jmbfestool
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« on: October 14, 2010, 03:59 PM » |
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Tom Bellemare you ask to see some jobs I have done!Nothing special compared to some projects I have seen on this forum very nice! Unfortunately I was not a Fog member so making pictures through out the job was not the norm for me lol I just took pictures when I remembered and then the finished result just for me as memory what I had achieved  Here are the links first to some projects I have already uploaded on this forum instead of doing it all again. Cedar DeckingLibraryGazebo (Page 2/2)Van (page 2/3)Oak PorchMy Parents bathroom. I designed it with my mother. This was the 5th spare bedroom which really was just used for junk so I bored the loft to get rid of it all up their. The frame still need to be painted by the way    The Plant died  As you can see. It did look really nice! I bought my mum for her birthday a new artificial plant which she has in the bathroom now.       Just incase you are wondering! There is no access panel! Well I hate them! They always look ugly! lol Luckily the bathroom is above the garage so I cut out the ceiling in the garage and put a access panel in the garage ceiling. Radiator covers. I made a template then cut them out with a large router then used a small trimmer with a small pit in the corners then used a chisel to cut the corners out. This was not mine design it was the architecture. You can see some loose radiator covers on the right which she did not like she wanted them built in. So I built one in but this woman dont know where she came from said no good because they are having long curtains. So it was ripped out and burned!  So knocked out the internal skin of the walls and moved the radiators all 16 of them! into the cavity and then built the radiator covers in set back from the walls with the angle.   More Pic later! |
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« Last Edit: November 21, 2012, 09:03 AM by jmbfestool »
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Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2010, 04:17 PM » |
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So truthfully, how much of the work did your mom do on her bathroom and what were you doing most of the time that she was working?  Let me guess. You were taking videos of your Stabila plate level.  Beautiful bathroom, by the way! |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2010, 04:26 PM » |
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So truthfully, how much of the work did your mom do on her bathroom and what were you doing most of the time that she was working? Let me guess. You were taking videos of your Stabila plate level. Beautiful bathroom, by the way! Funny Geza! She did the you sure! It best look nice! I was like trust me! JMB |
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Jonhilgen
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« Reply #3 on: October 14, 2010, 04:59 PM » |
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Love the LEDs in the shower chubby. Great work all around too!
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The more Festools I buy, the more money I earn. The more money I earn, the more Festools I buy. The more...
TS 55, TS 75, Domino, CT22, OF 2000, C12, CXS, RAS, Trion, Fogtainers!
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Tom Bellemare
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Festool demo's & personal service in Central Texas
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« Reply #4 on: October 14, 2010, 05:01 PM » |
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Nice bathroom! Is that a TV?
Tom
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WarnerConstCo.
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« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2010, 05:19 PM » |
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Love the LEDs in the shower chubby. Great work all around too!
 I hate it when that happens. |
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Jonhilgen
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« Reply #6 on: October 14, 2010, 05:35 PM » |
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Love the LEDs in the shower chubby. Great work all around too!
I hate it when that happens. Droid spell check! Always puts the wrong word in! That one is by far the best yet. |
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The more Festools I buy, the more money I earn. The more money I earn, the more Festools I buy. The more...
TS 55, TS 75, Domino, CT22, OF 2000, C12, CXS, RAS, Trion, Fogtainers!
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GhostFist
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« Reply #7 on: October 14, 2010, 05:36 PM » |
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Nice stuff indeed. I'm still playing around with how to post pics on here, wanted to show off some of the weirdo stuff I've done. Got a nice blurry pic taken off my phone of a 20' beer keg I built and one of a runway I did for a channel show here. Can't really post any movie stuff as I'm under contract not to photograph behind the scenes but if you ever saw the last Hulk film, the scene at the end where he say's "HULK SMASH!" and punches the ground to make a huge crack.......I made the crack that's about the only thing I can directly point out in a film I've worked on that someone might catch. Will post the Keg and runway pics when I get a clue. Cheers! |
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GhostFist
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« Reply #8 on: October 14, 2010, 05:45 PM » |
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Haha I found video of my Mega Keg! pay no heed to the drunken whatever that's going on but you can see the keg of doom if you're interested. http://vimeo.com/groups/xdcam/videos/12615725 |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #9 on: October 14, 2010, 06:02 PM » |
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Nice bathroom! Is that a TV?
Tom
Yeah it is a waterproof mirror TV. JMB |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #10 on: October 14, 2010, 06:12 PM » |
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Love the LEDs in the shower chubby. Great work all around too!
Yeah nice but! If you look at the recess on the bath I made sure it runs in line with the tiles perfectly as I hate cut tiles around a recess. I also did this with the shower BUT! As you can see in the picture it has not worked out like this and this is because I made the boxing for a row of 3 and it was decided after! that 4 rows was better! for the shower bottom as its easier to slope smaller tiles to the waist and I could not alter it as I already tanked the shower and the recess so I did not want to break the seal. So it was left! BUT I hate it I really do I hate that it does not run with the grout line. rubbish! JMB |
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Rob-GB
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« Reply #11 on: October 17, 2010, 01:18 AM » |
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Very nice JMB, I think you are a bit hard on yourself at times though.  From the man who looks back on every job and thinks" coulda, shoulda done it that way" Rob. |
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Problem? No such thing! Only a solution waiting to be found:- RJ
"A $2 guppy swims......" Deke
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joiner1970
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« Reply #12 on: October 17, 2010, 12:03 PM » |
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JMB, what you doing working when your parents have a house like that just kidding. We have a couple of bathrooms in our latest new build that are almost exactly the same tiling pattern with the strip running vertical thru the bath must be popular at the moment. |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #13 on: October 17, 2010, 03:28 PM » |
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Very nice JMB, I think you are a bit hard on yourself at times though. From the man who looks back on every job and thinks" coulda, shoulda done it that way" Rob. I cant help it!! If something ain't right I think about it! I try and think of solutions or reasons to tell my self its like that because........... and that's why its better! Soon as I walk away from it in my head I get an image and its looks even worse so I walk back to it and think oh not its not that bad and its with any job I do if it just ain't right! Even the clients tell me stop it and tell nothing wrong it it! I still aint happy! I think what if another trade see it and think what's that that ain't that good! Cant help it! The foreman use to tell me: I need to teach you to know when its fine to leave it it will do! or when it does not changing as its not acceptable. JMB |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #14 on: October 17, 2010, 03:32 PM » |
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JMB, what you doing working when your parents have a house like that just kidding. We have a couple of bathrooms in our latest new build that are almost exactly the same tiling pattern with the strip running vertical thru the bath must be popular at the moment. Hee Hee! Well I cant wait to show you my upcoming project for my parents. When its done I hope i'm going to start it in about 2 months time. They have two slightly smaller projects they want doing first before that is started! Ill deffos put them pictures in this topic! Yeah it is I think! I also think its something what wont go out of date any time soon either well so my mum hopes any way! JMB |
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mattfc
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« Reply #15 on: November 08, 2010, 06:43 AM » |
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Yeah nice but! If you look at the recess on the bath I made sure it runs in line with the tiles perfectly as I hate cut tiles around a recess. I also did this with the shower BUT! As you can see in the picture it has not worked out like this and this is because I made the boxing for a row of 3 and it was decided after! that 4 rows was better! for the shower bottom as its easier to slope smaller tiles to the waist and I could not alter it as I already tanked the shower and the recess so I did not want to break the seal. So it was left! BUT I hate it I really do I hate that it does not run with the grout line. rubbish!
JMB
I know the feeling, its a real pain to get the positioning perfect re cut-outs, here is one I did in my Mrs house  |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #16 on: November 08, 2010, 04:58 PM » |
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Nice! Looks like its glass your looking through to another room.
Its annoying because you get one area perfect for you to find it wont work some where else like around the bath
JMB
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #17 on: January 06, 2011, 01:03 PM » |
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At my Parents house! Finished it just before Christmas! Had to do a lot of non joinery work! I used a Lift to lift them steels(RSJ) in bit to heavy to lift. A bit of brick work! on onside to repair wall. I did Brick work Plaster Work(Apart from ceiling! I cant plaster Ceilings only walls!) and fitting a fire! Tilling was done by tillers! I levelled the floor up though. And the lighting!     |
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« Last Edit: January 06, 2011, 01:40 PM by jmbfestool »
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #18 on: January 06, 2011, 01:05 PM » |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #19 on: January 06, 2011, 01:10 PM » |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #20 on: January 06, 2011, 01:13 PM » |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #21 on: January 06, 2011, 01:17 PM » |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #22 on: January 06, 2011, 01:23 PM » |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #23 on: January 06, 2011, 01:24 PM » |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #24 on: January 06, 2011, 01:27 PM » |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #25 on: January 06, 2011, 01:39 PM » |
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Jesse Cloud
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Festooling at the end of a dirt road in New Mexico
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« Reply #26 on: January 06, 2011, 01:56 PM » |
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That's spectacular! What a great buildout!! Thanks for posting the progress pictures.
One question, though? Why so many TS75's?
Congrats on a job well done.
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #27 on: January 06, 2011, 02:00 PM » |
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That's spectacular! What a great buildout!! Thanks for posting the progress pictures.
One question, though? Why so many TS75's?
Congrats on a job well done.
Small one for general use (I use the most) Large one for cutting Oak and thicker material. 110v for site incase I go on site. 110V tools are not as powerful or as good as 240v so I rather use 240v also the Festool TS75/55 110V does not have electronic brake so it takes a while for the blade to stop. Most of my tools are 240v. I thought if I go on site I can manage without most of my tools which are 240V but not having a TS on site would suck so I got the TS75 110v all my other tools I can use my cordless tools as a replacement. I used my TS55 on this job and my TS75 110V for cutting out the tiles and grout with a diamond blade so the new tiles will join to the old. JMB JMB |
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« Last Edit: January 06, 2011, 02:03 PM by jmbfestool »
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woodguy7
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« Reply #28 on: January 06, 2011, 03:13 PM » |
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Man, the end result is stunning. This is another thread i missed, i clearly need to spend more time on the FOG  Did you do the tilling on the bathroom ? It looks great. I hope they are paying you for all your work or is it considered your rent  Woodguy |
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #29 on: January 06, 2011, 04:29 PM » |
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Yes LOL Yeah you do! Fog should rule your life lol! The thing wa was hard was making sure I had NO small cut tiles or a L shape tile I HATE L shape tiles. I know its not always possible to avoid but if I can I want windows frames and insets to be on a joint as I mentioned before unfortunately the shower area it did not work out! This was because it was easier to slop small tiles to the waist and 4 rows of small tiles was easier to achieve this but the inset as you can see was built to fit 3 rows. I could not change this as it was tanked and I did not want to break the seal and waist more time and money on repairing it. Oh my pay is love! haahaa! Joking No when I finish all the jobs at my parents house they will pay for the workshop I still have to build it though! lol Thanks you! JMB |
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« Last Edit: January 06, 2011, 04:35 PM by jmbfestool »
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Rene89
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« Reply #30 on: January 06, 2011, 05:23 PM » |
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Thats some serous construction work jmb! Really like what you did with the lights in the lower ceiling.
