I tried to stay away after the "legal" advise started to be thrown about but I couldn't. We like to make things way more complicated than it needs to be. The issue at the core is very simple, don't lose sight of the question. What am I lifting and holding in place?
Like Nick, I have lifted more than a few house, heck I have moved three houses at least 10 blocks each. Though when that occurs I have a house mover and his equipment. When we move a house we do not consult an engineer for the lifting portion. Again the lifting part is the easiest mathematically and the weight involved frankly is not that much.
In the old days we used a bottle jack with a heavy duty column, a dry line, and a turn jack to follow the turn jack. We would set the line parallel to the bottom of the beam so that we could measure the deflection of the beam to the straight line. It is a good idea to start near a existing post. Aply force with the bottle jack column, while using the turn jack follow the beams movement. It is important that the posts be plumb, in some instances, under heavy load a post can deflect and roll out. That is why we use a jack to follow. Try not to over lift at one post, move the length of the beam and apply as equal force as possible both so you don't knock things above you to far out of square.
On older houses we sometimes do this process to try to get back to plumb, square and level after demo and before a major remod. I don't like to shim my base cabinets 1 1/2 " as I set them.
Be careful, be safe, and if you are scared or unsure, call a pro, we do this stuff all the time.