Author Topic: Sofa Table  (Read 2178 times)

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Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 126
    • In The Woodshop
Sofa Table
« on: May 29, 2017, 10:04 AM »
After a few final tweaks, the design has been settled, and the build begins. This is the front elevation, with the body in Hard Maple ...



The top ...



... will be West Australian Rose Sheoak (think Lacewood).

This comes from my local urban salvage supplier, Derek Doak "The Timberbloke". Here you can see the 2" thick slab was saved from a fire ...



Re-sawn and book matched, the 1250mm top will be elegant and simple, and still hopefully stunning ..



I decided to start the build with the aprons. The legs will follow next. They are complex in themselves, having multiple angles - more on that in a later post. However, the aprons are the key element as they are both bowed and receive a curve on the underside. They also need to support a drawer from one side.

Here is a plan ..



I have already made up all the templates needed for the table top, the legs, the bow of the apron, and the curve on the underside of the apron.



I decided that the core of the apron would be pine, which will be wrapped in Hard Maple. The alternate choices were either to build laminations of hard maple, or create all from solid maple. The end design seemed to me to be the easiest to build to ensure the support for an internal drawer along the length of the table, as well as economical for the maple, which is in limited supply in Australia in the size needed.

The bow front is marked out and bandsawed close to the line, and then cleaned up with a spokeshave ...



Save the waste, replace the bow on it to secure for the next step ..



.. and now it is ready to plough out a 5/16" groove for the drawer blades ...



I am planing into the grain, so take fine shavings until the blade is below the surface, and then crank it up ...



These are the drawer blades. I later replaced them with wider pieces since I had forgotten to take into account the 5mm thick internal veneer (the fence for the drawer).



The curve for the underside of the apron is marked and the waste removed ...



The front of the apron will have a 5mm Hard Maple veneer. Here it is being finished ...



This is sawn slightly oversize, and then glued to the apron blank. Can't have too many clamps ...



This was  left overnight for the liquid hide glue to dry, and then trimmed down with a plane and a spokeshave ...



This will give a better idea of the curve to the underside. It is not intended to be a dramatic curve - simply to soften the lines.



Here are the replacement drawer blades. They will not be glued until the the aprons are attached to the legs as they will get in the way of sawing tenons.



Here is a view of the bow. Also note that the "fence" for the drawer has been glued in ...



Another view of the bow, as it is likely to appear when assembled ..



This is roughly how the 1/2" tenons will be situated (just a quick pencilling in to provide a look).



And at that point I will end. Next stage is shaping the legs.

Any comments and suggestions are welcomed.

Regards from Perth

Derek
« Last Edit: May 29, 2017, 11:25 AM by derekcohen »

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Offline Dogberryjr

  • Posts: 85
Re: Sofa Table
« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2017, 11:31 AM »
Very nice. I look forward to seeing more.

Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 126
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Sofa Table - Part II
« Reply #2 on: June 05, 2017, 12:13 PM »
In part I, work had begun on the boat-shaped sofa table ...



We left off last time with the bow aprons completed ...



Before I began the legs, which I had planned for this weekend past, I had another look at the aprons and decided that they could be slimmed down, which would enable the legs to be slimmed as well. This involved removing a 10mm strip from the centre on the table saw, and glueing the two sections up again. We could now begin on the legs.

The blanks for the legs were 75 x 40mm (3" x 1 1/2") Hard Maple. Using a template, sections with the straightest grain could be marked out ...



.. and then sawn out on the bandsaw ...



It was easier to plane the concave side and spokeshave the convex side ...



Any irregularities were smoothed with a scraper ...



Below are the completed basic legs and slimmed down aprons (with drawer blades removed) ..



The legs would be joined to the apron with mortice and tenons. This had its challenges as the apron, being bowed, has only one flat side. In retrospect, it would have been easier to have extended the maple veneer on the inside all the way, and not stop it short where the tenons would be formed. As a result, it was not possible to mark the tenons with a gauge. Fortunately, the ends were square and became the reference side ...



The mortice and tenon is 1/2" wide. The 1/3 Rule is used, and the mortice extends 2/3 in the leg.

The shoulders are knifed, undercut, and then sawn ...



The cheeks are sawn close to the line, but not at close as I usually do. I am leaving a little extra waste for fine tuning ...





My strategy is to level the side of the cheeks parallel to the flat side of the apron using a router plane (David Charlesworth's technique from about 20 years ago) ..



