jacko9
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Location: USA Member Since: Apr 2010
Posts: 733
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« on: February 12, 2012, 06:42 PM » |
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I just finished this mahogany hall table using my Festool Domino Joiner and my new ETS sander. This table is 33 inches high, 14 inches deep and 49 inches long. I finished the table with shellac, minwax wipe on poly and paste wax.
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RL
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Location: Canada Member Since: Feb 2010
Posts: 2155
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« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2012, 06:46 PM » |
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Fine work!
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I like green.
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Don T
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Location: Phoenix, AZ Member Since: Jan 2008
Posts: 611
Phoenix, Az
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« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2012, 07:04 PM » |
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Nice work Jack.
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RO150, C12, DF 500 Q, CT33, TS75, MFT3, Kapex 120, MFT3/Kapex, MFK 700, RO 90, ETS150/3, CT22, Centrotec Installers Kit
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Sal LiVecchi
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Location: Sayville, NY USA Member Since: Sep 2010
Posts: 882
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« Reply #3 on: February 12, 2012, 07:28 PM » |
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Nice Table....Great Job
Sal
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Life is too short and the road is too long to drive anything less than a Festool
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Alex
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Location: The Netherlands Member Since: Nov 2008
Posts: 2875
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« Reply #4 on: February 12, 2012, 08:03 PM » |
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Elegant design.
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jacko9
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Location: USA Member Since: Apr 2010
Posts: 733
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« Reply #5 on: February 12, 2012, 09:15 PM » |
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Elegant design.
Thanks Alec, the design is in the American Shaker style. My wife wanted a table for our entry and being the "perfect customer" it had to be; not too small, not too big, not too short and not too tall and oh by the way don't have it interfere with her plants!  She loves it! |
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Ken Nagrod
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Location: New Jersey Member Since: Jul 2010
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« Reply #6 on: February 12, 2012, 09:26 PM » |
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I agree with Alex. Very elegant.  |
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honeydokreg
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Location: Woodstock GA Member Since: Feb 2007
Posts: 1510
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« Reply #7 on: February 12, 2012, 11:37 PM » |
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jack o nice work, it is not easy to make furniture like that and you did a nice job.. takes patients and of course ....... festools !
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unityroad
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: May 2009
Posts: 37
photos
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« Reply #8 on: February 13, 2012, 06:19 AM » |
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Nice job, funny to me tho .I didnt think anyone had land phone lines anymore  |
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jacko9
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Location: USA Member Since: Apr 2010
Posts: 733
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« Reply #9 on: February 13, 2012, 10:25 AM » |
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Nice job, funny to me tho .I didnt think anyone had land phone lines anymore  My wife refuses to give up her land line, my small cell phone was behind the answering machine! |
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Nick2cd
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Location: USA Member Since: Jan 2012
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« Reply #10 on: February 14, 2012, 03:23 PM » |
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Very classy!
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jacko9
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Location: USA Member Since: Apr 2010
Posts: 733
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« Reply #11 on: April 17, 2012, 07:45 PM » |
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Hey people, my wife would like a mahogany mirror to mount on the wall over this hall table, anybody have a design that might work in this situation?
The original design that I thought I might copy seems to be a bit large for a 8' high wall, see photo attached. My wife likes this design however, I think that the original designer did this on a 14' high (or higher) wall in a very large entry.
Thanks,
Jack
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Vindingo
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Location: North Jersey Member Since: Jan 2009
Posts: 409
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« Reply #12 on: April 17, 2012, 08:50 PM » |
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Why not scale it down so it fits in the space? Maybe change the proportions so it is more horizontal as opposed to square-ish as pictured.
You could also make the pegs for the frame out of a contrasting wood, then to tie the pieces together, make a drawer pull out of the same wood.
The mirror you posted has a slight curve which mimics the apron of the table, yours is flat. I think your mirror would lend it self to details with a little less flourish: less Greene and Green, more rectilinear.
Hopes that sparks some ideas...
good luck!
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jacko9
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Location: USA Member Since: Apr 2010
Posts: 733
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« Reply #13 on: April 17, 2012, 09:51 PM » |
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Why not scale it down so it fits in the space? Maybe change the proportions so it is more horizontal as opposed to square-ish as pictured.
You could also make the pegs for the frame out of a contrasting wood, then to tie the pieces together, make a drawer pull out of the same wood.
The mirror you posted has a slight curve which mimics the apron of the table, yours is flat. I think your mirror would lend it self to details with a little less flourish: less Greene and Green, more rectilinear.
Hopes that sparks some ideas...
good luck!
Yes, I think your observation is right on. I just did a scale model of what your talking about and just finished bandsawing some rough 8/4 mahogany. I'm thinking about 26" high by 38" wide overall, just need to work out a few details but, I have an idea now.
Thanks for the insight,
Jack
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jacko9
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Location: USA Member Since: Apr 2010
Posts: 733
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« Reply #14 on: April 24, 2012, 08:11 PM » |
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Why not scale it down so it fits in the space? Maybe change the proportions so it is more horizontal as opposed to square-ish as pictured.
