Frank Stacho
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Location: Atlanta USA Member Since: Feb 2011
Posts: 40
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« on: May 12, 2011, 05:05 PM » |
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Hi all, This is my own design writing desk. Is made of poplar wood. Panels is beaded face frame style. Also I did finish. I used about eighty dominos. No screw or nails! Used Festool tools: Domino DTS 400 EQ ETS 150/3 CT 36 E Boom Arm      
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CT 36 E - boom arm - Domino DF 500Q set - DTS 400 EQ - RO 150 FEQ - ETS 150/3 - TS-55 - MFT/3 Multifunction Table - FS 3000/2 Guide Rail - T15+3 Drill set - Centrotec Installers Set - LR 32 hole drilling set - OF 1400 EQ
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Wood_Junkie
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Location: Madison, Wisconsin - USA Member Since: Dec 2009
Posts: 1303
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« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2011, 05:13 PM » |
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Really nice desk! You did a fantastic job finishing, it looks like cherry or Jatoba.
I like the design and your details. The stopped roundovers, along with the tapered feet give a really interesting look. The cove on the underside is a subtle "secret" touch.
Cope & stick bits for the face frame?
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Frank Stacho
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Location: Atlanta USA Member Since: Feb 2011
Posts: 40
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« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2011, 05:20 PM » |
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Really nice desk! You did a fantastic job finishing, it looks like cherry or Jatoba.
I like the design and your details. The stopped roundovers, along with the tapered feet give a really interesting look. The cove on the underside is a subtle "secret" touch.
Cope & stick bits for the face frame?
I used Kreg PRS 1200 precision beaded face frame system. Finish is traditional cherry.
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CT 36 E - boom arm - Domino DF 500Q set - DTS 400 EQ - RO 150 FEQ - ETS 150/3 - TS-55 - MFT/3 Multifunction Table - FS 3000/2 Guide Rail - T15+3 Drill set - Centrotec Installers Set - LR 32 hole drilling set - OF 1400 EQ
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Alex
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Location: The Netherlands Member Since: Nov 2008
Posts: 2798
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« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2011, 05:27 PM » |
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I like the design very much. I would only have prefered to see it stay a light colour, a shame you used such a dark finish.
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gates559
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Location: Nova Scotia Canada Member Since: Mar 2008
Posts: 51
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« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2011, 05:35 PM » |
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The desk turned out great. What is poplar worth per board ft compared to maple/birch in your area if you don't mind telling.
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Frank Stacho
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Location: Atlanta USA Member Since: Feb 2011
Posts: 40
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« Reply #5 on: May 12, 2011, 05:44 PM » |
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The desk turned out great. What is poplar worth per board ft compared to maple/birch in your area if you don't mind telling.
Poplar is $1.29 per board ft. I don't know how much is maple!
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CT 36 E - boom arm - Domino DF 500Q set - DTS 400 EQ - RO 150 FEQ - ETS 150/3 - TS-55 - MFT/3 Multifunction Table - FS 3000/2 Guide Rail - T15+3 Drill set - Centrotec Installers Set - LR 32 hole drilling set - OF 1400 EQ
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RL
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Location: Canada Member Since: Feb 2010
Posts: 2114
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« Reply #6 on: May 12, 2011, 05:55 PM » |
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Very nice job. Good clean design and excellent finish.
Thanks for posting.
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I like green.
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Jay Knoll
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Feb 2007
Posts: 131
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« Reply #7 on: May 12, 2011, 06:25 PM » |
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Great work and a fantastic finishing job. Do you have any in progress photos?
Thanks for the post
Jay
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Frank Stacho
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Location: Atlanta USA Member Since: Feb 2011
Posts: 40
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« Reply #8 on: May 12, 2011, 06:38 PM » |
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Great work and a fantastic finishing job. Do you have any in progress photos?
Thanks for the post
Jay
No I don't have any progress photos. I have just SketchUp drawing! Sorry!
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CT 36 E - boom arm - Domino DF 500Q set - DTS 400 EQ - RO 150 FEQ - ETS 150/3 - TS-55 - MFT/3 Multifunction Table - FS 3000/2 Guide Rail - T15+3 Drill set - Centrotec Installers Set - LR 32 hole drilling set - OF 1400 EQ
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Jesse Cloud
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Location: Placitas, NM Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 1450
Festooling at the end of a dirt road in New Mexico
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« Reply #9 on: May 12, 2011, 06:39 PM » |
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Well done! It looks great. Some people look down on poplar, but with the right finish, it looks great (and you can use the money you saved on more Festools!).
