool list updated to reflect knowledge :: hammer, screwdriver, one pozi bit, and another bigger hammer.

Online Cheese

  • Posts: 3478

No mate, I know that, I mean he was cutting them off and throwing them away after one use with the stubs of wire still sticking out.


Maybe he owned Wago stock... [eek]

Offline CrazyLarry

  • Posts: 265
Picture especially taken for @Cheese  [big grin]

(Attachment Link)

Kind regards,
Oliver

Once you go Wago. Love them.

Interesting fact btw, I once met an electrician who swore blind they were single use (the push in ones) because you can't just pull them out. Idiot.

He's right in a way ... sounds like he would be single use :)

Offline richy3333

  • Posts: 197
A 'spark' who was working on a site I was on, but not working with me was given some 3 port Wagos. He proceeded to push the line, neutral and CPC all into the one Wago. He couldn't fathom the tripping when the power was turned on again!

Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.


six-point socket

  • Guest
A 'spark' who was working on a site I was on, but not working with me was given some 3 port Wagos. He proceeded to push the line, neutral and CPC all into the one Wago. He couldn't fathom the tripping when the power was turned on again!

lol  [eek] [eek] [eek] ;D ;D ;D

Kind regards,
Oliver

six-point socket

  • Guest
Decided to make a little roof for my outlets...

Setup. LOVE the CTL-SYS!!!  [eek] [eek] [eek] ;D ;D ;D



Measuring.



Cut.



Fitting.



Overview.



Roofing felt.



Attached.



The Bosch felt neglected and insisted to get in the picture... ;)



Kind regards,
Oliver
« Last Edit: November 12, 2015, 11:09 AM by six-point socket »

six-point socket

  • Guest
Quick'n'dirty repair job for my CXS aka more CXS fun  [eek] [scared] [big grin] - I guess next year I have to replace the complete patio of my garden shed.  [scared] [scared]  [eek]  [big grin]



old screws out.



cutting replacement panels to length.



new screws in.

Kind regards,
Oliver

six-point socket

  • Guest
Hi!

Yesterday was the day I replaced my old attic ladder with a new, quality product one from Dolle. Obviously I used a couple of tools for that, some Festool - some not.

Old attic ladder. (what you can't see in this picture is that this ladder has been fixed numerous times on the lowest steps, and I deemed it to be to dangerous for any further use)



Getting it out. I had to remove a lot of rusted 10 mm nuts, an impact driver is worth it's weight in gold during this type of work.





Only the frame left.



Up until this point everything went as planned and was one smooth ride. The bolts you are about to see in the next picture, I thought they were used to hold the old frame in place and and load bearing. To get them out, I removed the nut and washer, placed my ratcheting box end wrench on the bolt, re-applied a nut and the washer in front of it, then used a 2nd nut to lock it. That worked fantastic until I realized that I was just spinning the whole bolt. I tried with another bolt - same thing.



I decided to remove the frame with a pry bar then. That did the trick. What you can see in that following picture is part of the hole in the ceiling where the frame was. If you examine it closely you will see that the original builder of the house had small blocks of wood installed, I guess while the slab was poured. Now you might ask what the bolts were for. When I got everything out with the pry bar I noticed that those bolts were used to center/align the frame. The frame was then nailed into place - and the only thing bearing the load were those nails.



Then, to install the new attic ladder I needed 2 pieces of wood that would hold the new frame and align it with the ceiling. Drilling the holes with my CXS.



Of course, the ceiling needed some holes, too. The CTL-SYS with the drilling attachment came in very handy.



Using the CXS and the angle attachment to remove the ladder from the frame of the new attic ladder.



Drilling of the new frame with the CXS.



Frame in place, ladder installed.



Almost finished. (To be continued.)



Today I relaxed, had a lazy day and just poured a small slab of concrete for a to be installed water tap.





Kind regards, and as always I hope you enjoy my postings.
Oliver

Offline Holmz

  • Posts: 3914
...
Of course, the ceiling needed some holes, too. The CTL-SYS with the drilling attachment came in very handy.

(Attachment Link)
...

Kind regards, and as always I hope you enjoy my postings.
Oliver

@six-point socket -Oliver .
That drill dust sucker-upper looks nice. What is the Festool number of it?

six-point socket

  • Guest
Hi Holmz,

Festool# is: 500483

https://www.festool.com/Products/Accessories/Pages/Detail.aspx?pid=500483

Great accessory for sure! :)

Kind regards,
Oliver

six-point socket

  • Guest
Insulation.





Rough leveling.



--

Placing hammer set anchors in my slab for the water tap.



Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline Holmz

  • Posts: 3914
...
Placing hammer set anchors in my slab for the water tap.

(Attachment Link)

Kind regards,
Oliver

They (the local bolt supply) sell a nut insert that can be cast in concrete. When I used them once in the past I put a nylon bolt in it and some wax to seal the ends.
But you can install them on a board to have the hole pattern ideal and "smash it" into the wet concrete.
It doesn't do anything too much better than a ramset type of concrete bolt, but it is an option.

six-point socket

  • Guest
Hi!

Thanks for the info @Holmz :)

--

Finished water tap.



--

Then I posted in the "What Festool did you buy today"-Thread a couple of days ago that I had fished a Festo DX 93 E out of ebay for some pocket change. I was up very early, I think around 4 AM and found the auction running until 6:45 AM. No bid yet, starting bid was 80,00 Euro / 89,00 USD. This was the picture from the auction - no further description except for that it was in working condition.



I guess that held a lot of people from bidding. I saw that the front portion of the sander was damaged - checked EKAT and bid on it. I was eager to make something from it/with it. Got it for 81,00 Euro / 91,00 USD + shipping 7,00 Euro / 8,00 USD.

This 88,00 Euro / 98,00 USD got me this:







Tool works as expected.

As I was aware of the condition I ordered: 488899 for 18,00 Euro / 20,00 USD and 488716 for 17,00 Euro / 19,00 USD - I did not order the also defective plate (Part 26) because I wanted to be sure of the Model# first.



Disassembly and throughout cleaning.





Current situation: cleaned and in working condition - turned out pretty nicely - waiting on Festool to deliver Part 26, which I ordered today for 10,00 Euro / 11,00 USD plus 3,50 Euro / 4,00 USD shipping and should be here by tomorrow or Saturday. Current total: 136,50 Euro / 152,00 USD. The fun I'm having: priceless. :)



After work snack. :)



Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline Holmz

  • Posts: 3914
That water tap is nice.

six-point socket

  • Guest
Thanks! :)

--

Festool delivered spare part 26 in less than 24h... AMAZING!



Installed. DX 93 E finished.



Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline neilc

  • Posts: 2147
Nice repair and a good deal!

Online Cheese

  • Posts: 3478
Hey Oliver...Love the water tap, I may need to borrow that idea from you. [cool]

Also, real nice job on the restoration of the DX 93, she looked a bit rough in the original photos.

six-point socket

  • Guest
@neilc & @Cheese  Thank you very much! :)

For the record I have to admit that the water tap itself was not my idea/work, I saw it and bought it from a German company: "bellissa Haas GmbH" -> http://www.bellissa.de/index.html

If you make one Cheese, I definitely would love to see it :)

Kind regards,
Oliver

Online Cheese

  • Posts: 3478
Hey Oliver,
I'll definitely make one because I've been looking at the big box stores and really don't like what they have to offer. Because the location of the installed faucet is not protected, the faucet has to be very robust and must withstand the daily abuse of children, dogs and anyone else that happens to come by.

Interestingly enough, a few years ago I built a concrete bench from some leftover concrete blocks and a cement slab so that the passersby could sit down and relax and just enjoy the view or have a picnic. However, one day as I drove down the alley, I noticed that the bench was being dismantled and the local 10-12 year old delinquents were trying to roll the pieces down the embankment and onto the railroad tracks.  [jawdrop]
Like I said...robust it needs to be.

Offline DB10

  • Posts: 880
  Hey Oliver, Great bit of bargain hunting going on there.
 I'm also very impressed with the 24hr parts delivery from Festool for 3.5 euro. I tend to forget how everything is so more automated in Europe. Sevice like that unfortunately down here just doesn't exist, we have to be very patient people, last parts I ordered up took over three weeks to turn up, and I had to drive to collect them. We have to plan ahead and usually have a few different projects on the go.

Offline Holmz

  • Posts: 3914
...
Interestingly enough, a few years ago I built a concrete bench from some leftover concrete blocks and a cement slab so that the passersby could sit down and relax and just enjoy the view or have a picnic. However, one day as I drove down the alley, I noticed that the bench was being dismantled and the local 10-12 year old delinquents were trying to roll the pieces down the embankment and onto the railroad tracks.  [jawdrop]
Like I said...robust it needs to be.

Do they sell hungry pitbulls in the cities?

Online Cheese

  • Posts: 3478
Do they sell hungry pitbulls in the cities?

That's a thought... [smile]

So...after I retrieved all of the concrete blocks from the RR tracks (they couldn't push the bench top down the hill because it weighs 120-130#), I decided to pay their parents a visit.
I politely described the situation but was told, that their children would n e v e r do anything like that...and besides the children didn't have enough time to do it because "they just returned from Bible Camp a few hours ago."  [huh] [huh]

Offline Kev

  • Posts: 7638
Do they sell hungry pitbulls in the cities?

That's a thought... [smile]

So...after I retrieved all of the concrete blocks from the RR tracks (they couldn't push the bench top down the hill because it weighs 120-130#), I decided to pay their parents a visit.
I politely described the situation but was told, that their children would n e v e r do anything like that...and besides the children didn't have enough time to do it because "they just returned from Bible Camp a few hours ago."  [huh] [huh]

Video on your phone .. forget the parents, just engage the police. A stunt the derails a train could kill a lot of people.

Delinquency like that shows there's something really sick and evil in those children. What's next? [eek]

Parents never see the bad in their children until it's too late .. unfortunately that's a fact.

@Cheese

six-point socket

  • Guest
Hi!

@Cheese It's always sad when one builds something for the general public of the town, and then some crazies (minors or not...) try to pull it apart / destroy it. And even worse that they would really try to put concrete blocks on a RR track...

When I read you went to their parents I already thought they would deny their kids did it... Even bringing out the bible camp...  [eek]  [scared]  [big grin]

@DB10

Thank you very much and I'm sorry to hear it's such a trouble getting Festool spare parts in Australia. If there is ever anything you need to have in really short time, let me know - I'm an UPS and DHL customer myself, so when Festool delivers within 24 hrs to me, I can have it in another 24 to 48 hrs at your door/site if necessary, of course shipping will be a little more on the $$$ side then - but sometimes downtime is even more expensive. Just let me know if the need should ever arise.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline DB10

  • Posts: 880
@six-point socket Thanks Oliver for the kind offer it is much appreciated.

Offline Holmz

  • Posts: 3914
...

That's a thought... [smile]

So...after I retrieved all of the concrete blocks from the RR tracks (they couldn't push the bench top down the hill because it weighs 120-130#), I decided to pay their parents a visit.
I politely described the situation but was told, that their children would n e v e r do anything like that...and besides the children didn't have enough time to do it because "they just returned from Bible Camp a few hours ago."  [huh] [huh]

The Lord works in strange ways.

These large wire jobs with the rocks also make attractive walls.
I am not sure how they would work where there is snow and frost.

