Hi there!

I've been searching through this forums for the past few weeks trying to figure out what tools I need to start working on some wood projects. To clarify, initially my intention is to build some small boxes for electronics (with little windows for a touchscreen, holes for speakers, buttons, other little details). After this project (for school, doing a PhD) I want to learn to build furniture pieces and cabinets.

A good friend is going to help me build the boxes and her workshop is fully Festool. She's tried to advice me on tools and already convinced about a year ago to get a CXS that I've been very happy with.

As an additional pair of constrains, I currently live in a small house with carpet. Regardless of how great dust extraction is, I'll have to be mobile enough to work on the driveway or the back-porch, and then store everything in a small laundry room. Once I'm done with school I'll move from the US to Ecuador (South America). I'll take some things as checked bags and I guess some others in a shipping container.

So here's where I think I am:
- Dust extraction is important to me.
- I don't want to get a table saw now. It's just a lot harder to store and dangerous for a beginner. Thus a track saw is in the cards.
- I think I also want a router and the flexibility of a jigsaw.

Now I'm struggling to decide between buying these tools in Makita (Fein vacuum) or Festool. I don't have an unlimited budget being a student but I do want to take some good tools. If I were to go with Festool now I think I would only get a couple of "essentials", currently considering that to be a TS55, an ETS125, and a CT Midi. Total around $1500. Whereas I can get a Makita tracksaw, ROS, router and jigsaw (all in makita systainers) with a Fein vacuum (HEPA too maybe) for about the same $1500. Adding an OF1400 and Trion adds $860. It's likely the Makita things still need some accessories like dust ports, guides or something...

So here's my few questions, for which I hope to have provided sufficient background :

- How much better will the dust extraction be? I've read that the tracksaws are comparable in this aspect, and that sanding with the ETS 125 is pretty much perfect with adjustable suction. I haven't read enough about the router or jigsaw in this aspect. Without direct hands-on experience with Festool (I'll be visiting my friend soon), I'm imagining that the best-in-class Festool dust collection still leaves a little cleaning left to do, would 10% more from the Makita/Fein system be tragic?

- Should I do without a jigsaw? For the few projects I'll be making I can use a coping saw and defer getting a Trion until much later. My friend thinks that a jigsaw is the most useful tool in a workshop.

- Should I do without a router? It seems that dados, rabets and soft edges are A LOT harder to make without a router. My friend suggests I could buy a tiny handheld/plunge router and manage.

Finally, if going full Festool, I only see a few places where I could go cheaper:
- Get the CT Sys with lifelong bag instead of the Midi saves about $150. Anyone use this with the ETS125 and misses adjustable suction really?
- The 1010 is a about $130 cheaper than the 1400. What would I miss?

Thanks in advance for all your advice!

I researched all the brands of routers when I started woodworking 15 years ago -
And I’d make the same decision today.
The Festool OF 1400 is THE router to have.
It’s the second Festool I bought after my TS 75 saw. Wouldn’t be without either of ‘em.
It has more than adequate power and precision -
And the versatility of being able to use 8mm, 1/4”, and especially 1/2” shanks -
Is an extremely strong point with the 1400. The 1010 is limited to 8mm and 1/4” shanks.

Due to the stability (runout), I use 1/2” shank router bits 95+% of the time.
Router bits with 1/2-inch shanks have nearly four times the mass of 1/4-inch-shank bits, which translates into greater stability.
The extra mass helps reduce what is known as "chatter," or vibrations caused by the high speed of the spinning bit. As you might expect, a more stable bit makes a cleaner cut. The greater mass of a 1/2-inch bit also helps dissipate heat that is generated by the bit cutting into the wood, and it slows the transfer of heat from the router's motor to the bit.

Besides “basic” edge routing tasks - The 1400, combined with the MFT and a Guide Rail - Give you the ability to easily make precise rabbet and dado joints.

I do also have the 1010 - But use it only as a trim router.
For trim routing - 1/4” shanks are OK.
It’s probably fine for small boxes, as well.

The 1010 can “get you there” - But, it’s like comparing a tack hammer to a claw hammer.
Yes. The 1400 costs more, but you’ll never regret buying/owning it.
It’s worth every cent of the difference.
And... If you’re planning on making furniture - And other larger things - You’ll definitely be happier with the 1400.
Buy the 1010 first, and you’ll shortly be eying the 1400, until you buy it.
And... you will.