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Tim Raleigh
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Location: Oakville Canada Member Since: Jan 2010
Posts: 1668
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« Reply #10 on: May 12, 2011, 06:50 PM » |
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Hi all, This is my own design writing desk. Is made of poplar wood.
Frank looks great! I love working with poplar, and you really got a nice finish. How was the top made, is the center panel (surrounded by the mitered frame) veneered or solid? Is there a relief edge for structural reasons or design? Tim
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gates559
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Location: Nova Scotia Canada Member Since: Mar 2008
Posts: 51
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« Reply #11 on: May 12, 2011, 06:55 PM » |
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$1.29 a bd/ft wow, thanks, I always wonder why so many people build from popular. Where I am at I can buy birch for $2.35 Bd/ft and poplar is over $3.00 per bd/ft 
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Frank Stacho
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Location: Atlanta USA Member Since: Feb 2011
Posts: 40
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« Reply #12 on: May 12, 2011, 07:13 PM » |
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Hi all, This is my own design writing desk. Is made of poplar wood.
Frank looks great! I love working with poplar, and you really got a nice finish. How was the top made, is the center panel (surrounded by the mitered frame) veneered or solid? Is there a relief edge for structural reasons or design? Tim Hi Tim, the top is glued 3/4 solid poplar,mitered frame is one inch thick.I used 24 dominos join mitered frame with center panel. The grove from the top is just 1/16 depth. Bottom overhang is 1 1/2 inch. It is very solid! Thanks to the Festool domino!  Frank
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CT 36 E - boom arm - Domino DF 500Q set - DTS 400 EQ - RO 150 FEQ - ETS 150/3 - TS-55 - MFT/3 Multifunction Table - FS 3000/2 Guide Rail - T15+3 Drill set - Centrotec Installers Set - LR 32 hole drilling set - OF 1400 EQ
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LostInTheWood
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Location: USA Member Since: Jan 2011
Posts: 112
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« Reply #13 on: May 12, 2011, 07:31 PM » |
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That's beautiful, nice job! I like the stout legs....gives it some visual weight. Now show us the pics you have of making the chair 
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kfitzsimons
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Location: Columbus, Ohio Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 264
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« Reply #14 on: May 12, 2011, 09:40 PM » |
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Frank, I really like the finish. Did you seal the wood with anything before staining? What brand / type of stain (wipe on, gel, etc.)? Final finish coat? Poly? Very nice design also. Kevin
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Frank Stacho
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Location: Atlanta USA Member Since: Feb 2011
Posts: 40
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« Reply #15 on: May 12, 2011, 11:00 PM » |
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Frank, I really like the finish. Did you seal the wood with anything before staining? What brand / type of stain (wipe on, gel, etc.)? Final finish coat? Poly? Very nice design also. Kevin
Here is finish process: sprayer Fuji super 4 gold HVLP 1. sending up to 180 grid with ETS 150/3 2. two coats of Charles Neil's pre-color conditioner (water base) 3. two coats M.L. Campbell spray &wipe stains high performance wood song II, traditional cherry (oil base stain) I spray stain and then wipe of with cloth 4. one coat shellac Zinsser bulls eys seal coat 5. two top coat with M.L. Campbell magna max high performance pre catalyzed lacquer semi-gloss I hope this info help you! Thank you. Frank
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CT 36 E - boom arm - Domino DF 500Q set - DTS 400 EQ - RO 150 FEQ - ETS 150/3 - TS-55 - MFT/3 Multifunction Table - FS 3000/2 Guide Rail - T15+3 Drill set - Centrotec Installers Set - LR 32 hole drilling set - OF 1400 EQ
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dharmon
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Location: Everett, Washington, USA Member Since: Nov 2007
Posts: 16
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« Reply #16 on: May 12, 2011, 11:38 PM » |
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This looks great! I like that you didn't use fasteners, but, how did you attach the top?
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Frank Stacho
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Location: Atlanta USA Member Since: Feb 2011
Posts: 40
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« Reply #17 on: May 12, 2011, 11:53 PM » |
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This looks great! I like that you didn't use fasteners, but, how did you attach the top?
Easy answer! Of curse with domino! 
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CT 36 E - boom arm - Domino DF 500Q set - DTS 400 EQ - RO 150 FEQ - ETS 150/3 - TS-55 - MFT/3 Multifunction Table - FS 3000/2 Guide Rail - T15+3 Drill set - Centrotec Installers Set - LR 32 hole drilling set - OF 1400 EQ
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Ken Nagrod
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Location: New Jersey Member Since: Jul 2010
Posts: 3438
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« Reply #18 on: May 13, 2011, 01:00 AM » |
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Very nice work, Frank. The way I look at it, poplar is still a lot cheaper than gas, by me. Heck, even maple is cheaper! 
