Mike Chrest
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Location: Rochester,NY Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 386
N.W. New York State
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« Reply #30 on: August 18, 2008, 08:25 AM » |
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Thanks Dan, How many hours have you put into this project? I haven't totaled it up yet (don't want to think about it). I just send a bill every other week. I am still working on the second floor of the porch. I'm calling the first floor "phase one" and that is "complete" (still needs paint  ). I'll post some pictures Wensday. Mike
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Eli
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Location: Melbourne, Australia Member Since: Jul 2007
Posts: 2480
A Yankee in Kangaroo Court
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« Reply #31 on: August 18, 2008, 05:32 PM » |
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Sort of related topic Mike. Are you billing out milestones, T+M, Fortnightly rate, what have you? I guess you sold this one as, "It costs what it costs (I have no idea)"? 
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Do nothing, stay ahead.
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Mike Chrest
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Location: Rochester,NY Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 386
N.W. New York State
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« Reply #32 on: August 19, 2008, 01:35 PM » |
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Hi Eli, Time & materials  I have done a lot of work for these folks and we have a trusting relationship. I work as fast as I can with out sacrificing quality and they don't bug me about cost (too much)  I might be working at Home Depot after I finish this project. Don't have anything else lined up "It costs what it costs" They are kind of stuck with that because it is a landmark building (the owners can not change the exterior of the house with out a LOT of red tape) I did the underside of the porch roof a couple years ago (pre-Festool for me).  Mike
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« Last Edit: August 19, 2008, 02:10 PM by Mike Chrest »
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Neill
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Location: USA Member Since: Jun 2008
Posts: 888
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« Reply #33 on: August 19, 2008, 02:05 PM » |
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Mike -
I am sure that you will have no problem in getting more projects. Quality workmanship like you have demonstrated here is always in demand.
I hear that they may be covering the walls of the Grand Canyon in "ipe" to make it last longer. Any interest?
Neill
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« Last Edit: August 19, 2008, 02:58 PM by Neill »
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Kapex, Domino, MFT/3, Rotex 150 FEQ, CT 22E, TS 55, C12 Drill, 1400 Router, Rotex 90 DX, Rotex 125 FEQ, LS 130 EQ Linear, Parallel Guide Set, Deltex 93 E, Trion 300 Barrell Grip, ETS 150/3 EQ, ES125 EQ, Guide Rail Accessory Kit, Sanding Block, various rails, systainers, sortainers, vacuum hoses and accessories for various tools.
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Mike Chrest
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Location: Rochester,NY Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 386
N.W. New York State
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« Reply #34 on: August 19, 2008, 02:17 PM » |
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That's a pretty long commute from Rochester 
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Dovetail65
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Feb 2008
Posts: 3864
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« Reply #35 on: August 19, 2008, 02:24 PM » |
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"It costs what it costs" They are kind of stuck with that because it is a landmark building (the owners can not change the exterior of the house with out a LOT of red tape) Mike I am very surprised you can use anything but real wood. I had a plaqued "painted lady"(before it burned down) and the historical society at that time would not let us use anything other than original materials or as close as possible, that Azek would not have been approved.
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« Last Edit: August 19, 2008, 02:25 PM by nickao »
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The one who says it can't be done should avoid interrupting the person doing it.
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Mike Chrest
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Location: Rochester,NY Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 386
N.W. New York State
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« Reply #36 on: August 19, 2008, 07:17 PM » |
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« Last Edit: August 20, 2008, 09:19 AM by Mike Chrest »
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Mike Chrest
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Location: Rochester,NY Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 386
N.W. New York State
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« Reply #37 on: August 19, 2008, 07:22 PM » |
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Hello railing fans, Finally I got a chance to get some finished railing pics.  Gee they look just like the old ones  Photo shopped?? 
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« Last Edit: August 19, 2008, 07:24 PM by Mike Chrest »
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Mike Chrest
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Location: Rochester,NY Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 386
N.W. New York State
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« Reply #38 on: August 19, 2008, 07:26 PM » |
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A little Bondo and primer? 
