Great looking and very portable table, in fact it looks just like the YouTube video:
Do you know how much weight the base ( without the top) with shelve is?  I assume that the base plywood is made of 3/4” is it sturdy?

"Due to the different method that I employed,..."

But looking at your photos I do not see anything that explains your alternate method, or did I miss it.

@Jurgen W,  the person in the video is @Coach.carpenter. He is a member here. I believe he was trying to market the bench. You should ask him about the plans.

@Jurgen W

I haven't been on this thread in quite a while, so I apologize for having missed your question about the material that I used.  It is actually 1/2" plywood, which makes a surprisingly sturdy table once the bottom insert and top are installed (see my response to Bob D. below).  In fact, I weigh 225, and it's quite stable when I stand on it once it's fully assembled.  Note, though, that the screws that came with the piano hinges that I purchased are actually about 5/8" long, so after I assembled the bench and screwed the hinges on it was necessary for me to use my Dremel to grind down the points of the screws, whereby you can see small "burn" marks which occurred when the Dremel bit bottomed out on the plywood.

@Bob D.

As I said, in an earlier post, the problem that I saw with the table in the YouTube post was that it required very accurate mortice cuts through the top, while requiring similarly accurate tenon cuts on the long sides.  Also, to keep the top level, the length of the tenons had to exactly match the thickness of the top.  As the ends are each made of two pieces with hinges that allow the two piece ends to fold inward when the base is collapsed, the bottom piece adds a lot of structure to force each of the two piece ends outward, thereby strengthening the base, while the mortice/tenon attachment of the top to the long sides in the YouTube video only urged the two ends to stay "opened" when the top was in place.  My alternate, more secure, and much simpler, approach was to cut the sides with straight tops, i.e., without tenons.  Instead, I took a piece of aluminum angle (1" x 1") , and I cut it into eight pieces (for each top), each of which was about 1 1/2" long.  I drilled a pair of screw holes into each of the angle pieces to allow them to be screwed into the underside of the top.  I then opened the base fully, placed the top on top of the base, and placed two of the angles on the underside of the top adjacent to each of the side pieces using double sided tape.  Once those four were screwed into place, I used the other four angles under the ends of the top to push the ends out (one angle on the inside of each of the four end pieces), thereby forcing the end hinges to stay fully open.  Once the angles are screwed into place under each of the tops, the tops need merely be placed on the base while holding the end pieces fully open, and the aluminum angles hold everything in place, forcing (rather than urging) the ends to remain fully open.  Unlike the YouTube version, mine requires no measuring, it "self-aligns", and there is no issue with the tenons being too low or too proud of the top, which retains a totally flat upper surface.  That was especially important when I adapted the Router Table top to the base.

If there is sufficient interest in plans, I could, certainly, put a set together, so, guys, let me know if there's interest.

Here ya go...

In looking at my own photo, my earlier description was a bit inaccurate, as I actually used three angles along each side, for a total of six along the sides, rather than four.  I used two along each end, so that there was one on each of the four end panels.

Note that while I used aluminum angles, you could also use wood blocks, as the important things are only that (a) the inside distance between the outside edges of the angles/blocks be the same as the distances between the sides/ends; (b) with respect to the ends, it's best if the ends/blocks are relatively close to the middle of the top to insure that the hinges are fully opened when the top is in place; and (c) the dimensions of the sides/ends should be such that the tops of the sides/ends will not interfere with the holes in the top.  Note that the angles/blocks can be placed between the holes, as shown, so that they don't interfere with any clamps, etc. inserted into the holes once the top is in place.

As you can see, this approach, unlike the ones shown by Coach.carpenter and/or fyme, is very simple, requires no special cuts in either the sides/ends and/or top, and can be readily adapted to existing tops, like the router table that I have had for several years.  Consequently, if you are going to a job site, or you need space in a small shop, you need only have one set of sides/ends and one bottom panel, while you can have a number of different, interchangeable, tops, i.e., MFT, sacrificial top for breaking down sheet goods, router table, Bessey clamp table, Kreg-type clamp table (with T-track), downdraft sanding, etc., basically an endless variety of tops with only a single base.  Alternatively, you can have multiple bases that can be stored (folded up) in very little shop/vehicle space.  I should also add that if you have an idea for a new type of bench you can easily prototype it by making only the top which can then be placed in position on the base.  By way of example, I have built a number of rocking horses for my grandchildren, and I keep thinking that it would be great to have a "sky hook" to hold the body up, while trying to arrange the legs and rockers in position for assembly.

If the photos and explanations were not adequate, I am willing to prepare plans, which I will make available for a nominal price.  Also, I have a Shaper Origin, so I am thinking of creating a set of CNC files for it to make either entire units or router templates.

Sandy