part 1:
I Just finished reading about 3 hours worth of articles re: topic, prompted by Brice's article/review of Jim Chestnut's Clam Clamps . What I am wondering is why is there not a 'field tool' for installing the (I am going to call it a metal spline) like they do on door casings for 'cased, pre-hung doors? I can get my miters tight when installing trim,... keeping them tight for years to come is another matter entirely.

As I look around the house that I live in which is a modular (delivered in 2 pieces) and has a large amount of winter/summer shift, all the trim remains relatively tight with few exceptions. All casings have this 'spline'.

Thoughts on this?

Part 2:
when installing stain grade millwork, I tend to shy away from glue out of fear that squeeze out will throw the painters (read: stainers) a fit when their turn comes. I somehow I end up with the actual staining as part of my bid, I almost always do my stain & sealer prior to installation to eliminate this problem/worry.

Thoughts on this?

Part 3:
One technique that I have employed in the past in both stain & paint grade work is to nail my 'head case' (no, I'm not referring to my ex-wife ) in place. Then nail the legs in place only at the miters. Returning later to finish nailing off after the glue has had time to cure. This allows me to put some tension on things (if necessary) without the glue giving up. In the end I can only wonder how long these stay tight before the glue fails. I also tend to not like working the same thing twice. So over time I stopped the method.

Thoughts on this?

No. I am talking about the 'spline' that is 'shot' in. I have a biscuiter,... and some day will have a domino, but neither is that to which I was referring.

well them too, but no.


The ones I am thinking of are 1 1/2 inches (give or take). The slightly resemble a a tall, narrow I-beam, cut on the flat side to a 90deg. point on each end, one being an inside 90, the other being an outside. They are shot in from the outside corner of the miter, 'pronged' end first.



I will see if i have a loose one floating about and post a pic.

I've seen the spline that you are talking about. The picture that you have shown is the side profile view. You should post an end profile view, it makes the spline make more sense.  The top and botom portion of the "I" provide physical resistance to prevent the miter from opening.  I think the major limitation to installing those on site would be the amount of force required to install them. I believe in shops they are installed with a pneumatic gun that is larger then a framng gun.

Glued dominos and biscuits should provide close to the same resistance. 

The view you see is exactly how it goes into the miter, pointy end towards the outside of the joint. a drawing of the end profile is in the same image, right next to it.


That could be a problem, but i could always do it on my new MFT which would eliminate clearance issues with the gun.
So, who makes the gun? I don't even know what one would call it


My 'bread & butter' work is paint grade new construction. Dominos and/or biscuits quite simply, are not going to happen, too much time. The bids for this type of work cannot spare it. I think my joints are pretty tight, definitely above par for paint grade.

Dominos and/or biscuits would be more appropriate for my stain grade and/or custom work where my margin runs a little higher.

Dan Rush and I talked at the first training class about how to use 4 mm dominoes to pin together door trim from above where you might not even need glue.  Sorry, I can't describe right now, I haven't opened presents yet.  That is NOW.  I'll be back later.

Peter

I know what you are talking about.It is also used on cabinet doors construction.(mitered picture frame)
I don't know the real name for them.As for the tool,I'm not sure where you can get it.I would try an industrial tool supplier.

Harry,

Try checking with a local door manufacturer.  My lumber yard has an in-house door shop and uses them.  I'll check with them after the holidays, if you like.   My guess would be that the pressure needed for the gun will be greater than any site compressor can handle.  In 25+ years, I have never seen those guns on a jobsite.

I agree with Chuck, always glue the joints.  With quality glue, they are unlikely to break.  I also try to build the casings on the table, then install.

Dan

Here are a few alternative ideas:

Gary Katz Stitched Miters

2P-10 Review

Collins Mitertite

I like using the Collins clamps for Crown and Base, don't know why I don't use them on casement.  With Paint grade trim I think 2P-10 will be your best bet.