Author Topic: Small cabinet  (Read 992 times)

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Offline mrFinpgh

  • Posts: 265
Small cabinet
« on: October 08, 2018, 12:35 AM »
I just finished putting together this little cabinet that's going to be recessed into a 12" deep wall.  It's about 2' wide and 30" tall. 

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The case materials are mostly leftovers from building my kitchen. If you look behind a couple of the photos, you can see some of the wall of cabinets that make up one side of the room.  Once i finish the pantry, maybe I'll finally take photos of the kitchen itself. For now, it's holding a lot of things that should be in the pantry.

Construction is pocket screws + hide glue for the hardwood edges, dadoes for the 2 shelves. Shelves are edged with some 1/4" walnut I had trimmed off my countertop last year.

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The shelves were fun, as it was my first time using the of1010 with the edge trimming attachments.  For solid edging, I think this was the easiest approach I've tried.  I could get it to a point where it was easy to bring it flush with a card scraper + some 150g paper.

The sliding doors are 1/2" MDF with a walnut veneer that I applied using a veneer hammer and hot hide glue.  The track is just some grooves routed into the top and bottom of the case and I rabbeted the back of the doors so they can be lifted in and then ride in the groove.  I left about 2mm of room below the bottom rabbet so that it is riding on the shoulder instead of the bottom of the groove.  I think that's going to do better in terms of avoiding gunk in the groove.

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The finish is 4 coats of EM6000 satin waterborne lacquer..  I did do some pore filling on the case parts using crystalac tinted with a little dye, mainly to try and even out the tone of the wood - some of that plywood has been exposed to sun for the last half year, but some had not.   The doors didn't need any pore filling, as I had sized the veneer with a coat of thinned hide glue prior to hammer veneering them. I was shocked how well that worked out. I did put a thinned coat of sealcoat over them before spraying them.

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I did screw up a bit with the case assembly - I think my dadoes may have been about 1mm too deep , and I glued the shelves into them using some old brown glue.  Because I was paranoid about them not fully seating, I clamped them.  As a result, there is a very slight bow to the case sides. This leads to a small (1/16+) gap at the corners when the doors are fully closed. 

I still need to decide what to do about pulls - very open to ideas/suggestions.

Thanks for looking!

Adam
« Last Edit: October 08, 2018, 12:38 AM by mrFinpgh »

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Offline gunnyr

  • Posts: 132
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Re: Small cabinet
« Reply #1 on: October 08, 2018, 08:38 AM »
Well done sir!
Semper Fi,
Jeff

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Offline SilviaS7

  • Posts: 25
Re: Small cabinet
« Reply #2 on: October 08, 2018, 07:18 PM »
It looks very nice, great job!

Offline jobsworth

  • Posts: 5242
  • Does Anyone Know What Time It Is?
Re: Small cabinet
« Reply #3 on: October 09, 2018, 02:20 AM »
nice work, well done

Offline mrFinpgh

  • Posts: 265
Re: Small cabinet
« Reply #4 on: October 13, 2018, 12:12 AM »
Thanks, guys.

I'm still pondering how to do the pulls for the doors.  I have a bunch of small pieces of exotics that I've been holding onto since the mid 2000s - thinking that could be interesting.  But then I also think something simple like a small black finger pull would work well too.

Or I could just drill out a hole w/ a forstner bit and paint the MDF substrate black.   :)

Offline ChuckM

  • Posts: 619
Re: Small cabinet
« Reply #5 on: October 13, 2018, 01:27 PM »
If I were to install pulls, I would use take a mortise approach .

The pulls are your design opportunities. I would, for example, make them out of contrasting woods etc.

The image shows a recessed handle I made for a lid.