Offline six-point socket II

  • Posts: 439
  • aka @the_black_tie_diyer
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"Home improvement" from the spectator's side is really, really hard for me, it makes me wanna grab a tool and do something. Maybe someone finds this type of work interesting - so I thought I'd cover it here in my thread.

Preface: Our city's mayor along with other elected individuals from the city council and the heads of our electricity/gas supplier decided they would step up their game and also offer "multimedia"-services (Internet, Phone, TV ...) And, lets say because our Mayor made some moves that could be discussed most diversely depending on "who" you are - the city has a lot of money right now.

In fact so much, that everyone who signed up is getting a fiber optic cable right into his basement and a handover point installed for free. You can then decide if at some point you want to switch over to their services or stay with what you have. Anyway - this is a no brainer as it adds value to the house/property - so I said they could do it. Additionally, for a grand they connect you to the gas line if you want - you have then 10 years to replace your current oil-fired heating with a gas heating. Also a no brainer - regularly it costs 2.5 grands and it's not going to get cheaper over the years - so I said again: Do your thing... ;)

--

Today they started by placing plastic tubes from the sidewalk (public property) to/into my property for the optical fiber cable.

I came from the bakery this morning to find this:





Then they rolled in a little compressor




And some strange looking tubes and tool




I guess it's a pretty robust tool




Here's a video how it works, please excuse the babbling in the background, not me.... https://sendvid.com/n2oyprha

Then the first outer tube is inserted




Followed by a second tube


A little loop is placed in the hole and everything back filled up and closed


This is now rolled, waiting for the other team.


--

It's 5 AM here right now, and I guess at 8 AM civil engineers will arrive and dig another, much larger hole for the gas tubes and connection. I don't know, but I hope they will leave everything that was done yesterday intact - otherwise it would be a profound waste of time... but I have no real say in this. lol. I'm just the spectator...

If there's some interested I will add more of this to this thread.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline Kev

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Are the dark pavers all just the public footpath? Have they started to dig into your property yet?

Kev.

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi,

Yes, everything dark = public. Grass = my property. So they dug one hole where the tubing comes out on my property already.

But wait for tonight, this is becoming pure slapstic - they are busy now, I have to watch closely, so I'm off again.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

I'm at a loss for words, at least a little.

Yesterday two guys came and put the fiber optic cable in the ground with their special tool. You can find the pictures and video posted above.

Today two civil engineers came to lay the gas tubing in the ground.

Please keep in mind these sub-contractors work all for the same client who schedules everything.

Who finds the "mistake"? Still lolling about this - basically unbelievable. 2 people have wasted a complete day yesterday.







Kind regards,
Oliver
« Last Edit: July 01, 2016, 01:23 AM by six-point socket II »

Offline tjskinny

  • Posts: 67
So let me guess..

Yesterday the guys with the special tool showed up and managed to get the line installed without having to dig a trench.   The gas line guys came in today and had to dig a trench in the same spot as the fiber line. So the fiber line was taken out, the gas line put in and then the fiber line was placed back into the trench.... 

Timing is everything... And unfortunately I also see integration of services not always work out.  Something always gets done at least twice.. [blink]

Been enjoying your posts.

Offline Kev

  • Posts: 7638
In our local council when work on a paved footpath happens, the pavers are taken up .. they vanish .. the work is done, then covered in black tar. Many months later someone will come along, dig up the black tar and replace it with new pavers.

Online RKA

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While you're right in thinking it's a complete waste, sometimes scheduling in an additional dependency for the fiber guys to drop the cable when the gas line is being run (for those residents that opted in) can be problematic. But if most residents opted in, yes, you would think there is an opportunity to save money...unless the mayor paid way too much and the contractor doesn't really care because they are getting well paid.

Who knows what the real story is!  But it's good for a laugh as long as my taxes aren't paying for it (then I cry).  :)
-Raj

Offline copcarcollector

  • Posts: 1359
I like to see the process.

Two questions:
1) What are the two small copper looking lines running perpendicular to your property?

2) More of an observation, I like these blocks, I have not seen them before. Seems they would make curved walls pretty easy to construct...




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Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

So let me guess..

Yesterday the guys with the special tool showed up and managed to get the line installed without having to dig a trench.   The gas line guys came in today and had to dig a trench in the same spot as the fiber line. So the fiber line was taken out, the gas line put in and then the fiber line was placed back into the trench.... 

Timing is everything... And unfortunately I also see integration of services not always work out.  Something always gets done at least twice.. [blink]

Been enjoying your posts.

Thank you! And yes, you nailed it. Still laughing when I think about it... :)

In our local council when work on a paved footpath happens, the pavers are taken up .. they vanish .. the work is done, then covered in black tar. Many months later someone will come along, dig up the black tar and replace it with new pavers.

Sounds interesting! Here, at least on those sites I have seen, the pavers are stored neatly on site (if space permits I got to add, I have seen them stored in containers and drove off) and after completion of the work re-installed.

While you're right in thinking it's a complete waste, sometimes scheduling in an additional dependency for the fiber guys to drop the cable when the gas line is being run (for those residents that opted in) can be problematic. But if most residents opted in, yes, you would think there is an opportunity to save money...unless the mayor paid way too much and the contractor doesn't really care because they are getting well paid.

Who knows what the real story is!  But it's good for a laugh as long as my taxes aren't paying for it (then I cry).  :)

I can imagine that - and I'm really not mad or anything - just funny because it happened exactly 24h after. Possible that in other streets the fiber cable was run, connected, and then the gas guys came weeks later... :)

I like to see the process.

Two questions:
1) What are the two small copper looking lines running perpendicular to your property?

2) More of an observation, I like these blocks, I have not seen them before. Seems they would make curved walls pretty easy to construct...

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

1) Cable TV and phone main lines. (And if you look closely in the corner of your marking you see a red brick, beneath that is the main power line.)

2) Those are basically planting pots. Direct translation would be "planting ring" (Pflanzring) -> http://www.hornbach.de/shop/Pflanzring-LusoFlor-Grau-48x38x30-cm/5231919/artikel.html made from concrete. You can use them to hold back a slope: http://www.kann.de/files/downloads/aufbauanleitung_pflanzwandsteine_603_37c126.pdf

But I don't think they are legal/allowed to be used for "real" construction - at least I have never seen it being used for that.

Thanks!

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

I decided to re-join Instagram: @the_black_tie_diyer

Has a little bit of everything "me". ;)

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline Sparktrician

  • Posts: 3327
Suggestion - if you choose to use Wiremold surface-mount conduit (or any other form of EMT), be absolutely sure to de-burr the cut edges before you pull in the wiring. 
- Willy -

 "Remember, a chip on the shoulder is a sure sign of wood higher up." - Brigham Young

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

I've been quite for a couple of days as things have been pretty busy around here and early Monday morning work continued on the fiber optic and gas handover points.

Around 7 AM two workers showed up to drill through my basements outer wall and to install the handover points.

They brought the smallest SDS-Max type rotary hammer from DeWalt along with Hilti drill bit and core drill bit. I felt sorry for the machine, the chuck and drill bits were dry as f*rts, some unidentifiable thick black liquid dripped out of the gearings... Clearly not the right tool for the job - but they had nothing else - and I was surely not giving them my 5 KG SDS-max rotary hammer after seeing how poorly they treat their tools.













The drilling itself took pretty long with this underpowered (max. diameter 43mm) machine but it got through eventually.







After that they were back up to their original speed. The gas handover point was fitted. It's fit through the wall and then a foam collar is added.



On top of that foam collar another plastic collar is fitted - from both sides.





From the outside, a cement mixture of very runny consistency that hardens within minutes is filled through a funnel. This serves to fix the handover point and to seal the wall again.





A product called Tangit is used to place and seal the fiber optic handover point. It's a 2-components expansion resin.





Then they had finished their part and told me a second team would arrive shortly to connect the gas line.

While I was waiting for them, I decided to use the time to clean out the hole of my basement window. This resulted in a rescue mission:

This little guy right here had somehow managed to fall through the light grid above said window/hole. His very lucky day, 2nd birthday if you want - I only very rarely open those light grids...







I set him free in the backyard where he took off right for the neighbors pond.





Shortly after this, the 2nd team arrived.

They brought a special welder.





To weld/melt the gas tube connections. All connection pieces feature metal lines on the inside, than when connected to the welder get hot and weld/melt the plastic tubes together.



But first things first:

Piping/tubing is laid out and cut





The connector to the main line is installed







Realizing they should have placed the connector the other way around. ;)



Turned around.



EVERYTHING gets wiped down with some alco-pads.



Connectors are placed. They feature a barcode that can serve different purposes. If necessary it can be used to trace it back to the manufacturer and the worker that installed it. In this case, they are used in conjunction with the welder - which then automatically detects how long it has to run for the type of connector.



Barcode scanned.



Welding.



Worker writes something on the connector...



This procedure is now repeated for all connections.









In the meantime the 2nd worker places a mechanical barrier on the gas handover point.

This is what it looks like





Placed on the handover point.



Now, the magic happens. Did I mention that the gas line is life over the whole time?

A bolt is inserted to the side of the T-connector and turned. Inside the T-Connector a cutter moves closer to the gas main line with each turn and opens it eventually. The bolt is unscrewed, the cutter head moves back in its original position and the gas can flow freely through the tubing. By that time the second worker opens the mechanical barrier to get all of the air out till he sniffs some gas. You can see the cutter in the first picture, the copper thingy inside the cut out.







Then it is also sealed.



The second connector, connecting the hose to the T-connector serves also as a flow switch.









By the end of day it looked like this:





I then proceeded to cover up the damage inside with some plaster and re-placed my shelvings.



Kind regards and I hope you guys are enjoying the journey so far,
Oliver
« Last Edit: July 05, 2016, 01:06 PM by six-point socket II »

Offline Goz

  • Posts: 76
The gas connections are fascinating.  You say the line was live the entire time?  I don't think I would have been standing around taking pictures while they were "welding" to the main.  [eek]

Thanks for sharing!

Offline rizzoa13

  • Posts: 545
That was all for a new gas line service? That seems pretty excessive but obviously high quality.

In the states there would either be a threaded black pipe or some gas-tite flex lines run and some pope dope slathered all over the threads.

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

The gas connections are fascinating.  You say the line was live the entire time?  I don't think I would have been standing around taking pictures while they were "welding" to the main.  [eek]

Thanks for sharing!

Yes, Sir, the gas line was live over the entire time they worked on it. The two guys who worked on it are professionals so I had faith and trusted them enough to stand there - I mean, where would I have gone/be safe anyway? - If that main line had blown up...

This "system" was designed to work this way. I'm not a professional in this line of work, and I haven't talked to them about this, but I could imagine that it is done like this for safety reasons:

If the gas line was shut off, all consumers connected to this part of the line would have extinguished and in this instance are supposed to close all feeding valves shut immediately and shouldn't re-open until it's manually done and the gas ignited again.

Now since you never know what kind of consumers all those people on this part of the line have and what state they are in - I guess the danger of a basement/room filling with gas because a valve of a heating, oven... (or the like) didn't shut off, and they don't automatically re-ignite is much higher than anything going wrong with this system. Of course this is the absolute worst case.

These are my un-professional thoughts.

Thank God, all went well - we're all still here to enjoy life! :)

That was all for a new gas line service? That seems pretty excessive but obviously high quality.

In the states there would either be a threaded black pipe or some gas-tite flex lines run and some pope dope slathered all over the threads.

