Rembo
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Location: Russia Member Since: Jan 2012
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« on: January 08, 2012, 01:41 AM » |
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stand of oak and a few photos of the manufacturing process
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
Posts: 5204
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« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2012, 05:44 AM » |
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Nice!
How did you make them curve doors with the raised panel being curved and moulded aswell.
I gotta make some curved doors my self. Been thinking of the best ways to do it. Looks like you did a good job on yours.
Jmb
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Rembo
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Location: Russia Member Since: Jan 2012
Posts: 261
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« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2012, 11:19 AM » |
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Thank you! The fact is that I used a tool other companies too. think it will not display correctly here ...
Here is another version of the doors and some of the manufacturing process
P.S I tried to upload 6 pictures, did not work ..
try two ..
can not upload photos. Forum does not accept
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Chris Hughes
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Location: Kalamazoo, MI, USA Member Since: Mar 2008
Posts: 562
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« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2012, 11:20 AM » |
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Very nice work! I have yet to build a curved door. I like the jig setup for the domino.
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
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« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2012, 11:26 AM » |
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Try resizing the images and then try and upload again.
JMB
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Rembo
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Location: Russia Member Since: Jan 2012
Posts: 261
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« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2012, 02:00 PM » |
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try again
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woodguy7
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Location: wick, scotland Member Since: Apr 2009
Posts: 2401
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« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2012, 02:46 PM » |
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Nice work there. Do you make these products yourself or part of a team ? Is it your own workshop. Do you not use a spindle moulder for any part of this ? I wouldn't dream of making that without one.
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
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Rembo
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Location: Russia Member Since: Jan 2012
Posts: 261
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« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2012, 03:21 PM » |
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what do you see what I do. father paints and sometimes makes the workpiece. We work dvoem.
our workshop.
I made homemade machines for these doors. if you say yes, then I'll show them. but there is no Festool ...
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woodguy7
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Location: wick, scotland Member Since: Apr 2009
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« Reply #8 on: January 08, 2012, 03:51 PM » |
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Pictures of your jigs & setup would be appreciated.
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
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Deansocial
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Location: derbyshire, uk Member Since: Mar 2010
Posts: 1730
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« Reply #9 on: January 08, 2012, 04:05 PM » |
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i would like to see how its done too, i dont care if its done with festool or an axe if your method is good it doesnt matter, too much emphasis seem to be put on having an awsome too, people should try getting some awesome skill to make the most those tools reguardless who makes them.
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Rembo
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Location: Russia Member Since: Jan 2012
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« Reply #10 on: January 08, 2012, 04:10 PM » |
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OK
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Deansocial
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Location: derbyshire, uk Member Since: Mar 2010
Posts: 1730
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« Reply #11 on: January 08, 2012, 04:19 PM » |
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like the look of that setup. what do you do first? the internal curve?
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
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« Reply #12 on: January 08, 2012, 04:24 PM » |
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like the look of that setup. what do you do first? the internal curve?
I would say the internal cus you have a flat for it to sit and rest! Once you turned it round it will sit on the points and still sit firm OR looking at his pictures hes created a former for the internal cut to sit on! If you did the external fist you would have a rocking piece. |
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Rembo
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Location: Russia Member Since: Jan 2012
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« Reply #13 on: January 08, 2012, 04:30 PM » |
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like the look of that setup. what do you do first? the internal curve?
I would say the internal cus you have a flat for it to sit and rest! Once you turned it round it will sit on the points and still sit firm OR looking at his pictures hes created a former for the internal cut to sit on! If you did the external fist you would have a rocking piece. |
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« Last Edit: January 08, 2012, 04:37 PM by Rembo »
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Deansocial
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Location: derbyshire, uk Member Since: Mar 2010
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« Reply #14 on: January 08, 2012, 04:50 PM » |
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what the round former on the floor?
like the method
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mattfc
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Location: Hertfordshire, UK Member Since: Oct 2008
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« Reply #15 on: January 08, 2012, 04:57 PM » |
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Rembo, very nice way, any reason why you it this way rather than vacuum pressing thin sheets together? This looks great but a lot of work?
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
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« Reply #16 on: January 08, 2012, 05:11 PM » |
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Well do me your getting it exactly how you want it more stable.
Vacuum forming/Bending their is a slight spring back innit?
Also Im not sure but I think he will use the curving jig to do the raised paneling aswell.
I dont know I would like to know actually?!?! Rembo how do you do the raised paneling on the curved panels once you curved them.
JMB
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waynelang2001
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Location: south africa Member Since: Feb 2010
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« Reply #17 on: January 08, 2012, 05:32 PM » |
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what the round former on the floor?
like the method
I used to make doors like this when i was working for a company, I might be mistaken but i would say the the round black form is for laminating the rails for the curved doors. |
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mattfc
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Location: Hertfordshire, UK Member Since: Oct 2008
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« Reply #18 on: January 08, 2012, 05:36 PM » |
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Well do me your getting it exactly how you want it more stable.
Vacuum forming/Bending their is a slight spring back innit?
Also Im not sure but I think he will use the curving jig to do the raised paneling aswell.
I dont know I would like to know actually?!?! Rembo how do you do the raised paneling on the curved panels once you curved them.