The end result is great!
Cheerz René
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T 12+3, PS 300 EBQ, TS 55 EBQ, OF 1400 EBQ and guide rail adapter, 2x Festool guide rail 1400/2, Rotex 90, CTL 26E. Coming up: Domino, EHL 65 E, Kapex 120. -- http://juniorwoodshop.blogspot.com/ -- |
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Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #31 on: January 06, 2011, 06:07 PM » |
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Thats some serous construction work jmb! Really like what you did with the lights in the lower ceiling.
The end result is great!
Cheerz René
Thank you! I should not really touch electric stuff really! Kinda know wa I am doing I think! Haaahaa! I just flick the switch and hope for the best! The dimming switch is what confused me I had to research on the internet how to do that! I got a massive shock when I was taking the wall down though! I was standing on the steps and I was leaning against the wall with my arm and I touched the copper pipe and BANG! I felt this massive smack in my arms and my chest. At first I didnt know what happened I Was like wa the ***** Then I looked at the cable going down the wall and I could see a small section of the cable exposed! I must of cut it when I was cutting the wall.  |
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #32 on: January 06, 2011, 08:34 PM » |
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JMB, How'd you hit the cable with all the red writing on the wall? Even the dog knows to stay away from it. |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #33 on: January 06, 2011, 09:10 PM » |
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You come out with some silly little things dont you! lol
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #34 on: January 06, 2011, 09:14 PM » |
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I try. Anyway, nice work there! I was wondering about all the TS75's on display till I read your answer. Any other Festools in triplicate? |
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« Last Edit: January 06, 2011, 09:16 PM by Ken Nagrod »
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #35 on: January 06, 2011, 09:17 PM » |
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I try. Anyway, nice work there! I was wondering about all the TS75's on display till I read your answer. Any other Festools in triplacate? Ummm??!?!?! No only the TS for now lol!  Cheers! JMB Off topic as its not worth starting a new! Whats up with all the Selling of tools on FOG man I see new Post after new post selling tools and lots. Every one retiring?! JMB |
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #36 on: January 06, 2011, 09:25 PM » |
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It's an American thing. Tv shows here making us believe it's the end of the world and there's no point taking your Festools with you. I'm still holding out.
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Corwin
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« Reply #37 on: January 07, 2011, 12:08 AM » |
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...
Off topic as its not worth starting a new! Whats up with all the Selling of tools on FOG man I see new Post after new post selling tools and lots. Every one retiring?!
JMB
Nah, Nickao is just cleaning his shop. Hey, even Festool has noticed the increased activity -- here's what they posted on FB: Looking to buy or sell some used Festool or other woodworking related products? Check out the classifieds section on the Festool Owners Group forum. Lots of newly listed items. |
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« Last Edit: January 07, 2011, 01:25 AM by Corwin »
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Shirt Size: L
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #38 on: January 07, 2011, 01:53 AM » |
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Hey, even Festool has noticed the increased activity -- here's what they posted on FB: Looking to buy or sell some used Festool or other woodworking related products? Check out the classifieds section on the Festool Owners Group forum. Lots of newly listed items. I have a feeling that's Shane's way of helping those guys out. |
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Wonderwino
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« Reply #39 on: January 07, 2011, 05:18 PM » |
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Nice work! I really like the way you did the cabinet doors for the entertainment center.
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Water separates the people of the world; wine unites them.
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #40 on: January 08, 2011, 01:57 PM » |
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Nice work! I really like the way you did the cabinet doors for the entertainment center.
Well I was asked if I could make the doors look a bit rustic so I thought having them all domino separately and I just move them about a bit I would get inconsistent gaps making it look a little rustic. Turned out alrite!. I wanted them Flush fitted but my mum said have them face mounted as it looks more cottage like. I made them only a little bigger so if I hated it face mounted I could just plane a bit of and still have them set in flush as I dont really like face mounted doors but I must admit I dont mind these face mounted. JMB |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #41 on: September 17, 2011, 01:33 PM » |
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Just thought I would show some other jobs I am on at the moment and using my Festool tools on! Instead of the Cedar Decking and Cedar roof by me! Who ever did the metal studding was RUBBISH! As the studding wasnt level and around the round window the reveals where square from the window blocking light but also looking from below covered a lot of the window! So I created this frame which flared out letting more light in and does not block the view of the window from below. To the left of it you can see a opening which I have partly plaster boarded and put the corner beads on as I know for a fact the plasters wouldn't get it bang on level! Thats where the discreet(secret) door is going.  Opposite I noticed more metal studding which didn't fallow the curve of the window at all and had no where for the plasters to fix their boards to so I decided to make a arch for that as well.   |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #42 on: September 17, 2011, 01:57 PM » |
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I gotta make a few doorway arches! Here is my first one! I hope Im back on the job next week some time to do the other two! I made a former with my OF2200! I bent 6 4mm sheets of MDF in one go worked very well I think and came to 25mm which was odd perfect fit for a 25mm sheet of MDF I had which I thought I needed to rebate to get it to look right on the edge!  I then fixed the 25mm MDF to the arch using worktop bolts and a few dominos and using the arch former it allowed for me to run the bearing wheel on my cutter using the OF2200 to put the mould on around the arch section.  Here you can see it in place the two holes at the bottom are for lights to shine up the arch frame.  |
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« Last Edit: September 17, 2011, 02:21 PM by jmbfestool »
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speed
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« Reply #43 on: September 18, 2011, 12:58 PM » |
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nice work on the archway who needs a workshop eh [tongue]how long did it take to make the former and arch, i bet the glue up was abit stressfull 6 sheets at once  |
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has made the change. now 100% T-loc  |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #44 on: September 18, 2011, 02:26 PM » |
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Took 2 days to make former and bend arch then let the glue go off and fit the arch.
Got 2 more 2 make! Yeah I had to get another person on the job to help me bend the 6 sheets as I struggled to bend them round on my own and had to be quick as I used 10min PVA D4
JMB
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woodguy7
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Location: wick, scotland Member Since: Apr 2009
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« Reply #45 on: September 18, 2011, 03:41 PM » |
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Nice work. I might have used a glue with a longer open time though. Just takes the pressure off a little.
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
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Deansocial
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« Reply #46 on: September 18, 2011, 03:47 PM » |
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Nice work. I might have used a glue with a longer open time though. Just takes the pressure off a little.
he did, he swears by 5min pur normaly, had twice as long this time |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #47 on: September 18, 2011, 04:05 PM » |
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Nice work. I might have used a glue with a longer open time though. Just takes the pressure off a little.
I wanted longer I asked for longer open time but I didnt get that! You see im only on that job to do the more complex work like the arches and round windows and secret door and gotta do some build in for the bathrooms and was going to make all the skirting and architrave for the job aswell so things like that really as I haven't got time do do things like door frames and hanging doors and fitting skirting. So there was 2 joiners one has left so now only one at the moment long term doing all the other joinery work which needs doing. Away getting to the point before I arrive on the job I call up and ask the joiner if he can get glue screws and anything I need for when I came for 1 or 2 days so im not waisting time sorting things out so I can just do the job well I asked for glue which is longer then 10 mins but I dont think he was able to get hold of any I dont know?? JMB |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #48 on: September 18, 2011, 04:06 PM » |
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Nice work. I might have used a glue with a longer open time though. Just takes the pressure off a little.
he did, he swears by 5min pur normaly, had twice as long this time COMEDY! |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #49 on: October 13, 2011, 05:53 PM » |
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Hello Again! Just crappy picture sorry! Forgot my camera! I wont be going back to this job till ummmm........ I dont kno when I find time! Doing a few bathrooms for this client and few other jobs! Kinda get giving an idea and picture of something she wants but often the picture is just a picture of the web which is just showing a very small section of a mould she likes and thats it! So im kinda gotta get an idea on what she wants and work with it! Any way so im kinda free to do what I want! Soooo I gotta panel out the entire bathroom and around the bath and build a small cupboard for this small on-suite bathroom 1 for her daughter. Sooo like I do ALWAYS I try and make the job hard for my self! I decided to add some curves and when I finished building the bath in and cupboard I jumped on the sink unit! Its an under mounted sink and so I decided to fallow the sink curve! Its going to have a granite top made for it. I know its crappy MDF its MR MDF by the way but she wanted to paint everything so thought its the easiest and quickest stuff to use to make the unit seen as its been painted! Well I have been thinking of how to make these Doors! umm...... The doors will have a double curve and will also have a panel in them! I dont know if I should just get solid timber and bandsaw the curve OR create a former and laminate the doors carry the MDF theme! lol  JMB |
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Alan m
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« Reply #50 on: October 13, 2011, 06:35 PM » |
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jmb nice job. you really know how to make life hard for yourself.
anyway (its only a problem if you cant solve it)
idea 1 . put a curved piece in following the shape so that the door is only one part of the curve instead of curving both ways. 2 reviels if you will. this will make the openings smaller thow
idea 2 . make a former, get bendy ply and laminated up the back 2/3s of the door then apply more bendy ply to mimic the rails and stiled of the panneled door. vacum bag would be great
idea 3. cut a series of kerfs in a panel of mdf (maybe) some on 1 side and the rest on the other side(for the second curve) then bend around a former and fill the kerfs with a good glue or resin to fill them up. then apply a skin on either side and fake stiles and rails to the front
idea 4 pay a forture for cnced curved doors
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now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
wish list
of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #51 on: October 13, 2011, 06:48 PM » |
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Thank you Alan! I would like to keep the opening as big as possible. The corners are going to have some sort of mould put in them at the moment you can see in the picture its just pieces of MDF they are just their to help me fix the mould to from the back so you dont see any fixings. I like Idea 2! I didnt think of that! I was thinking laminating the frame and a panel and fix them together but your idea of doing part of the door and then laminate the rest for the styles is nice! Ill be using IDEA 2! Ill take pictures of doing that process when im back on the job! As long as the client does not get upset with me! She has told me I should be on her job full time, I laughed she said she was being serious ! To be fair their is enough work for me easily to last me to Christmas if I was on it every day but so are all the other jobs I have! She has two joiners their now on it full time doing the standard joinery work hanging Doors,frames etc. JMB |
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #52 on: October 13, 2011, 08:04 PM » |
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Looks like someone else has a folding A-Square. You, JMB?
