With the case woodworking complete we'll get to the hardware and doors.



 We"ll install the Blum # 173H710 cam adjustable hinge mounting plates. An easy process, small arrows point outward towards the door. The plastic dowels fit perfectly in the 5mm holes and while tightening the screws they expand while gripping the fixture down flat.



 Using the Blumotion locating and drilling jig is a rush.    We need to drill a 10mm (25/64) hole 2" deep into the edge of the ply. This helps keep the bit straight. Steady and light pressure. Have the bondo ready.    No it's not that bad.

Locating the piston / plunger Update Detailed information on locating the plunger 970A can be found on the Blumotion for doors brochure. (3.26mb file) http://www.blum.com/pdf/BUS/1077_bmn4d_b/1077_bmn4d_b.pdf  Page 16 and 17.

There are many other soft close choices including the snap onto the standard hinge type such as the 973A. No drilling or special tools required.
There is a Blumotion option for just about any application.  Pick the model and check the specs to match with hardware.

The installed location shown is off by about an inch. The correct location per Blum specs, using the combination of 0mm mounting plates and overlay doors should be 32mm from the inside corner of the cabinet,  in the same general location but a little furher away from hinge.



Then we'll tap the Soft Close plunger down into place. We have one per door, upper hinge side - right and left on the front edge of the top panel.

 That completes the case and now onto the doors.
 
   Plenty of options here. I will use a stile and rail set by Festool. I get my door dimensions by the using the actual outside case measurements. And since I will have a double door I'll split it in half and I'll make my doors so as to have no gap and no reveal. We're using Full Overlay hinges. After door completion I will create a door gap by trimming the mating edge of each door a bit, 1/32" or so each. And if I wanted a little reveal I will still make the door full size at this time. 
   Here is the Festool set that I used #491129 stile bit and #491130 rail bit.



 The stock was machined on a Jessem router table. A slow speed was used and plowed out the profile in one big gulp. (soft pine) With a second pass to clean up. One minor issue or comment on the set: the center gap is less than 1/4" by enough that for my application I had to widen the gaps of all the parts a bit to receive the 1/4" panel that I used in the center of the doors. Some very minor sanding before assembly to clean up fuzz. The profile is smooth and pleasing to the eye. Nice looking set. The stile and rail stock was 3/4" clear pine and sized at 2 1/4"
  If using slab doors I would tape only the hinge side of each door and leave the other three edges of each door unfinished until fitting is complete.

When the doors are ready we will drill the three hole hinge cup pattern in the back side of each door, and then fit them.

 Or a CNC machine starting with a 13" thick slab 

Dave, I hope you are getting to see the pics OK. They are coming directly from Photobucket not the gallery, as I have not yet figured out how to ref the link and view with a preview as I attempt to edit  .

An outstanding thread. Nice work telling the step-by-step. I know well how difficult that is. Keep em coming. We will never have to much of that.

 We'll put the hinges on and start the finish trimming. Wow they fit and line up 



Adjust the doors so they are flush with the side of the case as a starting point. Now you will see that you will need to create the gap for the two doors to operate properly.




I shaved an equal tad off the mating edges of each door (Remember not to change the hinge cup edge) and then edge sanded.



 Then I just shaved the tops and bottoms using the stop on the MFT. Here you can create more of a reveal if so desired. Those using slab doors can complete the edge banding process after fitting the doors.



 With some quick and easy adjustments you will be able to fine tune the door gap and all around fit with amazing accuracy.



The gap can be closed to a razor thin parallel line or widened to suit your taste.

Closing comments to follow.

Patrick,
Nice job. Have you always used the Blum Ecodrill?  I have the 1400 router, but no guide rail with holes.  I have been debating on getting the LR 32-Set or the LR 32-SYS. I have other blum products and like them a lot. Do you know how  the 35mm bit works with the LR 32-SYS. I've heard that some people have problems with it burning using the router. Any thoughts or recommendations on which system to lean toward would be helpful.
Thanks, Mike

Patrick,

I guess the plywood is thinner around my neck of the woods. I just bought the same bit set and the groove was perfect for the 1/4 inch plywood I had on hand. Who knows what the next sheet will be like. I did need to re-shim the bearing on the rail bit to get a better fit on the joint. The tongue was .010 (.25mm) thinner than the groove. I like the look of these joints. In pine like your doors it would look right at home in a more rustic setting while in a fine close grained wood like maple or cherry it could have a very modern look. I am looking forward to seeing how the pattern can be dressed up or down with various panel treatments. A nice refreshing look. Thanks again for all the work you have put into this. John was right when he commented on how much it takes to make a presentation flow so well.

Added thought: Have you tried the special roundover bit that goes with this rail and style set? It allows for even more variability.

 Greg , glad to hear your opinions on the bit set. Your comments reflect my thoughts of the "look" perfectly. That other bit is on my wish list and I'm looking forward to using that. Thanks for the compliments.

 Thanks Doug, We're talking about Festool Panel Raising bit # 491138.


Thanks John, I have been reading your site Woodshopdemos for a couple of years at least. My introduction to "Festool" was from your presentations on them. And of coarse with the help of your assistants, the tool learning curve process is made easy. 

Actually Doug, I was talking about roundover bit #491131 but I certainly would like to see the profile from the panel raising bit that Patrick is referring to. The #491131 roundover produces the same ovoid shape as the rail and style bit with which Patrick made his doors. He left that treatment off, which goes to show that one can create a lot of variety with this set even before the panel is considered.

Patrick, If you have that panel raiser I would certainly like to see the profile it creates. The catalog pics are too hard to discern.

British maybe, or Australian?   You're hanging around this forum too much John.  Need more time with assistants.

For those of us too destitute (from other recent purchases) to buy a Domino, could decent results be achieved using dados & rabbits?  I read somewhere that using these in plywood weakens it a bit, and shouldn't be done.  Any advice?  Thanks.

What you said makes perfect sense, and is in line with what I thought should be true, but I thought I would ask.  Thanks for the response.

I like the Domino as much as the next guy. However, using it for any kind of framing is just a bit over the top, don't ya think? If I used dominoes for all of my framing work, I'd either have to get some wealthier customers, or go bankrupt. Its a fast tool, but it ain't anywhere near as fast as a framing nailer, or even a BFH.

I thought Festool owners had to have Macs (sorry about that as I'm typing it on a PC! but I am as addicted to Apples as I am to Festools)

Apple....    you can buy better but you can't pay more!

Fred