Michael E.
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« on: May 30, 2012, 07:26 PM » |
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« Last Edit: May 30, 2012, 08:43 PM by Peter Halle »
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Michael E.
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« Reply #1 on: May 30, 2012, 07:47 PM » |
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« Last Edit: May 30, 2012, 08:47 PM by Peter Halle »
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Michael E.
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« Reply #2 on: May 30, 2012, 08:30 PM » |
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« Last Edit: May 30, 2012, 08:50 PM by Peter Halle »
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davee
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Location: Central Illinois Member Since: Jan 2010
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« Reply #3 on: May 30, 2012, 08:54 PM » |
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Great pictures. I just moved out of a small basement into the light also. It is agreat move. Enjoy. Looking forward to more pictures.
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Kev
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« Reply #4 on: May 30, 2012, 09:04 PM » |
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I'm stressed at being confined to 24 x 12 ... nnd I'm not putting floor standing kit in like yourself (yet). Admittedly I'm storing a lot of stuff that needs to be shifted and I keep a work desk in there.
Can you put DC outside?
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Michael E.
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« Reply #5 on: May 30, 2012, 09:30 PM » |
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I'm stressed at being confined to 24 x 12 ... nnd I'm not putting floor standing kit in like yourself (yet). Admittedly I'm storing a lot of stuff that needs to be shifted and I keep a work desk in there.
Can you put DC outside?
I was considering that. I'd have to build some sort of lean-to on the back of the shop, and drill a large hole out through the brick, which I haven't done. I thought I'd move in and start building a gardening shed on the back and make the DC move if I need it. Ironicly the shop isn't done yet and I've also considered the ways I may build an addition in the future.
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #6 on: May 31, 2012, 02:47 AM » |
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Very nice, Michael! One caveat that I'll point out, probably too late, but wood directly to masonry. Try to avoid or use something in between like a bituthene product or even tar paper and should be pressure treated wood. That will extend the life from the effects of water and insect.
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JPF Woodworking
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Location: Haverhill, MA Member Since: Jun 2011
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« Reply #7 on: May 31, 2012, 06:30 AM » |
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Nice project Michael! Seems like you are doing a top-knotch job. One question. You mentioned stripping off the slate roof. Was the slate not salvagable? Your new shop has a lot of character and with a slate roof would be very distinctive. I also see that you are toying with the layout of your tools. You may have noted the discussion surrounding "table saw vrs. TS 75" posted recently. Seems like something you might want to consider with your limited space. My shop is 22' X 32' and is space challenged. Good luck on your project and keep us posted!
JPF
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Kristian
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« Reply #8 on: May 31, 2012, 07:16 AM » |
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Very interesting thread, Michael. Good choice to replace that garage door with the French one. It may add extra costs to the project but it'll completely change your shop for the better. Keep them pictures comin'.  - Kristian
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Michael E.
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« Reply #9 on: May 31, 2012, 07:49 AM » |
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Very nice, Michael! One caveat that I'll point out, probably too late, but wood directly to masonry. Try to avoid or use something in between like a bituthene product or even tar paper and should be pressure treated wood. That will extend the life from the effects of water and insect.
Actually back before the frameing was done the entire inside was sprayed with a clear water barrier, and all of my toe boards are composit to stop water from wicking up. In retrospect butyl tape on the furring strips would have been a great idea, I've done that under deck boards with great success, but I didn't come up with it then. It's ashame though I'm getting all these great suguestions after the fact. Nice project Michael! Seems like you are doing a top-knotch job. One question. You mentioned stripping off the slate roof. Was the slate not salvagable? Your new shop has a lot of character and with a slate roof would be very distinctive. I also see that you are toying with the layout of your tools. You may have noted the discussion surrounding "table saw vrs. TS 75" posted recently. Seems like something you might want to consider with your limited space. My shop is 22' X 32' and is space challenged. Good luck on your project and keep us posted!