The other side has to be chiseled as the bowed apron does not permit use of the router plane.



Accuracy of the tenon is checked with a template ...



There is a another reason for the absolute precision here - the inside of the legs must align precisely with the inside face of the apron as a drawer will be fitted from the side.

In the photo below, the position for the mortice is transferred from the tenon. At the rear is a straight edge ensuring all lines up ...



Once done, the mortices were made. After chopping a couple in the hard maple, I thought "this is for the birds", and used a router on the remainder. Half inch wide and 1 1/4" deep in hard maple is not fun!



Before assembling anything, there is some shaping to be done on the legs.

The legs not only curve in elevation, but the front curves in parallel with the apron and the table top ..



The insides of the legs will be tapered, and this will be completed after the outer curve is shaped.

The curve is simply planed to the lines, and then sanded to removed any irregularities ...



Below you can see two sets of apron/legs. The right hand is shaped, while the left side remains to be done. The apron is set back by 2mm to create a shadow line ...



This is the final photo for this segment. The taper has yet to be done. The mortice and tenon will be drawbored for a tight finish. The inside faces have been cleaned up (too many photos already, so there are lots of small details I have chosen to omit).



This will now give you a better idea of what I am trying to achieve.

Comments and discussion welcomed.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline bobberner

  • Festool Dealer
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  • Posts: 43
Re: Sofa Table
« Reply #3 on: June 10, 2017, 12:25 PM »
Beautiful piece!!! And such a great post about the build. I gotta start documenting the process of things that I build. I'm lucky that I get a photo of the finished product up online!!

Great stuff here! Thanks for sharing.
As addictive as crack but more expensive.

Oohhhhhhhhhh, Festool.........

MFT/3, TS 75, RO 150, OF 1400, CT Midi.

Offline neilc

  • Posts: 2080
Re: Sofa Table
« Reply #4 on: June 10, 2017, 05:38 PM »
Great work, Derek!  Tons of detail.  Thanks for the photos.

neil

Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 126
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Sofa Table
« Reply #5 on: June 11, 2017, 12:22 PM »
This is where we finished last time - the fitting of legs to the apron ...



I had a day in the workshop, and the following is a summary of the work completed today.

The aim was to make and fit the end rails for the table. I decided to use sliding dovetails rather than mortice-and-tenons: There was little room to add a tenon as much of the space in the legs was taken up with large tenons from the aprons (although working with the 1/3 Rule). A sliding dovetail would provide a compact joint.

A few hours were first spent aligning the aprons and legs. The legs had been cut from the centre of a board, to obtain the best grain arrangement. As a result, there were no registration sides. A degree here-or-there difference in the legs threw off their alignment. Tweaking them into parallel took some time.

The ends of the table are different. On one side is a solid stretcher. At the other end are top- and lower rails for a drawer. These are below along with the drawer face, which will resemble a stretcher once completed (it is to be a hidden drawer, disguised as a stretcher) ...



The rails went in this end ...



All is loosely fitted for these photos. Drawbore pegs lock the legs to the apron. The lower rail is actually locked by the apron ...



There is nothing special about the sliding dovetail on the lower rails. They are short and, therefore, were left parallel ..



The top rail is simply dovetailed in ...



The top rail is 10mm high and the lower rail is 20mm high. This leaves 39mm for a drawer. No, it is not going to be high! Still, it is part of the fun, and no doubt will be a interesting talking point and find a use.

At the other end of the table is a solid stretcher. If you look at the left side leg, you will notice that the top of the mortice has broken out. This was caused by attempts to unstick a peg - which I thought was tapped in lightly, but broke off when I tried to twist it out (darn!). After this, I kept it all loose.



This stretcher has a tapered sliding dovetail at each side ...







All of the sockets were marked, sawn and chiselled.

The dovetails were planed with a modified Stanley #79 side rabbet plane. The modification involved an angled fence ...







Finally, this is where I am up to with the sofa table. The front legs need to be rounded, and all the legs are yet to be tapered on the insides. There is clean up to do, a drawer to build, and the tabletop to resaw and shape.



Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline charley1968

  • Posts: 482
Re: Sofa Table
« Reply #6 on: June 11, 2017, 01:24 PM »
Awesome, Derek. Do you decide on the joinery as you go or do you have a detailed ,drawn plan?looking forward to the finished table.
Just for today..

Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 126
    • In The Woodshop
Re: Sofa Table
« Reply #7 on: June 11, 2017, 08:00 PM »
Hi Charley

I design first, then work out how to build the piece. Sometimes that means that the joinery is obvious, and sometimes not. If a better method occurs along the way, I will make the changes. I do try and draw up plans, but they are not sacred.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline charley1968

  • Posts: 482
Re: Sofa Table
« Reply #8 on: June 12, 2017, 01:17 PM »
Ta!
Just for today..

Offline derekcohen

  • Posts: 126
    • In The Woodshop
The bevel lies in the details: Sofa Table IV
« Reply #9 on: June 19, 2017, 10:26 AM »
Earlier posts on the Sofa Table build may be found here:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/SofaTableAprons.html
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/SofaTable-Legs.html
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/SofaTableIIIEndRails.html

We are at the stage where the legs are to be completed and the base will be glued up.

Now Bill will nag me to death if I do not provide more detail this time around, so blame him for the extra photos. :)

The first item on the agenda was to add a curve to the front of the legs that paralleled the table top bow, and continued that from the apron. Two legs had been completed near the beginning of the build. This was premature as I lost a parallel side when the legs were required to be planed on the bench or held in a vise. As a result, the other two legs were left until this stage.

Here is an unshaped leg (on the left) and a shaped leg (on the right) ..



The curve was drawn in using a template of the top ...





The curve was continued down the leg. In all, it removed 5mm.



The waste was removed with a handplane.

Once the curves were added, the legs needed to be tapered on the inside. The aim here was to create the illusion that the legs were slightly splayed. They are, in fact, 90 degrees on the outside, since the added curve is constant down the legs.

The width of the leg at this stage is 40mm. It will remain this width down to 5mm below the apron, and then taper to 25mm at the foot, thus ...



Here the bevel is drawn in and the line may be seen where it ends below the apron ...



As with other waste removal, I found it easier to use shorter planes, first a jack and then a #3 than a long plane, such as a jointer ....



Once this was completed, the legs were essentially shaped, and the next task was to, firstly, smooth everything perfectly ...



... and, secondly, to freehand a 2mm bevel to all edges (all sides of the legs and the lower edge of the apron) ...



The reason for the 2mm bevel was that the shadow line juncture of the apron and legs is 2mm. The bevel on the legs will blend into the sides of the apron, thus ...



All parts were dissembled and finished in 2 coats of Ubeaut White Shellac. This is an unwaxed concentrated shellac (diluted 50:50 in denatured alcohol/methylated spirits) which adds the very lightest touch of amber to the pale Hard Maple. It brings out detail and seals the wood. Then 3 coats of General Finishes Satin water-based poly were wiped on-and-off. The GF provides a finish that will retain the pale colour of the wood, and avoid the yellowing that occurs with oil-based finishes. This is the process I used when finishing the Hard Maple doors and drawers in the recent kitchen built, and the sofa table is intended to be an associated piece.

The finishing process for the kitchen is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Kitchen%20Rebuild.html

Before glueing up, it was necessary to add slots for buttons, to later fasten the top to the apron. The issue was this: the buttons needed to be less than 10mm in height, which was the thickness of the dovetailed rail for the drawer (the rail alongside a piece of scrap) ...





... otherwise the long drawer that was to run from the side of the table would catch on the buttons.

I decided to use my new Domino DF500 to cut 5mm slots that were placed 4mm below the surface, and then use 5mm dominos as buttons ...





All done! Finally, to the glue up, and ...

Here is a side view of the legs, showing the taper (and the continuous bow) ..



This is the inside of the table, with the drawer blades ...



And, lastly, a shot of the front elevation at this stage ...



Next, building the drawer.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Offline tony_sheehan

  • Posts: 96
Re: Sofa Table
« Reply #10 on: June 19, 2017, 05:09 PM »
Absolutely fantastic, many thanks Derek.
I think this level of subtlety takes many years to achieve, or requires exceptional vision on the part of the craftsman: these gentle curves and forms are so easy to overstate

Offline bobberner

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  • Posts: 43
Re: Sofa Table
« Reply #11 on: Yesterday at 08:31 AM »
Great idea on using the dominos for buttons to attach the top!! I will have to use that on my next table.
As addictive as crack but more expensive.

Oohhhhhhhhhh, Festool.........

MFT/3, TS 75, RO 150, OF 1400, CT Midi.