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Mike Chrest
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Location: Rochester,NY Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 386
N.W. New York State
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« Reply #39 on: August 19, 2008, 07:30 PM » |
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On closer inspection.  We note that the profiles look amazingly sharp. Gone are the hundred years of paint. Must be really good photo shop  Will somebody please fill those nail holes 
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« Last Edit: August 20, 2008, 09:14 AM by Mike Chrest »
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Bill Wyko
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Location: Tucson AZ 30 miles from water, 3 feet from heck. Member Since: Mar 2008
Posts: 813
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« Reply #40 on: August 19, 2008, 08:35 PM » |
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WOW Mike! That turned out fantastic. Great job. 
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The bitterness of poor quality, lingers long after the cheap price is forgotten.
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Dan Clermont
Festool Dealer
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Location: Vancouver / Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 973
Canadian Festool Dealer
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« Reply #41 on: August 19, 2008, 08:39 PM » |
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Mike!
That looks absolutely awesome!!! Give yourself a pat on the back
Dan Clermont
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Canadian Festool Dealer and User!!! 778-558-7745
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neilc
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Location: chicagoland Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 702
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« Reply #42 on: August 19, 2008, 10:53 PM » |
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Mike - really great job - I'm amazed at how closely you were able to match the originals.
Thanks for sharing -
neil
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Mettes
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Location: Geel, Antwerp - Belgium Member Since: Mar 2008
Posts: 90
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« Reply #43 on: August 20, 2008, 01:54 AM » |
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Hey Mike,
great job, looks fantastic. And thanks for the detailed description could come in handy one day...
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Mike Chrest
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Location: Rochester,NY Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 386
N.W. New York State
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« Reply #44 on: August 20, 2008, 08:54 AM » |
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Hi Neil, I'm amazed at how closely you were able to match the originals I had a router bit custom ground to match the profile on the outer layer ($200  ). I'm being real careful around nails. Mike
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Mike Chrest
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Location: Rochester,NY Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 386
N.W. New York State
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« Reply #45 on: August 20, 2008, 09:01 AM » |
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Here's another trick for lengthening parts when you can't have any cavities near the seam (no pocket holes or blind holes).  I use this method on the bottom part of the rail. It gets beveled pretty drastically on top and any pockets in the laminations would be exposed. The left hand Jorgensen clamp straddles the seam and is slightly loose next to the seam. This helps align the parts horizontally. The weight of the clamps hold the parts in vertical alignment. The glued butt joints are not as strong as the original plastic but I stagger the seams when I laminate the rail. I thought scarf joints would be overkill  Mike
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« Last Edit: August 21, 2008, 09:08 AM by Mike Chrest »
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Colo timber
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Location: Littleton, CO Member Since: Jan 2008
Posts: 35
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« Reply #46 on: August 21, 2008, 12:49 AM » |
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Congratulations Mike, work truly worth being proud of.
Dan Judish
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qualitycustomcraftsman.com
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Colo timber
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Location: Littleton, CO Member Since: Jan 2008
Posts: 35
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« Reply #47 on: August 21, 2008, 01:59 PM » |
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Mike,
In reading the information on Azek's site it recommends using siding ss or ring shank nails to attach the product to the substrate. What do you use and if you are using round head nails how are you covering the heads of the nails when you finish. Additionally if you apply 4/4 trim to say a post do you also use construction adhesive as additional holding power?
Thanks
Dan Judish
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qualitycustomcraftsman.com
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Brice Burrell
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
Posts: 6215
Remodeling Contractor
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« Reply #48 on: August 21, 2008, 05:10 PM » |
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Dan, as you can see I'm not Mike but I use a ton of Azek each year. I use ss screws to attach the stuff and I've never used construction adhesive on wood (I did construction adhesive and tapcons to attach Azek to concrete). I use a body filler (Bondo) when painting and TrimBonder when it doesn't get painted.
