On doors with fixed side lites I attach the side lite to the jambs before attaching the head jamb and threshold. That way I can still get the system to the job in my truck. The side lite jamb assemblies make the whole system very ridgid, kind of acting like shear panels.

I cut the lites to width making sure that the sides are exactly parrallel and square up the bottom.

I align the bottom of the lites to the bottom of the jambs with the threshold cut off.

Scribe the tops to the stop and cut.

Time for some Festool Energy Drink

Now I assemble the sidelites and jambs.

I cut the stop for the top jamb but leave it loose.

Using the same methods I have other jambs and T-holds cut and wrapped.

Before I can get to the door prep for the double doors I need to set some glass in the single doors. I like to have the glass stop flush with the frame so I mill it slightly proud and sand it flush. Even if in moves slighty and puts a line in the finish I like the look better that and stop with a step reveal.

When both doors are cut at the same time it ensures that the tops and bottoms of the doors align after install.

Hinge prep is next. Then installation of the extension flushbolts in the operable sidelight using the OF-1400 and OF-HF routing aid. I like that name better that "plexiglass template".

I layout the flush bolt assembly on the door and mark the location of the end of the plate closest to the end of the door. The plate is 1" wide so I am using a 1" bit to rout the mortise. I center the OF-HF on the door thickness and place the lateral center 1/2" off the start mark towards the center of the mortise. I clamp a stop at that location. I then place the flush bolt on the other side and clamp a stop there as well. I add a 1" spacer in front of the back stop to compensate for the thickness of the bit. I need to create a stepped mortise with the deeper center of the mortise 3/4" in from the ends of the mortise. I add a 3/4" spacer to each side and then put a little tape on them so they dont vibrate off during the routing but so I can just fold them back when routing the shallow parts of the mortise. The deep part of the mortise is routed first and to 32 mm depth. then fold back the tape pulling back the 3/4" spacers but keeping the 1" spacer in place. I set the depth for the plate in the same way I set the depth for the hinges.

Now to bore the extension bolt. I dont have a boring jig so I just changed to a 1/2"  extra long plunge bit with the OF-HF. The hole needs to be 3/4" from the edge of the door. so I just used my starrett and one of the 3/4 spacers.

Now I have I nice straight starter hole and I finish with a long bit. It's a remote control automatic makita .

Wow!  Great post.  great narrative.  Great photos.  By the way, you might want to look at www.consevationtechnology.com for self adjusting door sweeps and other weatherstripping ideas.

peter

Holly ... Eiji.

GREAT JOB!

Looks like your well on your way to a How To Book!

Scott W.

Great picture of your kids. Now I'm curious to see a picture of the family.

  Yeah, but if you look close at his daughter's eyes you can see she's a little ticked she didn't get a sword too. Please make the girl a sword  already. 

I'd like to know that also,

and while you are at it, to you or the computer gurus out there.......

how does one compose text in microsoft word then copy it over to the message box,

without having to go back in the text once loaded on the forum and remove all the

the  ? inserted in words such as........

don?t i instead of don't 

       


Roger

Okay Eiji,

I'll give it a shot....




First, choose your photos, and upload them. They will be numbered sequentially by the software. (first upload = #1, second #2 ... etc.)





Start your text, when you want to insert a photo you uploaded select the insert inline image drop down and select full size or thumbnail (whichever you prefer).


The software will put in html like this : attachimg=#  (it will be enclosed in square brackets). replace the # with the photo number you want placed 1,2,3 etc.

Hit return and type the caption or more text.

Repeat

Hope this helps

Scott W.

I'm waiting anxiously for Bob Swenson's entry.

Per, you wernt just fun'n us were ya?

Scott W.

How do you like the inline images.

I did an oops. After milling the groove for the sweep I set the router too close to the edge of the bench. Luckily it landed on it's feet but broke a leg.


Quick fix and I'm back on track. The waxed wood fences slide much better than the plexi but you cant see through them.

Thanks Michael.

Here is the method I used to control glue squeeze out.

Dry fit and put blue tape across the joint.


The other side. I used a block to get the tape into the corner.


Now I carefully ride a shape blade down the joint to split the tape.




It is now ready for glue.

After the glue sets I pull the tape. I would say that I am very happy with the split tape method (first tried and shown here) and that 97 percent of the sqeeze out was contained. The rest was scraped off easily.


Here is the weatherstrip.