Author Topic: Hexagonal Dining Table  (Read 1098 times)

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Offline Ziya

  • Posts: 3
Hexagonal Dining Table
« on: January 07, 2018, 08:42 PM »
Hello all.  I have a family of five and a rectangular kitchen table that leaves me feeling too separated from whomever is seated on the other end of the table.  To that end I’m in the first stages of designing a hexagonal replacement.  I’m considering which of two table top styles to build:  creating six equilateral triangles that would be joined on the two end-grain sides versus building a linear “slab” of edge connected boards.

The triangles idea seems much more aesthetically pleasing as there wouldn’t be any end-grain showing, allows me to toy with the idea of using different types of wood in the various triangles, or using a contrasting wood between triangles, etc.  this design does seem significantly more complicated (though not beyond my ability).  The triangles would probably be joined with dominos though the idea of sliding dovetails is also floating about.  I’m concerned about wood movement creating problems in the future.

Would using 1/4 sawn wood be indicated for this design?  Are there any wood species to favor or dismiss?

The linear slab seems considerably easier but really lacking in aesthetics.

Ideally, either design will incorporate a built-in lazy Susan.

Sorry, despite have very decent computer skills, I design on graph paper and don’t use sketchup. 

Any input into this idea would be most welcome.

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Offline ChuckM

  • Posts: 414
Re: Hexagonal Dining Table
« Reply #1 on: January 07, 2018, 10:40 PM »
An image (camera or scan) of your sketch?

Offline neilc

  • Posts: 2317
Re: Hexagonal Dining Table
« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2018, 10:43 PM »
Welcome to FOG! 

Cool idea you are considering.  I like the idea of either quarter-sawn or rift-sawn lumber.  Another potential idea would be to look at a wood like Sapele.  It's got wonderful lines in it and might make a cool design with the grain running around the top.

Not sure if I'd mix and match different woods on the top.  With six pieces it could be a little jarring to have so much going on.  You could certainly consider alternative woods as an accent - perhaps on the side thickness of the top or on the base / leg structure.

Sliding dovetails along that size piece could be a real challenge to create and then assemble.  Dominos are certainly easier!

Not sure if you've seen any of these tables but your idea reminded me of them.  I think the originals were started in England.  They support expanding leaves, but the triangle idea might give you some inspiration.  This table was done by @Rick Christopherson who is a member here on FOG.

http://www.waterfront-woods.com  - look down the left side for expanding round table...

Neil

Offline lwoirhaye

  • Posts: 125
Re: Hexagonal Dining Table
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2018, 12:51 AM »
I've participated in discussions for this sort of table project in the past.  Wood movement is a problem.  Just as the miters in a wide picture frame will misbehave seasonally, so will the table joints.

Veneer or a frame and panel top are better choices imo if you want the hexagonal look.  With a decent band saw you can resaw your own quartered oak veneer.  You can buy veneer of course but shop made has its charms.  With the frame and panel approach crumbs will get into the gaps which may be an annoyance.  Looks nice though, and very stable.

Offline Ziya

  • Posts: 3
Hexagonal Dining Table
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2018, 11:50 PM »
Thanks for your responses!  So I like the way you think Neil, but instead of Sapele I was considering using rose wood with its even stronger lines. I’ve book matched it a couple times with beautiful results.  I haven’t used sapele yet but will check it out next time I’m hunting wood.  I’ve seen the expanding tables and frankly they frighten me from an engineering standpoint.  I like the look when they are closed down though and it will certainly help to study those designs.

Iwoirhaye - I like the frame and panel approach but know that with 3 children those gaps would quickly become gooey nightmares!  I’ll have to think on the veneer idea as that technique is new to me.  So the reason I’d considered doing sliding dovetails in a frame is so I could let the triangles basically float in the frame (I.e. no glue) thus allowing them to expand and contract but without the gaps inherent in frame and panel joinery. Does that make sense?

Ziya


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« Last Edit: January 08, 2018, 11:57 PM by Ziya »