Yes, Sir, all done for just two new gas lines from main line to handover point. Maybe nice to know for relation: The cost for this would normally be 2500 Euro (2775.75 USD at todays exchange rate) because of the work done all over town, we got the offer to do it at a heavily reduced price of 1000 Euro (1110,30  USD at todays exchange rate). Which is kinda a no-brainer because, we now got 10 yrs. time to install a gas-heating - our current oil-heating would then be over 20 yrs. old - so this is definitely a good investment.

--

Today everything was closed up. And now, slapstick hits again: Tomorrow everything on public/municipal property will be re-opened over the whole length of the street to put in the fiber optic main line in... Not sure if it's just the main line being put in or if they also make the connection to our handover point. At least the line from my handover point right into public/municipal property is there - so chances are good. Anyway, no more digging on my property - that's finished.

Just two pictures today, closed pavement and me posing with that little excavator.





Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

So today at 7AM came a lot of workers who placed the fiberoptic main line in the ground and closed it back up. They are so quick, I had to capture pictures at different sections and still didn't get everything... They work "in line": Removing pavers, excavating, placing the line, closing, adding the pavers again.

Small excavation.


Every house got a temporary bridge... (Safety is a BIG factor in Germany...)


And already re-installing the pavers...


What I didn't see, and sadly it's not really possible to communicate with the workers, if they connected the handover lines to the main line or if that will again be done separately...

For now, I consider this journey finished :)

Kind regards and I hope you had fun,
Oliver



Offline HarveyWildes

  • Posts: 555
I have been fascinated by this post.  At the planning level it seems really inefficient, but at the least the workmen seem to know how to get in and out pretty cleanly.

With all the moving of pavers, how are they going to keep the sidewalk level as everything settles?  Do they replace all excavated dirt with sand?  Who comes back to fix pavers that go wonky?  Also, who is responsible for the grass from the sidewalk to the house?  I assume they level it out and you provide the grass seed?

Offline six-point socket II

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I have been fascinated by this post.  At the planning level it seems really inefficient, but at the least the workmen seem to know how to get in and out pretty cleanly.

With all the moving of pavers, how are they going to keep the sidewalk level as everything settles?  Do they replace all excavated dirt with sand?  Who comes back to fix pavers that go wonky?  Also, who is responsible for the grass from the sidewalk to the house?  I assume they level it out and you provide the grass seed?

The workers are good, all-round talents if you want. They do everything from excavating, setting pavers, drilling....

They bring sand, they bring very fine gravel and re-set the pavers. If it should settle further below the original level in future, especially after some rainfall, it's one call and they are going to fix it.

The Grass is on my property, where they removed it they filled the excavation with topsoil and provided grass seed on their own. I had to do nothing but watch and take pictures. Basically when they leave it's all like it was before - of course except for the grass that still needs some time to grow. Pretty sure that if I had especially asked for it, they would have provided turf.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Online RKA

  • Posts: 912
It brings a smile to see how cleanly they work, the end result and how neat the site appears after the job is done. I was thinking about this thread this morning as I drove down a familiar street littered with potholes patched and filled 1000x over. My car just rumbles over this stuff at 25 mph. This is a quiet suburb, not even in the city, but you would never see this in Germany. Yet here, good 'nuf is the norm.
-Raj

Online Cheese

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Hey Oliver,
Just curious if they do any hand tamping of the sand or gravel before they replace the pavers?

This has been a rather interesting post...it's always interesting to see how others do things, especially if the others are German!
I wouldn't even want to think how something like this would be done in the States.

Offline six-point socket II

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Hey Oliver,
Just curious if they do any hand tamping of the sand or gravel before they replace the pavers?

This has been a rather interesting post...it's always interesting to see how others do things, especially if the others are German!
I wouldn't even want to think how something like this would be done in the States.

Hi @Cheese ,

They spread the soil and gravel with a shovel, than place the pavers on top and then proceed whack them a few times by hand with a rubber-mallet. After that is done, the re-placed pavers are still a little higher than the rest - then a vibrator/shaker is run once or twice over the complete length and they sit perfectly. Of course, only after a couple of rainy days we'll see if they need to re-do a section or two... :)

--

With all the praise for "German" work - I have to admit there was not one German worker. The two guys doing the excavating and drilling were originally from Turkey, the two guys doing the gas-connection, one was originally from India the other from Kazakhstan but all work for the same German company.

The two guys from the very first day, who used that rocket came from a company based in the Netherlands but were also originally from Turkey and the couple of guys running the fiber optic mainline were from the same company, but came originally from everywhere. Couple of guys originally from Estonia, one guy probably originally from Africa, and some others I didn't talk to because they were already working a street farther...

What I can say is that they all seemed pretty happy someone showed interest in what they do and how they do it, they executed their work very professional and did a great job.

The sad truth is that you won't find many Germans working in this kind of setting. Because they want to achieve "more" given the cost of living in Germany it's no wonder. So when they have their journeyman's certificate or even better their master craftsman certificate they fly off to stand on their own feet.

Establish their own company and won't ever be considered for this type of work because they can't come up with the necessary manpower needed.

And the companies doing this kind of jobs don't even pay close to enough to keep someone with a master craftsman certificate - if they do - it's for one position only - kinda the one master craftsman overseeing it all. And who absolutely needs to be there if the company want's to train/qualify apprentices.

(It's a law: only a master craftsman is allowed to take on new apprentices for training/education, so a company wanting to train/educate needs to have a master craftsman).

Given all these circumstances, and taking Turkey as an example: The two guys would get a 400,- Euro wage person/month after tax in Turkey for this kind of work. Here in Germany they are paid by the hour - the driver for example 15,- Euro/hour. They get paid for 7 - 8 hrs. a day. They don't do weekends so its 22 days/month. Lets say: 15 Euro x 7.5 x 22 = 2475 Euro before tax. So realistically they take 1732,50 Euro home. Add some perks like additional vacation/christmas gratification - that's huge for them compared to "Home".

For Germany that is rather low. No one with a college degree, journeyman/master craftsman certificate would work for that kind of money, there  may be exceptions that do, if they have some sort of "gun" to their head.

Kind regards,
Oliver


Offline six-point socket II

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I called it finished early. I just learned a large section is re-excavated - probably on Tuesday next week. My neighbor has no TV signal, they found a broken cable and fixed it - but it didn't help - so there must be more damage. And since we have a TV signal - starting at my neighbor and then down the street it's re-excavated. I'm very curious as from what I saw they never even came close to those cables - and where they came close to them, everything was A-OK when they closed the excavations...

I feel this is going to be a loooooooong story...  [scared]  [scared]  [scared]  [scared]  [scared]  [scared]  [scared]  [scared]  [scared]

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline rst

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This is the difference between Germany and the US.  In Germany you must actually be a licence tradesman in order to work publicly.  In the US, you can lose your desk job one day and the next be a "trunk slammer"...some who goes to Sears, Lowes, or Home depot,buy a hammer, square (if you're lucky) and a $50.00 saw and suddenly you're a contractor.

Online RKA

  • Posts: 912
I think the observation is the standard of work and work ethic is generally higher in Germany than the US, not necessarily a commentary on the nationality of the workers involved.  I had a fiber line run into my house 7 years ago.  They took a drill, punched the hole in the side of my garage, fished the cable through, globbed some caulk around the cable and called it done.  Outside the house the cable comes out of the ground and runs up the side of the house to the hole they drilled.  One day the landscapers are going to clip it with the mower or string trimmer.  At least I'll know where to start looking when I can't get on FOG!
-Raj

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

This is the difference between Germany and the US.  In Germany you must actually be a licence tradesman in order to work publicly.  In the US, you can lose your desk job one day and the next be a "trunk slammer"...some who goes to Sears, Lowes, or Home depot,buy a hammer, square (if you're lucky) and a $50.00 saw and suddenly you're a contractor.

Sure, it's a relief knowing that someone you hire has some sort of training/education, is eligible to have an insurance that covers his doings and the like. But then I still always wonder how many great craftsmen/workers/employees are simply lost within "the system" because they didn't make the cut. Be it because of some school grades, a mishap with the law, ... *whatever*. Personally something I always admire when thinking of the USA is that there are, at least a lot more than in Germany, bosses who think outside the box and promote talent rather than just strictly following/adhering to a procedure. I know this is a long shot, given we were talking about "trunk slammers" - and I surely don't endorse it because this can end very, very bad. Both health and monetary wise.

I think the observation is the standard of work and work ethic is generally higher in Germany than the US, not necessarily a commentary on the nationality of the workers involved.  I had a fiber line run into my house 7 years ago.  They took a drill, punched the hole in the side of my garage, fished the cable through, globbed some caulk around the cable and called it done.  Outside the house the cable comes out of the ground and runs up the side of the house to the hole they drilled.  One day the landscapers are going to clip it with the mower or string trimmer.  At least I'll know where to start looking when I can't get on FOG!

I got that :) I just wanted to give credit where credit is due :) My plumber is a German master craftsman, asks 40,- Euro/hr and I'd certainly agree that his work ethic and standard of work are higher than what I have seen from other craftsmen that have worked for me so far with other nationalities.

I get that the hole they drilled and finally caulked for your fiber optic line is above the ground/soil, right? I'd dare to say, that could happen here too if the line goes in above the ground/soil. The problem, and we had it happening to our front basement wall, is that it draws moisture if it's not sealed off properly.

In our case we have a concrete foundation, then a sealing layer and on top of that bricks and mortar. For some reason that seal was damaged and the wall drew moisture, additionally during construction of the house some water must have collected on that foundation so they drilled trhough right into the soild beneath. (Additional intake of moisture there of course...) So what was done is, that they drilled at an angle right into the first layer of bricks and injected some 2-component expansion resin. It was really injected under high pressure with a pump - not like they did for the fiber optic handover point with a caulking gun.

Here's a picture: (I marked the injection valves/ports red, and the goo that came out after removing them 24 hrs later green...)



And another to give an idea of size and hole distance



Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

One of the big disadvantages of having a home office and working from there for about 65% of my time is that everyone around you assumes you're on vacation/don't need to work and have time for everything if you open the door. Monday the door bell rang - and when I opened I was greeted by a worker from or energy supplier - he wanted to exchange the power meter. Although it really didn't fit my schedule I wanted it to be over quick so I let him do his job.

Old power meter


Old power meter with circuit breakers


Main line in and breakers - those were needed to be pulled of course - luckily my NAS and other stuff didn't get damaged as I didn't think of them and don't have a UPS... But now it's on the list of stuff to do.


breakers


New power meter


It works... *yay*... ;)


Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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So here is what happened about 11 days ago, a Neighbor complained - after the works had been finished - that his TV cable was dead.

Workers came and the pavement was re-opened in 3 spots. To search for the defective line and an obviously also defective connector.





When they found what they were looking for, defective parts of the cable were cut and re connected with a pretty special type of coax-cable connector (I haven't seen those before, only a couple of years old this technique/connector-system)











All connectors in place - ready for heat shrinking.



Heat shrinked.



The defective connector (from the 80ties, looking pretty good for being buried for more than 30 years)



Smaller connector in another of the holes they dug.