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« Last Edit: August 22, 2008, 07:57 PM by Brice Burrell »
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Mike Chrest
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Location: Rochester,NY Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 386
N.W. New York State
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« Reply #49 on: August 22, 2008, 07:21 AM » |
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Hi Dan, For attaching say 1x4 trim to something I use these guys: http://www.swansecure.com/siding_fasteners/collated_nails/wire_coil_siding_nails.HTML For filling holes I use this: http://www.bondfill.com/products/.HTMLIt's a little on the expensive side and I haven't tried a lot of other products. For attaching something like the post cladding I would use stainless screws. I tried gluing some Azeck with construction adhesive and wasn't impressed by how well it stuck. I used polyurethane and it stuck somewhat but I could peel it off  I suggest getting some scrap and try your glue of choice. Perhaps I needed to sand the Azek first or wash it with TSP? Mike
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« Last Edit: August 22, 2008, 07:23 AM by Mike Chrest »
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Mike Chrest
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Location: Rochester,NY Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 386
N.W. New York State
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« Reply #50 on: August 22, 2008, 07:29 AM » |
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Hey Brice, How much does that Trim Bonder cost? Have you found it for sale online anywhere? Mike
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Dovetail65
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Feb 2008
Posts: 3864
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« Reply #51 on: August 22, 2008, 01:26 PM » |
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I had no idea it was real wood! I called after you stated that and they still consider it NOT authentic. Only material at the time of construction could be used. Mahogany etc. Oh well I guess in CA they are ahead of our Historical society here at accepting the look of authenticity instead of true authenticity. I would have used the Aztek. Railings look fantastic!
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« Last Edit: August 22, 2008, 01:40 PM by nickao »
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The one who says it can't be done should avoid interrupting the person doing it.
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Mike Chrest
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Location: Rochester,NY Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 386
N.W. New York State
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« Reply #52 on: August 22, 2008, 07:25 PM » |
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Thanks Nick, I know someone who does movie set construction and they offered to put faux grain on em for me I like the idea of using three layers of breather mesh in the vacuum bag. I'll try that next time I have to glue up something pointy. Mike
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« Last Edit: August 22, 2008, 07:27 PM by Mike Chrest »
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Brice Burrell
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
Posts: 6215
Remodeling Contractor
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« Reply #53 on: August 22, 2008, 08:06 PM » |
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Hey Brice, How much does that Trim Bonder cost? Have you found it for sale online anywhere? Mike
Mike, I don't remember, I ordered some last spring through my lumber lard, if I have the time I'll track down the invoice and look at the price. I do remember it isn't cheap. I don't like to leave the Azek unpainted, it doesn't take much to get it dirty looking. I spent the day bondo'ing an Azek job today that will be painted white.
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Peter Halle
Global Moderator
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Location: Powhatan, Virginia USA Member Since: Jul 2007
Posts: 6407
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« Reply #54 on: August 22, 2008, 10:13 PM » |
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I haven't used the trimbonder stuff at all. I did look at the website this morning though. Then I called a local dealer. Calking gun $60. One tube $30. No discount by the case. ouch. I'll try it though because it can make my work better.
peter
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day. The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy. They also were in the minority. Their complaint: They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in. I guess the truth hurts.
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Brice Burrell
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
Posts: 6215
Remodeling Contractor
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« Reply #55 on: August 22, 2008, 10:44 PM » |
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I haven't used the trimbonder stuff at all. I did look at the website this morning though. Then I called a local dealer. Calking gun $60. One tube $30. No discount by the case. ouch. I'll try it though because it can make my work better.
peter
Peter, I used a regular calking gun and only buy the amount you need, the stuff has a one year shelf life.
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Peter Halle
Global Moderator
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Location: Powhatan, Virginia USA Member Since: Jul 2007
Posts: 6407
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« Reply #56 on: August 23, 2008, 07:38 AM » |
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Brice,
Thanks for the info. I suspect that the salesman gave me the wrong info based on his statements versus yours. I don't buy much from them although they are the go to place for hard to find things and restoration mouldings. My closest supplier now sells Certainteed pvc at a significant discount from the Azek.
Peter
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day. The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy. They also were in the minority. Their complaint: They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in. I guess the truth hurts.
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Colo timber
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Location: Littleton, CO Member Since: Jan 2008
Posts: 35
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« Reply #57 on: August 24, 2008, 05:10 PM » |
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Thanks Mike and Brice, It's interesting how many of the fabricators are either in the Northwest or east of Colorado, I am assuming for the dry climate here the less likely hood of wood rotting. We do have a problem here because of the extremes in temperature fluctuations, moisture thaws during the day and then sub zero at night, with one crack in the wood and shortly you have sizable crevice. I talked with my supplier (big big company) and he said that he could get it in a couple of days they don't even stock Azek. This application is also for a deck railing.
Thanks again
Dan Judish
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qualitycustomcraftsman.com
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