Woodworking & Power Tools Forum - Festool Owners Group > GENERAL DISCUSSIONS > Member Projects > Closet jobs
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Author Topic: Closet jobs  (Read 2574 times)
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tjbier

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Location: Grand Rapids, MI, USA
Member Since: Jun 2010
Posts: 256
« on: January 08, 2011, 05:27 PM »
I really enjoy doing these custom closets, every one is different and has its own challenges.
This one is fairly simple, open shelves followed by a 6 drawer dresser. Then a double set of closet rods @40" and 80", with a storage shelf around the top of the whole closet. I normally keep everything 18"-20" off the floor. It's obviously not done, gotta put the drawer fronts on on Monday.
I'm really bad at taking pics during the project.  Embarassed But I will get more once I'm done.



I had to make a 0 clearance throat plate for the table saw for the dadoes on the drawer sides, so I made this jig up. I used 1/2" ply for the plate and didn't have time to make it sit flush with the TS top, so the fence wouldn't go over the plate, that's the reason for the stacks of 3/4" ply. Not ideal, I know, but it worked Smile




Here's the CSMS stand that I prefer to use also, I like to keep sandpaper, block plane, coping saw, ect all right next to the saw. Eventually I will drill the  20mm holes in the top for sanding, and clamping material to. It amounts to 1 sheet of plywood 15" base doubled up and glued and nailed. Then do the math on how tall the "blocks" need to be, put the top on, throw some screws in and go to work. Laughing
« Last Edit: January 08, 2011, 05:30 PM by tjbier » Logged
Tom- ps, I read these.
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woodguy7

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Location: wick, scotland
Member Since: Apr 2009
Posts: 2406
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2011, 05:50 PM »
Looking good so far.  Didnt Norm make a stand similar to that once with drawers & an extending fence ect ?

Woodguy
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
lumbajac

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Location: U.P. of Michigan
Member Since: Mar 2010
Posts: 214
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2011, 06:36 PM »
Very nice work tj.

How long is your entire miter saw stand setup?  Just got a Kapex and this looks like a great all around design... like the idea of adding 20mm holes as well for clamping, etc.  To make a bit more portable, for hauling upstairs for example, I have to wonder if you could cut the whole unit in half and hinge the to halves to fold upon one another - maybe some kind of locking mechanism to align it all up for when in use?  Looks great the way it is, just thinking ahead a bit.

As another member mentioned, this is similar to a design Gary Katz has an article out there about.  Here's another homemade stand posted that is much like the Sawhelper that I really like as well - http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/06/18/wooden-miter-saw-stand/  

Decision time for me as to which to build.

Edit - I see upon rereading your post that the stand consists of 1 sheet of plywood doubled up - so 8' long for your miter stand setup.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2011, 06:38 PM by lumbajac » Logged
Corey - U.P. of Michigan
tjbier

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Location: Grand Rapids, MI, USA
Member Since: Jun 2010
Posts: 256
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2011, 07:28 PM »
Yup, its only 8' long. And 38" either side of the saw, and the top is around 12", 3" behind the fence and 9" in front.  
I like it so much more than the stand that you bolt the saw to,
I don't like having the void between the saw ans the extention wings....
The 20mm hole idea I think would be nice, as I was coping base I thought of that.
I'd rather have the MFT and use it as the push out table for the table saw too,
But not quite yet..... gotta have something to look forward to Wink
*dont know about the Norm made stand, older carpenter I worked with used this and I stole the idea Cool
« Last Edit: January 08, 2011, 07:31 PM by tjbier » Logged
Tom- ps, I read these.
lumbajac

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Location: U.P. of Michigan
Member Since: Mar 2010
Posts: 214
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2011, 07:43 PM »
How about the sawhorses - they look light but very sturdy.  What brand & where from?
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Corey - U.P. of Michigan
tjbier

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Location: Grand Rapids, MI, USA
Member Since: Jun 2010
Posts: 256
« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2011, 08:02 PM »
Quote from: lumbajac on January 08, 2011, 07:43 PM
How about the sawhorses - they look light but very sturdy.  What brand & where from?
They are cheap junk ones from the green box store, they were $10 I think.  I really like the ones that are behind the tablesaw, they are adjustable but $50... the ones that the makita are on are not stable and can barley
 hold up the saw and saw table Tongue Out
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Tom- ps, I read these.
honeydokreg

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Location: Woodstock GA
Member Since: Feb 2007
Posts: 1510



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« Reply #6 on: January 09, 2011, 01:31 PM »
tom,

going be a nice closet when done  is it going be painted or stained?

make sure you take finish photos.

I dont do that many closets since the closet companies have all the goodies made up but they are not cheep..  i do several from time to time basic similiar to yours and they are fun.  people have to much stuff to hang  !  and set on shelves.
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pay attention to the details.... they make the difference... festool does
www.kregscustomcarpentry.com
youtube channel:  builtinsbykreg
tjbier

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Location: Grand Rapids, MI, USA
Member Since: Jun 2010
Posts: 256
« Reply #7 on: January 16, 2011, 09:26 PM »
Kreg, I believe the homeowners are finishing it. So, it will either be cleared/waxed/ or not touched. lol
I haven't priced a Closet concept in a long time, but their prices were ridiculous.
I finished up.









This is a linen built-in, in the bathroom. Built so that if in the future doors can be added.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2011, 09:29 PM by tjbier » Logged
Tom- ps, I read these.
BobKovacs

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Location: UNITED STATES (US)
Member Since: Nov 2007
Posts: 296
« Reply #8 on: January 16, 2011, 09:36 PM »
Tom- how is that main unit supported?  I see it's sitting a foot or so off the floor- I'm assuming it's on a French cleat or something?
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tjbier

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Location: Grand Rapids, MI, USA
Member Since: Jun 2010
Posts: 256
« Reply #9 on: January 16, 2011, 09:49 PM »
Bob, there is a 2" cleat under the whole unit, a cleat underneath the top plywood piece of the "dresser".
Also, the plywood sides are nailed to all the cleats of the shelving to the left of the drawers.
and there are cleats that the drawer guides rest on that run from side to side.
I put a few screws in the cleats for good measure too.
It's 18" off the floor to the top of the bottom shelf. 
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Tom- ps, I read these.
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