Wow am I struggling getting images to appear in-line from the gallery.  I am trying to follow the tutorial on how to do that but keep getting the "red x"??

like this...



I am going to the gallery...selecting a picture....going to my address bar and copying the url....coming back to my post and clicking the image icon which inserts the [img][img]...then copying the url address in between the bars.....red x!

Barry,

In your first post, the two photos came through OK.  What are you doing different now?  I go to my gallery, click on the photo I want, then right click on its properties, then copy that URL (an http:/) address, then click on the "insert image" button then paste my copied URL between the [img] [img] symbols that appear in the draft message.  i'm a relative newbie to working with photos and hyperlinks.

Dave R.

Dave, that is exactly what I am doing but I get the red x for some reason.  I went back to the other way...clicking additional options at the bottom of a post and inserting attachments that way.

Ahhh..Forrest...most excellent..now I'm with you.  I am hopefully off to the races now.  Thank you!

I have to love a guy that steals his garage for a shop!

Does the wife park outside like mine? 

Sounds like our wives are a lot alike in that sense.

Even when its 20 below and 10 inches of snow she doesn't complain. She leaves right after I go to bed so she is on her own clearing the car of snow to leave in the morning,.

Our home is the same it not only needs work, but half way completed projects are in many rooms and we still get shop stuff before finishing the house.

We all know that no project goes by without buying something new Festool..and I do need to cut something 10' long and I am sure I don't have to tell anybody what's in that box...




I am set up on the floor with foam boards to make my cut.  The saw is on a 1.5 degree bevel and the marks have been made to account for the taper.


The cut is made with a brand new rip blade in the TS55.


A second board is cut and check for level.


A third board is cut for a "cap" for the threshold.  I used short sections of angle iron with holes drilled for cement anchors to secure the treated lumber to the concrete floor.  The top board was nailed down with a framing nailer.


Blocking was cut and screwed between the long runs for support.  Then the solid 1.25" computer room tiles will be put back in place.  The T & G plywood will fit very nicely over top of all this.  Before that happens all the new framework will rest on top of the threshold.

couple more shots

Barry,

Have you planned out how you will hinge these large and heavy doors.  If you have not thought about that you may want to give it some thought before you get too far along with construction.  Many years ago I built an entryway for my dad's place that had a 4' wide by 8 ft tall by 1.75" thick solid cherry door which I estimated weighed about 160-180 pounds without hardware.  It ended up being hung on four 4" ball bearing hinges.  The side jambs also have to be able to handle the weight and the joints in the door itself have to be strong enough to withstand the stress of the doors own weight and gravity pulling on it and making it sag out of square.

Best,
Todd

Dave, Todd...I have to say that I am doing this all backwards in a way....I am fairly far along at this point and wish I could have found time to learn how to manipulate files and then properly post.  I have been at just that all day.  Anyway, had I been able to do that I could have posted all along while I was planning and building.

I wish I would have used MDO instead of MDF.  I would have liked the flatter surface than MDF as well.  I will do my best to seal the perimeters of the doors against water.  The layers were glued using good constuction adhesive.  The very outside panel is called "Hardi-Panel"  No sweat with the weather..it is cement board and paint will hold up well...BUT..it does bring up more of where your mind is Todd....that Hardi-Panel is HEAVY!  I have not weighed one of thes quadrants (but will) and I have thought long and hard about just the questions you ask.


Here you can see the three layers of build-out for the framing and then the blocking and another 2 x 6 to get the final dimension for the finished frame.  I used 8 inch long heavy screws to hold in place and then went back in (I think three) places and drilled all the way through and put carriage bolts through this whole sandwich.  I will try to get some pictures of that and insert them here.


8 inch long screws


Drilling for the carriage bolts.

I dont believe the framework will pose any problem with sagging...

For the jambs...

Near 2-inch thick solid oak jambs compared to a 2 x 6.

Three of these per quadrant

4.5" x 4.5" hinges with 1/4 inch screws long enough to go through the oak and into the rough framing.

For the doors I reinforced where the 1/4" screws will go into the doors by using two dominos one behing another so that the screws would have something solid to bite into.



You can see that I am fairly well along the build path...I will outline how I went about that in future posts.

BTW...thank you so much for your ideas!

Looks like you have thought it out pretty well and done a nice job with the construction too.  It should turn out quite nice I think...

Best,
Todd

Thanks guys for the comments...Dave I think you will be able to see the glow from the smile on my face a couple of hours away when the fort doors are done!