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Tim Raleigh
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« Reply #53 on: October 14, 2011, 07:20 AM » |
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Ill be using IDEA 2!
May this will help...
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mattfc
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« Reply #54 on: October 14, 2011, 09:05 AM » |
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Thank you Alan! I would like to keep the opening as big as possible. The corners are going to have some sort of mould put in them at the moment you can see in the picture its just pieces of MDF they are just their to help me fix the mould to from the back so you dont see any fixings. I like Idea 2! I didnt think of that! I was thinking laminating the frame and a panel and fix them together but your idea of doing part of the door and then laminate the rest for the styles is nice! Ill be using IDEA 2! Ill take pictures of doing that process when im back on the job! As long as the client does not get upset with me! She has told me I should be on her job full time, I laughed she said she was being serious ! To be fair their is enough work for me easily to last me to Christmas if I was on it every day but so are all the other jobs I have! She has two joiners their now on it full time doing the standard joinery work hanging Doors,frames etc. JMB I would go with option 2 also, fitting curved rail and panel together in the traditional way would be a pain. Vacuum bagging is the way to go. see this site for a UK based company http://www.bagpress.com/Home.html. They sell good bendy ply also.given its going to be painted, you could even clamp the stack of ply to be bent together and prfile on the router table, and then use pins to hold in place when you vacumm bag it. Juts make sure the pins a well inserted so as not to puncture your vacuum bag. I think once you get into vacumm bagging there will be no stopping you! |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #55 on: October 14, 2011, 01:39 PM » |
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Looks like someone else has a folding A-Square. You, JMB?
Whats up with my foldable square?? JMB |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #56 on: October 14, 2011, 01:45 PM » |
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Thank you Alan! I would like to keep the opening as big as possible. The corners are going to have some sort of mould put in them at the moment you can see in the picture its just pieces of MDF they are just their to help me fix the mould to from the back so you dont see any fixings. I like Idea 2! I didnt think of that! I was thinking laminating the frame and a panel and fix them together but your idea of doing part of the door and then laminate the rest for the styles is nice! Ill be using IDEA 2! Ill take pictures of doing that process when im back on the job! As long as the client does not get upset with me! She has told me I should be on her job full time, I laughed she said she was being serious ! To be fair their is enough work for me easily to last me to Christmas if I was on it every day but so are all the other jobs I have! She has two joiners their now on it full time doing the standard joinery work hanging Doors,frames etc. JMB I would go with option 2 also, fitting curved rail and panel together in the traditional way would be a pain. Vacuum bagging is the way to go. see this site for a UK based company http://www.bagpress.com/Home.html. They sell good bendy ply also.given its going to be painted, you could even clamp the stack of ply to be bent together and prfile on the router table, and then use pins to hold in place when you vacumm bag it. Juts make sure the pins a well inserted so as not to puncture your vacuum bag. I think once you get into vacumm bagging there will be no stopping you! lol Nothing stopping me lol! Looking at Tim Raleigh video link (thank you Tim) I am actually liking that more than vacuum forming! Going to research into the cost of this easyform stuff! |
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #57 on: October 14, 2011, 01:52 PM » |
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Looks like someone else has a folding A-Square. You, JMB?
Whats up with my foldable square?? JMB I don't know. What's up with it? I was just noticing it in the background and didn't realize you had one too as they're not that popular. |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #58 on: October 14, 2011, 02:16 PM » |
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Looks like someone else has a folding A-Square. You, JMB?
Whats up with my foldable square?? JMB I don't know. What's up with it? I was just noticing it in the background and didn't realize you had one too as they're not that popular. Oh arnt they?! Here in the UK they are very common a lot of people have them I have had mine for years. I have always wanted another one a bigger version but its one of those things you dont think of untill you come to a job and need one! I like it dead handy and saves space in your van! JMB |
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #59 on: October 14, 2011, 02:26 PM » |
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Looks like someone else has a folding A-Square. You, JMB?
Whats up with my foldable square?? JMB I don't know. What's up with it? I was just noticing it in the background and didn't realize you had one too as they're not that popular. Oh arnt they?! Here in the UK they are very common a lot of people have them I have had mine for years. I have always wanted another one a bigger version but its one of those things you dont think of untill you come to a job and need one! I like it dead handy and saves space in your van! JMB I just have problems with the spring release pin thing getting in the way of laying flat or activating when I don't want it to. Those are the only negative things I can say about its use. I keep mine in a pvc pipe with a screw in plug. |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #60 on: October 14, 2011, 02:30 PM » |
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Spring release thing? Activating when you dont want? Have you got a picture of yours? Cus I dont have the problem with mine activating when I want cus I cant see how that would happen! your must be different to mine
JMB
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #61 on: October 14, 2011, 02:32 PM » |
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Wait a minute. Going to get my helmet so I can film this.
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Alan m
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« Reply #62 on: October 14, 2011, 02:36 PM » |
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i have one of those folding squares. mine is the bigger one. its great for some jobs. wish i had a smaller one.
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now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
wish list
of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #63 on: October 14, 2011, 02:47 PM » |
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Alan m
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« Reply #64 on: October 14, 2011, 02:50 PM » |
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thats a different style than mine ken . mine folds in the middle of the long side. everything is flush (i think, it hasnt caused any problems anyway)
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now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
wish list
of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
Posts: 5239
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« Reply #65 on: October 14, 2011, 03:03 PM » |
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Hey Ken! ITs very different to mine! Ill take some pictures! I dont like how yours works It looks a little pants if you ask me JMB |
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« Last Edit: October 14, 2011, 03:05 PM by jmbfestool »
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #66 on: October 14, 2011, 03:04 PM » |
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i have one of those folding squares. mine is the bigger one. its great for some jobs. wish i had a smaller one.
I wish I had a bigger one you wish you had a smaller one! lol You wanna swap? lol I want both sizes big and small! I would like 3 different sizes have you seen them really big ones? I want one of those aswell! JMB |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #67 on: October 14, 2011, 03:07 PM » |
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Two reasons why I dont like yours Ken lol! 1. It folds on the square corner which means when folded its folded along the longest side of the triangle ! Mine folds on the longest side of the triangle towards the square corner meaning it reduces the length when folded! 2. That spring looks like it gets in the way and doesnt look very good lol! just my 2cents! JMB |
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« Last Edit: October 14, 2011, 03:11 PM by jmbfestool »
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #68 on: October 14, 2011, 03:16 PM » |
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #69 on: October 14, 2011, 03:17 PM » |
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JMB, I agree with you, but I'm not swapping since shipping and customs will probably cost me as much as two Domino XL's.
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #70 on: October 14, 2011, 03:19 PM » |
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JMB,
Yours looks like an equilateral triangle. Mine is a 3ft x 4ft x 5ft triangle. That would be the difference in the folding method and design.
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #71 on: October 14, 2011, 03:24 PM » |
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JMB,
Yours looks like an equilateral triangle. Mine is a 3ft x 4ft x 5ft triangle. That would be the difference in the folding method and design.
Um...... Im pretty sure equilateral triangles have no square sides as every side has to be equal hence the name equilateral and if all sides are the same length you CAN NOT have a square corner! Ill google it in a min just to check! I might be wrong! JMB |
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« Last Edit: October 14, 2011, 04:46 PM by jmbfestool »
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #72 on: October 14, 2011, 03:28 PM » |
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DOO DOO DOO DOO, DOO DOO DOO, DOO DOO DOO DOO, DOO!, DA DA DA DA DA...
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Alan m
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« Reply #73 on: October 14, 2011, 03:38 PM » |
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mine is 4foot ( i think) on the 2 short sides. it sides into a black fabric bag. . i found the site for that forrmer material that is in the you tube vid. linkits a uk based company dont know about price but i will email. i know it will be dear but it is reusable so should pay for itself im going to email them for more info |
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now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
wish list
of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
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« Reply #74 on: October 14, 2011, 03:52 PM » |
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mine is 4foot ( i think) on the 2 short sides. it sides into a black fabric bag. . i found the site for that forrmer material that is in the you tube vid. linkits a uk based company dont know about price but i will email. i know it will be dear but it is reusable so should pay for itself im going to email them for more info Mine slides into a fabric bag I have it attached in my van for easy storage! Yeah see if we can get a good price 2gether some how lol! I want to buy some of that stuff looks MINT and perfect for what I need! Im getting more and more of this type of work! Im turning down skirting and hanging doors jobs at the moment which is good as I dont like doing that kinda work any more! JMB |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #75 on: October 14, 2011, 04:14 PM » |
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ITs only an hour away from me! Could give them a visit! Contact them first!
Easyform
Unit 38 The Warren
East Goscote Industrial Estate
Leicester
LE7 3XA
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #76 on: October 14, 2011, 04:22 PM » |
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JMB, Did you see that there are three 60 degree angles in an equilateral triangle? |
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Peter Halle
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« Reply #77 on: October 14, 2011, 04:31 PM » |
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mine is 4foot ( i think) on the 2 short sides. it sides into a black fabric bag. . i found the site for that forrmer material that is in the you tube vid. linkits a uk based company dont know about price but i will email. i know it will be dear but it is reusable so should pay for itself im going to email them for more info Mine slides into a fabric bag I have it attached in my van for easy storage! Yeah see if we can get a good price 2gether some how lol! I want to buy some of that stuff looks MINT and perfect for what I need! Im getting more and more of this type of work! Im turning down skirting and hanging doors jobs at the moment which is good as I dont like doing that kinda work any more! JMB I happen to know for a fact that Ken loves to buy NAINA stuff is is just looking for another item! Ring him up! |
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day. The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy. They also were in the minority. Their complaint: They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in. I guess the truth hurts.
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Frank-Jan
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Dutch Canadian living in Belgium
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« Reply #78 on: October 14, 2011, 04:34 PM » |
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I just learned from google that the English term for a triangle with 2 equal sides is an " isosceles triangle".
I never saw those smaller folding triangles before, I do have a 1m stanley folding triangle I use for layout.
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #79 on: October 14, 2011, 04:38 PM » |
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JMB, Did you see that there are three 60 degree angles in an equilateral triangle? yes! |
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Rene89
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« Reply #80 on: October 14, 2011, 04:38 PM » |
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There are also foldable sqaures/triangles with 2, 45 and (of course) 1 90 degree angle. Than you have one with 2 equal sized legs! Rene |
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T 12+3, PS 300 EBQ, TS 55 EBQ, OF 1400 EBQ and guide rail adapter, 2x Festool guide rail 1400/2, Rotex 90, CTL 26E. Coming up: Domino, EHL 65 E, Kapex 120. -- http://juniorwoodshop.blogspot.com/ -- |
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #81 on: October 14, 2011, 04:42 PM » |
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OK, so obviously we have a case of different triangles from around the world. OK, everybody check their squares. How many of you have unequal sides and angles other than 90 degrees?