A few thoughts on buying a few “essentials” when starting out -
Versus buying a larger number of “less than the best” tools.
Buy the VERY BEST tools you can afford - Even if it’s only a few to begin with.
Over time you can add to your collection... Even if it’s a tool at a time.
Doing otherwise - Will only lead to your regret in the future.
Woodworkers - And other craftsmen of all sorts - Understand this.

    “Quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten.”
          Sir Henry Royce - Founder of Rolls Royce

Festool dust collection used to stand out, but the last 5 years other brands certainly did a lot to close the gap.

As you're on a student budget I'd go for the cheaper Makitas to start out, they're fine tools and will serve you well.

Only for the sanders would I prefer Festool, I think their sanders really make a difference.

Well you lucked out when it comes to voltage & frequency in Ecuador.   

As far as the video goes, I have a TSC 55 with a bag and recently cut some 2" thick white oak for a countertop. I'd say the dust collection between the Makita & the Festool is the same. It's impressive with the Festool and equally impressive with the Makita.

Power wise, I think the TSC may be slightly stronger...tough to tell, just going by the sound my TSC cuts a bit faster. That's strictly conjecture on my part and only a side-by-side test would reveal the truth.

I enjoy using the 1010 more than the 1400 because of its small size. However, I think the 1400 has slightly better dust collection.

The 1400 also has more collet sizes available. There is a 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" available. That may make a difference if you're purchasing router bits in Ecuador.

Like Alex, I'd stick with Festool sanders.  I'd absolutely spend the extra $$ for the ETS EC 125 over the ETS 125. They're the same weight but the ETS EC 125 is smoother, has a lower center of gravity, a 50% larger sanding stroke and has almost 2x the power.  A 150mm pad will also fit on the ETS EC 125.

Since purchasing the ETS EC 125, I very rarely ever pick up the ETS 125, no reason to.

@jtibau If you are going with plywood only for first few projects the priority should be the track saw. I would also second the ets-ec.

To make a decision on the router you need to determine the joinery type you will be shooting for and if you are going to do any pocket/recesses in the box for your speakers or switches. If it is just pocket screw joinery and small recesses a small dewalt/makita plunge would do. if you are going to dato all shelves / case ends, then you may want to step up to a 1010 or 1400 (I love both of these).

My only gripe about the makita track saw is the track guide adjustment. The festool cams are just miles better and lead to much less frustration in setup and usage. The makitas tend to get loose overtime. Power and cut quality are not a problem with the makita.

PS only thing better than having one router is two, and so on and so forth. you will quickly understand why...

The rotex sanders are different.  They offer the ability to aggressively sand, and yes, they can be used to finish down a panel, but that is not their strength and the ergonomics make it less ideally suited for that task.  You'll find products in various categories that overlap, but consider your main use for the tool and pick the tool ideally suited for that task rather than trying to find a one size fits all tool.  So for panels and general finish sanding, I would choose the ETS150/5.  It's cheaper than the EC models and still works  well without the extra electronics in the EC models (that can present reliability and durability issues).  Sandpaper, get  120/180/220 grit granat.  That should cover you nicely.

Jigsaw - I would skip, it's not at all my most used tool.  But, when/if you find yourself needing to cut curves, then consider adding this.

Router - OF1400 as already stated for the ability to run 1/4", 1/2" and 8mm bits and very good dust collection.  I think you will eventually add a small trim router like a dewalt 611.  If you're only doing edge trimming right now, get that dewalt in a kit with the plunge base for now (or something similar from Makita).  I would pass on the cordless Makita trim router only because of the added expense. 

I would recommend the TSO guide rail square.  And 800mm track is a nice convenience, especially if you're working on that workmate and cutting smaller pieces, however, you could work on the ground on a foam board (we've all done it at some point) and spare yourself the added expense for now.  If you need to cut longer panels, add another 1400mm track.

Rip blade for the tracksaw is probably unnecessary unless you plan on working with 1.5" or greater hardwood.  The 48 tooth factory blade can do a lot. 

For the dust extractor, I would get a midi or mini.  Better airflow for the router and saw and more capacity for the same tools (which would fill up a ct sys really fast).  The smaller CT Sys is better suited for sanders and light duty clean up.