---

The whole thing is far from over, I overheard two neighbors talking today who won't agree with the replacement of the pavers, they say it's not good enough and have already complained - so I'm pretty sure we will see some workers soon who will redo the whole pavement.... And I'm going to laugh my  off if that happens, before it's re-opned for final connection of the fiber optic cable to the main line.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Online Cheese

  • Posts: 3478
Interesting Oliver, thanks for the photos & update, FWIW, I Googled the connectors and this is what I found:

http://www.intica-systems.de/en/products/industrial-engineering/high-frequency-engineering.html

Then I Googled HFC network and found this:

A hybrid fiber coaxial (HFC) network is a telecommunication technology in which optical fiber cable and coaxial cable are used in different portions of a network to carry broadband content (such as video, data, and voice). Using HFC, a local CATV company installs fiber optic cable from the cable head-end (distribution center) to serving nodes located close to business and residential users and from these nodes uses coaxial cable to individual businesses and homes. An advantage of HFC is that some of the characteristics of fiber optic cable (high bandwidth and low noise and interference susceptibility) can be brought close to the user without having to replace the existing coaxial cable that is installed all the way to the home and business.

Scientific Atlanta lists four reasons why cable TV and telephone companies are upgrading facilities to HFC:

1) The use of fiber optic cable for the backbone paths allows more data to be carried than coaxial cable alone.

2) The higher bandwidth supports reverse paths for interactive data flowing back from the user.

3) That portion of the infrastructure with fiber optic cable is more reliable than coaxial cable. Reliability is perceived as more important in an interactive environment.

4) Fiber optic cable is more efficient for interconnecting cable TV or phone companies that are consolidating with geographically adjacent companies.

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

You're absolutely correct in your findings @Cheese !

They did this years ago, all main distribution frames were upgraded to fibre optical cables & hardware. And as stated above, the lines to homes and businesses stayed coaxial. With a mayor disadvantage - most of the old connectors/distributors (like our's from the 80'ties, that was replaced as you can see in the pictures) have major problems with many of the higher frequencies used today - so while we could get all 280 (actually more...) tv-channels, phone and internet over it, it never really worked 100%. (That's why we personally, still use different companies for TV, Phone & Internet with all different lines)

If the "new" company does it right with their fibre optical cable only installation - I guess it will be the end of the company still using the coax lines that were now repaired. I know, the neighbor it was repaired for is definitely going to switch companies - so sooner or later all these coax lines will be pretty much unused - just as the upgraded distribution frames, because the "new" company built their own.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

Did some minor work on the shed yesterday: new holders for the tubed flexible lighting (think Partys and Christmas...).

Two still lives.





Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline mrFinpgh

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Wonderful photo.  Love the contrast of Axe and Systainer. 

Offline six-point socket II

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Thanks!  [big grin]

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline neilc

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These updates are amazing to see the level of detail your utility providers go to.  We don't see this much in the US!

Love your tool choices as well!  Keep them coming -

neil

Offline six-point socket II

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Glad you're enjoying the posts, Neil!  [big grin]

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline shanegrilah

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Oliver,

What is in the "Systainer of evil"?

Shane

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi Shane,

I simply empty my pockets in it when I'm working on a project. :)

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline shanegrilah

  • Posts: 18
Now I can sleep again. I thought maybe Pandora had modernized.

Regards,
Shane

Offline six-point socket II

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Now that's a great thought, hahaha  [big grin] [big grin] [big grin] [big grin]

The term refers to, or better is a reminiscence of someone I "know" and who's wisdom on various topics I admire - but further explanations are not suitable to be had on here. ;)

Kind regards,
Oliver

Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.


Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

Some tinkering I did over the weekend, installed a new fence gate. Please disregard the miserable paint job on it - I'll re-paint next week with another type of coating - this one didn't work on the wood the fence gate is made of...

Had root canal treatment on Saturday morning anyway before I went and bought the gate and painted it....





















Kind regards,
Oliver




Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

I just got a notification that on Thursday they will install my indoor handover point for the fibre optic cable. At the beginning of last week they "shot" the fibre optic cable through that tiny orange hose - I sadly didn't have the time to go out and cross the couple of streets to take pictures from the location they were working their "magic" at.

So if it's still interesting, stay tuned for new pictures :)

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi,

So the handover point for the optical fibre cable was installed today.

This is what the actual cable looks like:


This is how it was left when they "shot" the cable through:


Today they started by drilling some holes for the cable clips. They asked for a vac, so I gave them my CTL-SYS - they were pretty amazed and liked it - especially the auto on/off - lol. Seems there is a lot left to do for Festool marketing ;) This, + a BHC 18 (instead of the corded Bosch 2-28 and a C or T 18 instead of the Metabo + Systainers and a Sortainer for all the fasteners and clips would make their life soooooo much easier... @festool I'll handover the company's address for a little revenue in Festools....  :P :P :P [eek] [eek] [eek] [big grin] [big grin] [big grin] :



The Bosch 2-28


Some tinkering with cable ties


Drilling for the handover point


Needs to be screwed to the wall...


Some tweaking.


This is what the handover point looks like on the (visible) inside - on the back there's some sort of reel where some of the cable goes - I guess as a kind of strain relief.


The connector cables inside the handover point get "welded" to the incoming cables. This is done with this fun little machine, a fusion splicer (Fitel S177). Here's a video on how it is used (not mine) ->


Testing and measuring. A-OK.


So this was the last post on this matter - hope everyone enjoyed the journey!

Kind regards,
Oliver
« Last Edit: September 15, 2016, 04:43 PM by six-point socket II »

Online Cheese

  • Posts: 3478
Thanks Oliver, that's pretty interesting. That "fun little machine" costs around $16k to $17k. [jawdrop]

So do you have 2 fibre optic taps in that box?

Also, there seems to be about 2 feet of extra cable wound around that reel area, I wonder if the connections can go bad and that's the reason for the extra cable?

Finally, I'm curious what that yellow spigot is that comes out of the wall.

Online RKA

  • Posts: 912
That's a tap.  Isn't this standard in German homes?  In honor of Oktoberfest I think I need to put one in while I'm redo-ing the electrical in my basement!
-Raj

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

Since I don't know if you need 1 or 2 lines to communicate via fibre optical cable it's either 2 ports, or 4.

I think its more meant to be a strain relief, but of course - extra cable is always nice to have if something goes wrong... I'll ask them if I see them in the street! :)

Thats the handover point for gas. When we decide to change from oil to gas, that's where it will be connected. The silver-shiny thing is actually a mechanical safety, the red knob is to open the valve... ;)

LOL @ Raj  [big grin] [big grin] [big grin] [big grin] [big grin]

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

Oh the joy of adding additional holes to an existing but somewhat incomplete system 32 hole line. But thanks to the exceptional BTA HW D 5 CE tungsten carbide drill bit it can be done fast and accurate.




Kind regards,
Oliver


Offline RickyL

  • Posts: 68
Nice thread.

Who takes the pictures when both your hands are in view?

Nice watch by the way.  ;)
TXS, TSC 55REB, CTL Midi, BHC 18, C18Li, T18+3, PSC 420EB, Kapex KS120 EB, OF1400, EHL 65 EQ, ETS EC150/5, RO150 FEQ

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

Mobile-Sysport - Project coming *yay*  [eek]  [scared]  [big grin] [big grin]

So I found this 3D-Modell by Sketchup-User "Jared D." -> https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=8339ecb1-4997-4bc6-86fe-236749b9fb8b

I will add some wheels.

I had some questions/trouble regarding the 18mm plywood but once they got squared away, I bought some ply at the local lumber yard. Since I'm still not even close to be back at 85% health wise, I had it cut to final dimensions - so I don't need to stand as much as when cutting the sheet myself.



Went there with my layout and this is what I came back with. :)





Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

Here are a couple of "Festool-Shots" that I like from a another recent "project".







Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline Wooden Skye

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Oliver

Be honest, you are just showing that the mailman finally showed up with the new PDC!
Bryan

TS 55, (2) 1400 Guide Rails, 1900 Guide Rail, MFT/3, Domino DF 500, 2 domino systainers, ETS 150/3, RO 90, CT 26, (2) OF1400, RO 150. RTS 400, LR 32 set, PS300 jigsaw, 3 abrasive systainers, (2) sys toolbox, (2) sys mini, clamps and other accesories

Online Cheese

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Nice watch by the way.  ;)

A black 40mm Explorer II...what's not to like?

Offline six-point socket II

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Oliver

Be honest, you are just showing that the mailman finally showed up with the new PDC!

Hi Bryan,

actually and honestly, no. I utilized it during a pretty urgent modification to the electrical circuit for the backyard. After finding out that there is current on the ground wire. An we're not talking the inductive/inductance kind.

So among a lot of work, mainly digging, that didn't require any Festool tools. I transformed this, the last dirty little secret  [eek]  [scared] :



into this:



Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi,

another day of work.

This time I went to work on the other side.

First some demolition work.



Catching the last rays of this days winter sun.



Worked until after dark.



And then some more. Installation time...



Kind regards,
Oliver


Offline six-point socket II

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The aftermath.



And a still life from the workbench  [tongue]  [cool]  [big grin] [big grin]  [wink]



Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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  ;) ;D ;) [big grin]






Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

So I visited the Fischer (dowels) Tour Truck to learn about new Fischer products and dowel technology and of course to meet cool people.



Didn't leave empty handed - got these uber-cool dowel bottle openers.



And to support the shop where the truck stopped, bought some Fischer stuff. For example this really great dowel pliers for drywall dowels. Got to try this at the truck, it's amazing and sooo strong (20kg/dowel) It's not really new, but was to me.



Before I try to explain with a lot of words, watch the video and be amazed ;) ;) ;)  [big grin] [big grin] [big grin]



Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi,

Some pictures from the weekend, building a Sys-Port...

Cutting a couple of pieces for my "add-ons"


Old school System 32  [scared]  [big grin]




240 holes. The battery of my CXS had only one bar left and is still going...  [scared] [scared]  [eek] [eek]  8) 8) [big grin] [big grin]


Cleaning up.


Old school dowel jig.


Square


68mm hole-saw in 18mm ply - no problem for the PDC.


Todays goal was met - more work tomorrow.


Precision aka this is why I love the TSC 55.


I have to say, I learned a lot in the last two days. As you all know I'm far away from being a woodworker, but it was a fun and much needed project. I will clean it up, sand it and finish it in the coming days - then I will post more pictures and a couple of explanations.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline Euclid

  • Posts: 101
I have the same Rotring compass, Oliver!

Offline six-point socket II

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Some fun with auger drill bits...  [eek]  [scared]  [big grin] [big grin] [big grin]






















Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

So this is a little followup to the pictures I posted in February in regards to the electrical work. Since there is not much interest in this thread anymore, I will put it to rest after this post.

This posting is solely meant to give a little advice in regards to old electrical installations if someone should stumble over this thread when doing some research.

So after my work from February I was pretty happy that I had eliminated the main problem of the backyards electrical circuit: current on ground wire. I also took it as an opportunity to re-wire/install everything else in connection with it. So needless to say after a week's work - all in all - I thought it was all good to go and I would not have to touch any of it again anytime soon.

Turns out I was wrong as only a couple of weeks later the breaker for this circuit kept tripping. Sometimes immediately, sometimes only after minutes or even hours.

Since I re-wired everything myself I knew this had to be a problem with the only cable I couldn't replace in the process because doing that would have either required major demolition work or pulling a brand new brand cable through the entire basement right into the backyard. The latter would have been an option but after having finished the basement some time ago, I didn't want to start all over by installing a temporary-looking solution.