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #82 on: October 14, 2011, 04:43 PM » |
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I just learned from google that the English term for a triangle with 2 equal sides is an " isosceles triangle".
I never saw those smaller folding triangles before, I do have a 1m stanley folding triangle I use for layout.
Yeah mine has two equal sides and two 45 45 angle corners which is called a ''Isosceles right angled triangle!'' Or what Ken might call a equilateral triangle |
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« Last Edit: October 14, 2011, 04:45 PM by jmbfestool »
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #83 on: October 14, 2011, 04:54 PM » |
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #84 on: October 14, 2011, 04:57 PM » |
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I'd applaud, but I can't one-handed.
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #85 on: October 14, 2011, 05:13 PM » |
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This is just for you Ken! Are you impressed? One handed quick unfold! Do it all the time love doing it when walking up to the job just flick it out ready to use! Looks coooooooool! lol
JMB |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #87 on: October 15, 2011, 02:41 AM » |
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Yes! For internal corners it fines just when you place it on a board or something with a edge you can only use it one way round for it to hook onto the edge. Mb |
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Tim Raleigh
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« Reply #88 on: October 15, 2011, 09:12 AM » |
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Looking at Tim Raleigh video link (thank you Tim) I am actually liking that more than vacuum forming!
Going to research into the cost of this easyform stuff!
Ya, I am curious as to the cost, let us/me know. It doesn't look cheap. It sounded like they weren't really in "production" but they do look fairly substantial. Tim |
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speed
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« Reply #89 on: October 15, 2011, 12:30 PM » |
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i have the same square as you jmb, mine come in a case and has a german sticker on
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has made the change. now 100% T-loc |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #90 on: October 15, 2011, 12:42 PM » |
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i have the same square as you jmb, mine come in a case and has a german sticker on
Umm German hey! I don't kno if mine is German or not. I'll check it outmon Monday don't think mine is. I'll have to get a German one! Lol Jmb |
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Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #91 on: October 15, 2011, 07:25 PM » |
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Hello!
I got an email to day from easy-form! They said they will soon have a new website up and running soon with more details and price listings.
Any way he send some information regarding prices via email
Length in mm
200 - £1.58
400 - £3.16
600 - £4.74
800 - £6.32
1000 - £7.90
1200 - £9.48
2000 - £15.80
2400 - £18.96
3000- £23.70 (maximum length)
£7.90per linear metre for the easy form extrusion.
Price per square metre £438.92
Jmb
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« Last Edit: October 15, 2011, 07:32 PM by jmbfestool »
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Alan m
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« Reply #92 on: October 15, 2011, 08:23 PM » |
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i emailed them as well i got the same info along with 3-4 other pdfs on instructions and a price list for a set.
800x 1220 mm panel is 429 gbp (hollow 322 gbp)
800 - 1100 x 1220 mm extending is 429
not sure if thats only for one half or for the top as well. i dont think so.
its very dear but could be worth it in the long run
just a quick calculation in my head
500$ vac system at least
1 day for chip board former 100$
50$ materials
650 $ to do the same thing for one project. it might reduce the labour on building the mould down to 1 hour so a saving of 90 $ maybe.
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now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
wish list
of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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Tim Raleigh
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« Reply #93 on: October 16, 2011, 11:55 AM » |
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Price per square metre £438.92
650 $ to do the same thing for one project. it might reduce the labour on building the mould down to 1 hour so a saving of 90 $ maybe.
JMB, Alan: Thanks for the info. I think (guess) this application would be appropriate for slabs with "s" curves like ogee etc. but for straight curves (convex, concave), etc. a vacuum form would work as well. Tim |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #94 on: April 18, 2012, 05:24 PM » |
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Current ongoing job! Nice little Project! Some Oak flooring! Stairs! Warddrobes Bathroom Arches. Well I thought this was my LAST arch! Finally! Got fed up of them! Not that easy to make!  I was wrong this was my last arch! As you can see plaster had to come back and patch up as their was a previous arch done previous plasters and I had to open my big mouth and said it looks out of level AND needs moving over really cus of the warddrobes! Well I was told to make it happen! DAM IT!  A large mirror just picked a size which seemed to fit the room the best! Looked very big when it arrived but in place doesnt seem to bad! Then had to design a frame for it! Also do something with this big large opening in the ceiling! umm...  |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #95 on: April 18, 2012, 05:29 PM » |
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Just got my head in it!   Some LED's!  EVERYTHING on this job is made on the job all the mouldings and everything I made on the job! Just playing about show the customer different mould designs on paper then make a sample and then wait for the go a head! simples!  |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #96 on: April 18, 2012, 05:33 PM » |
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« Last Edit: April 18, 2012, 05:36 PM by jmbfestool »
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #97 on: April 18, 2012, 05:43 PM » |
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Deansocial
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« Reply #98 on: April 18, 2012, 05:45 PM » |
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You buggered off to the Gadget show and left me to move the piano from 1 room to another tho |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #99 on: April 18, 2012, 05:48 PM » |
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You buggered off to the Gadget show and left me to move the piano from 1 room to another tho haahaa yeah! lol The gadget show on saterday was good thanks Soooo much stuff! Also FESTO was their with the FLying BIRD! More rooms more flooring    |
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« Last Edit: April 18, 2012, 05:51 PM by jmbfestool »
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Alex
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« Reply #100 on: April 18, 2012, 05:50 PM » |
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JMB, I know a bit of music is very nice during work, but weren't you going a bit overboard by bringing your grand piano?
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #101 on: April 18, 2012, 05:53 PM » |
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JMB, I know a bit of music is very nice during work, but weren't you going a bit overboard by bringing your grand piano?
You know me! I dont do normal lol! Was thinking of getting Dean to play some music while I was still working JMB |
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Deansocial
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« Reply #102 on: April 18, 2012, 05:55 PM » |
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he didnt bring it. he disigned an made it on site
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #103 on: April 18, 2012, 05:58 PM » |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #104 on: April 18, 2012, 05:59 PM » |
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he didnt bring it. he disigned an made it on site
haahaa I wish I could do something like da! Wud be Amazing! |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #105 on: April 18, 2012, 06:02 PM » |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #106 on: April 18, 2012, 06:06 PM » |
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windmill man
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« Reply #107 on: April 18, 2012, 06:29 PM » |
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Really good work Brett , I like the detail at the door thresh hold and the radius around the soil pipe . Bet those MDF arches were a pain John |
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woodguy7
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« Reply #108 on: April 18, 2012, 06:31 PM » |
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Nice work lads, some really cool details in there. Especially like the curved rail around the toilet waste pipe. Won't be seen but it has been done right. Is the flooring nailed down ? If so what did you use to nail it.
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
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Deansocial
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« Reply #109 on: April 19, 2012, 02:08 AM » |
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that manhole in the kitchen could have been done better imho. I was going to sat when i was there but didnt want to say in front of the customer.
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mattfc
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« Reply #110 on: April 19, 2012, 04:09 AM » |
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that manhole in the kitchen could have been done better imho. I was going to sat when i was there but didnt want to say in front of the customer.
To get nice ones is a real pain the the bum.. I got stainlless steel edged one but had to be specicially made up. I trust that is a double cover with a sealed and bolted one underneath.. just in case the worse happens Otherwise some really nice work.. lucky customer to find you guys.. I very rarely seem to go into place in the UK anymore and look around and think that is a well thought out and executed job, a lot of carpentry is really really shoddy these day! |
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Kev
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« Reply #111 on: April 19, 2012, 04:22 AM » |
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that manhole in the kitchen could have been done better imho. I was going to sat when i was there but didnt want to say in front of the customer.
To get nice ones is a real pain the the bum.. I got stainlless steel edged one but had to be specicially made up. I trust that is a double cover with a sealed and bolted one underneath.. just in case the worse happens Otherwise some really nice work.. lucky customer to find you guys.. I very rarely seem to go into place in the UK anymore and look around and think that is a well thought out and executed job, a lot of carpentry is really really shoddy these day! At the very least you think it could have been integrated into the flw of the pattern rather than taking a chunk out of it. |
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mattfc
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« Reply #112 on: April 19, 2012, 04:54 AM » |
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JMB.. I see you still have the fun job ahead of you of working out the doors for this (sink unit bottom left)  |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #113 on: April 19, 2012, 01:11 PM » |
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Nice work lads, some really cool details in there. Especially like the curved rail around the toilet waste pipe. Won't be seen but it has been done right. Is the flooring nailed down ? If so what did you use to nail it.
Its glued down using Sika glue. The flooring has a minimum expansion gap of 23mm up to 30mm all round well above factory recommend 15mm! It did take ALOT longer because I had to go round ALL the rooms with the Fein Multi Master to cut plaster board to give more expansion room. The Door frames threshold I have come up with a simple Idea which Ill be calling a relieve threshold! I aint seen or heard of this method before so like to think I came up with it! As you can see the flooring runs different directions in the room with the Grand Piano and the hall way! Well its about 16meters long in total which made me a little worried to lay with out an expansion joint at the door threshold! BUT I hate having these T bar thresholds which stick up! So created a 4-5 mm rebate on the floor leaving a 10 mm gab between the two floors and sticking a 4-5 mm thick piece of oak 45mm wide as a fresh hold FLUSH I might stick some grooves in under neath the little piece so that IF the floor expands the threshold will SNAP! Instead of the floor buckling up. This can then be replaced no trouble. What do you think?!?! JMB |
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« Last Edit: April 19, 2012, 01:23 PM by jmbfestool »
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #114 on: April 19, 2012, 01:15 PM » |
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Really good work Brett , I like the detail at the door thresh hold and the radius around the soil pipe . Bet those MDF arches were a pain John Its the Arch thresh hold. I wanted to do it on all the door thresholds but the client said might be to much. The grooves needs a little stain in them to darken the grooves up like the rest of the flooring so it will stand out more its because I had to cut the boards down I lost the edge. Also the light holes need drilling in. |
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« Last Edit: April 19, 2012, 01:25 PM by jmbfestool »
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #115 on: April 19, 2012, 01:19 PM » |
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that manhole in the kitchen could have been done better imho. I was going to sat when i was there but didnt want to say in front of the customer.