I would like to post a few better pictures of the finished framing to show the measures taken to prevent any sagging and will do so when I pull down the foam board that is protecting me from the elements right now.  This will come down when I am ready to finally install the jamb and hang these heavy doors.


After carefully measuring and marking the panel, I begin cutting the 5/8" MDF to form the inside and outside of the 2 x 4 framework for each of four doors.  I always make sure to only use one tape measure.  I use a 5mm pencil to carefully mark my line and use incra measuring tools to finish my lines I mark for the Festool guide rail to line up with.  I know this is very elementary for all here but using these to measure and mark helps keep the panel square.

Incidentally, I previosly worked out all my dimensions using Sketchup.  I cannot stress it enough how valuable this program is for any project really but for me, one this large, it helps me work out problems before I begin cutting.  It outputs nicely to a program called "Cutlist" as well so that in all your planning stages, and when you get good with the combination of these programs, you can eliminate a lot of clutter in your mind, freeing you up to concentrate on tasks at hand.


I use these for marking or as a square to extend tape measured marks.


Might I mention that THIS blade does not play well with the Hardi-Panel (yes Dave, cement board).  I think this blade is shot but I may buy one of thos HF sharpening systems that has been mentioned here.  http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96687

The first layer is glued and stapled to the panel.  The kerf is cut into the top board of the bottom doors.  When the mating end of the top doors close, this will provide a tight fit where the two opposing weatherstrips meet.  This should keep the air out! 


Weatherstrip inserted in kerf.  Another lessen I learned...Put the weatherstripping in that kerf RIGHT AWAY!.  It will close up.  You think I would have learned that after watching the boards move all over the place after I dimensioned then and left them sit overnight!

Another oversight (boo boo)....If you look at the weatherstrip in the previous photo, if I did the same thing to the bottom of the top doors, they would not close.  There is no relief for the opposing weatherstripping to meet.  I probably would have rabbeted that relief evenly on the opposing boards but can't now so I just relieved it on the top door.  That worked out alright.



The bottom board of the top door relief plan.

Here is a top door ready to receive framework for double layer plexiglass window that will be installed.


Here I am quickly set up for assembly of the window frame with a CMT pocket hole jig mounted to a piece of plywood.  I can quickly clamp this to my MFT and go right to work on drilling.  The C12 with the interchangeable chucks is again my go to tool for this operation.


The 2 x 4s for the window framework have been milled and cut.  Notice they are turned on their side and cut to final height of 2.5" to match the sandwhich layer height of the door framework.  The pocket holes have been drilled.  The clamping elements and the hold downs make easy work of securing the window frame for driving the pocket screws.  I have used story sticks cut to proper length to make the frame square and ready to accept the plexiglass windows which will be installed later.


Here is a finished frame for the window.


The frame is now secured to the door frame with screws and contruction adhesive is applied to all mating surfaces.  I have offset this window a little to the top of the upper door as I am 6'5 and want to be able to easily look out. 


Getting ready to flush trim the window opening.


One side cut out

Other side clamped and then cut out.  Ready for insertion of foam board and assembly.

Barry, thanks for the tip regarding the RotoZip bit.  They offer several different bits.  Which one is this "medieval" one?  Is it solid carbide or HSS?

I think I may have one of those for use with my high speed die grinder. (This grinder was originally purchased to make my Corvette engine more powerful, but proven to be one of the most versatile tools I have ever owned.)

What is your estimate of weight of one of the dutch doors you are making?

Dave R.

That number and size of hinges should be more than enough.  I have a very old set of oak frame French doors, each filled with heavy beveled glass from top to botom (nine lights).  Each passage sized door is supported by three 4 1/2 inch steel hinges, and was long before I came to be their owner.  No problems with the hinges.

Dave R.

Barry,

That should be more than enough hinges.   I've been looking at hinges for a bookshelf closet door I'm working on and found standard (non-ball bearing) hinges at Lowes that will support 165 lbs w/ three 4" hinges.  They had them in both brass plated steel and stainless steel.

Fred

I chose a nice looking paneling for the inside skin of the doors and the cutting was pretty straight forward.


Guide rail on tape measured marks;ready for cutting.


Clamped in place and ready to flush trim the window cut riding the bearing along the inside of the window frame.


Using a forstner bit to cut a hole to provide entry for the flush trim bit.


Window is cut out.  These doors should look really nice viewed from either side but I am really anxious to see how they look from the inside once they are hung and all trimmed out.