I decided to re-open the spot where old and new cable connect and it wasn't long after that I found the culprit. My initial thoughts were to closely inspect and then decide wether to give it another try or go with pulling another cable. After finding the culprit:



(Please disregard the shrink tube, that was just an experiment - after.)

You can see that one of the wires was broken, this probably happened during dismantling (lead...) of the old, stubborn cable and another one of the wires also had defective insulation which lead to a lot of sparks - you can see the residue of that.

I decided to give this another shot with the existing cable. So I cut and dismantled the cable once anew and made a connection. This time I used special connector sleeves filled with insulating, non-conductive gel made by a company called Cellpack. I'm using the Easycell 3 V model.

So first come the preparations, you need to connect the replacement cable to the connectors - I additionally decided I would use shrinking tube on bot ends where it connects to the old cables - thats what my trusty Snap-On butane soldering iron is for.







Connecting.





Shrinking.



Adding the sleeve.



It may be called easy, but it actually isn't. You're not supposed to cut the sided where the cables go in/out you just have to press down, hard. Really hard. I ended up using to pieces of scrap wood and screw clamps - that worked like a charm.

Finished.



--

Just for fun, 3 more pictures from another "culprit". ;) You gotta love quality screws....  [eek]  [scared]  [blink]  [big grin] [big grin] [big grin]







Like I said - gonna leave it at that.

Kind regards,
Oliver
« Last Edit: April 07, 2017, 04:14 PM by six-point socket II »

Online RKA

  • Posts: 912
Keep posting Oliver!  I don't say much, but I follow along as you have your fun!   [smile]
-Raj

Offline awil66

  • Posts: 133
Yes, I really like this thread.

Online Cheese

  • Posts: 3478
A couple of observations Oliver:

Back on the Feb 26th post, all of the items you removed appear to be made from plastic, in the US those same pieces would all have been fabricated from metal.  [eek]

That Fischer pliers is really slick. We have those same style fasteners in the US, however they are supposed to be set with a screwdriver only, an almost impossible task.
In drywall, the prongs just dig in and revolve before the toggle compresses fully, a mess.  [crying]
In wood (oak) either the tangs bend or break off or the screw head rounds-out before the toggle compresses fully, another mess. [mad]
That pliers is ideal... [cool]

When it comes to the cellpack connectors, do you just slather the gel material over the wire and connector ends and hope for the best or is there a specific process and quantity of gel that gets used? It seems like the best method would be to "pack" the connectors with gel as if you were using a grease gun.

Offline HarveyWildes

  • Posts: 555
I also like this thread.  I noticed two things reviewing the pictures.

Looks like there is an awesome wooden jack or jointer plane in one of the pics.  I'd like to see a couple of angles on that one.

In another picture, it looked like there was a wooden electrical box.  My inspector would go all red and explode if he saw that.  Was I imagining things?

Offline six-point socket II

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A couple of observations Oliver:

Back on the Feb 26th post, all of the items you removed appear to be made from plastic, in the US those same pieces would all have been fabricated from metal.  [eek]

That Fischer pliers is really slick. We have those same style fasteners in the US, however they are supposed to be set with a screwdriver only, an almost impossible task.
In drywall, the prongs just dig in and revolve before the toggle compresses fully, a mess.  [crying]
In wood (oak) either the tangs bend or break off or the screw head rounds-out before the toggle compresses fully, another mess. [mad]
That pliers is ideal... [cool]

When it comes to the cellpack connectors, do you just slather the gel material over the wire and connector ends and hope for the best or is there a specific process and quantity of gel that gets used? It seems like the best method would be to "pack" the connectors with gel as if you were using a grease gun.

Hi Cheese,

I know that in the US wiremold (among others, I guess?) is used. In Germany that is not readily available "off the shelf" - and it would need to be grounded anyway, since it is conductive (metal). Don't know if that can even be used at all here. Side note: of course large industrial raceways are a different story.

The go to material for us is heat/fire-resistant plastics. Everything from junction boxes, fuse/breaker boxes (some of them have metal doors), cable pipes/tubing, housings and much more is made from it. If used in the right way/ for the right application that's all good and according to code.

Now quite a bit of what I removed was put in before I was even born, code was different back then, other materials were used. Sure there's wear and it shows ;) That's why I decided to remove and replace it once and for all. ;)

Yes, those pliers work like a charm. Let me know if you want one shipped to your door ;)

For the cellpack stuff. They come ready to use from the factory, like you see them in the pictures. Then you lay the connector on top and press. The gel gets everywhere that it needs to get to as the connector is so big it drives out/away enough of the gel. I understand what you mean by hoping for the best, but it's a proven and reliable system. Similar stuff is used by some of the largest energy and telecommunications companies here.

The gel is actually pretty funny, it's "stable" but will terribly stick to anything, yet with enough force it can be separated from whatever it was sticking to. And of course, it's non conductive. ;)

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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I also like this thread.  I noticed two things reviewing the pictures.

Looks like there is an awesome wooden jack or jointer plane in one of the pics.  I'd like to see a couple of angles on that one.

In another picture, it looked like there was a wooden electrical box.  My inspector would go all red and explode if he saw that.  Was I imagining things?

Hi Harvey,

I can take a couple of pictures of the plane for you tomorrow in daylight :)

For the wooden box - it depends on which one you're referring to ;)

If it is this one:



That is totally fine. As it is not used for anything else than "holding" the outlet (that has a separate housing on the inside made from fire/heat resistant plastics, and that's also where the cable connects to the outlet) and a fully insulated cable.

It's the same type housing we would use to mount an outlet in a drywall/hollow space scenario. -> https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hohlwanddose // http://www.kopp.eu/en/productcatalogue/isolation-tubes-cable-ducts-boxes-cable-ties/distribution-boxes-and-switch-outlets/cavity-wall-switch-outlet-o-68-mm-depth-61-mm/348600003

However if you are referring to this wooden box:



Which was located here (upper, left corner) This picture was obviously taken before I removed all of it. ;)



That is indeed completely against (todays) code and ultimately why I removed it. As I mentioned before in my reply to Cheese this stuff was put in before I was even born - so I don't know if this was considered to be OK back then. Honestly, I doubt it because bakelite was already around and used for a lot junction/fuse/breaker boxes (the black one you can see in the above picture) it was also utilized for switches and other things. The small connector/junction box right next to the wooden box (where I'm testing for voltage in the above picture) is another perfect example - it's made from bakelite, too.


Kind regards,
Oliver
« Last Edit: April 08, 2017, 06:18 PM by six-point socket II »

Offline neilc

  • Posts: 2147
What does that underground line feed?   A few posts back you covered what I thought might be fiber coming into your home. 

I'm curious why i this latest set of pics you are repairing what I would think might be the utility responsibility.

Also, how are you taking the pics since you always seem to be in the photo with both hands?

Thanks for keeping this thread alive.  You have a nice collection of tools.  And a nice way of walking through what you are doing.

BTW, I have several of those Snap-on screwdrivers.  But I'm finding the ratchet mechanism goes out on them and I have to get them replaced.  No issue with Snap-on dealer doing that, but I have been surprised as I have now replaced maybe three of them.

Final question - the photo a few back that pulls the expanding anchor forward.  I'd love to have one of those.  What's it called and who makes it?!

Thanks Oliver -

neil

Offline six-point socket II

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What does that underground line feed?   A few posts back you covered what I thought might be fiber coming into your home. 

I'm curious why i this latest set of pics you are repairing what I would think might be the utility responsibility.

Also, how are you taking the pics since you always seem to be in the photo with both hands?

Thanks for keeping this thread alive.  You have a nice collection of tools.  And a nice way of walking through what you are doing.

BTW, I have several of those Snap-on screwdrivers.  But I'm finding the ratchet mechanism goes out on them and I have to get them replaced.  No issue with Snap-on dealer doing that, but I have been surprised as I have now replaced maybe three of them.

Final question - the photo a few back that pulls the expanding anchor forward.  I'd love to have one of those.  What's it called and who makes it?!

Thanks Oliver -

neil

Hi Neil,

I would never touch something that is not my responsibility ;) That is a (my) private line from the basement into the backyard. It's used for shed lighting, backyard lighting, grass mower and so on. Don't be distracted by that bit of masonry down the hole (Loooooooong story.........)  [big grin] [big grin] [big grin]

And yes, this is was a completely different "project" than the fibre line which was finished quite a couple of posts back. :)

Since you're the second one to ask about my pictures - well, it might be hard to believe but I'm actually not single ;) lol. Additionally I do have tripods for my camera and iPhone and remotes for both of them, add a 3 to 10 sec. delay and that works like a charm. And then there are also friends, family or neighbors around from time to time and I'm not afraid to ask if they take a picture while they're standing around, babbling anyway [eek] [eek]  [scared] [scared]  [big grin] [big grin] [big grin] [big grin] ;)

Thanks! :)

For the ratcheting screwdrivers from Snap-On. Well, I think you know how pedantic I am with cleaning/storing my tools... I have yet to run into a single problem with mine. And I too, have a couple of them. One that is my dirty-jobs-workhorse, that has been put through the paces and is one of those with the multimaterial/cushioned grip red/black. Then I have the same one but with a replaceable shaft. And I have the stubby one, also cushioned. Then I do have a orange classic hard handle classic and the one which is pictured here is also a classic hard handle - but was a limited/special edition for RedBull racing.

For the pliers. They are called Installation Pliers HMZ (1-3) - there are different manufacturers and styles, here's one example from Fischer. http://fischer.de/en/Product-Range/Cavity-fixings/Accessories/Installation-pliers-HMZ

They don't have mine, which is a HMZ-3, on the site yet.

If you want one, and can't source them in the US, let me know and I can ship you one. :)

Kind regards,
Oliver



Online RKA

  • Posts: 912
Oliver, the reason it never occurred to us that your SO might be taking the pics is most of us would get a few eye rolls for making such a request, followed by silence as the SO vanished from the shop!

Hmmm, now that I think about it, that might be the recipe I need for shop time!  "Honey, can you take a pic of this for the guys on the FOG?  Oh, just one more, this is a good one!"
-Raj

Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.


Offline six-point socket II

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lol, Raj :)  [big grin] [big grin] [big grin] [big grin]

Most of these pictures actually serve a real purpose: documentary of what was done, how and when. The rest is fun and games... :) It's also just a select few that I end up posting that fit my personal guidelines for online posting ;)

Kind regards,
Oliver

Online Cheese

  • Posts: 3478
Most of these pictures actually serve a real purpose: documentary of what was done, how and when.

I'm with you Oliver...all of my rehabs have been thoroughly documented, so that in the future when I need to modify a particular area, I know exactly where the sub-structure lies and what it will take to get to where I want to be. I don't just take pictures, rather I will mark on the drywall and the studs the heights and the distances between structural members so that I can then relocate the datum lines that will allow me to continue to modify a structure with minimal disturbance...then I take a picture. It works well. [thumbs up] That's been part of my MO for the last 20+ years...it's a tough habit to break.

For instance, after removing a conventional toilet and installing a wall mounted unit, if I want to mount shelving to the wall later, I'm completely aware of the routing of the PVC venting.
« Last Edit: April 09, 2017, 11:58 AM by Cheese »

Offline neilc

  • Posts: 2147
Thanks for the clarification on the digging, Oliver.  So can I assume that is a 220 v line then?