Yeah I hate the Manhole its CRAP! Make it even worse the man hole housing is much deeper than the tiles SO the tiler just got bits of plasterboard and foamed them in the build it up so he could tile ontop to get it flush! Now that is CRAP! But it dont mater really because they are having a big unit over the top of it to hide it any way! As I DID say something to the client as I thought it was no good and needed redoing but she then told me it wont be seen as shes having some sort of unit along that wall. JMB |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #116 on: April 19, 2012, 01:22 PM » |
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that manhole in the kitchen could have been done better imho. I was going to sat when i was there but didnt want to say in front of the customer.
To get nice ones is a real pain the the bum.. I got stainlless steel edged one but had to be specicially made up. I trust that is a double cover with a sealed and bolted one underneath.. just in case the worse happens Otherwise some really nice work.. lucky customer to find you guys.. I very rarely seem to go into place in the UK anymore and look around and think that is a well thought out and executed job, a lot of carpentry is really really shoddy these day! Cheers! |
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Vindingo
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« Reply #117 on: April 19, 2012, 01:28 PM » |
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Are those short floor boards next to the hearths access panels of some kind?
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #118 on: April 19, 2012, 01:29 PM » |
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JMB.. I see you still have the fun job ahead of you of working out the doors for this (sink unit bottom left) Haahaa you noticed! Yeah I have been leaving that for a rainy day lol! I have set my self a challenge der really with the double curve on the doors. Not sure how to tackle it yet! I want to be able to get my mould like I have on my Paneling in the bathrooms to be the same on the doors. Any way I can make them doors later client is more bothered about the main jobs inside the house flooring and fitting out the other two bathrooms which I aint started yet! and UPGRADING the stairs to make them look more appealing not sure how to tackle that one yet! See how it goes! ill take pictures as usual. JMB |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #119 on: April 19, 2012, 01:32 PM » |
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Are those short floor boards next to the hearths access panels of some kind?
No. why should they of been longer ones?!?! Did think about not using them but thought it didnt look out of place so used them any way. Their is a double socket in the floor in the room with the grand piano you can see it in the pictures JMB |
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Vindingo
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« Reply #120 on: April 19, 2012, 01:50 PM » |
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No. why should they of been longer ones?!?! Did think about not using them but thought it didnt look out of place so used them any way. Their is a double socket in the floor in the room with the grand piano you can see it in the pictures
JMB
I just noticed both hearths have them. I'm not saying to rip them up, but I wouldn't have used them there I am also just busting your chops a bit though (which I'm sure can be taken the wrong way over the interwebz, but it is in jest, and I surly wouldn't do it if your work was crap) Everything looks good. |
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Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.
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Alan m
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Location: Ireland Member Since: Aug 2010
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« Reply #121 on: April 19, 2012, 02:12 PM » |
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some great work there jmb and dean
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now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
wish list
of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #122 on: April 19, 2012, 04:57 PM » |
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No. why should they of been longer ones?!?! Did think about not using them but thought it didnt look out of place so used them any way. Their is a double socket in the floor in the room with the grand piano you can see it in the pictures
JMB
I just noticed both hearths have them. I'm not saying to rip them up, but I wouldn't have used them there I am also just busting your chops a bit though (which I'm sure can be taken the wrong way over the interwebz, but it is in jest, and I surly wouldn't do it if your work was crap) Everything looks good. I see why I just checked out the other pictures and both fire places have a small piece! Blame DEAN for the other one! I was at the Gadget show so I couldnt keep an eye on him JMB |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #123 on: April 19, 2012, 04:58 PM » |
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some great work there jmb and dean
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #124 on: April 19, 2012, 04:59 PM » |
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Am I being silly or has the thread name been changed?! Im sure it was just called Projects Galley but now it has JMB on the end.
JMB
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Deansocial
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« Reply #125 on: April 19, 2012, 05:02 PM » |
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No. why should they of been longer ones?!?! Did think about not using them but thought it didnt look out of place so used them any way. Their is a double socket in the floor in the room with the grand piano you can see it in the pictures
JMB
I just noticed both hearths have them. I'm not saying to rip them up, but I wouldn't have used them there I am also just busting your chops a bit though (which I'm sure can be taken the wrong way over the interwebz, but it is in jest, and I surly wouldn't do it if your work was crap) Everything looks good. I see why I just checked out the other pictures and both fire places have a small piece! Blame DEAN for the other one! I was at the Gadget show so I couldnt keep an eye on him JMB Blame Simon he picked every board in that floor |
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sean_hogan
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« Reply #126 on: April 19, 2012, 05:03 PM » |
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Jmb round the fireplace did you domino the wrap round too the other floor if you get what I mean. I'm sure the tounge and groove wouldn't match up. How was it done , REALLY love your work, wish icouldget experience too learn and do more complicated work, sick of doing facing and skirting lol
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wrote using my fingers
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #127 on: April 19, 2012, 05:14 PM » |
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Jmb round the fireplace did you domino the wrap round too the other floor if you get what I mean. I'm sure the tounge and groove wouldn't match up. How was it done , REALLY love your work, wish icouldget experience too learn and do more complicated work, sick of doing facing and skirting lol
All the mitre frames around the fire place I made before hand and the mitres are dominod together. I cut the floor boards down to 110mm cutting the Grooves off leaving the Tongue on. So the frames had a tongue all round. So the boards which go into it will have to have a groove. So like you can see in one of the fire places the boards are notched round. It would be difficult to add a fixed tongue to them but loose tongue is possible but pointless if you just leave the tongue on the frame around the fire place. Its easier to stick a groove into a board than making a tongue for a board which isnt to difficult but if you your slightly out of square its hassle to recut the shoulders to fit Atleast with a groove you make the groove deeper so you can adjust the cut on the end of the board to fit. I set up my OF2200 router in my CMS so I could easily put the grooves into the boards when they where cut the tongue and ''new'' grooves matched up perfectly. I didnt want to use dominos because if the board was to shrink away you would see the dominos and not a continuous tongue. JMB |
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« Last Edit: April 19, 2012, 05:49 PM by jmbfestool »
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Wonderwino
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« Reply #128 on: April 20, 2012, 09:28 AM » |
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JMB.. I see you still have the fun job ahead of you of working out the doors for this (sink unit bottom left) Without seeing the full section of the cabinet, I would propose a tambour type door for the front, perhaps backed with polyethyline sheet, rather than canvass, due to the damp location. |
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Water separates the people of the world; wine unites them.
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Alan m
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« Reply #129 on: April 20, 2012, 01:46 PM » |
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JMB.. I see you still have the fun job ahead of you of working out the doors for this (sink unit bottom left) Without seeing the full section of the cabinet, I would propose a tambour type door for the front, perhaps backed with polyethyline sheet, rather than canvass, due to the damp location. go to page 2 of this thread for a better pic |
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now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
wish list
of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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Deansocial
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« Reply #130 on: April 20, 2012, 02:08 PM » |
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JMB.. I see you still have the fun job ahead of you of working out the doors for this (sink unit bottom left) Without seeing the full section of the cabinet, I would propose a tambour type door for the front, perhaps backed with polyethyline sheet, rather than canvass, due to the damp location. i can't think of a better way to completly ruin the look of the cabinet. |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #131 on: September 16, 2012, 02:49 PM » |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #132 on: September 16, 2012, 02:54 PM » |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #133 on: September 16, 2012, 03:13 PM » |
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woodguy7
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« Reply #134 on: September 17, 2012, 12:31 PM » |
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That is some very nice work there. I think the bevels on the oak edging at the top of the stairs is a little too deep for such small pieces, but hey, I'm being really picky here What are the drawer boxes made off, construction details & did you make it all or did Dean bail you out again |
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
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Deansocial
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« Reply #135 on: September 17, 2012, 01:49 PM » |
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That is some very nice work there. I think the bevels on the oak edging at the top of the stairs is a little too deep for such small pieces, but hey, I'm being really picky here What are the drawer boxes made off, construction details & did you make it all or did Dean bail you out again Think itsto match the floor woodguy. It will look right when stained the same No i wasn't there this time. |
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« Last Edit: September 17, 2012, 05:40 PM by Deansocial »
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #136 on: September 17, 2012, 01:58 PM » |
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That is some very nice work there. I think the bevels on the oak edging at the top of the stairs is a little too deep for such small pieces, but hey, I'm being really picky here What are the drawer boxes made off, construction details & did you make it all or did Dean bail you out again I totally agree with you! I was block planning away and I had to chisel the top tread cus it was already fitted It was an after thought I came up with the frame work around and I ended up making little boo boo and had to make the bevel a little bigger which meant all of it had to be bigger at first I thought aaaah be alrite but then when laying the floor I was like Dam its bit big wish it was smaller but its gotta be sanded so ill sand the face abit which will hopefully lower it a little ............. maybe ......lol |
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« Last Edit: September 17, 2012, 02:03 PM by jmbfestool »
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #137 on: September 17, 2012, 02:06 PM » |
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That is some very nice work there. I think the bevels on the oak edging at the top of the stairs is a little too deep for such small pieces, but hey, I'm being really picky here What are the drawer boxes made off, construction details & did you make it all or did Dean bail you out again Think itsto match the floor woodguy. It will look right when stained the same YEah true Dean just the bevels are a little on the big side though cud of been smaller. It will look better once stained cus they will look black like the flooring just had to find a stain to match think found something which will match the flooring. Gotta do da sometime yay! Love staining sanding NOT! French polish .... No fun at all glad my mate Dan loved doing it! I think I might get him to do these stairs also seems to like doing stuff like this cus he really got into french polishing! He was on if for few days. I soon get bored. JMB |
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« Last Edit: September 17, 2012, 02:07 PM by jmbfestool »
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Nigel
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« Reply #138 on: September 17, 2012, 02:08 PM » |
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That is some very nice work there. I think the bevels on the oak edging at the top of the stairs is a little too deep for such small pieces, but hey, I'm being really picky here What are the drawer boxes made off, construction details & did you make it all or did Dean bail you out again I totally agree with you! I was block planning away and I had to chisel the top tread cus it was already fitted It was an after thought I came up with the frame work around and I ended up making little boo boo and had to make the bevel a little bigger which meant all of it had to be bigger at first I thought aaaah be alrite but then when laying the floor I was like Dam its bit big wish it was smaller but its gotta be sanded so ill sand the face abit which will hopefully lower it a little ............. maybe ......lol I kinda liked that bit  |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #139 on: September 17, 2012, 02:12 PM » |
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That is some very nice work there. I think the bevels on the oak edging at the top of the stairs is a little too deep for such small pieces, but hey, I'm being really picky here What are the drawer boxes made off, construction details & did you make it all or did Dean bail you out again The draw boxes are Dominoed! I used tulip for the sides and 12mm ash face MDF for the bottom as Ash seems to be a very close match to tulip. I used Blum softclose runners. No I have not had Dean help me on these jobs. Dean helped me with doing most of the flooring on this job apart from the bit of flooring you can in the pictures upstairs and downstairs which is like only 20% off the total flooring done in the house JMB |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #140 on: September 17, 2012, 02:17 PM » |
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That is some very nice work there. I think the bevels on the oak edging at the top of the stairs is a little too deep for such small pieces, but hey, I'm being really picky here What are the drawer boxes made off, construction details & did you make it all or did Dean bail you out again I totally agree with you! I was block planning away and I had to chisel the top tread cus it was already fitted It was an after thought I came up with the frame work around and I ended up making little boo boo and had to make the bevel a little bigger which meant all of it had to be bigger at first I thought aaaah be alrite but then when laying the floor I was like Dam its bit big wish it was smaller but its gotta be sanded so ill sand the face abit which will hopefully lower it a little ............. maybe ......lol I kinda liked that bit lol yeah nothing wrong I just wish it was more subtle bevel thats all. Its annoying cus it wasnt what I wanted! If I messed up a piece I would of thrown it away with a bevel like da and redone it but cus it was the tread on the stairs which needed abit of TLC I couldnt alter it. Had to chisel the mitre on the top tread you see. I fitted the stairs but when I came back to the job I was like a mitre frame around would look nice so got some more oak and did that. JMB |
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« Last Edit: September 17, 2012, 06:56 PM by jmbfestool »
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Tom Bellemare
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« Reply #141 on: September 17, 2012, 05:23 PM » |
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It looks nice, JMB.