JMB
Re the spring back, from what I have read its is very dependant on the type of glue you use, and the thickness of the sheets you laminate, thicker they are obviously the more chance of spring back. Like you said if milled then not a problem. Re the panel raising when I have seen this before, the panel is rotated through a U shaped jig to match the panel curve |
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
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« Reply #19 on: January 08, 2012, 06:25 PM » |
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Well do me your getting it exactly how you want it more stable.
Vacuum forming/Bending their is a slight spring back innit?
Also Im not sure but I think he will use the curving jig to do the raised paneling aswell.
I dont know I would like to know actually?!?! Rembo how do you do the raised paneling on the curved panels once you curved them.
JMB
Re the spring back, from what I have read its is very dependant on the type of glue you use, and the thickness of the sheets you laminate, thicker they are obviously the more chance of spring back. Like you said if milled then not a problem. Re the panel raising when I have seen this before, the panel is rotated through a U shaped jig to match the panel curve Yes looking at his picture at the jig which does the external curve he has a u shaped jig which is curved I assume that it placed on top once its milled and the router can fallow the u shape on his custom made jig. I like his method never thought of doing it like that. JMB |
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RL
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Location: Canada Member Since: Feb 2010
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« Reply #20 on: January 08, 2012, 10:19 PM » |
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There should not be any springback if you use bending plywood over a form. I saw a bombe door made this way recently and it was spot on, so springback at all, even with the veneers glued on.
But I think Rembo coopered his doors, so springback is not going to happen here either, especially if he oriented his annual growth rings correctly. (It seems as if he laminated his aprons though.)
I made my curved doors a third way, which is with curved ribs done with a router template under a 1/8" plywood skin, with a veneer vacuum pressed on top. Also no springback.
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I like green.
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CDM
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Location: Chicago, IL, USA Member Since: Dec 2010
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« Reply #21 on: January 09, 2012, 02:00 AM » |
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In frame-and-panel construction with a flat panel, the largest wood movement is back and forth within the slots in the frame. This does not create pressure against the lips of the slots, and wood movement against the lips is controlled by having thin panel edges and narrow slots.
Here, since the panels are curved, expansion and contraction of the panels creates pressure against the lips of the stiles (and also the rails). The movement is not just in and out within the slots.
Do the lips and panel edges hold up well through seasonal expansion and contraction?
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Rembo
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Location: Russia Member Since: Jan 2012
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« Reply #22 on: January 09, 2012, 02:02 AM » |
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But other versions of devices
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RL
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Location: Canada Member Since: Feb 2010
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« Reply #23 on: January 09, 2012, 06:19 AM » |
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In frame-and-panel construction with a flat panel, the largest wood movement is back and forth within the slots in the frame. This does not create pressure against the lips of the slots, and wood movement against the lips is controlled by having thin panel edges and narrow slots.
Here, since the panels are curved, expansion and contraction of the panels creates pressure against the lips of the stiles (and also the rails). The movement is not just in and out within the slots.
Do the lips and panel edges hold up well through seasonal expansion and contraction?
Are you sure these are frame and panel? They seem to me to have routed details on a solid door to simulate frame and panel. |
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I like green.
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GhostFist
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Location: Canada Member Since: Oct 2010
Posts: 1072
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« Reply #25 on: January 09, 2012, 06:43 AM » |
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Rembo, you're a scientist. So glad you decided to start posting here. Also interested in russian woodworking as a whole, it's not something we get to read about too much over here, people seem obsessed with American craftsman stuff, nothing wrong with it but we have an entire planet's history and experience in woodworking and before I'm dead I'd like to learn as much as possible.
Hats off to you sir, you've got us all thinking....which is great!
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RL
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Location: Canada Member Since: Feb 2010
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« Reply #26 on: January 09, 2012, 06:50 AM » |
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Yes, now I see that from the photo. I was looking at one of the pictures which had coopered panels after a picture of the doors. I had assumed this was a before and after set of pictures. Maybe it was to help form the curves? |
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I like green.
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mattfc
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Location: Hertfordshire, UK Member Since: Oct 2008
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« Reply #27 on: January 09, 2012, 07:57 AM » |
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Yes, now I see that from the photo. I was looking at one of the pictures which had coopered panels after a picture of the doors. I had assumed this was a before and after set of pictures. Maybe it was to help form the curves?
Yes.. I think the rail is made of laminates.. if you look on the bottom right of this pic you can see the balck disk with holes in it, I pressume those are for putting clamps in to hold the rail to the former http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/round-side-table/?action=dlattach;attach=46070;image |
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Rembo
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Location: Russia Member Since: Jan 2012
Posts: 261
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« Reply #28 on: January 09, 2012, 01:47 PM » |
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Rembo, you're a scientist. So glad you decided to start posting here. Also interested in russian woodworking as a whole, it's not something we get to read about too much over here, people seem obsessed with American craftsman stuff, nothing wrong with it but we have an entire planet's history and experience in woodworking and before I'm dead I'd like to learn as much as possible.
Hats off to you sir, you've got us all thinking....which is great!
Thank you! but we die early, there is still the case!)) I can not until all tvetit, oznakamlivayus how it's done. the only thing I can comment on that door that I'm showing here are composed of separate piping and panels. what I know and can try to show. |
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Rembo
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Location: Russia Member Since: Jan 2012
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« Reply #29 on: January 09, 2012, 02:06 PM » |
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here is one of the options when logging is not practical bend
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