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CDM
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Location: Chicago, IL, USA Member Since: Dec 2010
Posts: 90
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« Reply #19 on: May 13, 2011, 07:23 AM » |
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Cool project.
Here in Chicagoland curly maple is around US $8-$9/bf at my local woodworking store and unfigured or plain is around US $10.50/bf at my local hardware store. In the grand tradition of Illinois politics, you have to pay if you want to play.
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
Posts: 5165
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« Reply #20 on: May 13, 2011, 08:06 AM » |
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I like the design very much. I would only have prefered to see it stay a light colour, a shame you used such a dark finish.
Same here I thought looks really nice and done a good job and then I scrolled down to see it finished in a dark colour I thought what a shame. As I think a lighter colour would of looked mint. I can see your bed is dark also so I suppose you gotta keep it looking the same. It's a USA thing though you seem to do furniture darker kinda behind times out dated here in uk and Europe. Jmb
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« Last Edit: May 13, 2011, 08:08 AM by jmbfestool »
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Tim Raleigh
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Location: Oakville Canada Member Since: Jan 2010
Posts: 1668
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« Reply #21 on: May 13, 2011, 10:56 AM » |
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Here is finish process: sprayer Fuji super 4 gold HVLP 1. sending up to 180 grid with ETS 150/3 2. two coats of Charles Neil's pre-color conditioner (water base) 3. two coats M.L. Campbell spray &wipe stains high performance wood song II, traditional cherry (oil base stain) I spray stain and then wipe of with cloth 4. one coat shellac Zinsser bulls eys seal coat 5. two top coat with M.L. Campbell magna max high performance pre catalyzed lacquer semi-gloss I hope this info help you! Thank you. Frank
Frank: That top (grain) looks great. I have a Fuji 4 gold as well and I like it for certain things. I find it is very easy to clean and maintain. It works great for coatings with low percentage of solids but when you get into primers and pigmented coatings you have to be careful or you get a lot of orange peel or fish eyes. Have you tried ML Campbell's water borne products? Tim
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Frank Stacho
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Location: Atlanta USA Member Since: Feb 2011
Posts: 40
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« Reply #22 on: May 13, 2011, 06:29 PM » |
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Here is finish process: sprayer Fuji super 4 gold HVLP 1. sending up to 180 grid with ETS 150/3 2. two coats of Charles Neil's pre-color conditioner (water base) 3. two coats M.L. Campbell spray &wipe stains high performance wood song II, traditional cherry (oil base stain) I spray stain and then wipe of with cloth 4. one coat shellac Zinsser bulls eys seal coat 5. two top coat with M.L. Campbell magna max high performance pre catalyzed lacquer semi-gloss I hope this info help you! Thank you. Frank
Frank: That top (grain) looks great. I have a Fuji 4 gold as well and I like it for certain things. I find it is very easy to clean and maintain. It works great for coatings with low percentage of solids but when you get into primers and pigmented coatings you have to be careful or you get a lot of orange peel or fish eyes. Have you tried ML Campbell's water borne products? Tim Tim: Im not yet tried ML Campbell's water borne products. Frank
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CT 36 E - boom arm - Domino DF 500Q set - DTS 400 EQ - RO 150 FEQ - ETS 150/3 - TS-55 - MFT/3 Multifunction Table - FS 3000/2 Guide Rail - T15+3 Drill set - Centrotec Installers Set - LR 32 hole drilling set - OF 1400 EQ
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Eli
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Location: Melbourne, Australia Member Since: Jul 2007
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A Yankee in Kangaroo Court
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« Reply #23 on: May 14, 2011, 03:55 AM » |
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Nice work Frank
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Do nothing, stay ahead.
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Kevin Stricker
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Feb 2009
Posts: 437
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« Reply #24 on: May 14, 2011, 07:37 PM » |
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Frank: That top (grain) looks great. I have a Fuji 4 gold as well and I like it for certain things. I find it is very easy to clean and maintain. It works great for coatings with low percentage of solids but when you get into primers and pigmented coatings you have to be careful or you get a lot of orange peel or fish eyes. Have you tried ML Campbell's water borne products? Tim
I get perfect pigmented finishes with my Fuji. You just need to thin and use the appropriate tip. I stick with BIN shellac primers, which can be sprayed with a #3 or #4 tip. I just got a second gun and a PPS setup for both. Lovin it. Great desk!!
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