Are there no standard practices to protect children? I see a pony, of sorts...
Tom
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Tom Bellemare
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« Reply #142 on: September 17, 2012, 06:16 PM » |
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I didn't catch the part about the glass... That should look very cool.
Tom
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #143 on: September 17, 2012, 06:23 PM » |
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I didn't catch the part about the glass... That should look very cool.
Tom
Oh sorry I thought u was suggesting something should be in place for safety now untill its finished sorry. YEah its having Glass panels but I cant fit them yet untill the stairs are stained and sealed. Trying the match the floor JMB |
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« Last Edit: September 17, 2012, 06:56 PM by jmbfestool »
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Tom Bellemare
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« Reply #144 on: September 17, 2012, 06:31 PM » |
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Maybe if you can't match it, you go contrasting like the ceiling beams.
I have some french doors made of cedar and a threshold that is pt pine. I couldn't match them so I stained the threshold ebony. I liked it.
Tom
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #145 on: September 17, 2012, 06:43 PM » |
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Maybe if you can't match it, you go contrasting like the ceiling beams.
I have some french doors made of cedar and a threshold that is pt pine. I couldn't match them so I stained the threshold ebony. I liked it.
Tom
yes very true and I did mention it to the client but she kinda looked at me to say are you sure.............. and I was like ummmmm I dont know lol JMB |
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mattfc
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« Reply #146 on: September 18, 2012, 03:49 AM » |
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I think one of my favourite bits is the bevel you put in the round window, make much more of a feature of it, and its looks really crisp
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #147 on: September 18, 2012, 05:17 PM » |
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I think one of my favourite bits is the bevel you put in the round window, make much more of a feature of it, and its looks really crisp
Cheers! I was suppose to only do the joinery work for that round window but I ended up having to plasterboard it and bead it also as the plasters said it couldnt be done or more like cudnt be bothered. The joiners/builder before me on this job did it so it came out square from the round window. I hated it and its also a dust collection area. So I ripped out all the studding and created what you see now. Its nice like you said make a good feature point but also lets more light in. JMB |
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Michael Kellough
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« Reply #148 on: September 18, 2012, 06:18 PM » |
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 That bevel is very nice. I'd like to know how you did it. Another question, what is that round reflective thing on the floor in front of the wicker chair? |
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Deansocial
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« Reply #149 on: September 18, 2012, 06:28 PM » |
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Its a well with a glass top
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woodguy7
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« Reply #150 on: September 19, 2012, 11:31 AM » |
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Ok Dean, your gona have to elaborate a bit more on that  Sounds kinda funky |
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
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Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #151 on: September 19, 2012, 01:17 PM » |
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That section of the kitchen use to be out side but they extended the house. They didnt want to fill the well in cus they thought it wud be a shame so they decided to get glass made to fit flush with the floor so you can walk over the well and look down. When you look through the glass it looks a bit like this..... http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_GTckuC1ShiY/SUtz4DePIZI/AAAAAAAABFI/3VU442G81fw/s320/well.JPGI havent got a picture of the well its self because I didnt have any involvement in doing it. I dont normally take pictures of stuff unless I have been involved or done the job. JMB |
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woodguy7
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« Reply #152 on: September 19, 2012, 01:21 PM » |
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Sounds really nice, did they put a light in it ?
Won't that be a cold spot in the floor ?
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #153 on: September 19, 2012, 01:35 PM » |
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Most likely but its all tiled with under floor heating so if u dont want cold feet just dont stand on the glass lol Yeah they have but not much thought has gone into it to be fair. The metal frame to support the glass is a tight fit around the well so no room to hide lights so they used LED lights but they are not bright enough to really light the well up. Ill suggest to them later to use some fancy out door lights so you will see them but they will look nice but will at least light the well up so you can actually see right down. On another job I was working on few years ago they had a well in their kitchen aswell but they put a rectangle glass ontop on the round well infront of the door so it looked like a door matt out of glass. This allowed me to fix a out door hallogon under the section hidden away and the well lit up super bright and looked really good. Funny thing is GUTTED for any one who wanted to walk through the door way into the hall as they had no choice but to walk over the well. Little scary standing on glass even though I knew how thick it was and strong. The same people had a seller under the hall way so they had a glass panel fitted at the front door aswell years ago! The glass had worn so much it was like frosted glass not clear any more and it was hallow I recon it had worn down by 10mm in the middle. JMB |
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« Last Edit: September 19, 2012, 01:39 PM by jmbfestool »
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Tinker
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« Reply #154 on: September 19, 2012, 03:53 PM » |
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When we (Mother, brother and I) moved into our house in Wilton, Ct right after the WWII had ended, we had no running water, electricity, indoor plumbing, central heating. We did have a hand dug well with a cast iron hand pump just outside the kitchen door. It was my job to keep water supplied to the house. The first project for me, every day, was to get water from the well. I had to make sure there was enough water left to prime the pump. In the winter, it had to be hot water. Sometimes, there was not enough hot water to thaw the pump and i had to go to neighbors for enough hot water to do the job. every summer, we had to be very careful in how we used water. The well would go nearly dry and i had to ration to the family. about the third summer, the drougth was so severe, no amount of rationing would keep enough water in the bottom of the well. I had to climb down with short shovel and pick and add four feet to the bottom and drop in a couple of tile liners. The digging was not the hardest part. I am somewhat claustrophobic and so the toughest part of the job was to keep my mind under control. (Ok, I suppose that one sets up for some kind remarks  ) A few years later, we had another dry spell and so we got a "pounder" machine in and then we had water to spare. The trouble with the drilled well was the water was full of iron and sulphur. The water, altho now plentiful, was smelling of rotten eggs and all dishes and utensils acquired rings of rust. JMB, your photo brings back much memory. Some great and some not so much. Tinker |
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Wayne H. Tinker
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #155 on: September 19, 2012, 06:22 PM » |
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When we (Mother, brother and I) moved into our house in Wilton, Ct right after the WWII had ended, we had no running water, electricity, indoor plumbing, central heating. We did have a hand dug well with a cast iron hand pump just outside the kitchen door. It was my job to keep water supplied to the house. The first project for me, every day, was to get water from the well. I had to make sure there was enough water left to prime the pump. In the winter, it had to be hot water. Sometimes, there was not enough hot water to thaw the pump and i had to go to neighbors for enough hot water to do the job. every summer, we had to be very careful in how we used water. The well would go nearly dry and i had to ration to the family. about the third summer, the drougth was so severe, no amount of rationing would keep enough water in the bottom of the well. I had to climb down with short shovel and pick and add four feet to the bottom and drop in a couple of tile liners. The digging was not the hardest part. I am somewhat claustrophobic and so the toughest part of the job was to keep my mind under control. (Ok, I suppose that one sets up for some kind remarks ) A few years later, we had another dry spell and so we got a "pounder" machine in and then we had water to spare. The trouble with the drilled well was the water was full of iron and sulphur. The water, altho now plentiful, was smelling of rotten eggs and all dishes and utensils acquired rings of rust. JMB, your photo brings back much memory. Some great and some not so much. Tinker Nice story! |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #156 on: September 19, 2012, 06:34 PM » |
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Here you go Michael Kellough Picture of how I did it.  |
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mattfc
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« Reply #157 on: September 20, 2012, 05:53 AM » |
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Here you go Michael Kellough
Picture of how I did it.
yes but how did you line the bevel bit? Lots of segments? |
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Michael Kellough
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Southern New York
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« Reply #158 on: September 20, 2012, 09:59 AM » |
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Here you go Michael Kellough
Picture of how I did it.
yes but how did you line the bevel bit? Lots of segments?That's what I'm guessing all those ribs are for. A long flexible knife will feather the mud into the valleys. If you could figure out the arcs for laying in long pieces of wallboard you wouldn't need half as many ribs but you'd consume a full sheet of wallboard vs less than half. |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #159 on: September 20, 2012, 02:18 PM » |
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Oh sorry I made lots of pieces of tapered plaster board pieces which lapped half way on the 2x2 timber I then scored few lines down the back of the boards so they would snap to fallow the curve more.
I had them sailing past and when I done them all I cut them of with a handsaw they where flush to the face.
Then using a bead I bent that round and screwed it as I went round. That bit was the hard bit trying to keep it flowing as it wanted to leave straight sections.
JMB
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« Last Edit: September 20, 2012, 02:19 PM by jmbfestool »
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Deansocial
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« Reply #160 on: September 20, 2012, 03:21 PM » |
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Here you go Michael Kellough
Picture of how I did it.
yes but how did you line the bevel bit? Lots of segments?That's what I'm guessing all those ribs are for. A long flexible knife will feather the mud into the valleys. If you could figure out the arcs for laying in long pieces of wallboard you wouldn't need half as many ribs but you'd consume a full sheet of wallboard vs less than half. No mud would be used, it would be plastered with gypsum plaster |
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woodguy7
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« Reply #161 on: September 20, 2012, 03:39 PM » |
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #162 on: September 28, 2012, 02:50 AM » |
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Sorry!
I didn't know it was full wondered why I hadn't received any messages lately.