They will be warm and cozy as well.  I used two layers of the foam board to come up with the proper thickness.  There is a 1.5" pink board under this 1" blue board.

Thanks for those kind words Dave.  That means something coming from someone who has set the bar for documenting a build as far as I am concerned!


As mentioned earlier, there would be a need to be concerned about these heavy doors sagging both from the jamb side and the integrity of the doors themselves.  I have marked out the hinges  on each of the individul doors.  This will be transferred onto the jambs at a later point.  For now, you can see that the upper screws will bore right between where the MDF panel meets the door frames raising the concern that the doors might sag even further.  I used the Domino machine to bore some domino holes inline and perpendicular to the path of the upper screws.  This should give the screws something solid to bite into.  I used the largest domino and set to the deepest depth.  They were then trimmed with a japenese hand saw.


Trimming the dominos flush to the MD----uh...OSB..I just realized I have been calling that MDF...oops.


What's going on here??  Someone forgot to fill the door with foam board before boring the dominos.  Luckily I recognized that I did this before the glue was dry and a flat pry bar made short work of prying the OSB panel back off.


There...that's better...really I was just using those dominos as registration pins...sure.

Cutting HardiPanel: I am using a Diamond blade.
Just bought a 7" Husky "Diamond Turbo Blade" at Home Depot for about $15.00.
Bought one, because I can't find the previous two I had.
Hence the need for us to have a shop.
Just signed up to provide this tip.
Google brought me to your site.
I think I'll probably be copying your design to some degree.
Good stuff.  Can't wait to see it mounted, how it works, etc.

Here's a jig that works with 4.5" hinges, the thickness of your door might be a problem but it might be worth looking into.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=21099

Yeah...I am about betting on a home made jig with as thick as these doors are.  I like the looks of the Hinge-Mate jig but it also is not for thicker doors.  I may have to finish up on my modification of the Shopnotes jig and test run it on some mock-ups.  I will post the results of that here when I do it. 

Barry,

You might want to step up to a Festool MFS.  Works great for doing hinge mortisese and whatever else you might want to do with your router.  I used mine yesterday to create a mortice in the bottom panel of my garage storage cabinet.  I needed to lower the position of the magnetic door catches so the new drawer I recently built could be installed as close to that bottom panel to provide clearance above for the jack stands and other equipment I store in this lower compartment.

Here's a photo of the cabinet before installation of the new lowest level drawer.  The magnetic catches are screwed to the top surface of the bottom panel, and are in danger of being damaged every time I pull out one of the boxes containing automotive jack stands and other tools.


MFS 400 set up to mortice bottom panel.  Note use of Festool clamp on right and "gravity clamp" on left.  I used the right angle brackets that come with the MFS to assure alignment relative to the front edge of the panel.


Mortice completed, magnetic catch set in mortice to confirm correct depth.  The OF 1400 is equipped with a PC bushing adapter and a 3/8 inch 2-flute HSS bit.  For this non-critical job I just eyeballed the offset of the bit relative to the MFS edges.


Magnetic catches and drawer installed.


The more I use my MFS, the more uses I find for it.  In this case, it save me from either making a template or chiseling the needed mortice by hand while kneeling on a cold concrete floor.  The MFS made this little job fast, neat and accurate.

Dave R.

Yes Dave...I would have to agree with you that an MFS is definitely in orde....I think that would make the motising a bunch easier...and I definitely spent too much energy and time already on building a jig that I am not positive yet will do the job...only problem is funds right now...other purchases are in the works limiting my spending....sooo,,,I will have to make do.  Do you have a Festool part number for that gravity clamp?

Eiji...I can't say that I disagree with you at this point...it is certainly a concern of mine.  I thought about a 5" butt hinges to get the little extra depth into the door...I originally was putting two hinges per quadrant...the lack of depth is the sole reason I added a third hinge per door...  Another reason was price...It was getting to be ovr 400.00 just for hinges when I was looking at the 5" hinges...hmmm..

For attaching HardiPanel, I am using a nail gun.  A round head framing nailer works for me.
A HardiPanel competitor Certainteed Fiber Cement has a lot of good information on their web site.
http://www.certainteed.com/
When framing I set it for deepest possible nailing, so I get fully seated to a little over seated, depending on wood hardness, if I hit a knot, etc.
For the HardiPanel I set the depth so I get a little less depth.  The deepest nails are correct.  Many I have to finish off with a hammer.