PaulMarcel
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Location: Chandler AZ USA Member Since: Mar 2008
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« on: September 27, 2011, 12:17 PM » |
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I put up a video review of the SCG-10 last night on my blog. It also goes over the accessory, how to calibrate it (a different way than the one described in the manual), and a couple demo 90º joints mostly to discuss how the key to the guide isn't so much that it self-centered, but that it gives you equidistant references. Extract from the blog article: ...If you've followed my podcast at all, you've seen me use some third-party narrow-stock spacers that are fitted to the front of the pin-style Domino. The pin model is harder to find these days so the fast pencil-free registration offered by the spacers hasn't been available for everybody. The SCG-10 solves that problem. In this video, I'll show you the product, how it fits to the Festool Domino body, and how to calibrate it easily. I then do a series of demonstrations to show forming a 90º joint (like a rail/stile joint) using the SCG. One demonstration shows using the SCG for its centering function and the other emphasizes the equidistant offset provided by the SCG and how you can use that to offset mortises. The calibration procedure shown in this video isn't the same as the one outlined in the manual. The manual's procedure assumes the center line on the bottom of the Domino base is reasonably accurate. For my Domino, it is considerably off, but I calibrated my cursor hairs exceptionally well. The basis of my calibration is to use the cursor hairs to get it done in one try. Here's the video:
[ Edited to put the video inline in the post - Shane ]
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« Last Edit: September 27, 2011, 12:34 PM by Shane Holland »
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Visit my blog for Festool adventures Shirt size: L  Twitter: @HalfInchShy
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Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.
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Peter Halle
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Location: Powhatan, Virginia USA Member Since: Jul 2007
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« Reply #1 on: September 27, 2011, 02:39 PM » |
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Paul,
Great Video! I think that I will have to put one of these on my wish list.
Peter
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day. The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy. They also were in the minority. Their complaint: They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in. I guess the truth hurts.
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Ken Nagrod
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« Reply #2 on: September 27, 2011, 03:13 PM » |
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PM,
Great video of Floyd and again, great job on the tool Rick!
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Limey556
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Location: Antioch IL USA Member Since: Sep 2010
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« Reply #3 on: September 27, 2011, 04:35 PM » |
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Just recived my SG10 Last night I was a little frustrated trying to get it perfectly set but after this great post it should be duck soup This is a great tool Rick !!!!! Paul thanks do much for this very informative and detailed post looking forward to seeing your post on calibrating the sightglass this took me ages when I first got the Domino Terry 
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Rick Christopherson
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« Reply #4 on: September 27, 2011, 05:24 PM » |
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Just recived my SG10 Last night I was a little frustrated trying to get it perfectly set but after this great post it should be duck soup This is a great tool Rick !!!!! Paul thanks do much for this very informative and detailed post looking forward to seeing your post on calibrating the sightglass this took me ages when I first got the Domino Terry  Terry, For the typical user, just visually sighting down the seam between the stops will be very accurate. For higher accuracy, you could also try the razor blade method that Jesse Cloud suggested a couple of days ago. I think it will be an easier method for most people, and is the method I would use if the lines on my Domino were not already aligned. 
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Rick Christopherson
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« Reply #5 on: September 27, 2011, 06:02 PM » |
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By the way, I never realized this until I watched Paul-Marcel's great video, but the name "Self Centering" refers to the stops always being centered about the Domino cutter position. I never realized that this might be suggesting that the tenon should be centered in the workpiece. One of the most common email questions I get from new owners of the Domino joiner is, "How do I perfectly center the tenon in the workpiece?" The simple answer to that is, you don't! As Paul-Marcel so wonderfully pointed out, when you do deliberately try to center the tenon, you can mistakenly flip the workpiece over from its original intended position. It is far more important that you always register the tenon position from the same side (or surface) for both mating tenons. Paul-Marcel's example of this is wonderful, and he was able to explain in a couple seconds with video what I have been trying to explain with hundreds of words over the years.  My guides can be used with both stops flipped down to give perfect centering, but that was never their intention. The intention was always to act as right and left stops for registration on the same side of mating workpieces.
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #6 on: September 27, 2011, 06:29 PM » |
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nice vid Paul
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RonWen
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« Reply #7 on: September 27, 2011, 09:56 PM » |
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By the way, I never realized this until I watched Paul-Marcel's great video, but the name "Self Centering" refers to the stops always being centered about the Domino cutter position. I never realized that this might be suggesting that the tenon should be centered in the workpiece. One of the most common email questions I get from new owners of the Domino joiner is, "How do I perfectly center the tenon in the workpiece?" The simple answer to that is, you don't! As Paul-Marcel so wonderfully pointed out, when you do deliberately try to center the tenon, you can mistakenly flip the workpiece over from its original intended position. It is far more important that you always register the tenon position from the same side (or surface) for both mating tenons. Paul-Marcel's example of this is wonderful, and he was able to explain in a couple seconds with video what I have been trying to explain with hundreds of words over the years. My guides can be used with both stops flipped down to give perfect centering, but that was never their intention. The intention was always to act as right and left stops for registration on the same side of mating workpieces.Perhaps a "Name that Tool" contest is in order? As you say (and Paul nicely demonstrated) centering mortises can lead to mistakes in assembly. When I got mine I decided to make some simple gauge blocks to offset the stops known distance(s) for single or multiple mortises. The beauty of this new version is that the left & right stops are set instantly at the same time. It will be much faster than setting/using the original Multi Guide Stop. An excellent tool Rick and an excellent review Paul!