As for the Installation Pliers, that's a cool tool.  I just went to Amazon with the search 'expandable anchor installation pliers' and low and behold I found this - https://www.amazon.com/ASIBT-Rivet-Wall-Anchor-Setting/dp/B01NCQ9BMY/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491703009&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=expandable+anchor+installation+pliers

I think I'll add one to my cart.  Looks to be so much better than using a drill to tighten the screw and seeing the head spin and tearing up the wall rather than setting the bolt.

I also take really good care of my tools, but for some reason two of the Snap-on drivers have failed.  Both saw occasional use and one was in my trunk, the other in my wife's trunk.  So it might have had something to do with humidity or temperature extremes over time that caused the ratcheting mechanism to no longer catch.  My rep says he sees it a lot on the older style like you have with the yellow cap.  I have that style and the newer one and have had no issues with the newer models.

BTW, I'd have to pay my SO to take photos of me!  You've got it good!

Thanks!

Neil

Offline six-point socket II

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Thanks for the clarification on the digging, Oliver.  So can I assume that is a 220 v line then?

As for the Installation Pliers, that's a cool tool.  I just went to Amazon with the search 'expandable anchor installation pliers' and low and behold I found this - https://www.amazon.com/ASIBT-Rivet-Wall-Anchor-Setting/dp/B01NCQ9BMY/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491703009&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=expandable+anchor+installation+pliers

I think I'll add one to my cart.  Looks to be so much better than using a drill to tighten the screw and seeing the head spin and tearing up the wall rather than setting the bolt.

I also take really good care of my tools, but for some reason two of the Snap-on drivers have failed.  Both saw occasional use and one was in my trunk, the other in my wife's trunk.  So it might have had something to do with humidity or temperature extremes over time that caused the ratcheting mechanism to no longer catch.  My rep says he sees it a lot on the older style like you have with the yellow cap.  I have that style and the newer one and have had no issues with the newer models.

BTW, I'd have to pay my SO to take photos of me!  You've got it good!

Thanks!

Neil

Hi Neil,

yes, it's a 220V line.

The pliers look good!

I will keep an eye on my old-style ratcheting wrenches then, maybe I'm just lucky for now.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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@HarveyWildes

Hi Harvey,

a little later than promised, I apologize for that - but here are the picture of that plane you spotted in my previous pictures.

It was made by: Busch, Jacob; Jacob Busch, Werkzeugfabrik, Remscheid, Hochstrasse 26-30 established in 1823, "Garantiewerkzeuge" "Marke "Spannsäge"" - In 2009 they were bought by Wilh. Schmitt & Comp., Königstr. 59, 42853 Remscheid who produce everything that you know/buy as "Kirschen".

Anyway, here are the pictures:



























Hope you like them ;)

Kind regards,
Oliver




Offline HarveyWildes

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Awesome - thanks!

Any idea how old this particular plane is?  Any plans to refurbish it?  If so, what do you think it would take to get it operating like new?

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi Harvey,

well, I have no exact idea about it's age. My (uneducated) guess is: definitely not pre 1900 and not much younger than WWII. It's hard to find backed up information on this, most of what I found regarding old tools from Solingen/Remscheid is focussed on chisels.

Getting it in working order is somewhere on my list and that list is looong and it's certainly not a priority. Now that I got the blade out I will take it as an opportunity to get the rust off and sharpen it. Then someday take it from there...

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi,

Long time no hear, I thought I'd post an update.

So shortly after my last post in this thread I had unwanted, nightly visitors. Long story short: Nothing happened, but they managed to get on my backyard patio without tripping any of the cameras. Then one of them tripped a camera with two of his fingers in motion while obviously showing/pointing out the camera to his partner in crime. I saw the e-mail notification 10 minutes late, gladly I was still awake - but when I went out they were gone. Additional measures were put in place - but I also decided I would add another camera (different angle) and replace the low rising elements of my fence by high rising elements.

Preparations - No work without Jerky and Ginger Ale.



Getting out old slotted screw from the wall where the new post would be installed.





Connecting the high rising elements.



Drilling holes for attaching the post to the wall.



Sorry, no more pictures on this.

Then I needed to fix a small gate which posts are too weak. At some point I will have to replace the 70x70 with 90x90 posts but for now I just gave it some additional hold.

Adjusting and attaching angular mount to the board.



Attaching board(s) to post.



Attaching angular mount to concrete wall.



Next up, I needed to re-adjust 2 panels of my patios roof. So I had to unscrew and re-position them.

I prepared a ratchet and my impact wrench as I didn't know if maybe the impact wrench's power would be to much. As the beams have obviously dried over the years and I needed to put the screws back in the exact same holes they came out. I got lucky, it worked like a charm using the impact wrench.





Then, Casper Kjerumgaard called for "Cut out a wooden heart day" - I followed his call. In case you don't know Casper, this is his Website: http://www.casperkjerumgaard.com And this is his Instagram feed: https://www.instagram.com/casperkjerumgaard/ He is a very cool guy, awesome craftsman and I think following him will be well worth your while if you do social media.

So I cut out a wooden heart.



Next thing up was a rather quick re-design of a small portion of the back yard, building a little wall from shell limestone.





Of course this wasn't enough and there's a second part.

But for that I needed to remove a European Yew.



That went very well, I felled it completely by hand using only my Tajima G-Saw 240.





But of course there was still it's root.

So I had to spent quite a bit of time to get that dug out.



Then I went to buy a new tool to get the soil freed from smaller roots.



This is what it looked like after.



Now I was able to build the second part of the new small shell limestone wall.



And this is what it looks like finished. Still needs some new plants. And I'm still looking for something to make that "ramp" look a little nicer.




Now for some just for fun tool shots:











Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi,

About every two years I install a new, flexible side cover to the patio's roofing. Today was the day.

Back in the day I wanted to use the same quality-material that was used for the roof, while cutting it to spec. isn't a problem - there are no fixtures/hardware readily available to mount these horizontally. So I decided to go with a milky plastic foil, but that of course only lasts two winters before it needs replacing.









Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline neilc

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Great selection of drills / drivers / impacts, Oliver!

How do you like the Snap-on impact?


Offline six-point socket II

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Thanks Neil!

I love the Snap-On CT 761. It has a 3/8" drive and is packed with plenty of power (officially 120 ft-lb/ 162.7 Nm of torque output) reality is: it can loosen bolts that are torqued to 150 ft-lb/ 203 Nm. Which is pretty amazing for such a small package.

I mainly use it as impact driver with impact bitholder and impact bits or as pictured with an impact six-point socket when working around the house. Used it for demolition of my old, foldable attic ladder and other stuff like that (works great breaking lose old, rusted bolts and nuts...) - or as pictured to drive large diameter screws on my patio and the patio's roofing. It's capable of doing far more than what you would normally throw at a 3/8" compact impact wrench and that's what makes it, at least to me, so appealing. I did try it on some lug nuts and was impressed - though I wouldn't do that to it if I was changing tires daily. I figure using it constantly at outer maximum torque will at some point lead to premature wear and tear and finally result in a broken tool.

There might be more powerful and cheaper options out there by now and Snap-On obviously uses their own battery design. But I wanted and want Snap-On. I'm really, really happy with it.

I put a complete 3/8" impact socket set metric, shallow & deep with the CT 761, extensions, a 1/2" ratchet, adapters, 1/2" impact sockets for lug nuts, impact bits, impact bitholders, charger, spare battery... all into that red Systainer T-LOC 2 :)

If you have specific questions, I'll be glad to answer them. :)

If you like, you can watch it - next to the PDC - driving a SPAX (R) HI.FORCE (R) 6x120 Washer head, T-STAR plus (R) drive, steel, Wirox (R), Partial thread.



And, again if you like, you can watch it - next to PDC and Bosch GSR 12V - driving 4,5x80 Wuerth Assy 3.0 screws (AW 20 head)



Kind regards,
Oliver




Offline neilc

  • Posts: 2147
Nice videos and additional detail, Oliver! 

Love your choice of tools.  Got to watch the wallet when I read your posts!


Offline six-point socket II

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Hi Neil,

glad you enjoyed that bit of information and the videos :)

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline leakyroof

  • Posts: 1958
Thanks Neil!

I love the Snap-On CT 761. It has a 3/8" drive and is packed with plenty of power (officially 120 ft-lb/ 162.7 Nm of torque output) reality is: it can loosen bolts that are torqued to 150 ft-lb/ 203 Nm. Which is pretty amazing for such a small package.

I mainly use it as impact driver with impact bitholder and impact bits or as pictured with an impact six-point socket when working around the house. Used it for demolition of my old, foldable attic ladder and other stuff like that (works great breaking lose old, rusted bolts and nuts...) - or as pictured to drive large diameter screws on my patio and the patio's roofing. It's capable of doing far more than what you would normally throw at a 3/8" compact impact wrench and that's what makes it, at least to me, so appealing. I did try it on some lug nuts and was impressed - though I wouldn't do that to it if I was changing tires daily. I figure using it constantly at outer maximum torque will at some point lead to premature wear and tear and finally result in a broken tool.

There might be more powerful and cheaper options out there by now and Snap-On obviously uses their own battery design. But I wanted and want Snap-On. I'm really, really happy with it.

I put a complete 3/8" impact socket set metric, shallow & deep with the CT 761, extensions, a 1/2" ratchet, adapters, 1/2" impact sockets for lug nuts, impact bits, impact bitholders, charger, spare battery... all into that red Systainer T-LOC 2 :)

If you have specific questions, I'll be glad to answer them. :)

If you like, you can watch it - next to the PDC - driving a SPAX (R) HI.FORCE (R) 6x120 Washer head, T-STAR plus (R) drive, steel, Wirox (R), Partial thread.



And, again if you like, you can watch it - next to PDC and Bosch GSR 12V - driving 4,5x80 Wuerth Assy 3.0 screws (AW 20 head)



Kind regards,
Oliver
  I have that same Impact from them , in Red. Started out with it to compliment my Snap-On Impact Driver with its 1/4" Quick Change Chuck[ CT725QC]  Finally decided after a few months to upgrade to the 18 volt platform with the CT8810A, and take the 14 volt impact home. While the 18 volt impact has far more power, I do miss the smaller 14 volt version from time to time since as you noted, it has more power than its size would leave you to believe possible.
 I may STILL bring that 14 volt unit back to work someday.... [embarassed]
Not as many Sanders as PA Floor guy.....

Offline six-point socket II

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I bet you love the 18V Snap-On impact @leakyroof - It's a beast for sure. I eyed it a couple of times but decided that it would see no real use anyway and skipped on the purchase - but it is tempting. Especially with the "flat gearbox/head" 18V angle grinder they offer and once one has the batteries...... *lol*

I do own a very old 1/4" Snap-On driver, CTSE561CLSK which has a 7.2V NiCd battery. But it's very useful because you can remove/pull out the 1/4" hex shaft and put a 1/4" square shaft in for direct attaching of 1/4" sockets... all of these shafts can also be placed in a instinct-ratcheting handle that came with the set. And of course a big load of bits... One of my very first Snap-On purchases. Love that kit for very light tasks.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Here's a pic of back when the madness started... @leakyroof



Kind regards,
Oliver

Online RKA

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I have those slip joint pliers...I ****g love them!   [smile]
-Raj

Offline Peter Halle

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You always have neat projects.  Next time you look for the plastic covering try and get greenhouse plastic 4 to 5 years of life and usually a very reasonable cost.