You could also make the pegs for the frame out of a contrasting wood, then to tie the pieces together, make a drawer pull out of the same wood.
The mirror you posted has a slight curve which mimics the apron of the table, yours is flat. I think your mirror would lend it self to details with a little less flourish: less Greene and Green, more rectilinear.
Hopes that sparks some ideas...
good luck!
Vinny, I took your advise and did a little scaling on the matching mirror. I'll try to get some better pictures tomorrow when I get some better light. I did use my Domino joiner to cut the 10mm through mortises with Paul's technique for a wider mortise. Jack |
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« Last Edit: April 24, 2012, 08:15 PM by jacko9 »
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neilc
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Location: chicagoland Member Since: Jan 2007
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« Reply #15 on: April 24, 2012, 09:40 PM » |
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Nice work Jack - like the proportions on the mirror. Can you show some close-up photos of the corner joints on it? Is the wood mahogany?
neil
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jacko9
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Location: USA Member Since: Apr 2010
Posts: 733
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« Reply #16 on: April 24, 2012, 10:06 PM » |
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Nice work Jack - like the proportions on the mirror. Can you show some close-up photos of the corner joints on it? Is the wood mahogany?
neil
Neil, The mirror is made with Honduras Mahogany (the same as the table). I used my domino joiner to cut 10mm through mortise and tenon joints. After cutting the joints I used a hand scraper to relieve the otter portions of the through tenons to allow glue clearance. I'll post better pictures tomorrow. |
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Vindingo
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Location: North Jersey Member Since: Jan 2009
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« Reply #17 on: April 25, 2012, 09:41 PM » |
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Looks good, I'd love to see some more detailed photos.
So did you finish the wood on the inside of the rabbet for the mirror?
I did a painted mirror frame once, and didn't paint in the rabbet. Stupid me didn't realize you could actually see inside the frame because of the mirror. As I took it apart to repaint the frame, I broke the mirror. A mistake I shall never make again, and now I still have 3 more years of bad luck coming to me.
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Tom Bellemare
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Location: Austin, Texas - USA Member Since: Nov 2007
Posts: 3625
Festool demo's & personal service in Central Texas
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« Reply #18 on: April 26, 2012, 12:48 AM » |
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Looks good, I'd love to see some more detailed photos.
So did you finish the wood on the inside of the rabbet for the mirror?
I did a painted mirror frame once, and didn't paint in the rabbet. Stupid me didn't realize you could actually see inside the frame because of the mirror. As I took it apart to repaint the frame, I broke the mirror. A mistake I shall never make again, and now I still have 3 more years of bad luck coming to me.
I made the same mistake once.... Always finish the the mirror rabbets or you will regret it. They reflect in the mirror and it is pretty obvious. BTW, Jack, that turned out really nice! Tom |
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« Last Edit: April 26, 2012, 04:50 AM by Tom Bellemare »
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PaulMarcel
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Location: Chandler AZ USA Member Since: Mar 2008
Posts: 1195
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« Reply #19 on: April 26, 2012, 03:12 AM » |
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Looks good, I'd love to see some more detailed photos.
So did you finish the wood on the inside of the rabbet for the mirror?
I did a painted mirror frame once, and didn't paint in the rabbet. Stupid me didn't realize you could actually see inside the frame because of the mirror. As I took it apart to repaint the frame, I broke the mirror. A mistake I shall never make again, and now I still have 3 more years of bad luck coming to me.
I made 2 side-by-side mirrors and made that mistake. grrr Never again! (I hope!) Beautiful table and mirror; nice job on scaling the proportions down. That whole entryway area looks really nice. |
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Visit my blog for Festool adventures Shirt size: L  Twitter: @HalfInchShy |
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jacko9
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Location: USA Member Since: Apr 2010
Posts: 733
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« Reply #20 on: April 26, 2012, 12:08 PM » |
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Guys,
I had forgotten about finishing the inside of the rabbit but, I got lucky because I spent so much time on the edges there was overlap onto the rabbit edge.
The posts were 1 3/8 square and the through mortises were cut with the 10mm Domino cutter plunged in from both sides. I then used a chisel to square the rounded over mortises. The long tenons were first cut on the table saw with a 10" blade and then I had to finish the cut with a Japanese hand saw to get the 4" long tenons. I was going to wedge the outside of the through mortises but the fit was so tight I decided that they looked clean as cut.
I did get carried away with my RO 90 and the Platen 2 pads to buff out the Minwax Wipe-On Poly.
When the mirror frame was finished I opened the brown wrapped mirror from the glass shop and found a nice piece of plain glass. Back to the glass shop were they promptly cut me a mirror but when I got it back to my shop, the idiots cut it 1/16 oversize in both dimensions! I figured that if I went back to the glass shop it might have gotten ugly so, I just opened the rabbit a bit more with a router and chisel.
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