Author Topic: Apothecary chest  (Read 4305 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 168
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Apothecary chest
« Reply #30 on: June 13, 2018, 09:43 AM »
I was in two minds whether to post this, but since the method is a practice, it would be great to get feedback, since the strategy I have come up with is complex. Can you do this another way?

Each row has 4 drawers, and these will be shaped to match the bow across the chest.

At the start, the drawer fronts are to be left straight. This maintains the reference sides. The ends of each drawer front have been bevelled to match fit the bow of each drawer blade.

This is a fitted (practice) drawer front (posted last time) ..

The drawer side has been dovetailed to the obtuse angled side (again, details in my previous post:  ...

The need now is to dovetail the acute angle ...

This is where it gets interesting. It you look at the lines drawn on the drawer side, if made coplanar with the drawer front, the dovetails will need to me cut at an angle. That is much too complicated, and likely to be a poor fit.

Then, if the baseline is cut square (as usual), the dovetail will end up in the centre of the side (and not extending up from edge of the board).

The only way I could come up with for a fit that simplified the tail board was to rebate the pin board, so ....

The rebate needs to be as deep as the drawer side (for a flush fit), and square to the side (so the baseline of the tail board fits flush).

The first step is to mark the baseline ...

On the piece above, you can also see the rebate markings.

The rebate is now cut parallel to the side ...

Remove some of the waste with a chisel ...

Now that rebate needed to be both straight and flat. It needs to be an equal depth along its length.

It could have been chiselled, but that is less efficient. A shoulder plane as this would not ensure a square shoulder without extra work to create an absolutely square edge for a tight fit. In the end I came up with this idea to plane it using a LN Edge Plane.

A spacer was attached to plane to the 1/4" depth ...

The finish was spot on ...


The rear of the tail board, with blue tape used to create a fence ...

Tails on pins ...

The socket shoulders are deepened to create a socket that undercuts the baseline ..

Because the angle was so difficult to chisel, a trimmer router was used to remove most of the waste ...

... before the remainder was removed ...

Coming together

The fit ...

The angle ...

This is a rough idea of what it will look like once the drawer front is shaped ...

The two sides that must be made for all drawers ...

Regards from Perth


Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.

Offline neilc

  • Posts: 2396
Re: Apothecary chest
« Reply #31 on: June 13, 2018, 03:51 PM »
Fantastic update, Derek!

I think what you have outlined will work.  It's tedious, but I can't think of another way to easily deal with the complexity of the curve and dovetails.

Are you thinking you'll bandsaw or plane the curve into the front?  You might consider a 'carrier' to let you place the drawer fronts in an arc cutting jig if you are going to use the bandsaw.  This might get you 'close' to the final curve with minimal planing needed.

Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 168
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Apothecary chest
« Reply #32 on: June 14, 2018, 01:55 AM »
Thanks Neil.

I will use the drawer blade as a template to mark out the front curve, then bandsaw the waste and finish either/both with rasps and a smoother. The inside curve can then be marked from the outside, and waste removed in a similar way.

Regards from Perth


Offline HarveyWildes

  • Posts: 723
Re: Apothecary chest
« Reply #33 on: June 14, 2018, 12:24 PM »
I like the approach.  I might be tempted to clamp on a little more bearing surface for the trim router.

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 4430
Re: Apothecary chest
« Reply #34 on: June 16, 2018, 10:02 AM »
Nice stuff... [big grin] ...I like the rebate idea. The curves on the drawer fronts will be really interesting. [tongue]