Author Topic: Gap on Mitred / Bevelled edges using TS55 - how do I fix it?  (Read 4146 times)

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Offline eddomak

  • Posts: 272
Hi,

I am (attempting to) join 2 plywood panels at 90 degrees by bevelling the edges, using the TS55 at the 45 degree setting.

But when I assemble I am getting a gap at the outer edge where the 2 panels meet.

I suspect the 45 degree stop is not precise enough and I might be getting less than 45 degrees of bevelling (given that sometimes I have slight issues with the 90 degree base setting).

What is the easiest way of fixing this problem?

I am wondering whether to cut 1 edge at the "47 degree" bevel setting to give myself some wiggle room, especially as there will be no angle at which one can see any gap from the side or inside edge once assembled.

As always, thanks in advance for all your help.

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Offline rizzoa13

  • Posts: 560
I know this is stupid question but, are you sure what your assembling is at 90*? If it's something your doing in place and your working off of existing walls or such then you might be working with an off angle. If your just making a box and checking the joint with a square then disregard.

Offline overanalyze

  • Posts: 409
I had a similar issue and found the small Allen screw to let me adjust the bevel on the saw. Inset it so that the bevel is now just past 45 for nice tight miters.

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Offline Svar

  • Posts: 1119
Yes, the green pointer on the scale might not be accurate. You need to cut some test pieces adjusting the tilt untill you get 45 deg., then set the pointer and the 45 deg. stop.

Offline eddomak

  • Posts: 272
I know this is stupid question but, are you sure what your assembling is at 90*? If it's something your doing in place and your working off of existing walls or such then you might be working with an off angle. If your just making a box and checking the joint with a square then disregard.

Hi - that's not a stupid question at all, and it's a great reminder to everybody. It's a big bed, and I have checked that the surfaces it is mounted too should be 90 degrees, I suspect there can be slight deviation over a long distance, but also have a little wiggle room as well.

Svar & Overanalyze - Thanks for the hints on test pieces and the adjustment (unfortunately the verison of the TS55REQ does not have the allen key fine adjustment, and the other documented way is very fiddly) but what Rizzoa13 mentioned is more likely the case - that the framing on which the plywood is mounted may not be a pure 90 degrees. In which case would it give me a little more wiggle room if I cut 1 surface at 47 degrees?




Offline antss

  • Posts: 1380
Are you first cutting to width at 90 deg. , then tilting the saw to the 45deg. bevel to make that cut ?


Offline eddomak

  • Posts: 272
Are you first cutting to width at 90 deg. , then tilting the saw to the 45deg. bevel to make that cut ?

No, measuring, lining up edge of the splinterguard of the track, and cutting the bevel immediately.

Offline rizzoa13

  • Posts: 560
If your gaping along the front and the backside of the miters are touching first then yea cutting at 47* will give you less gap in the front. As long as it isn't a structural joint and the back and sides get covered then have at it. There are many times that sitework gets, for a lack of better term, bastardized like that. You have to work to your conditions.

Offline ear3

  • Posts: 3353
Note too that knob locking can sometimes be an issue on the TS55, especially on the slightly older models which lack a positive stop at the front at 45.  The preferred method is to lock the back knob first, then the front, taking care that you're not torquing the saw any further after the back one is locked.
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Offline Cincinnati

  • Posts: 17
I'd measure the blade angle to the base and do a test cut on scrap, adjusting it until I got it close enough. Then adjust angle stops for better repeatability next time. 

Offline eddomak

  • Posts: 272
Re: Gap on Mitred / Bevelled edges using TS55 - how do I fix it?
« Reply #10 on: May 25, 2017, 08:55 PM »
Thanks everybody for your help. It's definitely not structural, so I have ended up cutting at least 1 side to 46 ish degrees and that helped close things up. Some good clamping and adhesive have also been instrumental. Not perfect over 3 metres in length, but I am happy enough, as the underlying 90x45 frame is construction pine and it is all sitting on carpet, so I suspect I can't expect a consistent  rigid base upon which to mount things.