Barry,

That should be more than enough hinges.   I've been looking at hinges for a bookshelf closet door I'm working on and found standard (non-ball bearing) hinges at Lowes that will support 165 lbs w/ three 4" hinges.  They had them in both brass plated steel and stainless steel.

Fred

I chose a nice looking paneling for the inside skin of the doors and the cutting was pretty straight forward.


Guide rail on tape measured marks;ready for cutting.


Clamped in place and ready to flush trim the window cut riding the bearing along the inside of the window frame.


Using a forstner bit to cut a hole to provide entry for the flush trim bit.


Window is cut out.  These doors should look really nice viewed from either side but I am really anxious to see how they look from the inside once they are hung and all trimmed out.


They will be warm and cozy as well.  I used two layers of the foam board to come up with the proper thickness.  There is a 1.5" pink board under this 1" blue board.

Thanks for those kind words Dave.  That means something coming from someone who has set the bar for documenting a build as far as I am concerned!


As mentioned earlier, there would be a need to be concerned about these heavy doors sagging both from the jamb side and the integrity of the doors themselves.  I have marked out the hinges  on each of the individul doors.  This will be transferred onto the jambs at a later point.  For now, you can see that the upper screws will bore right between where the MDF panel meets the door frames raising the concern that the doors might sag even further.  I used the Domino machine to bore some domino holes inline and perpendicular to the path of the upper screws.  This should give the screws something solid to bite into.  I used the largest domino and set to the deepest depth.  They were then trimmed with a japenese hand saw.


Trimming the dominos flush to the MD----uh...OSB..I just realized I have been calling that MDF...oops.


What's going on here??  Someone forgot to fill the door with foam board before boring the dominos.  Luckily I recognized that I did this before the glue was dry and a flat pry bar made short work of prying the OSB panel back off.


There...that's better...really I was just using those dominos as registration pins...sure.

Cutting HardiPanel: I am using a Diamond blade.
Just bought a 7" Husky "Diamond Turbo Blade" at Home Depot for about $15.00.
Bought one, because I can't find the previous two I had.
Hence the need for us to have a shop.
Just signed up to provide this tip.
Google brought me to your site.
I think I'll probably be copying your design to some degree.
Good stuff.  Can't wait to see it mounted, how it works, etc.

Here's a jig that works with 4.5" hinges, the thickness of your door might be a problem but it might be worth looking into.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=21099

Yeah...I am about betting on a home made jig with as thick as these doors are.  I like the looks of the Hinge-Mate jig but it also is not for thicker doors.  I may have to finish up on my modification of the Shopnotes jig and test run it on some mock-ups.  I will post the results of that here when I do it. 

Barry,

You might want to step up to a Festool MFS.  Works great for doing hinge mortisese and whatever else you might want to do with your router.  I used mine yesterday to create a mortice in the bottom panel of my garage storage cabinet.  I needed to lower the position of the magnetic door catches so the new drawer I recently built could be installed as close to that bottom panel to provide clearance above for the jack stands and other equipment I store in this lower compartment.

Here's a photo of the cabinet before installation of the new lowest level drawer.  The magnetic catches are screwed to the top surface of the bottom panel, and are in danger of being damaged every time I pull out one of the boxes containing automotive jack stands and other tools.


MFS 400 set up to mortice bottom panel.  Note use of Festool clamp on right and "gravity clamp" on left.  I used the right angle brackets that come with the MFS to assure alignment relative to the front edge of the panel.


Mortice completed, magnetic catch set in mortice to confirm correct depth.  The OF 1400 is equipped with a PC bushing adapter and a 3/8 inch 2-flute HSS bit.  For this non-critical job I just eyeballed the offset of the bit relative to the MFS edges.


Magnetic catches and drawer installed.


The more I use my MFS, the more uses I find for it.  In this case, it save me from either making a template or chiseling the needed mortice by hand while kneeling on a cold concrete floor.  The MFS made this little job fast, neat and accurate.

Dave R.

Yes Dave...I would have to agree with you that an MFS is definitely in orde....I think that would make the motising a bunch easier...and I definitely spent too much energy and time already on building a jig that I am not positive yet will do the job...only problem is funds right now...other purchases are in the works limiting my spending....sooo,,,I will have to make do.  Do you have a Festool part number for that gravity clamp?

Eiji...I can't say that I disagree with you at this point...it is certainly a concern of mine.  I thought about a 5" butt hinges to get the little extra depth into the door...I originally was putting two hinges per quadrant...the lack of depth is the sole reason I added a third hinge per door...  Another reason was price...It was getting to be ovr 400.00 just for hinges when I was looking at the 5" hinges...hmmm..

For attaching HardiPanel, I am using a nail gun.  A round head framing nailer works for me.
A HardiPanel competitor Certainteed Fiber Cement has a lot of good information on their web site.
http://www.certainteed.com/
When framing I set it for deepest possible nailing, so I get fully seated to a little over seated, depending on wood hardness, if I hit a knot, etc.
For the HardiPanel I set the depth so I get a little less depth.  The deepest nails are correct.  Many I have to finish off with a hammer.