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jimbouk
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« Reply #163 on: January 07, 2013, 02:55 PM » |
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JMB, could you tell me a bit more about the arches, you mentioned they and the cabinets were sprayed on site? did you do it mate and if so what were you using. Cheers. Great work btw |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #164 on: January 07, 2013, 04:50 PM » |
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JMB, could you tell me a bit more about the arches, you mentioned they and the cabinets were sprayed on site? did you do it mate and if so what were you using. Cheers. Great work btw Yeah I sprayed them with the paint which was on the job I don't normally spray. It's just that the client asked me. I only did the undercoat. The arches wa would u like to know about them??? |
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jimbouk
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« Reply #165 on: January 10, 2013, 03:10 AM » |
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JMB, could you tell me a bit more about the arches, you mentioned they and the cabinets were sprayed on site? did you do it mate and if so what were you using. Cheers. Great work btw Yeah I sprayed them with the paint which was on the job I don't normally spray. It's just that the client asked me. I only did the undercoat. The arches wa would u like to know about them??? Was wondering if you used and hvlp or normal compressor and if you used AC/PU paint or if it was water based. I might have to do an on site spray job on and attic unit and am trying to work out the best way and if i even want to! |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #166 on: January 10, 2013, 03:38 AM » |
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JMB, could you tell me a bit more about the arches, you mentioned they and the cabinets were sprayed on site? did you do it mate and if so what were you using. Cheers. Great work btw Yeah I sprayed them with the paint which was on the job I don't normally spray. It's just that the client asked me. I only did the undercoat. The arches wa would u like to know about them??? Was wondering if you used and hvlp or normal compressor and if you used AC/PU paint or if it was water based. I might have to do an on site spray job on and attic unit and am trying to work out the best way and if i even want to! I didnt spray the main arches the client painted them from scratch ( not very good) I sprayed the units, small arches undercoat only Well I used emulsion at first which was recommended by windmill man here on FOG. At first I thought it was good cus one spray and then a sand got it smooth plus it gave it a undercoat. Instead of using pva which would only seal it. But I found using emulsion is not that good for durability and didnt seal it fully on first coat so required a sand and then second coat and sand. A unit which was painted with a few coats by hand by the client after I put emulsion on would chip more easily but when it chipped off it chipped off right back down to the MDF like the emulsion didnt stick. Also another thing bad about emulsion because its water base your MDF will bend if you just spray one side of the MDF you have to spray both sides to keep your MDF stable. So I decided to use oil base undercoat paint which is loads better! I was able to get the MDF alot smoother once I sanded it in just one coat and is a lot more durable. I wish I never used the emulsion bad idea get the feeling some one was having a laugh. I used a portable hvlp cus it was only to get the undercoat on quick and evenly for me to sand smooth ready for the client. For the client to do a poor job at filling and painting[crying] I don't normally spray for clients but it is something I want to get into just learning curve! I ain't no professional in this! |
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« Last Edit: January 10, 2013, 02:45 PM by jmbfestool »
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jimbouk
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« Reply #167 on: January 10, 2013, 05:46 AM » |
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JMB, could you tell me a bit more about the arches, you mentioned they and the cabinets were sprayed on site? did you do it mate and if so what were you using. Cheers. Great work btw Yeah I sprayed them with the paint which was on the job I don't normally spray. It's just that the client asked me. I only did the undercoat. The arches wa would u like to know about them??? Was wondering if you used and hvlp or normal compressor and if you used AC/PU paint or if it was water based. I might have to do an on site spray job on and attic unit and am trying to work out the best way and if i even want to! I didnt spray the arches the client painted them from scratch ( not very good) I sprayed the units undercoat only Well I used emulsion at first which was recommended by windmill man here on FOG. At first I thought it was good cus one spray and then a sand got it smooth plus it gave it a undercoat. Instead of using pva which would only seal it. But I found using emulsion is not that good for durability and didnt seal it fully on first coat so required a sand and then second coat and sand. A unit which was painted with a few coats by hand by the client after I put emulsion on would chip more easily but when it chipped off it chipped off right back down to the MDF like the emulsion didnt stick. Also another thing bad about emulsion because its water base your MDF will bend if you just spray one side of the MDF you have to spray both sides to keep your MDF stable. So I decided to use oil base undercoat paint which is loads better! I was able to get the MDF alot smoother once I sanded it in just one coat and is a lot more durable. I wish I never used the emulsion bad idea get the feeling some one was having a laugh. I used a portable hvlp cus it was only to get the undercoat on quick and evenly for me to sand smooth ready for the client. For the client to do a poor job at filling and painting[crying] I don't normally spray for clients but it is something I want to get into just learning curve! I ain't no professional in this! Nice one cheers. I would never spray emulsion onto mdf, think you got stitched up there mate  I was wondering as we have sprayed acid cat once before but it stinks and that was a building site and this is a lived in house so it's a no go. Unfortunately it's just not possible to do this one in the spray shop. |
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woodguy7
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« Reply #168 on: January 10, 2013, 07:28 AM » |
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I have put emulsion onto mdf as a primer before. I didn't spray it, i rolled it with a 100mm foam roller. It gave me good results with an oil paint on top ! Maybe spraying is different. I sanded all the mdf with 120 grit to take the shininess away from it & give the paint something to grip to.
I don't think Windmill Man was trying to stitch you up.
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
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mattfc
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« Reply #169 on: January 10, 2013, 08:43 AM » |
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Dulux trade do a decent water based MDF primer that is designed for spraying, I had no problems with using a Fuji Q4, you need to water it down a little, then what worked for me was lots of light mist coats in pretty quick succession, e.g. by the time I had finished going from once side to the other, it was dry enough for me to start again. I did about 5 lights coats in succession, then waited a couple of hours and did the same, ended up with a good solid base coat of primer, then sprayed Dulux trade diamond satinwood. this was the end result  |
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jimbouk
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« Reply #170 on: January 10, 2013, 09:56 AM » |
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Dulux trade do a decent water based MDF primer that is designed for spraying, I had no problems with using a Fuji Q4, you need to water it down a little, then what worked for me was lots of light mist coats in pretty quick succession, e.g. by the time I had finished going from once side to the other, it was dry enough for me to start again. I did about 5 lights coats in succession, then waited a couple of hours and did the same, ended up with a good solid base coat of primer, then sprayed Dulux trade diamond satinwood. this was the end result Thanks for that Matt, I'm going to try that out I think. Thanks for the info and nice unit mate! |
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Tim Raleigh
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« Reply #171 on: January 10, 2013, 10:58 AM » |
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JMB: Those arches, and all the work look really good. Well I used emulsion at first which was recommended by windmill man here on FOG. At first I thought it was good cus one spray and then a sand got it smooth plus it gave it a undercoat. Instead of using pva which would only seal it.
Interesting. I don't know what emulsion is maybe it goes by a different name here. What's the chemistry of emulsion? What does it contain? A unit which was painted with a few coats by hand by the client after I put emulsion on would chip more easily but when it chipped off it chipped off right back down to the MDF like the emulsion didnt stick.
Interesting, I am curious what kind of paint (solvent based or water borne) did the client use to paint the arches? So I decided to use oil base undercoat paint which is loads better! I was able to get the MDF alot smoother once I sanded it in just one coat and is a lot more durable.
Was this after you used the emulsion on the same arch or a different arch? How do you know the chipping wasn't on an arch that you used the oil base undercoat? Tim |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #172 on: January 10, 2013, 01:58 PM » |
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I have put emulsion onto mdf as a primer before. I didn't spray it, i rolled it with a 100mm foam roller. It gave me good results with an oil paint on top ! Maybe spraying is different. I sanded all the mdf with 120 grit to take the shininess away from it & give the paint something to grip to.
I don't think Windmill Man was trying to stitch you up.
Yeah but it's not the first time he's taken the ..... out of me is it. |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #173 on: January 10, 2013, 02:05 PM » |
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JMB: Those arches, and all the work look really good. Well I used emulsion at first which was recommended by windmill man here on FOG. At first I thought it was good cus one spray and then a sand got it smooth plus it gave it a undercoat. Instead of using pva which would only seal it.
Interesting. I don't know what emulsion is maybe it goes by a different name here. What's the chemistry of emulsion? What does it contain? A unit which was painted with a few coats by hand by the client after I put emulsion on would chip more easily but when it chipped off it chipped off right back down to the MDF like the emulsion didnt stick.
Interesting, I am curious what kind of paint (solvent based or water borne) did the client use to paint the arches? So I decided to use oil base undercoat paint which is loads better! I was able to get the MDF alot smoother once I sanded it in just one coat and is a lot more durable.
Was this after you used the emulsion on the same arch or a different arch? How do you know the chipping wasn't on an arch that you used the oil base undercoat? Tim All I know is emulsion contains water and is mostly used for painting walls and ceilings The client used a acrylic paint which they really slapped on. I tried to sand it back for them but it just clogs up my Rotex sand paper very quickly. It looks fine but they have two LED lights shinning up the arch and when u turn them on you see the poor runny painting and filling by the client. |
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« Last Edit: January 10, 2013, 02:44 PM by jmbfestool »
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Deansocial
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« Reply #174 on: January 10, 2013, 02:26 PM » |
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The emulsion would have been vinyl matt more than likely. The paint on arches would have been farrow and ball, little greene or fired earth i think
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #175 on: January 10, 2013, 02:36 PM » |
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The emulsion would have been vinyl matt more than likely. The paint on arches would have been farrow and ball, little greene or fired earth i think
Little Green as final coat but dont know wa the client used as undercoat on the main arches though. |
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« Last Edit: January 10, 2013, 02:45 PM by jmbfestool »
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #176 on: January 10, 2013, 02:53 PM » |
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Deansocial
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« Reply #177 on: January 10, 2013, 02:55 PM » |
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Firm i sub to always use aluminium primer
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #178 on: January 10, 2013, 02:58 PM » |
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Firm i sub to always use aluminium primer
On MDF? |
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Deansocial
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« Reply #179 on: January 10, 2013, 03:01 PM » |
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Yeah why
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #180 on: January 10, 2013, 03:01 PM » |
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Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #181 on: January 10, 2013, 03:02 PM » |
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vid?? Pictures get boring
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woodguy7
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« Reply #182 on: January 10, 2013, 03:14 PM » |
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Nice touch with the video. Should do more of them. I always use aluminium primer on Mahogany. Only primer that really sticks to Mahogany. Bloody expensive though !
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #183 on: January 10, 2013, 03:29 PM » |
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Nice touch with the video. Should do more of them. I always use aluminium primer on Mahogany. Only primer that really sticks to Mahogany. Bloody expensive though !