Peter
Disclaimer:  I have been involved with the development of some TSO Products.  I have offered thoughts and ideas freely.  I am not paid but I may receive products during the development process or afterwards.

Offline Knight Woodworks

  • Posts: 193
I too enjoy seeing your tool collection. Who made the knife shown with the wrenches?

John

Offline rylim

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I'm wondering where did you Spax screw with Sortimo?

Offline six-point socket II

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You always have neat projects.  Next time you look for the plastic covering try and get greenhouse plastic 4 to 5 years of life and usually a very reasonable cost.

Peter

Hi Peter,

thanks, I will look out for that material and see if I can install it vertically. Would be great to have a cover that lasts longer.  [smile] [smile]

I too enjoy seeing your tool collection. Who made the knife shown with the wrenches?

John

Hi John,

that was made by a German knifemaker, I would need to look up his information as that was loooooong ago.



I'm wondering where did you Spax screw with Sortimo?

Hi,

In Germany that is readily available from every Spax dealer.


Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline rylim

  • Posts: 50
You always have neat projects.  Next time you look for the plastic covering try and get greenhouse plastic 4 to 5 years of life and usually a very reasonable cost.

Peter

Hi Peter,

thanks, I will look out for that material and see if I can install it vertically. Would be great to have a cover that lasts longer.  [smile] [smile]

I too enjoy seeing your tool collection. Who made the knife shown with the wrenches?

John

Hi John,

that was made by a German knifemaker, I would need to look up his information as that was loooooong ago.



I'm wondering where did you Spax screw with Sortimo?

Hi,

In Germany that is readily available from every Spax dealer.


Kind regards,
Oliver

Oliver,

At first I thought you got it from USA dealer. Sigh...

I wish I have a chance to visit Germany, and bring some tools back

Ryan

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi Ryan,

I'm sorry. But as always, to you and anyone else, my offer stands: If you need anything such as a Spax Mini-L-Boxx from here, write me a PM and we work something out and find an economical shipping rate.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Online Cheese

  • Posts: 3478
Oliver, I used a white poly film made for greenhouses...exactly what Peter was talking about. I purchased a 18' x 24' piece for $65. It's a 6 mil poly film with a 55% opacity rating. It's been up for 6 years now and still looks fine. White film is also a lot cooler temp wise. 

Google greenhouse poly film. I know there's at least one available that now has a 10 year warranty. [cool]

Offline Knight Woodworks

  • Posts: 193
Oliver,

Thanks for responding. No need to research the maker of your knife. My knowledge of German knife makers is non existent.

Keep up the good work.

John

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

my Dad gifted me his old (pre 1970) Goldenberg Zornhoff plane this morning. I gave it a quick cleaning and honed the edge (need to do this more thoroughly again because there's a little chip in the edge...). Pretty happy right now. :)










Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline HarveyWildes

  • Posts: 555
Hi!

my Dad gifted me his old (pre 1970) Goldenberg Zornhoff plane this morning. I gave it a quick cleaning and honed the edge (need to do this more thoroughly again because there's a little chip in the edge...). Pretty happy right now. :)
...

Lignum Vitae sole?

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

my Dad gifted me his old (pre 1970) Goldenberg Zornhoff plane this morning. I gave it a quick cleaning and honed the edge (need to do this more thoroughly again because there's a little chip in the edge...). Pretty happy right now. :)
...

Lignum Vitae sole?

Yes, Sir. :)

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi,

So I thought I'd share a story where everyone can have a little laugh, or maybe just a little chuckle at my expense as I did something incredibly stupid a little while ago. Additionally be as amazed as I was by the generosity of one of my buddies.

The story starts with me looking for a used, (approximate 2005 model year) Hilti T2 - M because this is a discontinued model - and later models of this type don't offer the same functions. Namely the "precision hammer mode" combined with 2 different speed gear settings for drilling and another gear for "full hammer mode". Current models only offer three of them combined.

I wanted this rotary hammer for my video (series, more to follow) about different types of drilling and what happens to certain materials when either not enough or too much power is involved.

So I found the TE 2-M I wanted on ebay and bought it. Well used, working condition.

I get the rotary hammer, unpack and check it. All good, works like a charm - but it is really dirty. So being pedantic about clean tools as I am, I decided to sit down and clean it. I have never taken a rotary hammer apart, but I thought if I wasn't supposed to - some sort of barrier would prevent me from opening something I shouldn't open. With that in mind I unscrewed the 4 screws that hold the two parts of the housing together. A little pull and there it is, a rattling noise and three parts - all for gear selection/gear switch lay on my table.

After hours of searching I find a exploded-view drawing and I now know where the parts have to go. Additional hours later - I can't piece it together. By now I also dismantled the complete gear switch for the sake of accessibility. All to no avail.

I was already on the phone with Hilti to get this repaired, when I thought of a buddy of mine who has an unbelievable knowledge of power tools (albeit from a different brand). So I thought I would ask him if he could help me out because I was sure he had opened, maintained and repaired power tools before.

This is what it looked like at that moment - I placed most of the parts back inside.









His response came fast: I can try.

I packed her up and shipped her to him.

Same day he got her, I get a reply in the evening: She runs, all back A-OK. But she needs some new grease.

I was delighted and unbelievable thankful.

Now getting Hilti grease isn't easy, it took awhile before we found an offer that suited the overall situation - but we found it and fast forward my TE 2-M was back on her way to me.

So this is what she looked like when I took her out of the package.











Can you imagine how baffled and even more grateful then ever I was? Not only had my buddy fixed the initial problem, but he cleaned her completely and re-greased her for me. Still in awe when thinking about it, and this was quite a little while ago.

Kind regards,
Oliver
« Last Edit: July 22, 2017, 06:59 PM by six-point socket II »

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi,

So today's project was about re-painting the suspended ceiling above the entrance to the backyards patio, which double functions (partly) as housing for a large shutter. The shutter housing's covers/ ceiling boards are removable - they had to come out first





Power for sander and dust extractor - I always use a PRCD-S (Portable Residual Current Device) on the main feed, even though I know my electrical circuits are a-ok.



Let's start sanding.



Even though there's only mininmal dust, I really don't want to inhale this stuff. Actually it's the first time I'm using my hearing protection while sanding - what a difference. The noise never bothered me, that's why I didn't use it before - but it definitely makes a huge difference. - Additionally PPE pics are always great to have a laugh ;)



I've said it earlier, virtually no dust left after using a Festool Sander and Festool dust extractor. Even if you use the smallest one, the CTL-SYS like me for this task.





I really like the DTS. So versatile and an absolute specialist when it comes to delicate sanding tasks. I didn't want to remove the spotlights originally, thats and I had no trouble sanding around them. But for painting I had to get them out - my idea of using some masking tape didn't work out so well. You might ask why: Those are pretty old - so they don't have the springs that are common nowadays but two very, very thin flaps made from steel - scary sharp and they pop out when the spotlight is pushed in. For removal you need to press these flaps against the spotlight's housing and push the whole unit back out. Of course this doesn't got without some force and you can cut yourself bad on them. It worked, didn't cut myself - but I would have loved it if I didn't have to get them out.



Over head sanding. Goes well but is of cause pretty exhausting. It's a small area - that's why I didn't want to go the extra mile getting a small, mobile scaffolding...



As I use it in the backyard, I had the Bosch jobsite radio at hand, I love listening to Gregory Porter while painting - makes it go so smooth. :)



I'll add a pic of the finished project tomorrow. Forget to take some pics while painting, had to do the DWC video in between plus the doorbell rang...

Kind regards,
Oliver

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Offline Peter_C

  • Posts: 448
Might I recommend a good pair of bluetooth headphones. Noise cancelling and you get to listen to books, music, or podcasts. I tear thru books myself, which makes me full of stupid facts and statistics.

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi,

@Peter C Thanks for the suggestion!

--

Here's the promised picture showing a part of the finished ceiling.



Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi,

Today I got a package containing a "grey vanisher" and "oil wipe on care"



At a german woodworking forum I was one among a couple lucky winners to receive a package containing some neat stuff. Among it: a sample of Complex hard oil and a catalog. I looked through the catalog and the afore mentioned products catched my eye.

I thought the "grey vanisher" would be a great product to clean my old backyard table.

Grabbed some stuff.



Before:





After using Complex "grey vanisher" and cleaning it off - still wet:





Base before:



Base after:



Dried:



I'm downright amazed by the result. This table never had any sort of maintenance done to it, I always wanted to, never got around doing it and it's outside year round. I think given the circumstances the result ist fantastic!

What happened, or what I learned (and what you will see in the video) is that obviously this table was coated by the manufacturer. This coating, being old and porous came off after being thoroughly wet and then scrubbed. Long, plastic like, strings came off...

Hier also noch das dazugehörige Video :)




After the table had dried, I decided to coat it with the Complex hard oil.

Because of my prior experience with the porous coating (and strings) that still covered part of the table I decided to scrub off the now dried residue with a copper wire brush.



Ready to coat.



Wider angle.



While coating/oiling.





I'll provide a picture of the result once the oil has dried.

Up to this point I really like the result and the products by Complex were a joy to work with. The "grey vanisher" emits almost no odor and is a pretty "green" product - as is the hard oil - although that does smell quite a bit. ;) One key point: There is no self ignition with Complex hard oil. Although you see me wearing gloves while using the "grey vanisher" - it's probably not needed - like I said, these products are pretty "green". If you like to take a look: http://www.complex-farben.eu/en/home.html

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline leakyroof

  • Posts: 1958
I know the feeling.....
Not as many Sanders as PA Floor guy.....

Offline leakyroof

  • Posts: 1958
And the after picture.  This table is Teak, washed with a brightener, then Sanded, then oiled with Epifanes Teak Sealer and finally varnished with multiple coats of different Epifanes Varnishes.
Not as many Sanders as PA Floor guy.....

Offline six-point socket II

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WOW! That's an uber-fantastic result.  [eek]  [big grin] Makes me wonder if I should have forced myself to use the sander first...

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline leakyroof

  • Posts: 1958
WOW! That's an uber-fantastic result.  [eek]  [big grin] Makes me wonder if I should have forced myself to use the sander first...

Kind regards,
Oliver
. Thank you Oliver... [embarassed]
I had five of them to do, some smaller, some large like the one shown.  11 chairs as well, they were much fussier than the Table Tops
Not as many Sanders as PA Floor guy.....

Online Cheese

  • Posts: 3478

Makes me wonder if I should have forced myself to use the sander first...


If you use the sander Oliver, you'll probably get a more even overall finish on the table.  [smile]

Offline six-point socket II

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Yeah, but that's too late now. I guess I'll see what the oil coat looks like when dry. And take it from there ;)

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi,

dried.



Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi,

I re-discovered one of my first "woodworking" projects some time ago. I built it with my Dad in my parents basement workshop/boxroom. Mom wrote Christmas '90 on the backside, I was 4 back then.



Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

I finished a rather unintentional project today. After a busy Friday and Saturday I wanted to clean out the shed on Sunday. Albeit I was pretty upset on Saturday as I had a lot of trouble getting a much needed radiant heater out of the shed.

So I get everything out and while putting a shelf aside, the floor sags - a little. <- Not good!

I take a look and find this  [eek] [scared] [blink]





Not the biggest surprise because the outer side of this wall faces a flower bed and there's constantly wet soil building up. I did install some sort of fence/ sacrificial board but that didn't hold up so well - you're going to see that later.

