jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
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« on: July 25, 2012, 05:09 PM » |
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Oak truss
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« Last Edit: May 08, 2013, 09:59 AM by jmbfestool »
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Wooden Lungs
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Location: Ireland / UK Member Since: Apr 2011
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« Reply #1 on: July 25, 2012, 05:18 PM » |
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Have a look at some softwood sarking. Looks great in a vaulted roof. The scots love it! can be left raw but clear treated.
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Don't do anything by half. If you love someone, love them with all your soul. When you go to work, work your off. When you hate someone, hate them until it hurts.
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2012, 05:37 PM » |
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Guy Ashley
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Location: Northampton, UK Member Since: Feb 2010
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Furniture & Cabinet Maker/Joiner
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« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2012, 05:47 PM » |
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DIPLOMACY:
"The art of being able to tell someone to go to Hades in such a way that they positively look forward to the journey"
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #4 on: July 25, 2012, 05:53 PM » |
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woodguy7
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Location: wick, scotland Member Since: Apr 2009
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« Reply #5 on: July 25, 2012, 06:28 PM » |
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Oh, hit a nerve there  |
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
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windmill man
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Location: Lancashire UK Member Since: Aug 2007
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« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2012, 05:34 PM » |
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Evening Brett, Now I am going to be nice. Ok  The section, size and layout of the truss will be dictated by the loads applied to it and the design of the roof in general. Truss design is not really about the aesthetics , its more about function. Although you can over engineer, to make it more interesting, but you have to get the basic structural elements in place or it will fail. Are the trusses intermediate or gable or both. Each have their own requirements. The best belt and braces truss is the jointed truss with king post and braces from the bottom of the king post to the underside of the purlin seat. You really should get a structural engineer to design and spec the design and section. You may think "not going to bother with the SE" and just up the sizes of the timber section. This can work against you , because the weight and mass of the Oak then becomes a larger factor in the structural load capacity of the truss. (as it has to carry its own increasing weight) John |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #7 on: July 26, 2012, 05:48 PM » |
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That did sound nice  A structural engineer has been contacted by the clients already because they where going to get one made by a company OR get the other joiner to make one cus he said he can make oak trusses (not long after that saying tanalised rafters will look fine with an oak truss). so I decided it wont be done right and accepted to take the job on which the client was pleased about! Soo now I want to make sure I do something which isnt just box standard. Ill see if I can talk 2 the structural engineer to the designs I would like to use to see what he says. Its just ONE oak truss in the middle. Ill do a drawin to how I would like it all to look JMB |
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windmill man
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Location: Lancashire UK Member Since: Aug 2007
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« Reply #8 on: July 26, 2012, 06:15 PM » |
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Well if its only one, you could concider a a truss with a tie at midpoint with a through king post with a hanging finial. They look pretty. You could use ornate metal work gussets and straps. I am rather fond of stopped chamfer with a simple inverted dart at the end of the chamfer or just the bevelled stop to the chamfer. Staff bead also looks good. Both of the above mouldings would give you chance to swing some big cutters in the 2200. John |
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finley
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Location: Hereford Member Since: Jul 2012
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« Reply #9 on: July 27, 2012, 06:21 AM » |
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Whenever I do an oak garage and the client wants keep the cost down I always sagest softwood feather edge board and paint them with black barn stain also know as architectural black. Il see if I can find you a photo
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awil66
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Location: USA Member Since: Feb 2011
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« Reply #10 on: July 27, 2012, 08:31 AM » |
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I would love to see a picture of what you guys are talking about. How does only one truss figure in the construction of a roof?
Things seem different over there.
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Nigel
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Location: France Member Since: Apr 2009
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« Reply #11 on: July 27, 2012, 10:57 AM » |
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You could use Poplar for sarking.
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finley
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Location: Hereford Member Since: Jul 2012
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« Reply #12 on: July 27, 2012, 01:57 PM » |
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heres a couple of ideas |
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windmill man
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Location: Lancashire UK Member Since: Aug 2007
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« Reply #13 on: July 27, 2012, 03:12 PM » |
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Awil66 In this instance the purlns will be seated at either end in masonary gables and the truss will be used as an intermediate support. (I think , if I understand it properly) The cladding is not for the external of the building ,but for the under side of the roof above the rafters but below the lathe and tile or slate ( over boarding).(I think , if I understand it properly) JMB will be along shortly to sort it out |
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awil66
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Location: USA Member Since: Feb 2011
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« Reply #14 on: July 27, 2012, 05:13 PM » |
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Ahh. Thank you. Purlins could potentially be very long, at least half the building length if only one truss in the middle? I think building code doesn't alow us to build like that over here in the US northeast. i have never seen new work like this.
So the single truss supports the purlins and the actual roofing material? And an engineer or architect would sign off on that?
Interesting, and obviously since you guys all know about it, it's a tried and true practice over there. Love to see some construction pics.
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Deansocial
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Location: derbyshire, uk Member Since: Mar 2010
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« Reply #15 on: July 27, 2012, 05:38 PM » |
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Ahh. Thank you. Purlins could potentially be very long, at least half the building length if only one truss in the middle? I think building code doesn't alow us to build like that over here in the US northeast. i have never seen new work like this.