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« Last Edit: September 28, 2011, 08:43 AM by RonWen »
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neilc
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« Reply #8 on: September 27, 2011, 11:00 PM » |
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The Rick and Paul-Martel show is awesome.
Great job Rick on the tool. Great setup / demo Paul-Martel.
I think you should go on the road!
neil
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richk
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« Reply #9 on: September 27, 2011, 11:16 PM » |
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Rick/Jesse/Paul: Doesn't the plastic cursor have to be aligned in the center before the razor blade can be used to align the SCG?
Or, where in the sequence of aligning the SCG should the razor blade be used?
Rich
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Jesse Cloud
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« Reply #10 on: September 27, 2011, 11:35 PM » |
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Rick/Jesse/Paul: Doesn't the plastic cursor have to be aligned in the center before the razor blade can be used to align the SCG?
Or, where in the sequence of aligning the SCG should the razor blade be used?
Rich
Rich, Absolutely! And the whole rationale is that sometimes the Domino does not cut centered on the scribed line on the base. While you can't recalibrate the scribed line, you can move the plastic cursor around. So, if your Domi cuts centered to the scribed line, the razor blade should be on the scribed line. And as Rick pointed out, if your not a half-blind old fart like me, you probably can do this by eye and don't need the razor blade at all.  As to sequencing, I would do a quick check to see if your Domi centers on the scribed line. If so, follow the process in Rick's manual. If you need the razor as a visual aid, use it on the scribed line. If the scribed line doesn't show the center of the cut, use the procedure in Rick's Domino manual to adjust the plastic cursor, then calibrate against the plastic cursor, using the razor blade if desired.
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Jesse Cloud
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Location: Placitas, NM Member Since: Jan 2007
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Festooling at the end of a dirt road in New Mexico
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« Reply #11 on: September 27, 2011, 11:40 PM » |
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Congrats P-M on another great video. I would buy a ticket to see Rick and Paul Marcel demoing Floyd, especially on exotic wafer board. 
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PaulMarcel
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Location: Chandler AZ USA Member Since: Mar 2008
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« Reply #12 on: September 28, 2011, 02:08 AM » |
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ha ha, the Floyd thing kinda fell out my mouth, but it worked  Wonder how long before Rick gets an email asking for instructions to order a 'Floyd'. I like your adjustment procedure, Jesse. For whatever reason, I didn't picture it well when I first read your reply, but then Rick's picture made it very clear. I can't sight that through the crease between the stops. For me, the block was easier especially with the tape trick; it is really easy to get it dead center of the scale, although as mentioned before, if that scale is off, you may as well use Floyd as a keyhook instead (or more seriously do the calibration the divide-n-conquer method). Regardless of how you get it calibrated, once there, I think it will be very nice to use. I'm fast with the narrow stock spacers, which sound exactly like Ron's offset blocks; with the SCG, it should be faster. I shouldn't have mentioned the keys cuz now I'm thinking of where to hang it between uses... 
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Visit my blog for Festool adventures Shirt size: L  Twitter: @HalfInchShy
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RonWen
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« Reply #13 on: September 28, 2011, 08:56 AM » |
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ha ha, the Floyd thing kinda fell out my mouth, but it worked  Wonder how long before Rick gets an email asking for instructions to order a 'Floyd'. I like your adjustment procedure, Jesse. For whatever reason, I didn't picture it well when I first read your reply, but then Rick's picture made it very clear. I can't sight that through the crease between the stops. For me, the block was easier especially with the tape trick; it is really easy to get it dead center of the scale, although as mentioned before, if that scale is off, you may as well use Floyd as a keyhook instead (or more seriously do the calibration the divide-n-conquer method). Regardless of how you get it calibrated, once there, I think it will be very nice to use. I'm fast with the narrow stock spacers, which sound exactly like Ron's offset blocks; with the SCG, it should be faster.I shouldn't have mentioned the keys cuz now I'm thinking of where to hang it between uses...  If we ever get our Woodpecker's setup blocks delivered  they should be perfect for this purpose.
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Sal LiVecchi
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« Reply #14 on: September 28, 2011, 05:08 PM » |
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Paul Great Video, pushed me over the edge and I placed an order for one.... I really like you method use use for the rails and stiles. Will be trying your method on the 10' Five Piece China Cabinet I am presently in the process of making for a customer.
Thanks Sal
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Life is too short and the road is too long to drive anything less than a Festool
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Limey556
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Location: Antioch IL USA Member Since: Sep 2010
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« Reply #15 on: October 02, 2011, 04:43 PM » |
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Rick / Paul Thanks for all the great advice and the video. I just calibrated mine last night and it works fantastic !!!! Face frames are a so much easier. Based on the clarification of by Paul of equidistance to the center concept. I now deliberately set the stops a little loose on the width making sure to mark the mating faces prior to machining the domino and it comes out perfect every time !!!! Rick this is an awesome product increases the speed and takes out any guessing the only thing you have to do is focus on the registration surfaces and walla everything lines up great. Just have to be carful to make sure you have the work pieces up off the table to allow clearance for the SCG-10 thats clamped to the Domino bottom surface. Terry 
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