JPF
You know I was considering that last year. My table saw is woefully undersized and I had planned on replacing it, but I had figured on a saw with a mobile base I could roll out front of the shop for large cuts. A TS 75 is definitly worth seriously looking into. The slate was delaminating and sheeting off the roof. Unfortunately my aera got bad slate from the local quarry in the 40s. All the homes are haveing to replace & reroof now. I sold it as salvage, but didn't get much because of the poor condition of the material... money is money though.
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« Last Edit: May 31, 2012, 10:18 AM by Michael E. »
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Michael E.
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« Reply #10 on: May 31, 2012, 07:59 PM » |
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Michael E.
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« Reply #11 on: June 03, 2012, 08:49 PM » |
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Alright so here is the next set of photos. Remember I'm already at the plastering & paint phase so you'r looking at already completed work. So most of this set shows photos of bringing power out to the shop in the form of a subpanel. I thought it was important to show what I did originally, so that others might learn from this colossal waist of my time. I ran a pretty beefy circuit from my first floor panel out to the shop all in conduit, and installed a small panel... too small. Let's just say $40 at Home Depot wasted. After completely hooking it up and wiring almost all the regular 20 amp circuits (I'll have photos of that later) I realized I totally forgot to include any room for 2 pole breakers in this little panel... A word came to mind. But what could I do, better to fix it than wish I had done it differently. So I took out this panel and have since replaced it with one that will suit my needs better. Now that You're up to date let me just state for the record: I am not an electrician, and I don't claim to be. I'm comfortable with this level of wiring, but would under no circumstances encourage anyone to attempt this kind of work who isn't. Hire a professional. I know enough to make it safe, and make it pass my local inspection, but would never claim to be an expert on the subject. I learned what I know from my job, and my Grandfather, may he rest in peace, who was a master electrician. I only wish my own skill came anywhere close to his.                    
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« Last Edit: June 03, 2012, 10:32 PM by Michael E. »
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builderbob
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« Reply #12 on: June 03, 2012, 09:47 PM » |
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Holy lots of work! Kudos to you! Looks great and I'm looking forward to your progress! Keep up the backbreaking work!  Bob
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Kapex, TS55, Domino, MFK 700, OF 1400, OF 1010, RAS 115, RTS 400, ETS 150/3, ETS 125, CT 22 (2), C 12 (2), T-15+3, T-12+3, PSB 300 & more MFT's than i can count!
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Michael E.
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« Reply #13 on: June 04, 2012, 10:18 PM » |
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bullieblue
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« Reply #14 on: June 04, 2012, 10:50 PM » |
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That is a butt load of work you have gotten done there and nice done too.
What is the time frame from beginning to now has this project taken you and did you have any help?
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"If you're not cheating, you're not trying hard enough"
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Michael E.
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« Reply #15 on: June 04, 2012, 10:57 PM » |
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That is a butt load of work you have gotten done there and nice done too.
What is the time frame from beginning to now has this project taken you and did you have any help?
Well I started it a year ago, but aside from a couple of weeks of vacation time we're talking about working weekends. And I'll admit to taking off the winter. I didn't have heat, and felt rather attached to my fingers. I've gotten a few days of help from friends here and there, notably a few weeks ago when I hung the drywall on the ceiling (pictures will go up soon I promise, but I'm pacing them), but for the vast majority of the work it's just been me.
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Michael E.
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« Reply #16 on: June 06, 2012, 04:57 PM » |
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Well today marks the unfortunate end of my jigsaw. It's a shame really... I was scribing the back side of an oak board I'm useing as a shelf in the workshop and it just couldn't handle it. The motor burnt up. It wasn't expensive, it wasn't high end, actually it was a gift, but darn it I didn't want to have to spend the money. Ah well I guess it's time to start shopping.
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Peter Halle
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« Reply #17 on: June 06, 2012, 06:15 PM » |
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The Trion gets mixed reviews from members, but it does have an almost bullet proof drivetrain I have been told by those who really know (the guys who repair them).
Happy shopping!
