Author Topic: Refacing project, part II  (Read 3381 times)

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Offline HowardH

  • Posts: 1130
Refacing project, part II
« on: November 04, 2007, 09:11 PM »
Ok, I  believe I have the construction of my new doors down but now comes the what most folks think is the hardest part - the finishing.  My choice is to paint, not really a choice since the the rest of the kitchen is already painted.  I have a cheap HVLP sprayer from Woodcraft, their $99 special and quickly found it isn't up to the task of properly applying latex, even after thinning. Big time orange peel.   I'm considering getting a real turbine system like a Fuji Q3.  Any comments on this approach or would appreciate any other systems that you have used which will work with latex.  I want spend about $700-800 max.  Thanks in advance.
Howard H
The Dallas Texas Festool Fanatic!

Mark Twain:  "I didn't attend the funeral, but I sent a letter approving of it." "If you tell the truth you don't have to remember anything."

mft1080, Trion, MFT/3, T15, OF 1400, RO150FEQ, TS55, RTS400, CT22, CT36E, 800, 1080, 1400, 1900 rails, CSX, Vecturo, Qwas dogs, Parf Dogs, Zobo's, Syslite Uni, CMS GE

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Offline Eli

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  • A Yankee in Kangaroo Court
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Re: Refacing project, part II
« Reply #1 on: November 04, 2007, 09:43 PM »
There's a lot of discussion about the Q4. Mr Ronyak and Mr Work both use them I believe. I'll see if I run across the thread
Do nothing, stay ahead.

Offline Qwas

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    • Qwas Products
Re: Refacing project, part II
« Reply #2 on: November 04, 2007, 11:56 PM »
I just bought a Fuji S4 that was on sale. It was mentioned somewhere in this FOG. I'm new to spray painting but so far I like the Fuji S4.

All turbine HVLP systems will have problems with latex. It is too thick to spray effectively. You need to use the largest needle made for your gun and add Flotrol to the paint. You can buy Flotrol at Home Depot. If you still want to use latex perhaps someone else can give you more advice.


Offline Corwin

  • Posts: 2643
Re: Refacing project, part II
« Reply #3 on: November 05, 2007, 04:13 AM »
Those Fuji SE4's were going fast.  Check out the tenth reply (from Dave) for the link to Phelps Finishing in this thread on Spray Equipment.  Mine came the other day, but it will be a little while before I'm ready to give her a spin.  
Looks like your rabbit joint is a hare off! ;)

Offline Dave Rudy

  • Posts: 771
  • Coloroda Front Range, in the lee of Pikes Peak
Re: Refacing project, part II
« Reply #4 on: November 05, 2007, 09:39 AM »
There's a lot of discussion about the Q4. Mr Ronyak and Mr Work both use them I believe. I'll see if I run across the thread


Jerry Work uses and recommends Accuspray IIRC.

Offline MarkF

  • Posts: 272
  • Concord, NC
Re: Refacing project, part II
« Reply #5 on: November 05, 2007, 01:54 PM »
I'm undertaking a similar project.  Our 11 year old white latex sprayed kitchen cabinet doors and drawer fronts are crazing, cracking and peeling in places.  The paint is OK on the cabinet face frames so I will be stripping and spraying the old doors and drawer fronts.  I plan to use a color matched white pigmented lacquer which I'm told will spray fine in my conversion gun (HF43430...I know it's not in the same league as the other guns being discussed but it works well for the quantity of spraying I do...I'm a wipe on Armor Seal fan ;D) on top of a vinyl sealer base coat.  It will take a few more coats to get the same coverage as latex but dries fast and doesn't require a new gun nozzle/needle.  If it doesn't do well on the first door I'll strip the whole lot and take them in to a cabinet shop and have a pro do it.

Offline Eli

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Re: Refacing project, part II
« Reply #6 on: November 05, 2007, 03:05 PM »
There's a lot of discussion about the Q4. Mr Ronyak and Mr Work both use them I believe. I'll see if I run across the thread


Jerry Work uses and recommends Accuspray IIRC.


My bad.
Do nothing, stay ahead.

Offline HowardH

  • Posts: 1130
Re: Refacing project, part II
« Reply #7 on: November 05, 2007, 06:31 PM »
I saw that ad for the Q4 for $695. Sounds like a great deal.  It would sure make a professional looking finish possible.
Howard H
The Dallas Texas Festool Fanatic!

Mark Twain:  "I didn't attend the funeral, but I sent a letter approving of it." "If you tell the truth you don't have to remember anything."

mft1080, Trion, MFT/3, T15, OF 1400, RO150FEQ, TS55, RTS400, CT22, CT36E, 800, 1080, 1400, 1900 rails, CSX, Vecturo, Qwas dogs, Parf Dogs, Zobo's, Syslite Uni, CMS GE

Offline Jerry Work

  • Posts: 307
    • The Dovetail Joint
Re: Refacing project, part II
« Reply #8 on: November 05, 2007, 09:02 PM »
Hi all,

I used to have a 3 stage Accuspray and for the last several years have used a 4 stage Apollo.  Bleeder vs non-bleeder is a non-issue as you should use a remote control to turn the screaming turbine on and off anyway.  My only recommendation is a four stage over a three stage turbine as air really does matter.  Any of the good brands will work well as long as you opt for their four stage unit.  Three stage units will work and are a bit less expensive, but they require more attention to viscosity and flow rates to get a quality finish with water based materials.  Water based materials will vary quite a bit right out of the can depending on how long they have been on the shelf and the material composition.  The names used are just indicators of the properties the paint chemist was trying to achieve as they all are straight from the test tube.  No lac bugs involved as they are with most conventional finishes.  Lacquer, varnish and shellac are all derived from that little critter or its regurgitations disolved in various things like alcohol, raw or cooked tree saps or other similar materials.

Jerry

There's a lot of discussion about the Q4. Mr Ronyak and Mr Work both use them I believe. I'll see if I run across the thread


Jerry Work uses and recommends Accuspray IIRC.

The Dovetail Joint
Fine furniture designed and hand crafted by Jerry Work
in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building
in historic Kerby, OR. 
26 mi SW of Grants Pass on US 199, The Redwood Highway
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