So the single truss supports the purlins and the actual roofing material? And an engineer or architect would sign off on that?
Interesting, and obviously since you guys all know about it, it's a tried and true practice over there. Love to see some construction pics.
Not that long its only a garage |
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mattfc
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Location: Hertfordshire, UK Member Since: Oct 2008
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« Reply #16 on: July 28, 2012, 03:18 AM » |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #17 on: July 28, 2012, 04:13 AM » |
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It isn't that kinda building. It's brick work gable ends but one end is attached to another large gable end building the back wall is solid brick wall and the front has a brick pillar with two steels running across to create the double garage. The building is old and the roof needs replacing. The client asked me if it was okay to get some other joiners in to just renew the roof. I said it was fine but then asked the client what are the joiners going to do seen as the building is not having any garage doors on. They said the joiners said they will get a steel ridge beam and stick new rafters on. I thought that would look ugly! I suggested what would be nice is to knock down the brick pillar and remove the steels then take the roof down and put up a oak post and build a oak truss to sit on the post and oak wall plates and with curved gallow brackets and braces. The client thought about it for 2seconds and loved it. l |
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« Last Edit: July 28, 2012, 06:07 AM by jmbfestool »
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #18 on: July 28, 2012, 06:11 AM » |
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Here you go done a quick sketch up not completed cus takes to long but you get the idea of what im looking for. It will have open eaves so no facia and sofit so the rafters will have a shape on the ends of them not decided what shape yet nothing to fancy really.   |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #19 on: July 28, 2012, 06:16 AM » |
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windmill man
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Location: Lancashire UK Member Since: Aug 2007
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« Reply #20 on: July 28, 2012, 08:21 AM » |
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Brett,
whats the roof in? slate , tile, shingle?
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #21 on: July 28, 2012, 08:23 AM » |
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Brett,
whats the roof in? slate , tile, shingle?
Tiles Jmb |
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Deansocial
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Location: derbyshire, uk Member Since: Mar 2010
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« Reply #22 on: July 28, 2012, 08:26 AM » |
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I wouldnt house the purlin in like that
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #23 on: July 28, 2012, 08:32 AM » |
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I wouldnt house the purlin in like that
It's not fully housed in well it won't be in real life. Depending on cost etc it most likely be out of two pieces any way but just for ease on sketch up I have drawn it one full length. It will only be slightly housed either side with an upstand piece left in the middle and the perlin will have a slot. Any way what you think? Why should it not be housed? It will have a support bracket behind the perlin I just ain't drawn it on. Jmb |
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« Last Edit: July 28, 2012, 09:03 AM by jmbfestool »
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windmill man
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Location: Lancashire UK Member Since: Aug 2007
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« Reply #24 on: July 28, 2012, 08:37 AM » |
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i would think about lowering the heels of the arched tie. that will increase the tie effect and get it away from the pulin intersection. i would lay on the purlin ,in full section, with a butress block. if you can, carefully select the knee timbers and butresses and arch tie. grain orentation will be critical in those components.
john
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #25 on: July 28, 2012, 09:11 AM » |
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i would think about lowering the heels of the arched tie. that will increase the tie effect and get it away from the pulin intersection. i would lay on the purlin ,in full section, with a butress block. if you can, carefully select the knee timbers and butresses and arch tie. grain orentation will be critical in those components.
john
cheers. The drawing was only more of an idea than what it will truly be like due to the time it takes to draw on sketch up. A butress block I was always intending to use with a nice shape on it because I like the look of them just didnt draw one on the sketch up like I said to DeanSocial. Non of this is set in stone yet it could just end up being a standard oak truss like the picture I linked to below. Thank you for your advice appreciated.  |
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windmill man
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« Reply #26 on: July 28, 2012, 11:50 AM » |
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Brett,
I would not call those standard trusses and if you produced trusses identical to those , your client will be over the moon and you should be well happy with what you have created. The nice thing about doing stuff like this is it will be there for hundreds of years into the future.
John
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #27 on: July 28, 2012, 12:14 PM » |
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Brett,
I would not call those standard trusses and if you produced trusses identical to those , your client will be over the moon and you should be well happy with what you have created. The nice thing about doing stuff like this is it will be there for hundreds of years into the future.
John
lol I know I know, Its just that its a common truss I see often and I like to be different but also I don't feel its a very challenging truss to build but I can see its the one ill be going for mainly because of time and the client does want to keep the cost down. She said you recon it will take 2 weeks to build...........?! ummm I think I could easily do it in two weeks?! I prefer machining up the oak to get it straight and square but I dont enjoy doing that because the weight of the oak moving it about to much but I have found NO ONE gets it as straight and square to how I like it but getting it done for you will save ALOT of time and back problems and is cheaper lol JMB |
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« Last Edit: July 28, 2012, 12:17 PM by jmbfestool »
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mattfc
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« Reply #28 on: July 28, 2012, 02:40 PM » |
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Some nice truss porn here http://www.flickr.com/photos/glenfort/I quite like the matching old and new, where stainless steel plates and ties are use, much less material needed for components under tension |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #29 on: August 01, 2012, 02:50 PM » |
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So this topic might come to a stand still for a bit sorry!
JMB
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« Last Edit: May 08, 2013, 10:00 AM by jmbfestool »
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