Of course I can't get any materials on a Sunday, but I can have a look.

Cutting a peephole with my MultiMaster.



Ok, there's enough space to make a clean cut with my TSC.





The old beam has to come out, another job for the Fein MultiMaster.





Then I just took measure and thought of what I would do. This morning I went to buy materials and started again.

The first beam went right in without much effort.





The second one had to be cut.





Fits.

Now a new floorboard, another job for TSC.





Fits again.

Then comes the wallboard.





Also fits. - Now the inner wall is finished.

Old sacrificial boards on the outside.



Removing all soil and cleaning the foundation/ concrete framing for holding the gravel



And now the new sacrificial board/ protective cover.



To build this I used self-tapping screws with sealing washer to attach the pool liner to the board. Then I had the pool liner travel behind the board and used the same screws to attach this construction to a healthy board - closing the gap. Hopefully the pool liner makes a good enough seal, but at least it will definitely keep all wet soil away. Additionally I will build another fence to keep the soil of the flower bed from running down. That should do the trick.

Kind regards and thanks for reading,
Oliver

Offline Peter Halle

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When you do something you don't waste any time do you?  [thumbs up]

Ultimately I think you will have to do more on the exterior than what have done because water will always wick from wet to dry and even defy gravity.  But if you had airspace involved then it won't.  Translation would be that ultimately I think that you will have to dig deeper outside and install coarse stone inside of a fabric (to prevent soil from eliminating the air spaces) and then do something like you did to move the initial water away.

Love this thread!

Peter

Disclaimer:  I have been involved with the development of some TSO Products.  I have offered thoughts and ideas freely.  I am not paid but I may receive products during the development process or afterwards.

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi,

Thanks Peter!

I will dig a little deeper, there should be a bit of the foundation sticking out to the side and then build a drain.

Thanks for the advice! :)

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline SoonerFan

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Oliver,
This is a great thread.  You do some really cool stuff and do it all really well.  If it weren't for this thread reminding me about all of stuff I should do around my house I would say this is the perfect thread  [blink].  Seriously, keep up the good work, thanks so much for taking the time to share and thanks for all your great contributions to FOG.   You make this a better place for sure.

PS - I enjoyed seeing your first woodworking project.  Reminded me of the catapult I made many years ago to fire pennies in the driveway.  My kids found it recently.

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi,

@SoonerFan , Thank you!  [smile]

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline VW MICK

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@six-point socket II

I really enjoy these posts too. I think most of my favourite threads are ones based on a progression of a project

I wish I was organised enough to post like this

Thanks you are a great contributor to the FOG

Mick

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi,

@VW MICK

Thank you very much for the compliments Mick! Glad you enjoy my posts! :)

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline neilc

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Oliver

Your productivity and tool selection make us all look bad!  But keep it up, because it does inspire us to try to keep up with your work ethic and tool collection!

Great stuff!

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi,

@neilc

Thank you very much! But you're giving me way too much credit here  [eek]  ;)  [smile] , I'm just having fun and share a bit of it  [big grin] [big grin] and I love this place!

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline grobkuschelig

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Thank you very much! But you're giving me way too much credit here  [eek]  ;)  [smile] , I'm just having fun and share a bit of it  [big grin] [big grin] and I love this place!

Kind regards,
Oliver

@six-point socket II
Your modesty honors you.
You really bring a lot to this place with all your postings and especially the extra mile you are going on almost everything you get involved with!

This is highly appreciated and the outcome of this and the vibe it creates (also from the same behavior of others) is what makes the FOG such a tremendous place to hang out!

Grüße aus Hessen. ;)

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

@grobkuschelig

Thank you very much!

Viele Grüße aus NRW ;)
Oliver


Offline six-point socket II

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I love how easy the SYS-SB transforms back from Toolbox to it's intended purpose of being a storage box, thanks to the Sortainer inset boxes. Especially on days where good amounts of installation material are needed.



Kind regards,
Oliver


Offline leakyroof

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I love how easy the SYS-SB transforms back from Toolbox to it's intended purpose of being a storage box, thanks to the Sortainer inset boxes. Especially on days where good amounts of installation material are needed.



Kind regards,
Oliver
. Oliver, what are those pieces on the right side of the photo, the yellow and red ones?
Not as many Sanders as PA Floor guy.....

Offline antss

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They look like push in wire connectors to me  [unsure]



Offline Bob D.

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Some style Wego connectors are UL approved for use in the US. I say some because I don't if they all have been approved or not. They can be handy for special situations. Not sure what the bulk pricing is but buying them a hundred at a time they cost much more than traditional twist-on wire nuts.

Great for mixed wire types, you when you are wanting to connect 16G stranded wire in a fixture with your 12 or 14G solid wire and the wire nut doesn't want to grab them both.

I've seen some informal testing on YT loading them to the point of melt-down at current loads that far exceed their rating.

They are small and take up less space than a Red wire nut, so they can be helpful in that regard too.
-----
It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?

Online Cheese

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I use the Wago connectors exclusively for low voltage outdoor lighting. They will work with 18-12 gauge wires. Real nice when trying to connect 6 different wires. With wire nuts, sometimes the connection isn't that solid and there can be some flickering on a light standard. Wago's eliminate that issue. 

In the picture below you can see the bare wire after it is inserted into the connector. If you can see the wire, you'll have a functional circuit.

Offline antss

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They are available in the U.S. under the Wago, GB and Ideal brands.

In some instances, they are actually cheaper than trad. wirenuts.   :o   Orange BORG  ::)

They run anywhere from 6 to 18 cents ea. depending on what size, how many a pack and where you buy them.   Trad. wirenuts are rarely over 10 cents a piece.

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi!

Some snapshots of some small stuff I have been busy with in between... (If you follow me on IG you have seen these already, sorry.)






















Kind regards,
Oliver
« Last Edit: October 01, 2017, 02:31 PM by six-point socket II »

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Online Cheese

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Hey Oliver, 
What's in the Fluke package?

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi Cheese,

that's my trusty T150 VDE voltage and continuity tester -> http://www.fluke.com/fluke/uken/electrical-testers/Electrical-Testers/T90-T110-T130-T150-Voltage-and-Continuity-Testers.htm?PID=73757

I think this specific model is NAINA, so I gave you a link to their UK site for a description in english.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Online Cheese

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Hey that's pretty slick. I like the audible and vibration feedback. I'm not familiar with this Fluke product, is it something new?

Offline six-point socket II

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I'm not sure it qualifies as new? I have mine for more than a year now, and it's on the market even longer. But then again it's really NAINA (I just checked) -> http://en-us.fluke.com/products/electrical-testers/

Also companies like Benning ( http://www.benning.de/duspol-voltage-testers-en.html ) and Testo ( https://www.testo.com/en-US/electrical/voltage/c/parameters_electrical_voltage ) make similar products.

Still, I'm a Fluke kinda guy ;) *lol* But before that I had a very old Benning Duspol...

Kind regards,
Oliver


Offline SRSemenza

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Oliver,


    How do you like the Vario version of the VDE screwdrivers compared to the regular VDE?

    Nice pics as usual  [thumbs up]


Seth

Offline HarveyWildes

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Fluke has been around for 70 years or so.  They've been doing voltmeters for at least 35 of those years, if not more.  The brand is now owned by the same company that owns Tektronix (oscilloscopes) - they are both subsidiaries of Fortive, which was spun off of Danaher (who also owned Stanley Tools for a while).  Danaher went on a T&M buying jag a while back and bought Fluke and Tektronix at about the same time.  Both had been independent companies until that point, and both have kept their respective brands as part of Danaher and Fortive.  Fluke makes high-end voltmeters as well as the hand-helds.


Offline SRSemenza

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Oliver,


    How do you like the Vario version of the VDE screwdrivers compared to the regular VDE?

    Nice pics as usual  [thumbs up]


Seth


Oops. I mean Kompakt not Vario.  Also do you like the reduced blade versions? I went with the regular for philips head because I like the laser tips and the reduced aren't available with laser tips.

Seth

Offline six-point socket II

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Hi Seth,

thanks! :)

It really depends from which side you're looking at them. I'll try to explain:

The Snap-On bag pictured is my "grab and go"-bag. It holds a not so basic set of tools, my toolholder should I need/want it and some speciality items. Last but not least a handful of consumables. This is my #1 tool bag and it more or less goes everywhere I go, metaphorically speaking.

It's the bag I bring in addition to a drill/driver when a friend calls at 9PM on a Sunday and asks for last minute help setting up a piece of furniture and I already know by 10PM it will have turned into: can you install this, oh and this, oh that over there, too. ;)

So what I originally wanted was a set of VDE screwdrivers for this bag.

Going with regular drivers the bag would have been half full: Slotted, PH, PZ, Torx, PH/S and PZ/S.

With this set, and by adding a 2nd handle I was able to have a full set of VDE screwdrivers occupying only one compartment of the bag. Additionally they are sturdy enough for most everything "non-VDE" in case typical bits and bit holders, ratcheting bit holders and the much loved bit ratchets are to bulky, not long enough or to wide to reach into some sort of "pocket hole". They are also a lot less wobbly than other solutions. By adding a 2nd handle you don't have to switch blades that often.

Personally I haven't come across any situation where these would break, but obviously it should be considered that these are not as heavy duty as Wera's other lines. Also when you use the #2 PH/PZ or other larger blade sizes it's a little strange feeling at first having a smaller handle than on the regular screwdrivers. But to me they feel great in the hand nonetheless - I can work with them, no problem. The handle size is a medium, a bit like on the #1 PH/PZ, maybe a tiny little bit thicker...

I think these are an excellent choice if you need a full set of VDE screwdrivers but want the smallest footprint possible. They come in a really nifty case with all blades neatly sorted and accessible. (I ditched it because it would have taken up to much space in the bag, but if you can "afford" losing that additional space, it's definitely a great case!)

Last but not least, when you apply quite a bit of torque you'll notice these are interchangeable, there is a little bit of movement you can feel. But nothing to worry about or bothering.

Sometimes I don't want to carry that bag around my place, because I really just need a select few tools, thats when I grab a few of the regular VDE from my workshop. Makes no real difference to me speaking of application.

What's cool with the Kompakt(s) is that you can also get blades for opening maintenance doors, control cabinets and so on.

However, if I was working in a industrial/commercial setting knowing exactly what three, four maybe five sizes and types of screwdrivers I need and use them everyday 9-to-5. I would spear the Kompakt(s) the wear and tear and go for the regular VDE(s)

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Oops. I mean Kompakt not Vario.  Also do you like the reduced blade versions? I went with the regular for philips head because I like the laser tips and the reduced aren't available with laser tips.

Seth

Yes, I like (use) the reduced blades. It's very practical for some tasks, especially inside control cabinets and corresponding components. But that's Germany. I have to admit I have no idea how a typical control cabinet and it's components look like in the US and if the reduced blades would be of any help.

One other application that they are perfect for is installing these: https://www.kitchenking.de/thebo-3-fach-energie-ecksaeule-st-3007-320-3-ecksteckdosen-edelstahl-steckdosenleiste-steckdosen.html (Link just for reference) You need to reach far, and at a slight angle through the two holes on top and bottom to screw them into place. Only few screwdriver blades fit.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline six-point socket II

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Even the smallest possible chores need to be done...














Kind regards,
Oliver

Offline VW MICK

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Hi Oliver

You have a knack of making very normal jobs look very interesting

cool

Mick