Peter
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day. The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy. They also were in the minority. Their complaint: They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in. I guess the truth hurts.
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Michael E.
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« Reply #18 on: June 08, 2012, 11:27 PM » |
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Michael E.
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« Reply #19 on: June 12, 2012, 03:39 PM » |
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« Last Edit: June 12, 2012, 03:42 PM by Michael E. »
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Michael Garrett
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« Reply #20 on: June 12, 2012, 04:11 PM » |
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Can you post how you got the Dust Bucket to fit, I have the have router table. The support bracket and levers are in the way. How did you do the modification?
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CT 26 HEPA, MFT/3, TS 75 EQ, OF 1400 EQ, DF 500 SET, CXS SET, CENTROTEC INSTALLER SET 98-PC, TRADESMAN/INSTALLER CLEANING SET, DOMINO ASSORTMENT SYSTEM, LR 32 HOLE DRILLING SET, GUIDE RAIL ACCESSORY KIT, GUIDE RAIL FS 1400/2 (2), GUIDE RAIL FS 1900/2 (2), GUIDE RAIL FS 1400/2 LR 32 (1), Veritas MFT Clamping Kit, Zorbo Forstner Bit Set
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Michael E.
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« Reply #21 on: June 12, 2012, 11:13 PM » |
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Can you post how you got the Dust Bucket to fit, I have the have router table. The support bracket and levers are in the way. How did you do the modification?
Well I didn't photograph the setup until after I was done, but basically I realized the same thing you did that the two support brackets and the levelers are in the way of just mounting the dust bucket. The only way to use it is to give yourself a flat surface to mount to. You can do that as simply as mounting a piece of plywood to the underside of the frame, but I didn't want to see it. So what I did was cut the plywood to fit inside the frame with a hole the size of the top of the dust bucket and notched corners for the bolts, and I inserted the panel into 3 sides of the uppers u shaped frame before I installed the last piece of frame and the last two legs. Then I stuffed foam inside to fill the void, screwed the plywood to the frame, and used HVAC tape along the seams to make it airtight. It took a bit though before I worked out the assembly, but it works great.
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Steve R
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« Reply #22 on: June 16, 2012, 12:25 PM » |
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Very much enjoying watching your build!
Cheers, Steve
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"A Festool is a tool, Marian; much better than any other tool: an axe, a shovel or anything. A Festool is still only as good or as bad as the man using it. Remember that.” ~ Ode to Shane (the movie)
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Kevin D.
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« Reply #23 on: June 16, 2012, 02:45 PM » |
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Just found this thread. Like what you'vedone. You're a hard workin' clever fellow. Thanks for sharing. Have you got that trench filled yet? Install a smoke detector in your shop wired with one in the house. I did this for mine. My thinking was for two situations. An oily rag that spontaneously combusts, or the errant metallic object that gets sucked into your DC and sparks a slow smoldering fire in your collection bag that finally catches after you've left the shop. Of course a fire extinguisher in the shop is a must as well. Here's a reply I received from a firefighter/friend/woodworker/PT contractor a few years ago in regards to what extinguisher(s) you may want to consider for a shop: As for the extinguishers, a wood shop usually has need for an "A" (water based) extinguisher for obvious reasons. This however will not deal with the charged electrical conditions you could potentially come across with tools. It also doesn't deal with solvents and paints if you refinish in the area.
My opinion, 2 extinguishers is what you require. If you have a wood, paper or cloth type fire you should have a minimum of a 10A rated extinguisher. A manual hand pump type is great for this (bigger the better...10 litre?). The second extinguisher should be a CO2 extinguisher (10BC). This will deal with most liquid type (paint, solvent and oil) fires and electrically charged equipment. It leaves no residue and won't harm the equipment.
If you decide to go with a multi-purpose extinguisher (5A10BC,etc.), it will work fine but leaves an awful mess because of its residue. I don't recommend it for this reason Another safety item I like is an emergency light that is wired to your electrical to come on when there's a power failure. The thought of being in pitch black at certain tasks in a shop is a scary one imo.