Ill try! Vids are good to see the entire job more easily I think |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #184 on: January 10, 2013, 03:34 PM » |
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These wardrobe doors made and have been fitted and sprayed with oil based paint. Ill see if I can find pictures with them fitted.   |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #185 on: January 10, 2013, 07:18 PM » |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #186 on: January 10, 2013, 07:26 PM » |
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Jalvis
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« Reply #187 on: January 10, 2013, 08:08 PM » |
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I Really like those wardrobe doors. How about some details on the construction.
How are the Muntins installed to the Door?
Did you paint the doors and then Install the Glass?
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #188 on: January 11, 2013, 03:01 AM » |
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I Really like those wardrobe doors. How about some details on the construction.
How are the Muntins installed to the Door?
Did you paint the doors and then Install the Glass?
Doors are made of tulip and MDF panel. 4 Doors are like you see in the pictures other 4 have mirrors and 2 were smaller plain doors. The mirrors are one solid panel with the beads stuck on the face. Taped the entire mirror up first then using a Stanley knife cut out exactly where the cross beads where going. I sprayed these doors with a oil base undercoat paint. The doors are dominod together. Other tools used for the doors were Festool OF2200 in the CMS, rotex and gilatine trimmer. They were all made in site. |
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Tinker
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« Reply #189 on: January 11, 2013, 08:38 AM » |
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JMB, Great job. I have, at times, struggled with finishing where something like you muntons cross glass or wood. Your solution of taping everything and then cutting where they cross is sooooo simple, i wonder why a smart guy like me never thought of it. Oh well, I guess i still have a little of the heavier hammer and less mud in my mind. I'll get there one of these days as long as guys like you keep boring us with your endless pictorials.  But, no kidding, your work is great and I do appreciate the effort you put in to show & tell how you did it. Tinker |
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Wayne H. Tinker
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #190 on: March 17, 2013, 06:37 PM » |
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Thought just post some curved doors I did other day with the curvomatic brilliant kit Here is one finished door I sprayed up with undercoat only. Rear of door  Front of door  |
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Alan m
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« Reply #191 on: March 17, 2013, 06:47 PM » |
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curve o mattic
is that the extruded aluminium system that can bend
any more pics build the door
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now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
wish list
of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #192 on: March 17, 2013, 06:56 PM » |
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curve o mattic
is that the extruded aluminium system that can bend
any more pics build the door
Yes it is and yeah I have! |
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galwaydude18
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« Reply #193 on: March 17, 2013, 06:58 PM » |
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Any pics of that system and how you built the door using it? Lovely looking door by the way!!
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #194 on: March 17, 2013, 07:04 PM » |
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galwaydude18
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« Reply #195 on: March 17, 2013, 07:07 PM » |
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Is the door made from separate pieces or one piece? I never saw that system before. Looks really good.
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Alan m
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« Reply #196 on: March 17, 2013, 07:09 PM » |
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thanks jmb.
what do you think of the system. is it wortht he cost
how did you make the door. was it solid layers and then a few layers with the center cut out
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now
ts 55+2 1400 rails+ 1 lr32 1400 rail, domino+assortment systainer+ domiplate, ct 22 with boom arm+home made thien baffel, lr32 set, rotex 150, home made MFT,home made work center, 6 t locs for other tools, of2000 , ro 90, mft 800, trion , ls 130
wish list
of 1400, MFT 3,, even more t locs for other tools
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #197 on: March 17, 2013, 07:14 PM » |
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Not got any pics stage by stage sorry Here is one of the doors before painted  |
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galwaydude18
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« Reply #198 on: March 17, 2013, 07:21 PM » |
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Did u use 6mm for the flat panel then 12mm for the rails and stiles? Route the profile on the rails and stiles and mitre the corner of the profile and glue it all up in that jig then?
I'm guessing here to be honest
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Tim Raleigh
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« Reply #199 on: March 17, 2013, 07:26 PM » |
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Thought just post some curved doors I did other day with the curvomatic brilliant kit
Front of door
Very cool. I think (curve) it looks great. How did you deal with the molding to have it form to the curve? Tim |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #200 on: March 17, 2013, 07:30 PM » |
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thanks jmb.
what do you think of the system. is it wortht he cost
how did you make the door. was it solid layers and then a few layers with the center cut out
Good system!! Love it! Saves alot of time! Once u drilled the holes and assembled it which takes some time!!! But once done its done for ever! Then from then on you just simply make two curves out of plywood or MDF job done for just a simple curve. If your doing a S shape like I have done then you need to make four curved temples two male two female. What I use to do was make up a box frame work which takes longer isn't as good and bigger and waists money on 2x2 and lots of screws. Curvomatic is quicker saves on material but also storage. Because you can keep two 18mm pieces of ply for later but a large curved box takes up more room. |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #201 on: March 17, 2013, 07:47 PM » |
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Did u use 6mm for the flat panel then 12mm for the rails and stiles? Route the profile on the rails and stiles and mitre the corner of the profile and glue it all up in that jig then?
I'm guessing here to be honest
I used materials which were already on the job as left overs. Had a full 9mm sheet of green MDF 18mm MDF and some hard board. That's why the door is abit of a miss match in colour but hey who cares being painted. So what I did Made few rip cuts at 150mm wide with 9mm MDF then with my thicknesser I thinned the 9mm down to about 2mm then I glued 8 layers together and curved them in the curvo matic while the two 150mm wide strips then Made the beading which I didn't bend I actually cut the curve pieces with jig saw and Routerd the mould onto them. then I would of liked to thinned down the 9mm MDF again for the solid back but wouldn't fit in my thicknesser so I decided to use the hard board as its thinner in the first place glueing up 3 layers. Not recommend just 3 layers as u do get slight spring back very slight I got zero spring back with the MDF 8 layers. then the 150mm pieces I ripped down to 65mm for the rails so I got 4 from the 2 I glued up. then when the hardboard was solid I marked out where I wanted the styles and rails and glued them onto the hard board placing them back into the jig. then Cus I just used the 18mm for the styles they didnt have curve I shaped them with the rotex one with slight hallow other side slight round. Wasnt going to spend time just glueing layers for the styles for such a small amount if curve wasnt worth it. then I fixed the beading on. It was but awkward getting the angles for the mitres. Done??? |
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« Last Edit: March 17, 2013, 08:01 PM by jmbfestool »
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #202 on: March 17, 2013, 07:58 PM » |
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Tom, Galway, Alan -----^
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #203 on: March 17, 2013, 08:07 PM » |
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While I'm posting ill post the corbels I made not so long ago.   |
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #204 on: March 17, 2013, 08:11 PM » |
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duburban
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« Reply #205 on: March 17, 2013, 10:21 PM » |
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your mft top is beat mate!
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ts75, ts55, ro150feq, ets150/3, trion, ct26, mft1080, estension wings, of1400, parallel guides, dts400, df500,
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #206 on: March 18, 2013, 03:19 AM » |
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your mft top is beat mate!
Yip and that's even hardly used either. Hardly ever take it on jobs. Ill get my Cnc once its up and running to make me another one but might so it with plastic so atleast I can use it outside and leave it outside if it starts raining. Jmb |
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Tinker
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« Reply #207 on: March 18, 2013, 07:14 AM » |
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Great work JMB. I really admire what you do "on site". you have a lot of imagination.
i wonder about using plastic outside (if you are actually serious) When i was in construction, a lot of goys used gun racks in the back window of their trucks to carry 4' levels. I never had any problem doing that as my levels were all aluminum I-beam type with solid wood fillers both sides. Some of my friends went to the cheaper plastic levels and very soon, from hanging on those racks in the summer heat (with or without direct sun on them), the levels were warped. Some of them (better ones maybe) were imperceptible but a lot of problems in use. Others were bent like an archer's bow.
I am sure improvements have been made since I left the trade, but I am just as sure i would not trust plastic for something like an MFT top to be used out side.
I still have several of my old I-beam levels. I cannot find them any more. They really took a lot of beating. the guys who used plastic were constantly replacing. (Note: I have been away from construction for over 30 years, so definitely not QUITE up on some of newer developments.)
Tinker
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Wayne H. Tinker
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
Posts: 5239
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« Reply #208 on: March 18, 2013, 08:50 AM » |
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Great work JMB. I really admire what you do "on site". you have a lot of imagination.
i wonder about using plastic outside (if you are actually serious) When i was in construction, a lot of goys used gun racks in the back window of their trucks to carry 4' levels. I never had any problem doing that as my levels were all aluminum I-beam type with solid wood fillers both sides. Some of my friends went to the cheaper plastic levels and very soon, from hanging on those racks in the summer heat (with or without direct sun on them), the levels were warped. Some of them (better ones maybe) were imperceptible but a lot of problems in use. Others were bent like an archer's bow.
I am sure improvements have been made since I left the trade, but I am just as sure i would not trust plastic for something like an MFT top to be used out side.
I still have several of my old I-beam levels. I cannot find them any more. They really took a lot of beating. the guys who used plastic were constantly replacing. (Note: I have been away from construction for over 30 years, so definitely not QUITE up on some of newer developments.)
Tinker
Yea was being serious. Would have to look into prices first though Jmb |
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mattfc
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Location: Hertfordshire, UK Member Since: Oct 2008
Posts: 466
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« Reply #209 on: March 18, 2013, 03:50 PM » |
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with my thicknesser I thinned the 9mm down to about 2mm
MDF is pretty abrasive, isn't that going to kill your blades? |
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
Posts: 5239
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« Reply #210 on: March 18, 2013, 04:03 PM » |
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with my thicknesser I thinned the 9mm down to about 2mm
MDF is pretty abrasive, isn't that going to kill your blades? Yeah but no big deal get them sharpened. |
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MAK
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Location: Beds uk Member Since: Apr 2011
Posts: 74
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« Reply #211 on: March 18, 2013, 05:53 PM » |
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Very nice jmb! Side point- where did u get woodpecker square from?? Can't seem to find one in uk. I need a large accurate square. |
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Kapex & UG, TS55, MFT3, OF1400, C15, CXS, Carvex, Midi, T15, EHL65
Rts400, CTL26
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
Posts: 5239
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« Reply #212 on: March 18, 2013, 06:00 PM » |
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Ken who use to be a member here on FOG who lives in the USA shipped it over to me.
Very nice square!! Same as you I wanted a decent square and their aint any in the UK really.
Jmb
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Mauri Motti
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Location: Finland Member Since: Feb 2011
Posts: 209
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« Reply #213 on: March 19, 2013, 10:28 AM » |
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Rutland sells Woodpecker in the UK though not the square seen in JMB's pics. They might be able getting one I guess.
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