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TS75, MFT 1080, MF-SYS/2, PS300 EQ-Plus, Parallel Guides Set, LR32 SYS, RO 150FEQ-Plus, OF1400 EQ Plus, DOMINO 500 Q-Plus, MFK 700 EQ-Set, FS-SYS/2, CT22 w/hose storage, D36HW-RS-Plus, FS 1900/2, FS 3000/2, FS 1080/2-LR32, FS 1400/2-LR32, Gecko, Festool Hat, Festool T-Shirt (2), Festool Floor Mat, Festool Stein.
Wish List: Kapex, and more sanders.
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Michael E.
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Location: United States Member Since: May 2012
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« Reply #24 on: June 16, 2012, 04:45 PM » |
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Just found this thread. Like what you'vedone. You're a hard workin' clever fellow. Thanks for sharing. Have you got that trench filled yet? Install a smoke detector in your shop wired with one in the house. I did this for mine. My thinking was for two situations. An oily rag that spontaneously combusts, or the errant metallic object that gets sucked into your DC and sparks a slow smoldering fire in your collection bag that finally catches after you've left the shop. Of course a fire extinguisher in the shop is a must as well. Here's a reply I received from a firefighter/friend/woodworker/PT contractor a few years ago in regards to what extinguisher(s) you may want to consider for a shop: As for the extinguishers, a wood shop usually has need for an "A" (water based) extinguisher for obvious reasons. This however will not deal with the charged electrical conditions you could potentially come across with tools. It also doesn't deal with solvents and paints if you refinish in the area.
My opinion, 2 extinguishers is what you require. If you have a wood, paper or cloth type fire you should have a minimum of a 10A rated extinguisher. A manual hand pump type is great for this (bigger the better...10 litre?). The second extinguisher should be a CO2 extinguisher (10BC). This will deal with most liquid type (paint, solvent and oil) fires and electrically charged equipment. It leaves no residue and won't harm the equipment.
If you decide to go with a multi-purpose extinguisher (5A10BC,etc.), it will work fine but leaves an awful mess because of its residue. I don't recommend it for this reason Another safety item I like is an emergency light that is wired to your electrical to come on when there's a power failure. The thought of being in pitch black at certain tasks in a shop is a scary one imo. Well I didn't do a hardwire, but I did have ADT add a heat detector & a alarm sensor on the door out there. I went with a heat detector so that I wouldn't have to deal with false alarms caused by dust in the air. I actually already wired in for two direct wire lithonia emergency lights, I didn't like the idea of a spinning blade in the dark either. I get frequent outages here and have a few emergency lights in the house already. I haven't picked a fire extinguisher yet, or prepared a first aid kit, but I did have a friend give me an old eyewash station for the shop. I was 't even really thinking about what type of fire extinguisher haha. Very much enjoying watching your build!
Cheers, Steve
Glad your enjoying it, I'll just be glad to finish at this point. But I'm already thinking about some projects to start once I've gotten situated in the new space.
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Tinker
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Location: Ridgefield, CT Member Since: Jan 2007
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« Reply #25 on: June 30, 2012, 10:25 AM » |
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The Trion gets mixed reviews from members, but it does have an almost bullet proof drivetrain I have been told by those who really know (the guys who repair them).
Happy shopping!
Peter
Peter, YOU are a troublemaker  Tinker
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Wayne H. Tinker
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Tinker
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« Reply #26 on: June 30, 2012, 10:26 AM » |
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Michael E, A lot of work A great job. Tinker
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Wayne H. Tinker
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Michael E.
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« Reply #27 on: July 16, 2012, 03:51 PM » |
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Michael E.
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« Reply #28 on: July 31, 2012, 08:26 PM » |
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neilc
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« Reply #29 on: July 31, 2012, 09:08 PM » |
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Michael -
Wow, what a transformation! Shop is looking great.
Who makes the pegboard?
What are the overall interior shop dimensions?
Thanks for sharing -
neil
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